[MooMooM2]

thanks for being the guinea pig.

I knew the tips were not gonna be able to sit flush even though valvetronic claimed they could and that on their video the customer wanted them like this. Why not just be upfront about it.

Good to know that it sounds awesome, hopefully they can fix the tips because welding is just not it after spending $3200 on a system. Hope the shorter tips work good, I am not super into the m performance tips but maybe there is something else out there.

[MSH_]

Originally Posted by MooMooM2

I knew the tips were not gonna be able to sit flush even though valvetronic claimed they could and that on their video the customer wanted them like this. Why not just be upfront about it. .

No matter how good it sounds this would be a show stopper for me personally. Drives me crazy when tips aren't flush and following lines of the diffuser.

[(K)]

Originally Posted by drp087

Alright so I got the exhaust to test out, installed couple days ago and here are the findings:

EXHAUST TIPS. As we all worried, they do stick out too far about 2". The driver's side pipe has about 3/4" that you can cut off for better fitment, and the passenger's side has just a bit more room, but even then the drivers side will stick out another 1 1/4".

I've contacted Valvetronic about this and their best advised solution is to cut the end and weld to my liking, but I'd prefer not to go this route just because since theres no turning back.

My other solution was to get shorter tips. The only tips I found that could match are these bimmerplug tips and think they will just be short enough to sit flush. Yes, it was frustrating having to find remedies for something that should be given, and have to pay extra for more parts or labor. My guess is that they are using the same rear muffler from the F80- just different piping for the F87, so we are left with an extra 2 inches.

INSTALL. Below is pic of AA's EL vs Valvetronic's just for reference. Other things to note is that one of the bolts that connect the midpipe to the downpipe is EXTREMELY hard to get to. Sockets will barely fit between the two pipes at the beginning of the midpipe. I had to remove of the bottom covers and go from the side/top, which was still difficult to do since theres such a tight angle. Also, there is only one valve actuator on the passenger side thats used- you need an extension cable that is supposed to come with the kit. I did not get this so I used my Remus extension for now- I've contacted them to get it separately. The driver's side is just ziptied to one of the frames. Other than that, rest was pretty simple, relatively easy exhaust fitment.

SOUND. After the disappointment with the tips being too long, I honestly wanted it to sound bad so I can just sell it off and go back to my AA/Remus. But I was wrong.

Short Version- the videos Valvetronic posted is pretty accurate. It has much more character in terms of low-RPM rumble, and high-RPM scream. It is VERY competitive to my AA/Remus setup.

Long Version- so this is comparing it to my AA EL Mid (Resonated) + Remus Race Setup.

Valves Closed/Open- Valvetronics has a MUCH bigger difference between the two modes, and as a result, Coldstart is a little quieter than the Remus. In normal driving in Efficient, it is slightly deeper down low. On the other hand, since with Valves open it does not have the resonators from my AA EL's, it has a little more rasp and I think it gets louder at higher RPM's.

Drone- to my surprise there was no drone on the highway. I only have one rattle that I can probably get out with adjusting the pipes a little.

Character. The Valvetronic is deeper down low, and at 5K RPMs+ it just gets loud. The AA/Remus had less sounds down low, but at 4K+ it just sang. I was hoping the Valvetronic kept both characters, but unfortunately it's lost a little bit of the wail close to redline.

That all being said, I am going to continue testing this out a little longer, either way I will have one exhaust setup for sale!

I'm wondering if you're able retain most of the character if you were to mix and match your previous setup with the Valvetronic system. Valvetronic's mid pipe with the Remus back box, for example.

[Valvetronic Designs]

Good afternoon everyone,
We are so happy to see such excitement and enthusiasm for this new sound development for the M2C! We are jumping back in this thread to articulate how to get the tips to fit flush to the diffuser.

As everyones tip fitment preference is slightly difference we aim this response at those who want the tips to be nice and flush with a staggered setup. Here is how you do it:

This work can be preformed by you or your installer. We always recommend processional installation but it can be done in your garage pretty easily as well

On both of the outlets before attaching the y pipes. Remove 1 1/2 inches of material. This removal will allow the Y pipe to slip on deeper and thus bringing the tips back in towards the diffuser once mounted. Please review the pictures to visualize.

For those who have already done this modification and gotten their tips perfect, they have also found that 1 1/2 inches to be perfect. This still allows lots of material for the Y pipe to clamp on. There is no need to weld.

*Doing this will not void the warranty on the system. Do this modification with confidence*

Future units will not have this issue. Thank you everyone for your support. Please reach out if you have any further questions. We are here to help!

[drp087]

I've thought about the same, but i think the deeper low RPM comes from the single exit after the midpipe. In comparison the Remus keeps it in two pipes which results in the high RPM character.

I imagine it sits in between the AA single mid with deep low end and AA EL.

