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      02-27-2023, 12:40 PM   #1
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Arrow M2 6MT Notchy Shifts

Given this is my first manual trans car, I didn't really know what to look for when starting out a couple of weeks back, but as I've gotten more comfortable with the car, I've started to notice some issues. Shifting gears (specifically, 3-2 and 1-2) feels incredibly notchy. I'm not slam shifting, my foot is down all the way, and I have rev match in Sport+ (90% of my driving). I never WOT in 1st, and I always wait 10-15 minutes for the car to warm up before shifting faster and higher in the rev range. Highly doubt this is only a user error.

Reading a ton of posts certainly didn't help and I convinced myself I was having synchro failure. I had a friend who's experienced with manuals take it for a test drive and he said it was totally fine. Nevertheless, I still want to do something about this since it's a somewhat new car with under 30k miles. I feel like this shouldn't be happening.

I'm interested in changing the transmission fluid with Redline DCTF (1.6L IIRC). I'm also considering doing the diff fluid with Redline 75W140 (not certain how much to use).

Can anyone who's made this change tell me how it affected your car? I looked into the CDV delete + AA SSK but that doesn't really seem like it would fix the root problem here.

edit: realized I put this in the S55 section, sorry.

Last edited by SS687; 02-27-2023 at 11:09 PM.. Reason: wrong forum
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      02-27-2023, 12:53 PM   #2
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Is it possible the previous owner installed a ssk already? Also would you describe the shift action as resistant as opposed to notchy? Some indications of failed synchros would be resistance between gates as well as crunching and grinding.
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      02-27-2023, 01:08 PM   #3
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Your friend is probably right when he says it's totally fine.
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      02-27-2023, 01:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by (K) View Post
Is it possible the previous owner installed a ssk already? Also would you describe the shift action as resistant as opposed to notchy? Some indications of failed synchros would be resistance between gates as well as crunching and grinding.
Everything is completely stock. The shift action has no resistance, the best way I would describe it is 3rd gear feels like there's a click when going from 2-3.

3-2 can sometimes feel 'crunchy' where there's three or four of these clicks but still easy to get into gear and no noise unless I have the windows up and no music playing. There's no grinding sound from the transmission, only a grinding/notchy sensation when moving the shift knob into gear. I've also found that 1-2 is smooth when shifting in the 3-4k range and giving it an extra .5 seconds to let the synchros catch up.
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      02-27-2023, 01:48 PM   #5
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No matter what, 1st to 2nd is never going to feel like butter. Due to gear ratio etc. I noticed the same 2-3rd (clunk) your talking about and I just got used to it over time but there’s nothing wrong with it. If you wanted to smooth that out you could do a ssk but I don’t really think it’s worth it.
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      02-27-2023, 02:11 PM   #6
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A transmission fluid change, even as early as 30K miles, can make a noticeable difference. Read up on this thread for more:
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1982976
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      02-27-2023, 02:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS687 View Post
Everything is completely stock. The shift action has no resistance, the best way I would describe it is 3rd gear feels like there's a click when going from 2-3.

3-2 can sometimes feel 'crunchy' where there's three or four of these clicks but still easy to get into gear and no noise unless I have the windows up and no music playing. There's no grinding sound from the transmission, only a grinding/notchy sensation when moving the shift knob into gear. I've also found that 1-2 is smooth when shifting in the 3-4k range and giving it an extra .5 seconds to let the synchros catch up.
Your 1-2 seems normal, 3-2 and 2-3 sound a little worse than I would describe it. I'm not sure it's outside of the normal range for these transmissions though. They just don't shift like a Miata.
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      02-27-2023, 03:13 PM   #8
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I'm thinking a fluid change at the very least should help. If you want to take it a step further then the Rogue Engineering transmission mounts may help even further.

These transmissions tend to move around a bit so the transmission mounts should help to mitigate some movement. They're cheap enough (about $60) and easy to do.
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      02-27-2023, 05:13 PM   #9
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+1 to the comments above.


Transmission fluid make a major improvement, even at 8,000km doing new stock fluid made a world of a difference. Like it was unreal how much better the car shifted. I have also heard nothing but good things about redline dctf so give it a try!


