[qnet]

My brackets were fine also. FYI, you don’t have to remove the bumper to replace the horns. You can remove the front wheels and front part of the wheel well liner and get to them pretty easy.

[c0riolis]

I finally got the bracket out:
1. The auxiliary radiator does not have to be unplugged, just unbolted to move it out of the way.
2. The headlight has to be removed.
3. The main radiator assembly does not have to be removed, I was able to unbolt the rubber mount to slide it out of the way and remove the last bolt, but it is a major PITA (very little space to work in and you need to be careful not to damage the lines/hoses.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by qnet

My brackets were fine also. FYI, you don’t have to remove the bumper to replace the horns. You can remove the front wheels and front part of the wheel well liner and get to them pretty easy.

Correct

Simple as you’d expect it to be

[c0riolis]

Originally Posted by qnet

My brackets were fine also. FYI, you don’t have to remove the bumper to replace the horns. You can remove the front wheels and front part of the wheel well liner and get to them pretty easy.

Right, if the bracket did not snap it's an easy fix.

[romoguy15]

My left bracket was snapped but I was able to fix this by removing the rivet, and bending the little ear where the tab goes in. I used that slot and put in a bolt right through it. It was the best and easiest repair method in my opinion. Take a look at the photo. The red arrow, tab I straightened out, and the blue arrow is where the bolt slid through it. Very sturdy and less intrusive to the car imo. Second photo shows the repair after. Red arrow point to hole where the rivet was, and blue arrow showing the new bolt.

[romoguy15]

Originally Posted by c0riolis

It is a major PITA, yes. I worked a bit more on the car today and it requires removing a lot of things*:
- Top brace -- the one with the hood latches bolted to it (it's bolted to the bracket)
- Headlight (it's bolted to the bracket)
- Aux/Oil cooler (it's bolted to the bracket)
- Airbox ducting (it goes through the bracket)

* Keeping in mind that I had already removed the following to install the ER FMIC:
- Bumper
- Crash bar
- V-brace
- Intercooler (+ducting)
- Underbody reinforcement plate & belly pan
- Wheel well liner

The main radiator might have to be removed too (it's blocking access to one of the bolts) but I am hoping that just unbolting it and moving it slightly will do.

All in all, I cannot say that I recommend going through all of this if you just want to fix this, I am going to do it because I have ordered the part and I already took everything apart, but I am going to try making a custom bracket to reinforce this and prevent both sides from breaking again, but this could potentially be used as a replacement bracket -- it might be a more practical/economical solution for you.

Holy crap that looks like a big job. I took your advice and did not go down this path. Take a look at my recent reply, I forgot to quote you or tag you in it. Sorry.

[c0riolis]

Originally Posted by romoguy15

Holy crap that looks like a big job. I took your advice and did not go down this path.

Yes, I just finished putting everything back together last night and it was a pain because the bracket is a big part of what controls the headlight and hood latches position and the bolts to move the bracket are not accessible once those two are installed. It took a few tries to have everything lined up right.

Your method is definitely the way to go for this, my OCD just could not handle having a broken part .

[romoguy15]

Originally Posted by c0riolis

Yes, I just finished putting everything back together last night and it was a pain because the bracket is a big part of what controls the headlight and hood latches position and the bolts to move the bracket are not accessible once those two are installed. It took a few tries to have everything lined up right.

Your method is definitely the way to go for this, my OCD just could not handle having a broken part .

I feel ya. I am super OCD as well if you can believe it but just dreaded the idea of taking off all those parts. Great job though. Hats off to you.

[chmura]

Do you have to remove the front bumper cover to replace both horns?

Anyway to see the horn without removing the bumper cover to inspect it?

[romoguy15]

Originally Posted by chmura

Do you have to remove the front bumper cover to replace both horns?

Anyway to see the horn without removing the bumper cover to inspect it?

Yes, you can view i believe both horns by removing the splash guards

[c0riolis]

Originally Posted by romoguy15

Yes, you can view i believe both horns by removing the splash guards

Correct, just remove the front fender liners on the bumper side and both horns are accessible.

[chmura]

Originally Posted by c0riolis

Correct, just remove the front fender liners on the bumper side and both horns are accessible.

Passenger or Driver side front fender?

[c0riolis]

Originally Posted by chmura

Passenger or Driver side front fender?

You have one horn on each side, the driver side one is the low-pitched horn, and the passenger side one is the high-pitched horn.

[vrooooom]

Oh crap. Quite a bit of work just to fix this horn issue. So both wheels would need to come off.

Has anyone tried using Fiamm or the Hellas…. or even Bosch?

[m2ss]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

Oh crap. Quite a bit of work just to fix this horn issue.

That's because it's not a real "M" horn...

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by m2ss

That's because it's not a real "M" horn...

It’s probably from Chi-na… 🤣

[vrooooom]

Looks like I’m going to be the first. Can anyone say what's the wattage for the stocks just so I don't deviate too much, thereby requiring a relay.