[PresidentEvil]

Hi guyz

idk whats going on but my 2018 M2's brakes squeal when I initially start to push pedal about the first 20% then the noise stops if i push harder

the car has like 10,000 miles spo i dont think the pads need replacing, idrive says the brakes are due in 90,000 miles lol

pics of rotor and brake attached

[///MPhatic]

This is a common complaint. The previous owner of my car complained at 9,000 miles and they replaced her pads and rotors with new ones. I had no issues when I got the car. However, I also swapped to Akebono's immediately to preserve my rotors, have less dust, and have less noise. If you don't track your car I highly recommend them. If you do track your car, sorry, I can't help you.

[PresidentEvil]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

This is a common complaint. The previous owner of my car complained at 9,000 miles and they replaced her pads and rotors with new ones. I had no issues when I got the car. However, I also swapped to Akebono's immediately to preserve my rotors, have less dust, and have less noise. If you don't track your car I highly recommend them. If you do track your car, sorry, I can't help you.

nah i dont track it, I heard good things about akebono too bad there are out of stock

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by PresidentEvil

nah i dont track it, I heard good things about akebono too bad there are out of stock

I certainly recommend them. My rotors have almost no wear at all after 13K miles, I get very little dust, and zero noise.

I find them in stock on ebay.

[PresidentEvil]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

I certainly recommend them. My rotors have almost no wear at all after 13K miles, I get very little dust, and zero noise.

I find them in stock on ebay.

thanks, just bought some

[Maximus_M2]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

I certainly recommend them. My rotors have almost no wear at all after 13K miles, I get very little dust, and zero noise.

I find them in stock on ebay.

Is there a certain type of Akebono pad for the M2C? Thx!

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by Maximus_M2

Is there a certain type of Akebono pad for the M2C? Thx!

There isn't.

What you need are the next best thing, which is the Carbotech 1521.

The fronts are $266, the rears are $182.

If you don't track your car it's the best money you've ever spent.

[jritt@essex]

No need to buy new pads. Just re-bed the ones on the car. Do a series of stops that will get the pads hot enough to stick to the disc face. That should quiet them down considerably.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by jritt@essex

No need to buy new pads. Just re-bed the ones on the car. Do a series of stops that will get the pads hot enough to stick to the disc face. That should quiet them down considerably.

And help kill your rotors in the process. I realize you're trying to help, but increasing rotor wear isn't the way for a street car, news pads are.

[jritt@essex]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

And help kill your rotors in the process. I realize you're trying to help, but increasing rotor wear isn't the way for a street car, news pads are.

Iron discs can handle a tremendous amount of abuse. Bedding them in does not kill them. Quite the opposite in fact. When you heat them up in the manner as described in the video, you lay down a pad transfer layer on the discs that improves performance, reduces noise, and helps ensure longer overall disc life.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by jritt@essex

Iron discs can handle a tremendous amount of abuse. Bedding them in does not kill them. Quite the opposite in fact. When you heat them up in the manner as described in the video, you lay down a pad transfer layer on the discs that improves performance, reduces noise, and helps ensure longer overall disc life.

If you're calling heating the rotors up to remove inconsistent pad deposits "bedding in", then that's fine, and will work, but will also remove rotor surface in the process.

That excessive brake dust you see from the stock pads is ROTOR, not just pad, as BMW sees rotors as sacrificial.

Stock rotors are $1400, and have 1.6mm of wear before replacement.

For a street car ceramic pads are a must, as they are superior in every way.

[jritt@essex]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

If you're calling heating the rotors up to remove inconsistent pad deposits "bedding in", then that's fine, and will work, but will also remove rotor surface in the process.

That excessive brake dust you see from the stock pads is ROTOR, not just pad, as BMW sees rotors as sacrificial.

Stock rotors are $1400, and have 1.6mm of wear before replacement.

For a street car ceramic pads are a must, as they are superior in every way.

You're talking about two different processes. Heating up pads and getting them to stick to the disc isn't removing a great deal of disc material. We actually have a machine in our facility that does this every day all day: https://www.essexparts.com/pro-race-...ng--burnishing

That is different from cleaning discs by running race pads on the discs on them cold, which scrapes a ton of material off the disc face.

'Ceramic' pads are more of a buzzword than anything else. Most of the pads labeled as ceramic are indeed mild and tend to not chew the discs up very much. That said, there are all sorts of mild brake pads made from a wide range of materials. For a street car, what you absolutely do not want is a race pad designed to operate at high track temps. When cold they act in a highly abrasive manner and will eat discs for lunch.

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by jritt@essex

'Ceramic' pads are more of a buzzword than anything else.

For a street car what you don't want is the stock pads. They dust like crazy, eat rotors, and squeak.

The solution is simple;

Blue brakes = Akebono
2NH = CarboTech

Done.

[jritt@essex]

Ferodo DS2500 are a great option as well.

[ghstm2]

Originally Posted by PresidentEvil

Hi guyz

idk whats going on but my 2018 M2's brakes squeal when I initially start to push pedal about the first 20% then the noise stops if i push harder

the car has like 10,000 miles spo i dont think the pads need replacing, idrive says the brakes are due in 90,000 miles lol

pics of rotor and brake attached

Originally Posted by PresidentEvil

Hi guyz

idk whats going on but my 2018 M2's brakes squeal when I initially start to push pedal about the first 20% then the noise stops if i push harder

the car has like 10,000 miles spo i dont think the pads need replacing, idrive says the brakes are due in 90,000 miles lol

pics of rotor and brake attached

Mine does the same thing, have about 26k miles and more than 7mm on the front and rear outside pads (have to pull the wheels to check the inside pads) when coming to a stop. It gets even more annoying that as I accelerate from the stop it sounds the same as when I had stopped but for only a few seconds like the caliper is sticking to the rotors or something. But as it gets going squealing is gone and resumes when I stop. Hella annoying. Might pull stock pads and throw some aftermarket ones as others have suggested since rotors still look good

[gsrbri]

If the car has stock pads, I recommend the following:

1) if it's not a daily driver, be careful of washing the car and then putting it away without getting heat into the brakes so they can dry

2) pull the brakes apart. Specifically, remove the pads from the calipers. The retention pins need some lubrication for the pads to slide properly. They brakes will squeak and eventually groan when stopping if you let this lubricant dry up and/or wash off.

