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      01-10-2021, 08:33 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by F87source View Post
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Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Indeed. I have basically everything I need for a stage 2 turbo upgrade (at least by the end of the month I will.

Waiting on BM3 flex fuel, but do have plans of moving to Ecutek by the end of the year to support some additional mods that are not yet released.
Nice!

Care to share what these mods are?
It's a secret. hopefully will be able to reveal more towards the end of summer.
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      01-10-2021, 09:04 AM   #24
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Interested in the pricing on this.

I’m not sure if they’ve revised the ps2 as they seem to be making pretty decent power. 540whp on e30 and another car making 570whp on e85.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CJcsjFyJ...=1o1y0nay0lm5g
I like the power of the PS2. But the stories about turbo lag bug me.

Additionally, maxing out a turbo like that can't be good for longevity.

Which is largely why I'm looking for something slightly bigger.
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      01-10-2021, 12:25 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
I like the power of the PS2. But the stories about turbo lag bug me.

Additionally, maxing out a turbo like that can't be good for longevity.

Which is largely why I'm looking for something slightly bigger.
To be honest I’m most impressed at the 540whp on e30. I’d like to think that would be a pretty reliable place for the turbo and car.

For sure though a bigger turbo like the pure800 would be happier and also have a high power potential.

Hopefully they don’t price it too high, realistically the Vargas GC is direct competition to this turbo and it’s priced at $3000 I believe.
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      01-10-2021, 04:50 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by SebsM2 View Post
Attached pure's reply about price. I asked them the day it was previewed so I'm sure they may be getting to reveal the price soon. My guess is the price for the lowest tier of the kit will be $3500. You'll probably be able to order a kit that costs upwards of $5500. Just a guess though


I agree with the above user about the turbo. I'm right where you are, or just a bit past you, when it comes to being ready for a bigger turbo. I've spoken to several of the m2 owners making big power and a few tuners now.

If you drive this on the street, you're going to want a faster spool than this turbo will most likely offer. I've been told that with e30 and a stage 2 turbo, you can make mid 500 whp.
That same forum member told me to consider the dinan turbo as it only made about 20 whp less than a ps2.

I've also spoken to one of the forum members who sold his car off in California. He had the AA dev car which had a big boost turbo 3.4 kit. He said it felt overpowered for the chassis and if he were in my shoes he'd want the car in the 500 whp range.

I'm with you on chasing big hp numbers but I think the best option is to grab a good stage 2 turbo and some meaty tires and enjoy our little beasts.

With all that said, installation cost is the same no matter which turbo you go with so you better make sure it's the best one for you!
After working with Halim a bit more and the release of the OTS Stg 2+ E30 map, my Dinan turbo was able to match his PS2 on 93 and his custom tune.

While my car spools faster and hits 500+ wft-lbs at 2500-rpm, the Dinan can't flow enough above 5600-rpm and power drops to just above Stg 2 E30 OTS b/n 6-7k: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1774687

Everyone has different goals and we all have options now that didn't exist a few years ago (my Dinan turbo is a relic of my old Dinan Stage 4 setup), but here's how I see it:

Stock turbo- Similar peak power as the Dinan on Stg 2+ OTS, but much harsher power drop off above 5.5k rpm

Dinan turbo- See comments above. Considering the options today and my power curve, I probably wouldn't spend money to upgrade to this turbo unless I found a cheap used one available.

TTE460- This is probably the turbo I'd go with if I was starting fresh. Stock like spool and can hold power better up top than the Dinan. I came from NA & supercharged cars, so even stock M2 turbo lag was very noticeable to me. Any additional lag from a larger turbo would be unacceptable for me. This one probably gets you ~460-470whp on a dynojet with the new Stg 2+ map and a flat power curve, but I don't know for sure.

PS2/TTE550- If I wanted 500+ whp I'd probably get one of these. Likely the TTE550 b/c my impression is there's less lag b/c of the modified turbofold, and it's capable of a touch more power.

Even larger- I won't pretend to know as much as you guys about these options, but for my M2 I would never go up this high b/c for someone that really pushes their car on track on hot summer days, I don't see anyway you can keep the car cool enough to be reliable with this much power. We don't have air to water intercooling and our cars are heavy--the trickle down effect of having to upgrade suspension, braking, cooling, etc, b/c of this much power would be enormous, and you'd end up just having to make a non-daily driving race car. For highway pulls, I'm sure it's a blast, tho!
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      01-11-2021, 01:08 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZM2 View Post
After working with Halim a bit more and the release of the OTS Stg 2+ E30 map, my Dinan turbo was able to match his PS2 on 93 and his custom tune.

