[F87source]

Originally Posted by John wk

I am truly grateful. You are an encyclopedia M2.. It's a blessing to have people like you on the forum and to be able to learn from the other side of the world. Thanks source f87 I love learning about cars, but especially about mine. Do you think there is a problem with fitting another OEM? The only downside would be that in 7 years I would have to spend another 50€. My mechanic tells me he would change the whole thing, including the hose and expansion tank tube, for about 90€. My car has 78k and has had DKG gearbox oil done. Next week I'm going to do engine oil, spark plugs and filters, change the expansion tank hose and change the Micky Mouse flange and tube In the near future I'm thinking about the ground bolt, water pump and how to improve the intercooler and DO88 charging tube and I think that with that I'll be ready for a season.

Personally I would upgrade the mickey mouse flange and the hose because a really good aftermarket option exists.

For the stock coolant over flow hose I would just replace it with a stock one.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by EvasiveF87

Piggy backing along on this, my OG is sitting at something like 40,600 miles and it’s a 2017.

The engine bay is pretty damn clean. Hoses and everything look healthy but this looks like a pretty easy DIY and the part from BMW is only $42 so I might replace for the sake of being safe than sorry.

My question is on a car that hasn’t had it explode / break what would the process be to install? Is bleeding the system necessary?

From what I’ve seen you can just let the car sit overnight, pull that hose, top off coolant if necessary and pop out the bleeder screw for a few seconds and that’s it.

My car just recently professionally had the coolant flushed so I don’t want to risk compromising that job and spending more money lol

Yes that procedure you outlined is correct.

Yeah in would bleed the system just in case so you don't add air pockets to the system. Btw even with a professional bleed (aka a vacuum bleed) they'll have to run the built in bleed procedure anyways. Running the built in bleed procedure won't do any harm at all, it pretty much just turns on the water pump (in addition to pulsing it) which is what happens when you drive anyways. So there's literally no good reason to run the bleed procedure.

[EvasiveF87]

Originally Posted by F87source

Yes that procedure you outlined is correct.

Yeah in would bleed the system just in case so you don't add air pockets to the system. Btw even with a professional bleed (aka a vacuum bleed) they'll have to run the built in bleed procedure anyways. Running the built in bleed procedure won't do any harm at all, it pretty much just turns on the water pump (in addition to pulsing it) which is what happens when you drive anyways. So there's literally no good reason to run the bleed procedure.

Understood! While we're on the topic, if just topping up coolant in the reservoir is it safe to pour in and go? That's how I've treated my last few cars but I was unsure if any tinkering with the bleeder screw or bleeding system in the car is necessary.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by EvasiveF87

Understood! While we're on the topic, if just topping up coolant in the reservoir is it safe to pour in and go? That's how I've treated my last few cars but I was unsure if any tinkering with the bleeder screw or bleeding system in the car is necessary.

Well yes, just make sure the coolant is cool before opening the cap or else you risk injury or introducing air into the system. But I would also run the built in bleed cycle.


The bleed screw is used when topping up an empty cooling system so air can be forced out as you fill the coolant. For the expansion hose job you shouldn't lose enough coolant to warrant opening the bleed screw, but you can if you want to.

[vrooooom]

Wanna post the part number of that original bmw replacement part?

[NSXR]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

wanna post the part number of that original bmw replacement part?

17-12-8-570-061

[vrooooom]

Oh it's the same one everyone's been talking about. I didn't know it's just above right on the hood and a 5min job. Better get this done. The other being the mickey mouse flange + hose which I'm being lazy of doing.

[powerplaymike]

Didn’t see it mentioned:
Seems like everyone posting has an OG
is this an N55 exclusive problem?

[John wk]

Originally Posted by NSXR

17-12-8-570-061

Is it true that replacing the mickey mouse flange takes a lot of work and that the entire fan has to be removedand you have a lot of work? ? Replacing the mickey mouse flange, coolant hose and vacuum line can take 2 hours of labor

[vrooooom]

I don't believe it needs removal of the fan. But it does need changing and flushing of the coolant so that adds up. removal of the driver's wheel and cover I believe if I remember it right. F87source has a write up on it. If you're DIY this plus that flange and flushing I would guess more than 2 hrs.

[John wk]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

I don't believe it needs removal of the fan. But it does need changing and flushing of the coolant so that adds up. removal of the driver's wheel and cover I believe if I remember it right. F87source has a write up on it. If you're DIY this plus that flange and flushing I would guess more than 2 hrs.

They told me that they had to lift the electro and it is heavy, since it has opening tabs different from other models and they had to take it out between 2 and approximately 2 hours 30 minutes of work, purge and refill liquid, coolant hose, and the vacuum line man

[jefe2000]

Originally Posted by powerplaymike

Didn’t see it mentioned:
Seems like everyone posting has an OG
is this an N55 exclusive problem?

Correct, this doesn’t appear to be an issue for the S55 engine:
https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=31860816

[jefe2000]

Originally Posted by John wk

They told me that they had to lift the electro and it is heavy, since it has opening tabs different from other models and they had to take it out between 2 and approximately 2 hours 30 minutes of work, purge and refill liquid, coolant hose, and the vacuum line man

The instructions I’ve seen don’t include removal of the radiator fan.

For example the written instructions in this F87source review:
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2113864

Or this YouTube video of the installation procedure* from TheHunterHofman:
https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=29450216

* Note that the video from TheHunterHofman shows installation of the Rein flange. This requires reuse of the BMW OEM coolant hose, which is fairly tricky. The better route appears to be to use the ECS flange, which includes its own silicone hose.

[John wk]

Originally Posted by jefe2000

The instructions I’ve seen don’t include removal of the radiator fan.

For example the written instructions in this F87source review:
https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2113864

Or this YouTube video of the installation procedure* from TheHunterHofman:
https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=29450216

* Note that the video from TheHunterHofman shows installation of the Rein flange. This requires reuse of the BMW OEM coolant hose, which is fairly tricky. The better route appears to be to use the ECS flange, which includes its own silicone hose.

I don't know why they did it that way, I have installed OEM factory flanges and hoses. If the OEM ones have lasted 7 years and almost 80,000 km, I think they will last practically the same.

[John wk]

Originally Posted by John wk

I don't know why they did it that way, I have installed OEM factory flanges and hoses.My main workshop only supports putting in OEM parts. Although I don't think so in certain cases, If the OEM ones have lasted 7 years and almost 80,000 km, I think they will last practically the same.

I just found the video you sent me on YouTube. Maybe they did it that way and with the purge and the 3 cables it could take 2 hours.