03-19-2019, 04:59 PM | #45 | |
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By correct plastics - do you have m2C plastics ? If so please post part numbers TIA BP
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03-19-2019, 05:20 PM | #47 |
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Just been checking realoem, seems the M2OG and the comp share the same part numbers for the upper rad support (crosslink) so no need to change that.
Edit: I’ve just had chance to cross ref the crosslink part numbers with the M4, they are the same, I’m puzzled why Bluebro changed it on his conversion. Last edited by JonD; 03-20-2019 at 03:03 AM.. |
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03-20-2019, 06:41 PM | #48 | |
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1st time was on his f22 m235i - crosslink upgraded to F8x version. 2nd time was F87 OG M2 - existing standard f87 crosslink used
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03-20-2019, 08:13 PM | #49 |
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I got mine dialed in thanks to Bee Pee posts and others on the forum
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03-21-2019, 02:53 AM | #50 | |
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M2C Cowl Panel Cover - 51 71 8 073 546 M2C Engine Hood Seals (fits by the bonnet hinges) - 51 76 8 073 533 &534 M3/4/2C Covers - 51 71 8 059 699 and 64 31 8 059 697 plus the rubber covers that go over the strut tops. The M3/4 bits were used, but the rest were new. The M2C Cowl panel cover fits at the base of the windscreen and allows you to use the M3/4 Covers. Last edited by M Fifty; 03-21-2019 at 02:56 AM.. Reason: Extra info. |
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03-21-2019, 03:58 AM | #51 | ||
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Many thanks for the list. Ballpark price for them ? M2C cowl cover - have you had a chance to compare m2 vs M2C parts ? I was under the impression that both m3/m4 L&R scuttle covers could fit with m2 cowl cover panel. Cheers, BP
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03-21-2019, 05:41 AM | #52 | |
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Looks superb - did you re-use or change many of the plastic parts ie seals etc near the windshield and on the tops of the fenders ? Thanks, BP
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03-21-2019, 01:37 PM | #54 | |
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The cowl fits identically to the OG one, but has fixings to suit the M3/M4 L&R scuttle covers. |
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03-24-2019, 01:31 PM | #55 |
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Finished!
I still need to do some tidying up, but it's drivable.
Finally torqueing up the bolts that go into the rivnuts will have to wait until I find a way to get my 3/8ths Torque Wrench in there without unbolting the front wings... |
03-24-2019, 01:44 PM | #56 | |
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Probably start mine in a few weeks, but as it’s my daily will be done in the day. Unfortunately some of my parts have gone awol in the post, so need to source some of them again |
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03-24-2019, 02:21 PM | #57 |
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Well, mostly it was just follow NewTIS.info and the various threads from people who have already done it. However:
1. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you try test fitting the aluminium brace as it gets alarmingly close to the lead for the jump start terminal. 2. The bracket for the ABS unit gets in the way. You may wish to follow the approach of others and put some felt between it and the brace. 3. Buy a bag of press rivets from BMW. You'll need them, even if you don't mangle a few. 4. I set the rivnuts on the inner wings using an approach using a bolt, some penny washers, some spring washers and an oversized nut described on YouTube. It works well. As previously mentioned, torquing the bolts once the brace is fitted is a bit tricky. 5. Either invest in some cheap towels to act as protective blankets or recycle the oldest ones in the house. 6. The engine cover needs to come off to reseat the engine bay seal that sits between it and the windscreen. The front right mount for the cover goes back on much more easily with some lube on the rubber bush. 7. A really big breaker bar works wonders when finally tightening the two bolts just in front of the windscreen. 8. Take your time, and while i think I could do the whole thing in under 4 hours now, give yourself a couple of days. HTH Last edited by M Fifty; 03-24-2019 at 06:09 PM.. Reason: Realism on time. It's 30m/side for the strut tops. |
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03-28-2019, 04:40 PM | #58 |
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Noting that I've only had the chance to give it some on the 10 mile drive to work (over half on rural roads, the rest on streets) and the weekend still beckons, the results are surprising.
Steering, general front end feel, and - surprisingly - braking all feel significantly different. Steering and front end in corners over 40 mph. Brakes more generally, but Big Stops... So, the combination definitely does something compared to the OG steel items. As to how? Last edited by M Fifty; 03-28-2019 at 04:42 PM.. Reason: Spelling |
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04-16-2019, 07:34 PM | #59 |
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Can anyone with an M2 LCI let me know if they had to change the strut mounts in order to retrofit the carbon fiber brace? It's the one piece I'm still not sure about.
Thanks, Mike |
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04-18-2019, 02:40 PM | #61 |
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04-18-2019, 07:21 PM | #62 |
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Unfortunately you have to pull the springs out and replace top hats. I was a bit surprised by this as well but I did it on my own first time ever messing with suspension. I followed a YouTube vid of a dude taking his off an M2 and it worked great. All in all I think it is worth it. The car is really ridged now. I can jack up one front side and the other wheel comes off the ground!
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04-19-2019, 03:29 AM | #63 |
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It is 'just' possible to replace the top hats without removing the spring by supporting the front suspension on a jack, undoing the top nut and then lowering the suspension until you have clearance to swap the top hats over.
Then carefully raise the front suspension again on the jack while making sure the spring seats properly and the damper shaft goes through the hole in the top hat. You will still need to disconnect the drop link on the roll bar and the headlight aim adjuster as if you were removing the spring/damper/top hat and doing the swap with spring compressors on the bench. |
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05-20-2019, 10:55 AM | #65 |
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not fitted m4 alloy brace yet - next month hopefully if work agenda and family priorities both align to allow me more fettling time
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