While my car spools faster and hits 500+ wft-lbs at 2500-rpm, the Dinan can't flow enough above 5600-rpm and power drops to just above Stg 2 E30 OTS b/n 6-7k: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1774687

Everyone has different goals and we all have options now that didn't exist a few years ago (my Dinan turbo is a relic of my old Dinan Stage 4 setup), but here's how I see it:

Stock turbo- Similar peak power as the Dinan on Stg 2+ OTS, but much harsher power drop off above 5.5k rpm

Dinan turbo- See comments above. Considering the options today and my power curve, I probably wouldn't spend money to upgrade to this turbo unless I found a cheap used one available.

TTE460- This is probably the turbo I'd go with if I was starting fresh. Stock like spool and can hold power better up top than the Dinan. I came from NA & supercharged cars, so even stock M2 turbo lag was very noticeable to me. Any additional lag from a larger turbo would be unacceptable for me. This one probably gets you ~460-470whp on a dynojet with the new Stg 2+ map and a flat power curve, but I don't know for sure.

PS2/TTE550- If I wanted 500+ whp I'd probably get one of these. Likely the TTE550 b/c my impression is there's less lag b/c of the modified turbofold, and it's capable of a touch more power.

Even larger- I won't pretend to know as much as you guys about these options, but for my M2 I would never go up this high b/c for someone that really pushes their car on track on hot summer days, I don't see anyway you can keep the car cool enough to be reliable with this much power. We don't have air to water intercooling and our cars are heavy--the trickle down effect of having to upgrade suspension, braking, cooling, etc, b/c of this much power would be enormous, and you'd end up just having to make a non-daily driving race car. For highway pulls, I'm sure it's a blast, tho!
How much power are you pushing when you run on the track? Any problems with cooling and such? Also, what are you using for octane?

I've been looking at upgrading my radiator and oil cooler because I'd like to eventually move up to a bigger turbo over stock, but afraid I'll run into cooling issues on track. Aiming for around 425-450 WHP on 91 with water/meth, which I think should be possible.
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      01-11-2021, 08:28 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by eeyang92 View Post
How much power are you pushing when you run on the track? Any problems with cooling and such? Also, what are you using for octane?

I've been looking at upgrading my radiator and oil cooler because I'd like to eventually move up to a bigger turbo over stock, but afraid I'll run into cooling issues on track. Aiming for around 425-450 WHP on 91 with water/meth, which I think should be possible.
I haven't updated this thread in a while b/c I didn't get on track last year with COVID shut downs, a new house, and whatnot, but the short story is I have all the bolt on cooling mods and I was still having cooling issues in the summer with Stg 2 E30 power: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1525790

The great thing is ethanol will keep power levels up when IATs >100F, but my IATs were still hitting 150-160F in the summer with the Evo2 Comp. So, I changed to the Evo3 with the thought that lower IATs and lower air temps flowing across the radiator will keep the engine cooler: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1727351

My IATs now max out at 25-28F above ambient when pushing the car extremely hard in the summer with numerous back to back 3-4-5 pulls on a Stg 2+ E30 beta map with hard braking events in between and the engine is staying cooler, whereas my Evo2 would hit 60F above ambient on the OTS Stg 2 E30 map and the engine would get hot while doing the same tests.

Your plan for WMI will certainly help a ton while on track, I didn't go that route (yet) bc I didn't want to add another level of complexity while I was trying a larger FMIC and working on the Stg 2+ maps, and I'd have to carry in 10-gal of 50/50 for an open track day. And, you'll need a really good failsafe in place if you're going to use it for power on track and not just cooling.

The sessions I'm describing when trying to keep the car cool are ambient >95F, open track, burning a full tank of gas (~45min), very sticky tires, AP Racing hard braking, and no cool down laps, so pretty extreme.

