[voyagergab]

Originally Posted by M2Rob

Yes, the clown nose. All my BMW's have had it, but other than blinking security, not sure what it does. Or if it is removable.

My E90 and F10 had much flatter clown nose.
G01 has a completely new design without a clown nose.

I'm not sure if there is some sensor there besides the blinking LED.

In the older days the protruding clown nose was used to manually dim the rear view mirror.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

It is the alarm blinker. If you have a system then it blinks. If you don't then it is a clown nose......

[HandmadeShifts]

I didn't know I had an alarm system until it went off jacking up my car. And yes, I have the red blinking light. 2018 LCI with exec.

[M2Rob]

I have the exact same JDM. So, the question is, can you remove the clown nose? And just leave the LED in there? Seems like a big dumb peice for just an LED.

[ORIGIN M.]

Originally Posted by M2Rob

I have the exact same JDM. So, the question is, can you remove the clown nose? And just leave the LED in there? Seems like a big dumb peice for just an LED.

With simple coding you can do almost anything...

[ZPrime]

Originally Posted by Damage Inc

Why use the mirror mount? I just used the suction cups included w my V1. Mounted right under the headliner. Out of sight, and no extra cost. Plus I'm not advertising that I have a radar. Not doggin in the blendmount, just stating an option.

On a lot of cars, that dotted area next to the mirror (the dots are called "frit") is not smooth. The frit is exposed on the interior of the glass, so it makes it really hard to get a seal with a suction cup because the frit itself helps to lift the cup away from the glass a little bit.

I ordered a blendmount because I was expecting not to be able to use this area due to the frit. Imagine my surprise to find that the frit is laminated into the middle of the glass, so that section is smooth! My Audi wasn't like that.

So yeah, I have my V1 up above the mirror too, and I like it up there - out of the way but still visible enough. Frit isn't good for LIDAR detection, but I have LIDAR turned off on my V1 anyway.

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by ZPrime

On a lot of cars, that dotted area next to the mirror (the dots are called "frit") is not smooth. The frit is exposed on the interior of the glass, so it makes it really hard to get a seal with a suction cup because the frit itself helps to lift the cup away from the glass a little bit.

I ordered a blendmount because I was expecting not to be able to use this area due to the frit. Imagine my surprise to find that the frit is laminated into the middle of the glass, so that section is smooth! My Audi wasn't like that.

So yeah, I have my V1 up above the mirror too, and I like it up there - out of the way but still visible enough. Frit isn't good for LIDAR detection, but I have LIDAR turned off on my V1 anyway.

I'm sure you've posted this in the past ZPrime, but do you have a photo of your install?

I'm planning to buy a Uniden R3 when I get back from vacation, and would like to mount it as discretely as possible. I realise that's pretty much impossible without a custom installation, but mounting close to the headliner is better than under the mirror, if it's possible.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Yes what Nezil said....I have the R3 and would like it up higher. Also with the type of mount that comes with it the unit vibrates up and down a lot when driving then when it is really hot the knuckle slips and lets the unit drop down in the back

[ZPrime]

Nezil I'll take some pics tonight, I don't think I have any especially since I put in the mirrortap. I had it mounted lower on the glass with the V1 coiled cord coming out of the 12V socket by the cupholders and the Bluetooth module sitting down there, but I finally picked up a mirrortap, a 2-way phone plug splitter, and re-did the whole setup.

Now the bluetooth module and the splitter are both concealed in the plastic thing behind the mirror, as well as some extra cable, and the slack cable from my dashcam power and signal cable going back to the rear camera. It's astounding how much shit I was able to cram up in there.

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by ZPrime

Nezil I'll take some pics tonight, I don't think I have any especially since I put in the mirrortap. I had it mounted lower on the glass with the V1 coiled cord coming out of the 12V socket by the cupholders and the Bluetooth module sitting down there, but I finally picked up a mirrortap, a 2-way phone plug splitter, and re-did the whole setup.

