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      10-08-2020, 09:28 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CKr View Post
Mike, appreciate the update. I was affected by this too. I got around it by slightly drilling out the backing plate holes, which allowed me to use the screws included in the FC frame kit. It feels sturdy, but I'm sure self-tapping screws would be the way to go.

Edit: Mike, I purchased my frame through IND in June of this year and originally emailed them about the included hardware. They replied, CCing info@futur..., but it doesn't look like I ever got a response. Just another data point for you in case it helps track down any issues on your end.
Yeah I actually spoke to a few people on the Shopify platform and it seems like there were a plethora of stores that were experiencing similar issues because of a GoDaddy problem. Annoying growing pains, but we'll get it all sorted.
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      10-09-2020, 07:49 AM   #24
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Just wanna chime in that I've dealt with FC before and they responded right away to me.
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      10-21-2020, 09:09 PM   #25
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Adding to the list here, I'm affected by this as well. The provided screws that came with the plate look great, but as others mentioned, don't work. Would really be interested in getting another set that will fit.
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      10-30-2020, 02:56 PM   #26
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UPDATE: I went to the local BMW dealer to find out what hardware they typically include for the revised bracket and shot a photo of how it compares to our current offerings.

New orders will have the ability to now select to the updated, much more pronounced thread-forming screws in black plastic per the bracket update (2020+) or our traditional screw type in either silver or black.

We will be looking for black and silver stainless steel hardware options for the updated bracket, but as of now, have only found stainless in silver.
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      10-30-2020, 03:46 PM   #27
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Awesome, thank you Mike. Do you know if it might be possible for those that have already purchased to get the new hardware? If not, do you know the part number for that screw that is highlighted with the blue dot?
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      10-30-2020, 04:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftcoastq View Post
Awesome, thank you Mike. Do you know if it might be possible for those that have already purchased to get the new hardware? If not, do you know the part number for that screw that is highlighted with the blue dot?
I've gone ahead and placed a stocking order for the blue dot screw—I should have them available on Monday
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      10-30-2020, 04:46 PM   #29
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Did you test the frame with 4 blue dot screws fastened to the plate/bracket?

The problem with this frame is that it will not work with just one type of screw. You need the blue dot and the shorter one too. If you use the blue dot screw where the frame sits flush against the plate, it will be too long and protrude enough to push out the screw protectors (unless you don't screw it in all the way, which may look odd).

BTW, can you share the part number of the blue dot screw?
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      10-30-2020, 05:06 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j23 View Post
Did you test the frame with 4 blue dot screws fastened to the plate/bracket?

The problem with this frame is that it will not work with just one type of screw. You need the blue dot and the shorter one too. If you use the blue dot screw where the frame sits flush against the plate, it will be too long and protrude enough to push out the screw protectors (unless you don't screw it in all the way, which may look odd).

BTW, can you share the part number of the blue dot screw?
Blue Dot Screw: 07-14-6-959-892
Short Screw: 07-14-6-959-895

Sorry, I don't have a new M2C wherein I could perform a test and it is, admittedly, inconsistent even at the dealership level in terms of what hardware they affix a plate to a car. Guys, I will be honest—stocking specific hardware for every scenario is going to be difficult as I don't have access to every car in the BMW lineup, but I am trying my absolute best to accommodate requests on a case by case basis.

Specifically for those of you with an M2C, did the dealer affix your plate with four equal length screws? If so, which screw in my attached photo does that look like? Does the M2C require, as per J23's feedback, two different lengths? If so, I'm not sure how many current BMW models adopt this versus four equal length. Community input will be a great service here as to whether we should opt to continue to offer hardware kits as a feasible option or whether there are simply too many scenarios that can create more support cases than not. Help us get you what you need, please!
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      10-30-2020, 05:32 PM   #31
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I dunno why you guys are spending so much on a plain thin frame. I've been using these ones from Amazon for 8 years. They're like 10x cheaper than the future classic one. Work perfectly for the standard and specialty Pennsylvania plates I've used.

https://www.amazon.com/Indeedbuy-New...s%2C160&sr=8-7

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      10-30-2020, 05:38 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
I dunno why you guys are spending so much on a plain thin frame. I've been using these ones from Amazon for 8 years.
Even the Genuine BMW Slimline frame is under $25:

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...sh-82120010399
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      10-30-2020, 07:32 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeM5 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by j23 View Post
Did you test the frame with 4 blue dot screws fastened to the plate/bracket?