Last edited by ZM2; 01-11-2021 at 05:44 PM..
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      01-11-2021, 06:50 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ZM2 View Post
I haven't updated this thread in a while b/c I didn't get on track last year with COVID shut downs, a new house, and whatnot, but the short story is I have all the bolt on cooling mods and I was still having cooling issues in the summer with Stg 2 E30 power: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1525790

The great thing is ethanol will keep power levels up when IATs >100F, but my IATs were still hitting 150-160F in the summer with the Evo2 Comp. So, I changed to the Evo3 with the thought that lower IATs and lower air temps flowing across the radiator will keep the engine cooler: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1727351

My IATs now max out at 25-28F above ambient when pushing the car extremely hard in the summer with numerous back to back 3-4-5 pulls on a Stg 2+ E30 beta map with hard braking events in between and the engine is staying cooler, whereas my Evo2 would hit 60F above ambient on the OTS Stg 2 E30 map and the engine would get hot while doing the same tests.

Your plan for WMI will certainly help a ton while on track, I didn't go that route (yet) bc I didn't want to add another level of complexity while I was trying a larger FMIC and working on the Stg 2+ maps, and I'd have to carry in 10-gal of 50/50 for an open track day. And, you'll need a really good failsafe in place if you're going to use it for power on track and not just cooling.

The sessions I'm describing when trying to keep the car cool are ambient >95F, open track, burning a full tank of gas (~45min), very sticky tires, AP Racing hard braking, and no cool down laps, so pretty extreme.
Thanks for the details, that was extremely helpful! The evo 3 sounds like a beast of an intercooler, will definitely look into that in the future - I'm currently running VRSF 5" HD, which pretty much eliminated heat soak on stock power, but I'm fairly certain I'll need to change that out if I go for more power.

True about the failsafe - although I figured the WMI controller already had some soft of "hard" failsafe (basically limp mode) built in?

I pretty much track the same way, although my skill level is way below yours, so my requirements aren't as extreme

Would you happen to know how large of a meth tank would I need to run to complete a 20 min session? I assume that 10 gal number was to last a whole day? I figure lugging in 10 gals of mix is still way cheaper than a tank of race gas!
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      01-11-2021, 07:23 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eeyang92 View Post
Thanks for the details, that was extremely helpful! The evo 3 sounds like a beast of an intercooler, will definitely look into that in the future - I'm currently running VRSF 5" HD, which pretty much eliminated heat soak on stock power, but I'm fairly certain I'll need to change that out if I go for more power.

True about the failsafe - although I figured the WMI controller already had some soft of "hard" failsafe (basically limp mode) built in?

I pretty much track the same way, although my skill level is way below yours, so my requirements aren't as extreme

Would you happen to know how large of a meth tank would I need to run to complete a 20 min session? I assume that 10 gal number was to last a whole day? I figure lugging in 10 gals of mix is still way cheaper than a tank of race gas!
Well, I'm not the right person to ask about how to do the WMI failsafe good enough if you're using it for both power and cooling on track. Some other threads & guys would have to expound on that.

If it were me, I would probably save the map that uses WMI for power & cooling for the street, and use WMI purely for cooling on track (and not tune for it). Using limp mode as a failsafe can be a bad idea on track b/c a sudden drop in speed with someone behind you could end up being a bad day for someone very quickly. At least when IATs and the engine get warm on track, timing & power is pulled gradually so that it's easier to pick up on and manage without surprising anyone/yourself with a sudden mechanical issue.

As for how much, when I did my math I estimated 1-gal of 50/50 every 30-min for my type of running, so that's how I get 10-gal for an open track day. If you're doing a typical HPDE with 20min sessions and 3-3.5-hr of running a day, you can probably get by with 5-gal. So, if you're keeping some mix in the paddock, you don't need very large of tank--even the windshield wiper reservoir is large enough for a couple sessions.

Last edited by ZM2; 01-11-2021 at 07:31 PM..
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      01-12-2021, 11:05 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZM2 View Post
Well, I'm not the right person to ask about how to do the WMI failsafe good enough if you're using it for both power and cooling on track. Some other threads & guys would have to expound on that.

If it were me, I would probably save the map that uses WMI for power & cooling for the street, and use WMI purely for cooling on track (and not tune for it). Using limp mode as a failsafe can be a bad idea on track b/c a sudden drop in speed with someone behind you could end up being a bad day for someone very quickly. At least when IATs and the engine get warm on track, timing & power is pulled gradually so that it's easier to pick up on and manage without surprising anyone/yourself with a sudden mechanical issue.

