04-21-2021, 01:47 AM | #1 |
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Creaking brakes on the CS
I suspect, due to the big sports brakes. Squeaking brakes in dry weather and when braking at low speed. Not on all wheels. Anyone else?
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04-21-2021, 04:35 AM | #2 |
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04-21-2021, 06:00 AM | #3 |
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Of course. But it is G rated squealing. In the distant past I ran race pads and sounded like a garbage truck pulling up at lights. I wanted to duck it was so embarrassing.
These are just the right amount of annoying. |
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04-21-2021, 06:10 AM | #4 |
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Do a few hard brakes, it seems to work for me. I haven't heard any noise in the last 3-4 times I've been out with the CS. I have the standard brakes.
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04-21-2021, 09:14 AM | #7 |
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I second this, a few things I've tried to help. Brake later (heavier), not safe for idiot drivers who don't pay attention so I only do it when I'm the only car around. Downshift to a stop if possible (brake less). Wash the car more often, eliminating brake dust (drive car around the block after to get rid of rust covering rotors). All SEEM to be helpful so far.
Hope this helps others
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04-21-2021, 10:32 AM | #8 |
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same as everyone else but i've also noticed if you do some hard braking it seems to go away. doesn't need to be crazy just wait a few extra seconds before braking for a red light. Also make sure there's not a moron behind you texting and not paying attention before attempting. ha ha.
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04-21-2021, 01:40 PM | #9 |
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The very mild squeal is nothing compared to track brake pads, and just audible enough to make sure anyone nearby who's a car enthusiast knows that you are properly equipped, LOL
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04-21-2021, 02:12 PM | #11 |
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Sometimes a rough dragging noise (no squeal) of my 2NH brakes (M2C) during the first seconds when softly applying the brakes after long-term parking (several days or weeks), especially if the previous drive was in the rain. But that noise vanishes (back to normal) after braking a couple of times.
Sometimes even a "pop" when putting the car in motion in reverse (the sound of ending the 'kiss' between brake pads and rotors). You feel that the car doesn't move, so you apply the brakes a couple of times, apply a bit more power/force on the throttle followed by a 'pop' release + the car backing out of the long-term parking space. I recall that in the past a forum member inquired how to avoid that 'pop'. It bothered him. The thread is somewhere in the archives. Edit: retrieved the referenced thread: here.
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04-21-2021, 03:16 PM | #12 | |
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04-21-2021, 04:19 PM | #13 | |
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04-21-2021, 04:29 PM | #14 | |
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In DCT cars, if you shut off the engine almost as soon as you come to a stop, it will never happen. The calipers engage when you come to a stop and hold the brake pedal (not sure of the exact time duration; and doesn't have to be on an incline). The 'pop' is just the 'sticky-ness' between the calipers and rotors coming undone when you try to move the car next time. |
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04-21-2021, 04:47 PM | #15 | |
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04-21-2021, 04:50 PM | #16 | |||||
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The cringy part is when you feel that, after firing up the engine, the car does not move despite the gentle tick on the throttle for triggering the 'Low Speed Assistant' (activating 'creep mode' with an M-DCT) in reverse. You give a bit more gas and you know that the 'pop' is about to happen, setting you free (release). As if you're breaking something. But there is no alternative. Quote:
You'll notice folks around you with the facial expression "oops, that ain't sounding right", while that initial dragging noise is nothing to worry about. It rubs off after some regular braking - doesn't take long before things get back to normal and no aggressive braking required. It's more outspoken with the 2NH brakes than with the regular OG M2 and standard M2C brakes. To get you an idea about the size difference between 2NH brakes (standard on M2 CS - optional on M2C) and standard brakes on the OG M2/M2C (all made by Brembo): Quote:
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