Transmission mounts will help too, and if your gears aren't grinding you should be ok.


In regards to diff oil only use the stock fluids, these diffs are sensitive to fluids so don't risk it, I would try to get MSP/A but likely you won't be able to find it unless you're in Europe or Australia, so get Saf-xj (NOT saf-xj + fm).
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      02-28-2023, 05:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
+1 to the comments above.


Transmission fluid make a major improvement, even at 8,000km doing new stock fluid made a world of a difference. Like it was unreal how much better the car shifted. I have also heard nothing but good things about redline dctf so give it a try!


Transmission mounts will help too, and if your gears aren't grinding you should be ok.


In regards to diff oil only use the stock fluids, these diffs are sensitive to fluids so don't risk it, I would try to get MSP/A but likely you won't be able to find it unless you're in Europe or Australia, so get Saf-xj (NOT saf-xj + fm).
Really hoping new fluids sort this out. I went for another drive an hour ago and under load 2-3 felt horribly crunchy. I also want to say ~80% of my 3-2 downshufts have that crunchy feeling as well. Definately not good and making me qeustion a lot.
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      02-28-2023, 10:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS687 View Post
Really hoping new fluids sort this out. I went for another drive an hour ago and under load 2-3 felt horribly crunchy. I also want to say ~80% of my 3-2 downshufts have that crunchy feeling as well. Definately not good and making me qeustion a lot.
Try the fluid first but yeah I don't know, mine don't really feel crunchy. Not as smooth or able to be as fast as I would like sometimes, but that's not how I would describe it.
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      02-28-2023, 10:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris719 View Post
Try the fluid first but yeah I don't know, mine don't really feel crunchy. Not as smooth or able to be as fast as I would like sometimes, but that's not how I would describe it.
+1

How I can describe it is:

Knotchy is kind of a resistance, then a clunk/pop into gear.


Crunchy is something entirely different, it feels hard to pull in all the way through the gate and when it finally engages it feels like there is a gritty sand/"potato chip crunch". That is not a good sign because your synchros are getting ground up.
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      03-01-2023, 04:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
+1

How I can describe it is:

Knotchy is kind of a resistance, then a clunk/pop into gear.


Crunchy is something entirely different, it feels hard to pull in all the way through the gate and when it finally engages it feels like there is a gritty sand/"potato chip crunch". That is not a good sign because your synchros are getting ground up.
Super easy to get into any gear. Almost no resistance at all. The best way I can describe it is the following:

In second gear -> revving up ~5k -> moving the shifter forward and left (into neutral position) taking around 1 second -> pushing up into third with literally two fingers on the shifter -> third pops in easily but feels like there's some sand when it finally settles into gear.

3-4 will feel similar as well, almost like there's some sand, and about 2-3 clicks or notches when pushing it into gear.

Something I have noticed is all of my shifts are noticeably smoother on the downshifts (with Sport+ rev match).

Oil arrived today, hoping to do it this weekend.
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      03-01-2023, 04:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS687 View Post
Super easy to get into any gear. Almost no resistance at all. The best way I can describe it is the following:

In second gear -> revving up ~5k -> moving the shifter forward and left (into neutral position) taking around 1 second -> pushing up into third with literally two fingers on the shifter -> third pops in easily but feels like there's some sand when it finally settles into gear.

3-4 will feel similar as well, almost like there's some sand, and about 2-3 clicks or notches when pushing it into gear.

Something I have noticed is all of my shifts are noticeably smoother on the downshifts (with Sport+ rev match).

Oil arrived today, hoping to do it this weekend.
First off I am assuming you mean forward and right to get into neutral from 2nd gear? Because forward and left from 2nd is reverse.

Yeah that doesn't sound very good, that gritty sandy feeling might (but not guaranteed) be mechanical and that is never good. When was the last time you did fluid?

But overall I would say try the fluid first and hopefully it helps alleviate these symptoms.
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      03-01-2023, 04:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
First off I am assuming you mean forward and right to get into neutral from 2nd gear? Because forward and left from 2nd is reverse.