As for how much, when I did my math I estimated 1-gal of 50/50 every 30-min for my type of running, so that's how I get 10-gal for an open track day. If you're doing a typical HPDE with 20min sessions and 3-3.5-hr of running a day, you can probably get by with 5-gal. So, if you're keeping some mix in the paddock, you don't need very large of tank--even the windshield wiper reservoir is large enough for a couple sessions.
Good point on the safety issue, I hadn't thought about that! I'll definitely need to play around with it to see what kind of numbers I can put out with 91 + water.

And thanks for the math!
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      01-15-2021, 10:08 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eeyang92 View Post
Good point on the safety issue, I hadn't thought about that! I'll definitely need to play around with it to see what kind of numbers I can put out with 91 + water.

And thanks for the math!
Check some of the recent Stg 2+ E30 posts in the F30 N55 forum. There’s a guy running 91 & WMI on the Stg 2+ map with some decent success.
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      01-21-2021, 12:39 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
I like the power of the PS2. But the stories about turbo lag bug me.

Additionally, maxing out a turbo like that can't be good for longevity.

Which is largely why I'm looking for something slightly bigger.
The PS2 spools a little bit later than stock, but not by much.

I spoke with Pure on the phone, and they let me know the Pure800 offering for the n55 will spool even later than the PS2 though. So if a quick spool is your goal, then the PS2 may be the better option.

If your goal is High HP, then the new Pure800 should be considered.

My goal right now is quick spool, be able to support the maximum HP to where I don't have to build the engine, work on e30/or other similar gas with just a HPFP stg2 upgrade, and need no more than 21-22psi of boost. I'm assuming 21-22psi won't be running the turbo at its maximum. I have heard the limit is roughly 550whp for the n55 in my 640i before needing to replace rods, pistons, etc. So a PS2, or similar turbo maybe with a larger manifold will be the route I will eventually take to achieve the most power under the curve.
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      01-21-2021, 01:41 PM   #34
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Here's another cast manifold option thats going to be released soon from Ross sport in the UK. I can post more details when they become available....I have a feeling we will see a few cast manifold stage 3 turbos on the market soon.
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      01-21-2021, 02:52 PM   #35
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Here's another cast manifold option thats going to be released soon from Ross sport in the UK. I can post more details when they become available....I have a feeling we will see a few cast manifold stage 3 turbos on the market soon.
Wow nice
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      01-24-2021, 09:25 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZM2 View Post
After working with Halim a bit more and the release of the OTS Stg 2+ E30 map, my Dinan turbo was able to match his PS2 on 93 and his custom tune.

While my car spools faster and hits 500+ wft-lbs at 2500-rpm, the Dinan can't flow enough above 5600-rpm and power drops to just above Stg 2 E30 OTS b/n 6-7k: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1774687

Everyone has different goals and we all have options now that didn't exist a few years ago (my Dinan turbo is a relic of my old Dinan Stage 4 setup), but here's how I see it:

Stock turbo- Similar peak power as the Dinan on Stg 2+ OTS, but much harsher power drop off above 5.5k rpm

Dinan turbo- See comments above. Considering the options today and my power curve, I probably wouldn't spend money to upgrade to this turbo unless I found a cheap used one available.

TTE460- This is probably the turbo I'd go with if I was starting fresh. Stock like spool and can hold power better up top than the Dinan. I came from NA & supercharged cars, so even stock M2 turbo lag was very noticeable to me. Any additional lag from a larger turbo would be unacceptable for me. This one probably gets you ~460-470whp on a dynojet with the new Stg 2+ map and a flat power curve, but I don't know for sure.

PS2/TTE550- If I wanted 500+ whp I'd probably get one of these. Likely the TTE550 b/c my impression is there's less lag b/c of the modified turbofold, and it's capable of a touch more power.