The problem with this frame is that it will not work with just one type of screw. You need the blue dot and the shorter one too. If you use the blue dot screw where the frame sits flush against the plate, it will be too long and protrude enough to push out the screw protectors (unless you don't screw it in all the way, which may look odd).

BTW, can you share the part number of the blue dot screw?
Blue Dot Screw: 07-14-6-959-892
Short Screw: 07-14-6-959-895

Sorry, I don't have a new M2C wherein I could perform a test and it is, admittedly, inconsistent even at the dealership level in terms of what hardware they affix a plate to a car. Guys, I will be honest—stocking specific hardware for every scenario is going to be difficult as I don't have access to every car in the BMW lineup, but I am trying my absolute best to accommodate requests on a case by case basis.

Specifically for those of you with an M2C, did the dealer affix your plate with four equal length screws? If so, which screw in my attached photo does that look like? Does the M2C require, as per J23's feedback, two different lengths? If so, I'm not sure how many current BMW models adopt this versus four equal length. Community input will be a great service here as to whether we should opt to continue to offer hardware kits as a feasible option or whether there are simply too many scenarios that can create more support cases than not. Help us get you what you need, please!
No. I don't think you understand. Let me explain...

The supplied screws that came with my brand new 2021 M2C were the short black ones (to the right of the blue dot in your photo). All equal length. Those are the genuine BMW self-tapping screws that - I'm guessing - come with all M2C's (in the US, including any other BMW that uses the same bracket).

These shorter screws work just fine with the stock bracket and license plate. If you attempted to fasten the plate using the blue dot screws from your photo, it would not work because they are too long.

However, when you introduce a frame on top of the plate, you may or may not need longer screws, depending on the thickness of the frame, whether it's recessed, etc. There are many factors at play.

The point I'm trying to make is that while the frame you sell is recessed, one side of it will stick out further away from the plate (by design, according to you) and hence require different length screws on that side. The stock short screws (to the right of the blue dot in your photo) WILL NOT WORK.

You mentioned in an earlier post that "the plate should actually sit flush with the frame, not reside within it". However, that's not how the frame you sell works.

The frame you sell actually sits flush on one side of the plate, which resides within the frame on the other side.

I encourage you to test your product out and actually install it on a new BMW that comes with the bracket we referenced before. Unless you do that, you really won't understand what the problem with your product is.

For any new BMW, your frame should come with two blue dot screws and two shorter screws to make this work.
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      10-30-2020, 07:59 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
I dunno why you guys are spending so much on a plain thin frame. I've been using these ones from Amazon for 8 years. They're like 10x cheaper than the future classic one. Work perfectly for the standard and specialty Pennsylvania plates I've used.

https://www.amazon.com/Indeedbuy-New...160&sr=8-7

I've had similar frames before. There are several things I don't like about them:

1. They rust. If you live in a cold climate and experience salt, they will rust given that they're mostly made of cheap Chinese steel. I've even seen so-called "stainless steel" frames of this type develop rust over time because they're not truly stainless. Billet aluminum won't rust. Sure, it will corrode, but that actually protects it from corroding further.

2. They vibrate when you close the trunk.

3. The screw holes are too large, which forces you to use the hider caps, which in turn makes taking the frame/plate off a PITA. I do this quite frequently when I detail the car to get to the dirt behind the bracket.