Now the bluetooth module and the splitter are both concealed in the plastic thing behind the mirror, as well as some extra cable, and the slack cable from my dashcam power and signal cable going back to the rear camera. It's astounding how much shit I was able to cram up in there.

Looking forward to the photos!

[ZPrime]

It doesn't look like much, because the V1 is just kind of tucked up there, and you don't really see anything else.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

yea when I had the V1 it had the mirror tap and it split off to my Mobius dash cam. Both came on when car started. it had a two plug phone style splitter.

[ZPrime]

Here are pics, from inside and from outside so you can see roughly where the suction cups sit. Thing below the radar is my dashcam (Blackvue).

[Lotus99]

Originally Posted by ZPrime

Here are pics, from inside and from outside so you can see roughly where the suction cups sit. Thing below the radar is my dashcam (Blackvue).

What's your cell phone mount? I've used a ProclipUSA mount in my 335, by the passenger vent, and it was nice and solid. Thinking of what to get now for my M2. The ones that clip onto vents I don't like so much, because when you press the phone screen, they tend to move.

This is the base I used to have:

https://www.proclipusa.com/product/8...p-angled-mount

And then you buy your phone's holder and mount it on.

https://www.proclipusa.com/product/5...o-medium-cases

Though now that I have an iPhone X, it would be nice to buy a solid mount with wireless charging on it...

Any tips?

[ZPrime]

I'm using Proclip's charging mount, attached to a Kuda USA "base" (which is basically leather-wrapped fiberglass that is designed to fit to the side of the radio & hvac controls). I actually added one of their "quick disconnect" pieces in between the base and the mount, so if I change phones later or whatever, I can just swap the mount without having to do any more screwing.

[Lotus99]

Originally Posted by ZPrime

I'm using Proclip's charging mount, attached to a Kuda USA "base" (which is basically leather-wrapped fiberglass that is designed to fit to the side of the radio & hvac controls).

I actually added one of their "quick disconnect" pieces in between the base and the mount, so if I change phones later or whatever, I can just swap the mount without having to do any more screwing.

Nice setup. I like that location better than the Proclip one, as it doesn't cover the passenger vent. And it seems angled towards the driver, whereas Proclip's seems flat now. Looks slick:



As opposed to the Proclip one:



https://www.proclipusa.com/product/8...ter-dash-mount

So I should be able to just screw in the Proclip holder into the Kuda base?
.
.
.
PS Speaking of passenger vents, what is that you got?

[Lotus99]

PS I like this guy's setup even better, if it holds well... Magnetic mounts are pretty solid I find. Only thing is with my iPhone X now, it disrupts its wireless charging if I have the metal plate behind the phone...

[Lotus99]

ZPrime One last question... When you installed the base, you didn't have any issues like this guy with your glovebox door not closing well?

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=576448

[ZPrime]

Originally Posted by Lotus99

PS I like this guy's setup even better, if it holds well... Magnetic mounts are pretty solid I find. Only thing is with my iPhone X now, it disrupts its wireless charging if I have the metal plate behind the phone...

That's an M3 or M4, and I'm not sure if that's a Kuda base or something else. I haven't seen something that mounts to that area on a 2er.

I was using the proclip vent mount thing previously; I had it directly to the right of my right-side vent spot. The black screen you see in my pics is the AWRON gauge. I had just barely enough room for the proclip base to hold to the right of the screen, but I didn't like the placement. I ended up using one of their 15 degree angle wedges to aim the phone at me more, but I still don't like having it up that high. The Kuda base is much better IMO.

You can just use the Proclip screws and drive them straight into the Kuda base (I would advise doing it by hand - the heads are tiny and easy to strip - and maybe use a punch to give yourself starter dots to work with). I used the proclip screws, but I then used a "locking move clip" on the Kuda base. (I have an LCI car so I have Kuda P/N 092795 -- the pre-LCI dashboard uses a different part.)