Even larger- I won't pretend to know as much as you guys about these options, but for my M2 I would never go up this high b/c for someone that really pushes their car on track on hot summer days, I don't see anyway you can keep the car cool enough to be reliable with this much power. We don't have air to water intercooling and our cars are heavy--the trickle down effect of having to upgrade suspension, braking, cooling, etc, b/c of this much power would be enormous, and you'd end up just having to make a non-daily driving race car. For highway pulls, I'm sure it's a blast, tho!
If you’re tracking you’re actually much better off with a EFR turbo. Hybrid turbos are almost always over spun or have lots of heat given the small turbine housing, transient response is also arguably better on a true BB turbo. Yes boost threshold is higher, but who cares on track where you’ll always be above 3500rpm. FYI even the 600whp SAE capable EFR7670 can make 500ft lb by 3000
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      01-24-2021, 09:45 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by cookiesowns View Post
If you’re tracking you’re actually much better off with a EFR turbo. Hybrid turbos are almost always over spun or have lots of heat given the small turbine housing, transient response is also arguably better on a true BB turbo. Yes boost threshold is higher, but who cares on track where you’ll always be above 3500rpm. FYI even the 600whp SAE capable EFR7670 can make 500ft lb by 3000
I still doubt anyone that is really pushing a year round daily driving N55 with 500+ whp can keep it cool enough on track in the summer, regardless of turbo setup.

But, if someone can pull it off, would love to see it!
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      01-24-2021, 10:33 PM   #38
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I still doubt anyone that is really pushing a year round daily driving N55 with 500+ whp can keep it cool enough on track in the summer, regardless of turbo setup.

But, if someone can pull it off, would love to see it!
Well tyspeeds 505whp car had no issues, but by that point it's not a street car anymore. So just like you said, by the time you can cool 500whp it's not really dailyable anymore.
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      01-27-2021, 09:57 AM   #39
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Here's another cast manifold option thats going to be released soon from Ross sport in the UK. I can post more details when they become available....I have a feeling we will see a few cast manifold stage 3 turbos on the market soon.
The turbo in the picture is mine and will be fitted and mapped soon
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      01-27-2021, 10:25 AM   #40
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The turbo in the picture is mine and will be fitted and mapped soon
Nice! Do you have anymore info you could share? Spec on your car and what you’re hoping to see power wise?
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      01-27-2021, 11:57 AM   #41
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Nice! Do you have anymore info you could share? Spec on your car and what you’re hoping to see power wise?
Current form the car has a fully built engine.
Crank hub fix
Mpe exhaust
Wagner dp
Wagner evo 3 intercooler
Pipercross v1 intake
Pure inlet
Csf radiator, oil/dct cooler
Turbosmart diverter valve
Aem meth kit
Xdi35
Tte550
3.5 bar tmap
Uprated plugs
Custom ecutek mapping with connect

Looking for 600hp with out to much bother

Parts I have avaliable if needs

Stage 2 lpfp
Dodson clutch pack.

If the xdi35 needs upgrading I will probably go with nostrum. Which I have been looking at with Ross sport since last summer.
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      01-27-2021, 12:25 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by boldy1 View Post
Current form the car has a fully built engine.
Crank hub fix
Mpe exhaust
Wagner dp
Wagner evo 3 intercooler
Pipercross v1 intake
Pure inlet
Csf radiator, oil/dct cooler
Turbosmart diverter valve
Aem meth kit
Xdi35
Tte550
3.5 bar tmap
Uprated plugs
Custom ecutek mapping with connect

Looking for 600hp with out to much bother

Parts I have avaliable if needs

Stage 2 lpfp
Dodson clutch pack.

If the xdi35 needs upgrading I will probably go with nostrum. Which I have been looking at with Ross sport since last summer.
Really solid spec with all bases covered. 600bhp should be a breeze on that turbo, it’s capable of 800+. Suppose it will depend how much meth you are using for fuelling purposes if the XDI-35 will be enough. The turbo seems to be really well priced as well, Ross stated around £3000.

Did you get any numbers on the tte550?
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      01-27-2021, 12:55 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daleb View Post
Really solid spec with all bases covered. 600bhp should be a breeze on that turbo, it’s capable of 800+. Suppose it will depend how much meth you are using for fuelling purposes if the XDI-35 will be enough. The turbo seems to be really well priced as well, Ross stated around £3000.

Did you get any numbers on the tte550?
520 on the tte without meth and could push a bit more the 550 will be for sale now its a new unit probably 200 miles on it
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      01-27-2021, 02:28 PM   #44
Daleb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boldy1 View Post
520 on the tte without meth and could push a bit more the 550 will be for sale now its a new unit probably 200 miles on it
Good power for 99 only. Sure you could see mid/high 500s with more octane on that turbo.

Keep us updated on your results with the new turbo 👍🏼
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