4. It's not really that slim, despite being advertised as "slim". The frame discussed in this thread and several others I'm after are truly slimmer and IMO look better.

It sounds like a stupid thing to discuss, but if you're anal like me, you'd be surprised how difficult it is to find a well-fitting, reliable, and truly slim license plate frame. In the last decade, I must have gone through at least 10 license plate frames between my cars and was never truly satisfied with any one of them. If they didn't look like crap, then they either rusted or the paint peeled.
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      10-30-2020, 09:21 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j23 View Post
I've had similar frames before. There are several things I don't like about them:

1. They rust. If you live in a cold climate and experience salt, they will rust given that they're mostly made of cheap Chinese steel. I've even seen so-called "stainless steel" frames of this type develop rust over time because they're not truly stainless. Billet aluminum won't rust. Sure, it will corrode, but that actually protects it from corroding further.

2. They vibrate when you close the trunk.

3. The screw holes are too large, which forces you to use the hider caps, which in turn makes taking the frame/plate off a PITA. I do this quite frequently when I detail the car to get to the dirt behind the bracket.

4. It's not really that slim, despite being advertised as "slim". The frame discussed in this thread and several others I'm after are truly slimmer and IMO look better.

It sounds like a stupid thing to discuss, but if you're anal like me, you'd be surprised how difficult it is to find a well-fitting, reliable, and truly slim license plate frame. In the last decade, I must have gone through at least 10 license plate frames between my cars and was never truly satisfied with any one of them. If they didn't look like crap, then they either rusted or the paint peeled.
It doesn't sound like you've used these at all. You must've gotten a different model or brand.

Had mine for 8 years and live in northereast pennsylvania and drive my cars every winter... no rust. They are stainless steel, including the mounting hardware.

No vibrations here. Must've installed yours wrong. And these have additional hardware to secure them (the plastic caps and retainers) that add additional security compared to a plain screw of the Future classics.

Screw holes aren't too large (as show in picture). Nor are the caps hard to pop off. I do it by hand. Just squeeze them and they come right off.



Frame is 1cm thin. Not sure how thin the future classic ones are, but these are the thinnest of the plates indent. Can't go much thinner without risking the plate popping out.



Also, to clarify, the picture I posted here aren't of the actual finish of the frame. It was originally a stainless frame that I painted black, then clearcoated, then sanded and flaked back the clear coat a few years later. I like my frames to have a worn and beat-up look to them. So don't take the finish in the pictures as the quality of the frame.
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      10-30-2020, 09:53 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by j23 View Post
I've had similar frames before. There are several things I don't like about them:

1. They rust. If you live in a cold climate and experience salt, they will rust given that they're mostly made of cheap Chinese steel. I've even seen so-called "stainless steel" frames of this type develop rust over time because they're not truly stainless. Billet aluminum won't rust. Sure, it will corrode, but that actually protects it from corroding further.

2. They vibrate when you close the trunk.

3. The screw holes are too large, which forces you to use the hider caps, which in turn makes taking the frame/plate off a PITA. I do this quite frequently when I detail the car to get to the dirt behind the bracket.

4. It's not really that slim, despite being advertised as "slim". The frame discussed in this thread and several others I'm after are truly slimmer and IMO look better.

It sounds like a stupid thing to discuss, but if you're anal like me, you'd be surprised how difficult it is to find a well-fitting, reliable, and truly slim license plate frame. In the last decade, I must have gone through at least 10 license plate frames between my cars and was never truly satisfied with any one of them. If they didn't look like crap, then they either rusted or the paint peeled.
It doesn't sound like you've used these at all. You must've gotten a different model or brand.

Had mine for 8 years and live in northereast pennsylvania and drive my cars every winter... no rust. They are stainless steel, including the mounting hardware.

No vibrations here. Must've installed yours wrong. And these have additional hardware to secure them (the plastic caps and retainers) that add additional security compared to a plain screw of the Future classics.

