[Poochie]

Originally Posted by chris719

I'm not saying Poochie does either, just that this is hilariously incorrect.[/QUOTE]

I never claimed to be an expert, neither do I play one on TV. I always correct members here when they assume otherwise..

I merely found a viable solution to the subject at hand and shared it with the class, just like the hundreds of other amateur threads here..

I didn't expect it to be an attacked on my intentions or my qualifications.

Take or leave it, it's a free suggestion. If you feel it's unsafe, that's your call but It's my way of giving back, in exchange for the all information I've learn here.. Sorry.. 🤷🏻

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

There is zero potential hazard due to increased heat, due to adding a properly valued resistor. Yet you claim there is. If you are supplying current to a circuit, let's say 12w, the heat will always be 12w. A resistor does not bring more power to a circuit. Heat is a by product of current, and there is no additional current being applied to the circuit when you add a resistor.

You have dangerous misconceptions about how electricity works. Current is not measured in Watts, the fundamental unit is the Ampere. A resistor in shunt is in parallel with the load and will increase current drawn and therefore power dissipation. Current is better considered "drawn" from a voltage source in cases like this, not supplied.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Poochie

I never claimed to be an expert, neither do I play one on TV. I always correct members here when they assume otherwise..

I merely found a viable solution to the subject at hand and shared it with the class, just like the hundreds of other amateur threads here..

I didn't expect it to be attacked on my intentions or my qualifications.

Take or leave it, it's a free suggestion. If you feel it's unsafe, that's your call but It's my way of giving back, in exchange for the all information I've learn here.. Sorry.. ����

No, please don't take that sentence the wrong way, I just haven't had time to read all the posts on this to confirm if you are correct or not. That's all I meant. Of what I have read, I agree that loading the circuit with an additional resistor to ground to trick the system is not an ideal solution to the problem.

I'm not saying you're wrong at all, but at the very least Anthony1s doesn't understand how circuits work. I guess it's possible he is right for the wrong reason, but yeah, he clearly doesn't understand what he is talking about.

[pz619]

My left rear is considering retirement. It seems to work about 90% of the time. I’ve just been too lazy to take it in. Usually it fails in the first 5 mins of a trip then works fine after. No issues with the right.

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by chris719

You have dangerous misconceptions about how electricity works. Current is not measured in Watts, the fundamental unit is the Ampere. A resistor in shunt is in parallel with the load and will increase current drawn and therefore power dissipation. Current is better considered "drawn" from a voltage source in cases like this, not supplied.

Not once did I say current was measured in watts. I used watts as an example because that is the unit Poochie was using (incorrectly might I add) but I used it because it was something he was familiar with. And I gave that example to show him how a resistor works. And no, current is not "drawn". Just because you say it is so, doesn't make it so. Current is governed by physics and Ohm's law i=e/R

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Not once did I say current was measured in watts. I used watts as an example because that is the unit Poochie was using (incorrectly might I add) but I used it because it was something he was familiar with. And I gave that example to show him how a resistor works. And no, current is not "drawn". Just because you say it is so, doesn't make it so. Current is governed by physics and Ohm's law i=e/R

Actually, you very much did. You should really stop speaking on this topic. You DEFINITELY do not know how a resistor works. Again, I provided links to educate you. Please consult them before you give more bad or potentially dangerous advice.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...ic/ohmlaw.html
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...ic/elepow.html

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

There is zero potential hazard due to increased heat, due to adding a properly valued resistor. Yet you claim there is. If you are supplying current to a circuit, let's say 12w, the heat will always be 12w.

(W == Watts == Power) != (I == Ampere == Current)

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by chris719

No, please don't take that sentence the wrong way, I just haven't had time to read all the posts on this to confirm if you are correct or not. That's all I meant. Of what I have read, I agree that loading the circuit with an additional resistor to ground to trick the system is not an ideal solution to the problem.

I'm not saying you're wrong at all, but at the very least Anthony1s doesn't understand how circuits work. I guess it's possible he is right for the wrong reason, but yeah, he clearly doesn't understand what he is talking about.

Thanx for the clarification

I kind of understand why he's worried but the way is going about it is misguided and patronizing ..

If I thought or if anyone can confirm with certainty that there was ounce of danger by removing the bulb checks, I wouldn't of done it or clearly state a disclaimer, as I'm Mr. Play-it-Safe..

I'm sorry I got dragged down this rabbit hole and word of advice, I suggest you don't get sucked into that dark void either; trust me, it's a dead end..

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by chris719

Actually, you very much did. You should really stop speaking on this topic. You DEFINITELY do not know how a resistor works. Again, I provided links to educate you. Please consult them before you give more bad or potentially dangerous advice.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...ic/ohmlaw.html
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...ic/elepow.html



(W == Watts == Power) != (I == Ampere == Current)

Taking my words out of context. And where did I give advise?? All I've been doing is explaining how Poochie is wrong and that you shouldn't add a resistor to the turn signals. You are another gaslighter.