I posted previously on this, to include photos. My brakes make zero noise under all conditions (unless I swap-in racing pads…and then they are loud)

Bedding slightly isn't a bad idea, either. Although I don't believe you're hearing a brake pad to rotor surface harmonic. You are hearing a vibration translated into a harmonic because of non-lubricated caliper pins.

Good luck

[M2LA]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

For a street car what you don't want is the stock pads. They dust like crazy, eat rotors, and squeak.

The solution is simple;

Blue brakes = Akebono
2NH = CarboTech

Done.

hi - I have a street only 2017 M2 w ~44K and would imagine I am going to need brakes soon. the brake dust is and always has been insane. don't know who made the oem stuff I am running. what exactly would you recommend for me. I live in LA if that matters. my driving is a mix of city/highway. Akebono pads seems to be obtainable, should I get those and what rotors? do I replace the front/rears at the same time? thank you!

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by M2LA

hi - I have a street only 2017 M2 w ~44K and would imagine I am going to need brakes soon. the brake dust is and always has been insane. don't know who made the oem stuff I am running. what exactly would you recommend for me. I live in LA if that matters. my driving is a mix of city/highway. Akebono pads seems to be obtainable, should I get those and what rotors? do I replace the front/rears at the same time? thank you!

1. If you drive your car street only, even spirited, then yes, I absolutely recommend Akebono pads.

2. I like the stock rotors, get them from Evan@Tischer at Getbmwparts.com

3. Replacement depends on wear. You need a set of calipers to gauge what you have left on the fronts and rears. They start out at 30mm front and 24mm rear, and only give you 1.6mm of wear, so you'll have to check them for minimum thickness. This isn't a hard thing to do at all, just get yourself a set of calipers, take the wheel off, and be detailed in checking it. You might not need rotors at all.

[M2LA]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

1. If you drive your car street only, even spirited, then yes, I absolutely recommend Akebono pads.

2. I like the stock rotors, get them from Evan@Tischer at Getbmwparts.com

3. Replacement depends on wear. You need a set of calipers to gauge what you have left on the fronts and rears. They start out at 30mm front and 24mm rear, and only give you 1.6mm of wear, so you'll have to check them for minimum thickness. This isn't a hard thing to do at all, just get yourself a set of calipers, take the wheel off, and be detailed in checking it. You might not need rotors at all.

Thank you for getting back to me. there are times that I drive the car hard but its mostly a dd. I got unlazy and read the same, akebono + oem rotors, thank you. as I said I am in la and pretty much everyone uses ikonic which is 35mi rt. I am going to order everything and take it all in with me at the end of 2022 when i have the oil and brake flush done and they can check the rotors then but if I am switching to new braking material I will want to start off fresh - don't want to turn the rotors even if it could be done. out in la nobody does it that I am aware of. I remember when I went from the stock pilots to the sport 4s and how thrilled I was. I don't try and save when it comes to tires and brakes. appreciate you getting back to me, be safe

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by M2LA

Thank you for getting back to me. there are times that I drive the car hard but its mostly a dd. I got unlazy and read the same, akebono + oem rotors, thank you. as I said I am in la and pretty much everyone uses ikonic which is 35mi rt. I am going to order everything and take it all in with me at the end of 2022 when i have the oil and brake flush done and they can check the rotors then but if I am switching to new braking material I will want to start off fresh - don't want to turn the rotors even if it could be done. out in la nobody does it that I am aware of. I remember when I went from the stock pilots to the sport 4s and how thrilled I was. I don't try and save when it comes to tires and brakes. appreciate you getting back to me, be safe

The rotors can absolutely be turned, but with so little to work with, you're really cutting down their life by doing so.

[M2LA]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

The rotors can absolutely be turned, but with so little to work with, you're really cutting down their life by doing so.

its more of an logistics issue, if the shop does not turn which I am sure they don't then it means them sending it out or my getting them surfaced. as I said, its LA, its vast out here. not going to mess with it. i will measure the rotors as I am curious but there are decent lips on all 4 and the fronts are super lippy.

so pads and rotors, I am set on what to get - your opinion on the below. I was going to skip the bolts, seems like a waste of ~$60 but I am open to your opinion on it.

Mucho thanks!

BMW Brake Disc Set Screw
BMW Brake Caliper Carrier Mounting Bolt
ATE DOT 4 SL.6 Brake Fluid (1 Liter)

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by M2LA

its more of an logistics issue, if the shop does not turn which I am sure they don't then it means them sending it out or my getting them surfaced. as I said, its LA, its vast out here. not going to mess with it. i will measure the rotors as I am curious but there are decent lips on all 4 and the fronts are super lippy.

so pads and rotors, I am set on what to get - your opinion on the below. I was going to skip the bolts, seems like a waste of ~$60 but I am open to your opinion on it.

Mucho thanks!

BMW Brake Disc Set Screw
BMW Brake Caliper Carrier Mounting Bolt
ATE DOT 4 SL.6 Brake Fluid (1 Liter)

Any corner shop with a lathe should be able to turn them, but that's your choice.

I bought new bolts, but I've never heard of anyone having an issue, so that's your call.