Just looking at the backbox I think the Valvetronic does a better job muffling the sound vs the Remus. With valves closed, the Valvetronic is 20% quieter than Remus Race. This alone is a great plus for me as I had issues with Coldstarts on the Remus Race, but I am trying to get the tip length issue sorted out with Valvetronic right now.

At this point the only other option I see for my tastes is the AA EL + Remus Sport + AA HFC's. IF only I had 6K laying around..

[drp087]

As for the Valvetronic Instructions above, I have been talking with Valvetronic with disagreements on how much you can actually cut off while retaining all clamp function. Either I was completely off on my methods or Valvetronic is wrong, but I will test it out again and report back.

[MooMooM2]

drp087 do let us know

and Valvetronic Designs I do appreciate that yall are taking a look at this and fixing it for future iterations

[drp087]

Alright so I didn't want to have anyone with any misinformation so got to this right away. To sum up, the conclusion is Valvetronics and I were both "right" but I think we just had different perspectives. I am posting many photos to clear up everything so you might have to go back and forth.

Background: My claim was that you can only cut .75" from the (Drivers) Right-angle pipe in order to maintain full clamp function, as the pipe gets narrower after the .75" mark. If you cut more, you'd have a good amount of pipe just "floating". Valvetronic was saying you can cut 1.5" and "This still allows lots of material for the Y pipe to clamp on"

Please see pics below if you have not yet scrolled down, and come back.

My perspective: I need the entire clamp length of the Y-pipe overlapping the Right angle pipe for the reasons:
1. It just looks wrong to have the piece "floating"
2. Once I start clamping it down, the Y-pipe will get narrower than 3" at the end, making it a pain to remove if I ever need to
3. Possibly have more movement
4. The tips I found to be compatible would not fit if I cut this much
5. At the time Valvetronics did not make the official "instructions" to cut 1.5" so I did not want to risk any issues with warranty, especially since they told me there are no spare parts available for sale.

That all being said, even while knowing I will have this gap between the pipes, since Valvetronics gave the go-ahead with cutting 1.5" while keeping warranty, I went ahead and cut it off. You can see Final pictures that the tips sit MUCH better, but the pipe gap from Right-angle Pipe- Y-pipe is questionable. If this was in the middle of the exhaust I definitely would not have done this, but since it is just the end of the exhaust, perhaps it is acceptable. The tips seem to sit pretty tight at the moment, but not sure if there any other issues that my arise.
My guess is that Valvetronic does not think there will be any,

Notes:
1. You absolutely cannot go beyond 1.5". The Passenger Side has the Valve mount at this point.
2. I had to readjust the angle of the back box itself, which pulled the Drivers Side more forward to even out the Left-Right Balance
3. My personal preference would be to push in another .25", but current is decent for now.

[MooMooM2]

thank you drp087 this is excellent man, pictures that actually show everything and the maximum amount of flush they can sit now. Seems like its not perfect but it looks pretty good. I don't think it will be a problem with the amount that it clamps on but definitely would be something I would check periodically because there is little no room for the pipe to go, if it comes undone a bit there goes a tip.

I dunno this does not feel optimal to me but I also do appreciate that valvetronic is trying to fix it instead of calling it good and I do hope that for future iterations of the product they fix it right from production, maybe there is a way to fabricate it so that people don't have to cut anything at all and maintain more clamp but maybe they are already looking into that with the fabricator, hopefully.

It sounds really good.

Again thanks for taking the plunge and showing your experience, I think this will help a lot of people out

[blako4]

Do you guys have an ETA on when future units will have this remedied? I'm very interested, especially with Black Friday deals coming soon, but it's hard to justify a $3k purchase and still needing to do custom work to get the fit right. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Valvetronic Designs

Good afternoon everyone,
We are so happy to see such excitement and enthusiasm for this new sound development for the M2C! We are jumping back in this thread to articulate how to get the tips to fit flush to the diffuser.

As everyones tip fitment preference is slightly difference we aim this response at those who want the tips to be nice and flush with a staggered setup. Here is how you do it:

This work can be preformed by you or your installer. We always recommend processional installation but it can be done in your garage pretty easily as well

On both of the outlets before attaching the y pipes. Remove 1 1/2 inches of material. This removal will allow the Y pipe to slip on deeper and thus bringing the tips back in towards the diffuser once mounted. Please review the pictures to visualize.

For those who have already done this modification and gotten their tips perfect, they have also found that 1 1/2 inches to be perfect. This still allows lots of material for the Y pipe to clamp on. There is no need to weld.

*Doing this will not void the warranty on the system. Do this modification with confidence*

Future units will not have this issue. Thank you everyone for your support. Please reach out if you have any further questions. We are here to help!

[drp087]

From what they told me last week it did not seem like there will be any revisions.
I think a proper fix is either have shorter tips so you don't need cutting, or even revise the Right angle pipe to a 3" so there isnt that gap. BUT I'm guessing they still have the first batches, and not sure if they are willing to revise for future batches.

I guess at least pre-cutting the 1.5" before shipping is reasonable.