Screw holes aren't too large (as show in picture). Nor are the caps hard to pop off. I do it by hand. Just squeeze them and they come right off.



Frame is 1cm thin. Not sure how thin the future classic ones are, but these are the thinnest of the plates indent. Can't go much thinner without risking the plate popping out.



Also, to clarify, the picture I posted here aren't of the actual finish of the frame. It was originally a stainless frame that I painted black, then clearcoated, then sanded and flaked back the clear coat a few years later. I like my frames to have a worn and beat-up look to them. So don't take the finish in the pictures as the quality of the frame.
Thanks for posting the pics. They serve as proof that there's no shortage of crap frames out there.

I don't want to get into this deeper than I already have. If you like your frame, more power to you. Different strokes. I like quality items and a Chinese frame from Amazon simply won't do it for me.

We all have very different standards. I couldn't even begin to unravel your reply in full without overwhelming us both. So I'll refrain.
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      10-30-2020, 10:15 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j23 View Post
Thanks for posting the pics. They serve as proof that there's no shortage of crap frames out there.

I don't want to get into this deeper than I already have. If you like your frame, more power to you. Different strokes. I like quality items and a Chinese frame from Amazon simply won't do it for me.

We all have very different standards. I couldn't even begin to unravel your reply in full without overwhelming us both. So I'll refrain.
Doesn't seem like you have a counter argument. The cold hard facts I provided trumped the non-sense you spewed in every single way.
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      11-02-2020, 08:19 PM   #38
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Not saying they're not nice, but wow, $79 for a license plate frame?
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      11-03-2020, 11:11 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by j23 View Post
Thanks for posting the pics. They serve as proof that there's no shortage of crap frames out there.

I don't want to get into this deeper than I already have. If you like your frame, more power to you. Different strokes. I like quality items and a Chinese frame from Amazon simply won't do it for me.

We all have very different standards. I couldn't even begin to unravel your reply in full without overwhelming us both. So I'll refrain.
Doesn't seem like you have a counter argument. The cold hard facts I provided trumped the non-sense you spewed in every single way.
Clearly this thread is not for you. Congratulations on your cheap Chinese-made frame. No need for you to respond anymore.
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      11-03-2020, 11:43 AM   #40
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Clearly this thread is not for you. Congratulations on your cheap Chinese-made frame. No need for you to respond anymore.
Umm, ok. Not a single thing you've said has been able to back that it's a bad quality frame. In fact, this entire thread is about how bad the future classics one is. But, I guess two can play your game. Congrats on spending $100 on a $3 frame that doesn't fit license plates properly and who customer service doesn't respond to your emails.

Last edited by Anthony1s; 11-03-2020 at 11:49 AM..
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      11-03-2020, 02:15 PM   #41
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Why even spend the time and energy to come to this thread to evangelize how sick your cheap ebay license plate frame is lmao
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      11-03-2020, 03:00 PM   #42
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One is milled billet aluminum the other is bent sheet steel, the quality of the former is going to be higher than the latter by almost any objective measure. Whether a license plate frame needs to be high quality is a different argument and one not worth entering into because it's a value call.

Arguing values over the internet is like trying to put out a fire with spit.
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      11-03-2020, 03:34 PM   #43
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Why even spend the time and energy to come to this thread to evangelize how sick your cheap ebay license plate frame is lmao
Because I was asked to provide a better option than the future classic version.
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      11-03-2020, 03:39 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3username View Post
One is milled billet aluminum the other is bent sheet steel, the quality of the former is going to be higher than the latter by almost any objective measure. Whether a license plate frame needs to be high quality is a different argument and one not worth entering into because it's a value call.

Arguing values over the internet is like trying to put out a fire with spit.
Mine is not bent sheet metal. And I fail to see how the quality of the FC one is greater. Aluminum is not greater than stainless steel. It's weaker, less corrosion resistant, and more expensive.
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