You do realize the very first sentence of your very first link proves I'm right, right?

"For many conductors of electricity, the electric current which will flow through them is directly proportional to the voltage applied to them. "

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Thanx for the clarification

I kind of understand why he's worried but the way is going about it is misguided and patronizing ..

If I thought or if anyone can confirm with certainty that there was ounce of danger removing the bulb checks, I wouldn't of done it or clearly state a disclaimer, as I'm Mr. Play-it-Safe..

I'm sorry I got dragged down this rabbit hole and word of advice, I suggest you don't get sucked into that dark void either; trust me, it's a dead end..

I'll have to read the 2016-2017 threads to come to a conclusion. I understand where he is coming from about disabling the bulb check being a coverup of an issue. I also understand why it could be that the warm check is meaningless for the LEDs and improperly set from the factory.

The only concern I have is that it is not tripped when the car is brand new. That suggests that even if it is improperly coded by BMW, something is changing over time. Once I read through the older threads and TSB I can tell you what my opinion is.

Gut feeling is that disabling the check is not any worse than ignoring the fault. Why do I say that? Because the fault condition causes a rapid blinking which still means it's driving the LEDs. It doesn't seem any safer to me if the concern is localized heating of a wire or connector.

Is it still safer to head right to the dealership than disable the bulb check? Maybe, but I would guess that the end result is your turn signals stop working completely one day rather than causing a fire. It's just a guess though, if people have pictures or evidence of things like melted wire jackets then I would learn towards not disabling this check.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Taking my words out of context. And where did I give advise?? You are another gaslighter.

I didn't take your words out of context. You literally posted about supplying 12W of current to a circuit. You can see my quote.

The bottom line is that you clearly do not understand the relationships here and you should not pretend that you do or that you are qualified to speak on this. I'm not gaslighting, I just want to be sure other people reading this thread know that anything you do propose comes from an incorrect understanding of how electronics work.

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by chris719

I didn't take your words out of context. You literally posted about supplying 12W of current to a circuit. You can see my quote.

The bottom line is that you clearly do not understand the relationships here and you should not pretend that you do or that you are qualified to speak on this.

Yes and I told you that Poochie was speaking of watts beforehand. With his limited knowledge of electricity and proven lack of conversational comprehension, I used watts in an attempt to help him understand. Before posting, I was debating using a river as an analogy. Glad I didn't, because then you would come in and said "This idiot thinks rivers are electricity. Everything he said is invalid"

And I have absolutely no incomprehension of how electronics work. You are literally taking an example I made out of context and building an argument that I don't know what I'm talking about out of that. It's honestly pathetic and if you actually had an understanding of electricity, you wouldn't need to make such a sorry argument against me.

[Poochie]

[QUOTE=chris719;26640697]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Is it still safer to head right to the dealership than disable the bulb check? Maybe, but I would guess that the end result is your turn signals stop working completely one day rather than causing a fire. It's just a guess though, if people have pictures or evidence of things like melted wire jackets then I would learn towards not disabling this check.

Fair enough but the result of melted wires are because incandescent bulbs overloading the ground wire, LEDs runs and operates on less amperage and reverse polarity.

There has yet been a cases where the ground wire is burnt out in any new LED setup, the aforementioned cases are all with incandescent bulb clusters..

Also, on all the new G-Series 330i loaner car(s) and my bother's 2020 M340i, the bulb checks are all disabled for the LED turn signals, I can confirm this.. Had it been that detrimental to safety, why disable it on newer vehicles (rhetorical question).

Maybe BMW finally got the memo..

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Yes and I told you that Poochie was speaking of watts beforehand. With his limited knowledge of electricity and proven lack of conversational comprehension, I used watts in an attempt to help him understand. Before posting, I was debating using a river as an analogy. Glad I didn't, because then you would come in and said "This idiot thinks rivers are electricity. Everything he said is invalid"

And I have absolutely no incomprehension of how electronics work. You are literally taking an example I made out of context and building an argument that I don't know what I'm talking about out of that. It's honestly pathetic and if you actually had an understanding of electricity, you wouldn't need to make such a sorry argument against me.

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

All it does it limit power going through it. For example, if you have 12w going into a 1w resistor, you will have 11w leaving it...

But let's say you add a resistor into the circuit. Well, for example purposes, lets say the car provides 12v to the bulb, and you add a 1v resistor so the bulb only receives 11v.

All of these are statements are 100% factually incorrect. I only work as a practicing engineer designing electronics and software for a highly regulated industry, but what do I know? You would fail a high school physics quiz on electricity if you believe the statements you made are correct.

Please sir, find me a 1V resistor. Or prove that if you have 12W going into a 1W rated resistor you will have 11W leaving it. I am waiting.