My only regret so far is that the "locking move clip" is actually kind of weak. The swivel base kind of shakes around in there a little bit. It's not horrible, the mount doesn't seem like it's going to come off or anything, but the base of the mount is definitely not rigid to the Kuda base, because the "move clip" isn't sufficiently serious about its job. If you decide to just screw your mount directly into the Kuda base then you won't have this problem, but I change phones every year or two so being able to swap the phone mount without worrying about trashing the holes in the base of the Kuda is important to me.

If I get sick of it shaking around enough, I may go back and use the AMPS mounting adapter instead, or possibly the heavy-duty "move clip".

When I first bought the Kuda, it was the pre-LCI version and it wasn't going to fit at all. They then came out with an LCI version and I was able to exchange mine. No real fitment issues to speak of, although due to how the LCI comes apart, you have to be careful with placement of the Kuda since you still need to be able to pull the upper vent trim off for servicing down the road. I dicked around with the exact placement and screw locations for quite a while. It didn't help that they forgot one of the screws for my base (I guess when they exchanged with me they had assumed I kept the single old screw from the old base, and then they only sent me one screw while the LCI version of the base "requires" two...) No problems with glovebox fitment at all, but I did fight with the trim around the radio quite a bit (again, may have been due to me using my own wood screw rather than their trim screw, since I only had one). I used the screw they gave me by the glovebox, thinking that it would be marginally more visible, while the one behind the radio/HVAC trim is basically hidden permanently now.

The Kuda "requires no drilling," but it does require screwing self-tapping screws into plastic, in one area that will never be seen by anybody, and the other is marginally visible (the glovebox spot).

[Lotus99]

Originally Posted by ZPrime

That's an M3 or M4, and I'm not sure if that's a Kuda base or something else. I haven't seen something that mounts to that area on a 2er.

I was using the proclip vent mount thing previously; I had it directly to the right of my right-side vent spot. The black screen you see in my pics is the AWRON gauge. I had just barely enough room for the proclip base to hold to the right of the screen, but I didn't like the placement. I ended up using one of their 15 degree angle wedges to aim the phone at me more, but I still don't like having it up that high. The Kuda base is much better IMO.

You can just use the Proclip screws and drive them straight into the Kuda base (I would advise doing it by hand - the heads are tiny and easy to strip - and maybe use a punch to give yourself starter dots to work with). I used the proclip screws, but I then used a "locking move clip" on the Kuda base. (I have an LCI car so I have Kuda P/N 092795 -- the pre-LCI dashboard uses a different part.)

My only regret so far is that the "locking move clip" is actually kind of weak. The swivel base kind of shakes around in there a little bit. It's not horrible, the mount doesn't seem like it's going to come off or anything, but the base of the mount is definitely not rigid to the Kuda base, because the "move clip" isn't sufficiently serious about its job. If you decide to just screw your mount directly into the Kuda base then you won't have this problem, but I change phones every year or two so being able to swap the phone mount without worrying about trashing the holes in the base of the Kuda is important to me.

If I get sick of it shaking around enough, I may go back and use the AMPS mounting adapter instead, or possibly the heavy-duty "move clip".

When I first bought the Kuda, it was the pre-LCI version and it wasn't going to fit at all. They then came out with an LCI version and I was able to exchange mine. No real fitment issues to speak of, although due to how the LCI comes apart, you have to be careful with placement of the Kuda since you still need to be able to pull the upper vent trim off for servicing down the road. I dicked around with the exact placement and screw locations for quite a while. It didn't help that they forgot one of the screws for my base (I guess when they exchanged with me they had assumed I kept the single old screw from the old base, and then they only sent me one screw while the LCI version of the base "requires" two...) No problems with glovebox fitment at all, but I did fight with the trim around the radio quite a bit (again, may have been due to me using my own wood screw rather than their trim screw, since I only had one). I used the screw they gave me by the glovebox, thinking that it would be marginally more visible, while the one behind the radio/HVAC trim is basically hidden permanently now.