IF not, I dont think your installer will charge any more, or if you are DIYing, I got a $80 Milwaukee Hackzall + $15 Blade.

[mashimarho]

Nice!

[Valvetronic Designs]

Hey everyone!
Again we thank you for your excitement in this new system. Lets dive into this tip issue more deeply. Ultimately, yes there is a small amount of cutting that needs to be done to the tips to get them to be tight to the diffuser. We understand that it is not ideal because some folks do not have access to a saw to remove the extra material.

All the units in the next batch will not have this issue as we have revised the tip length. the reason this came about was because the development work was done on a car that had a very aggressive carbon diffuser.

Fortunately for all those interested in the system the research has already been done and communicated by drp087! For those who are looking to purchase the system it is now extremely clear what needs to be done and an extra few minutes on the install to remove the excess material to get the tips to your desired length.

Why aren't we making the modifications ourselves you ask? At this time we are in the process of moving our facility to a new state of the art facility about 50 miles away. This process is rather daunting and our fabrication equipment is scattered between the different locations. We would love to be able to send these out after the modifications but it will be into the new year before we are able to do so.

These items are part of the group buy and are soon going to be on sale for Black Friday. If you want to take advantage of the sale and get what is quite possibly the best sounding exhaust setup for the M2C at an incredible deal, that time is now. If you would rather wait until the next production run, we also understand. But is it worth the extra few minutes in labor to get the best sounding setup immediately rather than waiting? We think so!

Please reach out to us directly if you have any other questions. We are here to help!

[M3R1]

I would like to share some constructive criticism of this system. As a person that has a touch of OCD when it comes to tips, fitment and sound, there might be a little too much compromise at present. Of course the tip length is an issue, however it seems there is a work around. I would also spin the clamps 180 degrees so they are not hanging so low. However, it does appear that the angle of the tips is a problem as well. Also the piping geometry going to the back box needs to be better routed (see below). Having the system completely tucked is another criteria for me. I would imagine the diameter is too large to conceal? Most would not even notice, but I can't unsee these kinds of things.

[drp087]

I agreed on the angle of the tips, so got that adjusted the second time around. The left and right sides have a slight discrepancy (to match the heights of the tips) but still but much less than before and are pretty parallel to the ground now.
As for tucking in the exhaust pipe as long as it doesn't droop down lower than other parts of the car it's ok in my standards, and as you said the pipe diameter is too thick to go anywhere else.

[Iparkharder]

Here's another video Valvetronic did with my car and the Stainless exhaust. The car had a super aggressive tone with the free flow cats but I think I like the overall sound better with the stock downpipes. I was going to get the remus race and AA El midpipe but I am glad I waited for this.

Now that I have the titanium version of this exhaust my Stainless steel valvetronic exhaust is for sale. Valvetronic modified it (see their pictures in this thread) to make the tip not stick out as far. The biggest difference in sound between the 2 materials is the S/S exhaust has a deeper tone than the titanium.

[Iparkharder]

Here are the titanium exhaust videos for those interested is the sound.

With stock downpipes

With high flow downpipes

[mike@x-ph.com]

Thank you for sharing

[(K)]

Originally Posted by Iparkharder

Here are the titanium exhaust videos for those interested is the sound.

With stock downpipes

Tell me more about that Lambo swapped truck at 5:45.

[drp087]

Just another long term update on my thoughts for the Valvetronic after about a month.

1. Over time the exhaust has become a little louder than at first (20%?). At first, with the valves closed, Coldstart and immediate takeoff was much more manageable than the Remus, but now it seems to have become very similar, if not louder. During city driving, Valves open does have more throatier sound down low, but also results in some unpleasant sounds up top. One of my main reasons on keeping the Valvetronic was since it sounded more refined, but now it has become very similar. I really think a resonator somewhere will clean up the sounds.

2. Visuals- I did get a CF diffuser, and looks MUCH more in line with the tips- I think this is a must for this exhaust. Also, as another member pointed out earlier, there are slight differences in angles from left and right. As this system has the single midpipe that goes to the right side, it is very secure on the right, but the left is hanging all by just a rubber mount, making it sag just a bit more. You need to accommodate it by raising the tip angle up. Not really noticeable when the car is on the ground, but just something to note.

That all being said, this is really making me think the Remus Sport with HFC IS the ultimate setup for a DD.... time for round 4?? lol

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by drp087

That all being said, this is really making me think the Remus Sport with HFC IS the ultimate setup for a DD.... time for round 4?? lol

Im sorry to hear that Valvetronic did not do it for you, at this point you should have your own thread documenting the different setups you tried and the difference between them

[drp087]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Im sorry to hear that Valvetronic did not do it for you, at this point you should have your own thread documenting the different setups you tried and the difference between them

lol after three setups I thought I would have it perfect, but I guess you can't have it do EVERYTHING. Im gonna see for a few more days, take it to the canyons to get a more visceral experience, but I may soon be in touch!