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      04-22-2021, 01:21 AM   #45
akkando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrooooom View Post
I just tried the data logging function. What should I be noting on it. so many datas. I've got some knocking 0.2 & 0.4 I would assume nothing to worry about? City driving.

I went straight to Stage-1 93
internal 114F

All stock. BM3 only.

BTW, laptop needed internet access during the drive out.... all the time or can I log Offline?
It's going to likely have some knock just driving normally even on the stock tune. You'll want to scrutinize wide open throttle situations for knock, timing being retarded, high IAT ( over 100-110, which is going to happen on stock intercooler), high pressure fuel pump not making target, boost not making target.
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      04-22-2021, 03:23 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akkando View Post
It's going to likely have some knock just driving normally even on the stock tune. You'll want to scrutinize wide open throttle situations for knock, timing being retarded, high IAT ( over 100-110, which is going to happen on stock intercooler), high pressure fuel pump not making target, boost not making target.
six (per cylinder) datas for timing. How do I recognize what is considered retarded and normal. Is it thru the Ignition Timing [deg] or the (RAM) Ignition Timing Corr.?

Hmmm no way to upload an image here?
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      04-22-2021, 10:42 AM   #47
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A good read on data logging....

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732327
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      04-23-2021, 09:05 PM   #48
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91F ambient temp
100 octane fuel (supposedly)
All stock

Is it ok to be running the Stage 1 93? Or should I just stay with the more conservative 91 for now until I start to get the parts?

Opinion pls.
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      04-23-2021, 10:25 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrooooom View Post
91F ambient temp
100 octane fuel (supposedly)
All stock

Is it ok to be running the Stage 1 93? Or should I just stay with the more conservative 91 for now until I start to get the parts?

Opinion pls.
Bro noone can give you an “opinion” if you dont attach a datalog. 4th gear, dsc off, full throttle 2500 to redline. Do a few pulls then post them here by going into bm3 datalogs and on the right hand side youll see a few options including “copy link”. Click on that and then paste onto your post here so people can look at them. But make sure you do not erase the datalog or the link will be dead.
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      04-23-2021, 11:19 PM   #50
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Sigh. So it’s a weekend here so decided to take the car out. Probably 40% throttle and I hear a thug sound from under the car and I thought it was just something that got thrown out. About 10s later when I noticed the check engine light and the notice on the screen.

Drive moderately. Maximum drivetrain output not available. Consult service center.

Plug’d BM3 to chk the error.

121001 boost pressure sensor, electric: short circuit to positive.

120408 charge pressure control, shutdown: pressure build-locked

108A01 charge air temperature sensor, electrical: short circuit to positive

The car is all stock. I didn't blow the charge pipe or anything did I?

Last edited by vrooooom; 04-23-2021 at 11:39 PM..
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      04-24-2021, 12:48 AM   #51
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121001 is your tmap sensor. Check your chargepipe. You likely blew it. Didnt you buy an upgraded charge pipe?
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      04-24-2021, 01:07 AM   #52
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It’s official, the chargepipe. It’s broken at the top portion. Unbelievable how fragile this thing is.

Can’t I still drive this to the shop or now I really need to do the install myself?

I have to look for the clip right?
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      04-24-2021, 01:12 AM   #53
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Lol if you drive it you wont even be able to overtake a jeepney
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      04-24-2021, 01:20 AM   #54
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Yup now I know why there’s a large pan/cover at the bottom.... to catch the bits, clip, and the o-ring. ��

Last edited by vrooooom; 04-24-2021 at 01:42 AM..
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      04-24-2021, 01:23 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dj_Quik View Post
Lol if you drive it you wont even be able to overtake a jeepney


So for anyone that may be just starting to use the BM3 on stock cars no matter your mileage (mine only has 3k kms). The charge pipe will/may self-destruct. Get that upgraded BEFORE using the BM3. DUH! I rolled the dice and lost.

Last edited by vrooooom; 04-24-2021 at 02:06 AM..
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      04-24-2021, 01:30 AM   #56
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I ran bm3 without upgrading the charge pipe for 6 mos. and nothing happened but its really just the luck of the draw. But that being said, it is easy to get parts here anyways so it wasnt a big deal if it blew. Now i upgraded my charge pipe and running 20 psi on stage 2+ maps with no worries
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      04-24-2021, 02:10 AM   #57
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The charge pipe is just one side of the 2 pipes connected to the IC. It's the one going into the cylinder after being cooled. The pressure on this side should be the same as the side where the turbo charger is (adding boost) (passenger side). Why is it that most here only replaces the charge pipe and not both?

Do I NEED to replace also the other side?
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      04-24-2021, 02:15 AM   #58
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Last edited by vrooooom; 04-24-2021 at 02:44 AM..
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      04-24-2021, 02:54 AM   #59
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Found the o-ring and metal clip. That should be it right?
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      04-24-2021, 01:23 PM   #60
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Pressure builds just before the throttle body when you start to go on boost. With the bm3 tune, you basically went from 10 psi to about 16 psi boost pressure. A lot of times, pre throttle pressure can go up to like 25 psi (like mine). But the throttle flap closes to maintain proper pressure in the manifold. So all that pressure is trapped right where your pipe cracked. Thats why you needed to log and you wouldve seen that. You need to check the tmap sensor too coz that may have been damaged as well
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      04-24-2021, 09:44 PM   #61
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Welcome to the club. I blew mine hauling ass last year on hwy 90 by the Mexican border.
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      04-25-2021, 02:26 AM   #62
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The stock boost pipe is rubberised or silicone? Looks bullet proof and no real flow advantage from after market parts.

I really considered paying and having it done when FMIC and CP, turbo inlet and DV went in but just didn't see the value so left it stock.
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      04-25-2021, 08:28 AM   #63
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I actually did a city data log (its the best I could do at the time). That’s how I found out I was hitting 17 psi. It’s my first time out so I really didn’t have a clue what I was looking at. I really didn’t know that the stock was just to 10. Duh! Oh well, lesson learned.
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      04-25-2021, 08:34 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stulio2181 View Post
Welcome to the club. I blew mine hauling ass last year on hwy 90 by the Mexican border.
I wish I could say I was hauling ass. It was a pathetic and very quick less than 3 second run. Then I hear THUG.

How will I know if the TMAP sensor is damaged or not? The plastic casing is intact and still screwed on the part of the CP.

I’m more bummed out that I have to wait a while for the CP. apparently FTP takes 2 weeks to get it out. I will have to air freight it. Time to look for local suppliers.

Last edited by vrooooom; 04-25-2021 at 09:22 AM..
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      05-13-2021, 01:48 AM   #65
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Finally got my FTP CP (SG 71337) ...and installed. Quality is pretty nice. Took 2.5 hrs or so for me with someone assisting especially w/ the removal of the old pipe (pretty easy) and the install of the top part (a little harder to push in). Took the FMIC out including the aluminum pan and the bracket to clear the air filter's top cover. So little room in this engine bay, and I've got small hands.

Does our car come with a jack? I couldn't find one, nor does the manual say anything about its location, if there's one. I don't know where else to look. I'm pretty sure there's no spare tire coz you can't hide that.

Question: Can I run the Stage 1 93 octane now without risk of any pipes blowing again?
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      05-13-2021, 09:50 AM   #66
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How will I know that my install is not leaking?
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