Yeah that doesn't sound very good, that gritty sandy feeling might (but not guaranteed) be mechanical and that is never good. When was the last time you did fluid?

But overall I would say try the fluid first and hopefully it helps alleviate these symptoms.
My apologies, long day. Yes, I meant to the right. The trans fluid appears to have never been changed (only the diff oil according to carfax). I purchased this car around two weeks ago from a dealer. Underwent a PPI from a reputable indy shop and passed with flying colors. I changed the oil/filter + tires + battery within my first week of ownership. Nothing else has been done. At the time, the transmission felt great (either that or I didn't know what to look for since it was my third time driving manual ever).
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      03-01-2023, 05:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS687 View Post
My apologies, long day. Yes, I meant to the right. The trans fluid appears to have never been changed (only the diff oil according to carfax). I purchased this car around two weeks ago from a dealer. Underwent a PPI from a reputable indy shop and passed with flying colors. I changed the oil/filter + tires + battery within my first week of ownership. Nothing else has been done. At the time, the transmission felt great (either that or I didn't know what to look for since it was my third time driving manual ever).
I see, yeah try new fluid first and see if that helps. If not then get some transmission mounts next.

I would also change the coolant as well if I were you, and I would look over the service report to ensure the diff fluid was replaced with the correct type (dealers are known for botching this) and within the last 4-5 years (as recommended by bmw - well bmw recommends 5 years like 80-100k km iirc but I always do it every 4 years or 40,000 - 50,000 km because bmw always over schedules their service intervals), because most of the time these cars will only ever have 1 diff oil flush and that is the one during break in servicing (2,000 km service).
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      03-01-2023, 05:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F87source View Post
I see, yeah try new fluid first and see if that helps. If not then get some transmission mounts next.

I would also change the coolant as well if I were you, and I would look over the service report to ensure the diff fluid was replaced with the correct type (dealers are known for botching this) and within the last 4-5 years (as recommended by bmw - well bmw recommends 5 years like 80-100k km iirc but I always do it every 4 years or 40,000 - 50,000 km because bmw always over schedules their service intervals), because most of the time these cars will only ever have 1 diff oil flush and that is the one during break in servicing (2,000 km service).
Thanks for the info. According to the carfax, the car had a 'rear axel service' at 1k and the diff oil flushed at 27k (at a BMW dealer). I'll definitely post an update here once I change the trans fluid (as I'm confident it's never been changed before).
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      03-01-2023, 05:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS687 View Post
In second gear -> revving up ~5k -> moving the shifter forward and left (into neutral position) taking around 1 second -> pushing up into third with literally two fingers on the shifter
May not be related to the issue but why taking as long as 1 second till the shifter reaches the neutral position? Rev might drop too low after taking such a long time for a gear shift. Though rev match may fill the gap for you.
In my case, stepping on the clutch, moving the shifter and releasing the clutch pedal was in one motion. Rev match is rarely activated.
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      03-01-2023, 06:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS687 View Post
Thanks for the info. According to the carfax, the car had a 'rear axel service' at 1k and the diff oil flushed at 27k (at a BMW dealer). I'll definitely post an update here once I change the trans fluid (as I'm confident it's never been changed before).
Sounds good
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      03-02-2023, 06:00 AM   #20
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Maybe double check the plastic shifter bushing as well, could have some dirt in it or something
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      03-02-2023, 06:03 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifter2090 View Post
Maybe double check the plastic shifter bushing as well, could have some dirt in it or something
+1

If the fluid fails, it's time to check the bushings and shifter assembly itself. Especially if the shifter feels sticky.
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      03-02-2023, 09:45 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kikuchiyo View Post
May not be related to the issue but why taking as long as 1 second till the shifter reaches the neutral position? Rev might drop too low after taking such a long time for a gear shift. Though rev match may fill the gap for you.
In my case, stepping on the clutch, moving the shifter and releasing the clutch pedal was in one motion. Rev match is rarely activated.
I've tried doing it in one motion. My experience has been that the faster I shift, the worse the grind is. If I can be very delicate with each movement and not push the shifter against the gate at any part of my shift, it results in the least amount of grind.
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