The Kuda "requires no drilling," but it does require screwing self-tapping screws into plastic, in one area that will never be seen by anybody, and the other is marginally visible (the glovebox spot).

Wow, what a response!

Sorry for the confusion about that last picture I posted with the magnetic mount on the Kuda base. I don't know what car that is from, it was just to show the idea of using a magnetic mount, instead of a Proclip one, that I'm toying with.

I've found the Magnetic mounts to be pretty secure also. So if I can figure out a way to get a magnetic plate inside my phone case Without interfering with wireless charging, I might seriously consider going this route and using THIS on the Kuda base. Thoughts?

I don't like anything above the dash, so any dash mounts or windshield mounts are out of the question. But I actually liked the height of the Proclip mount, as it was easy to see the phone screen without having to glance down at all. Similar to how easy it is for you to see your AWRON gauge.

Luckily on this car, the Kuda base is just below the vent, so not a lot lower. I take it you can easy see the screen if something shows up or you need to look at it for Google maps, let's say? It seems angled towards you well, even if I was to use a magnetic mount.

I see the LCI Kuda base is more work to install, from the instructions for it. So your warning is basically not to place it too high, so it's possible to get the trim off afterwards, if needed? I had figured they were using some Pre-existing holes, so there wasn't any options as to the placement of it. That's not the case?

Thanks for confirming that the LCI version doesn't cause glovebox fitment issues, like in the post I linked earlier.

[ZPrime]

There are no pre-existing holes for the Kuda base, you create your own with their self-tapping screws. The base itself, the holes are somewhat larger than they need to be, so you have some flexibility in the placement for sure. It just screws into hidden plastic part (behind the HVAC) and a semi-hidden part (next to the glove box).

Phone height is high enough for me. When I'm driving, my phone is running V1Driver.

There is no way to do a magnetic mount without messing up wireless charging. Wireless charging uses a coil in the back of the phone - if you block that with a piece of metal or another magnet, no more charging.

I prefer something that solidly affixes the phone like an actual dock. I also want it to be charging, so a dock is the easier answer. (Magnetic means you have to manually screw around with plugging in the power.)

[Lotus99]

Originally Posted by ZPrime

There are no pre-existing holes for the Kuda base, you create your own with their self-tapping screws. The base itself, the holes are somewhat larger than they need to be, so you have some flexibility in the placement for sure. It just screws into hidden plastic part (behind the HVAC) and a semi-hidden part (next to the glove box).

Phone height is high enough for me. When I'm driving, my phone is running V1Driver.

There is no way to do a magnetic mount without messing up wireless charging. Wireless charging uses a coil in the back of the phone - if you block that with a piece of metal or another magnet, no more charging.

I prefer something that solidly affixes the phone like an actual dock. I also want it to be charging, so a dock is the easier answer. (Magnetic means you have to manually screw around with plugging in the power.)

Wow, hadn't come across that V1 Driver! I'll PM you so I don't derail this thread any more.

I've got good news for you. I'm using a Mous case, which has 3 magnets in it actually, and it still works flawlessly with my wireless charger at work. You can see their placement here: https://www.mous.co/phone-case-accessory-wall-mounts/

But the way their magnets are placed, a regular magnetic mount doesn't hold up the phone I've found. And I don't want to buy theirs (too expensive IMO, plus shipping to Canada), so I'm experimenting with placing different sizes of the metal plates from the magnetic mount inside my case to see if I can still get wireless charging, AND enough metal to hold the phone on a holder. I'm going to be cutting up the plate, as you're right, if it's too big, it interferes for sure.

If I'm successful, I'll be saving myself $50 not having to buy a Proclip holder.

I won't be going wireless charging in the car, as my commutes are pretty short, so the occasional time I need to charge my phone, I'll just plug the cable in.