MAYBE Poochie isn't right, but your explanations are nonsensical. You should stop attacking him for the very sin you are guilty of.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Fair enough but the result of melted wires are because incandescent bulbs overloading the ground wire, LEDs runs and operates on less amperage and reverse polarity.

There has yet been a cases where the ground wire is burnt out in any new LED setup, the aforementioned cases are all with incandescent bulb clusters..

Also, on all the new G-Series 330i loaner car(s) and my bother's 2020 M340i, the bulb checks are all disabled for the LED turn signals, I can confirm this.. Had it been that detrimental to safety, why disable it on newer vehicles (rhetorical question).

Maybe BMW finally got the memo..

I'm still suspicious as to why this happens over time and not right off the lot (if that is the case?). To me, that is a slight concern. I doubt it is a serious safety issue, and it is very reassuring to know no one has reported signs of heating in cars with the LED signals. I do think we should be careful when comparing to the G platform because both the driving circuit and any monitoring may be implemented in a completely different way.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by chris719

I'm still suspicious as to why this happens over time and not right off the lot (if that is the case?). To me, that is a slight concern. I doubt it is a serious safety issue, and it is very reassuring to know no one has reported signs of heating in cars with the LED signals. I do think we should be careful when comparing to the G platform because both the driving circuit and any monitoring may be implemented in a completely different way.

All good points and it will be taken into consideration but keep in mind that me and hundreds of others have been running the LCI taillights with the bulb checks disabled, since the Summer of 2017 and our cars didn't blow up.

DIY: LCI Tailights https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1405431

M2 LCI tail lights retrofitted on pre-LCI M2 https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1397351

New LED Taillights https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1383466

https://www.1erforum.de/threads/f22-....243355/page-4


I was hoping and praying it would, so I could take the insurance money and buy me a CS but no such luck, just an error-free turn signal, thus far.. Damn, unlucky me, I guess..🤷🏻

Also, IND was selling these lights and included coding to disable the bulb checks for this exact reason..

As I mentioned, it was merely a suggestion; if anyone wants to handle this issue without the bulb checks removed, please do as you like, it's just some friendly advice.


https://www.getbmwparts.com/p-f22-23...-pkf22lcitails


https://ind-distribution.com/product...tail-light-set

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by chris719

All of these are statements are 100% factually incorrect. I only work as a practicing engineer designing electronics and software for a highly regulated industry, but what do I know? You would fail a high school physics quiz on electricity if you believe the statements you made are correct.

Please sir, find me a 1V resistor. Or prove that if you have 12W going into a 1W rated resistor you will have 11W leaving it. I am waiting.

MAYBE Poochie isn't right, but your explanations are nonsensical. You should stop attacking him for the very sin you are guilty of.

What? Your links clearly show I am correct in how resistors work. Your argument is based on me using the wrong unit. Which I used so Poochie would understand better. I could've said 12 beans being supplied through a 1 bean resistor would have 11 beans come out the other side. It would still be accurate analogy for how resistors work, but you'd still think I'm wrong because I didn't use the unit of measurement familiar to you. If you know anything about teaching, proper teaching uses analogies familiar to people, so they can relate easier. Poochie was familiar with watts and volts (thought incorrectly) as he was stating watts and volts in literally every single post he previously made. That's why I used them.

[Anthony1s]

Remember Poochie, he agreed with me that disabling the bulbs checks is not a good idea. You seem to be forgetting that because you wanna focus on what wins your argument.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

I could've said 12 beans being supplied through a 1 bean resistor would have 11 beans come out the other side. It would still be accurate analogy for how resistors work

No, you are totally wrong. This is just not even the slightest bit correct. I asked you questions you can prove the answers to mathematically if you knew what you were writing.

If you had any clue what you were talking about, you would have known that the first post Poochie made was referring to a resistor to ground (SHUNT) to increase the current drawn by the circuit to fool the bulb check. Not a resistance in SERIES.

The bottom line is you are aggressive, rude, and absolutely 100% incorrect in your understanding of rudimentary electronics.

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by chris719

No, you are totally wrong. This is just not even the slightest bit correct. I asked you questions you can prove the answers to mathematically if you knew what you were writing.

If you had any clue what you were talking about, you would have known that the first post Poochie made was referring to a resistor to ground (SHUNT) to increase the current drawn by the circuit to fool the bulb check. Not a resistance in SERIES.

The bottom line is you are aggressive, rude, and absolutely 100% incorrect in your understanding of rudimentary electronics.

Lol, you asked me zero questions. Go back and read what you wrote. You also explicit posted links showing that I was correct and I had to go out of my way to bring up Ohm's Law for you. Telling someone they are wrong is not an argument. It doesn't prove you're right in the least. This is consistently your strategy. And you double down on it when I present to you facts and explanations that prove otherwise.

And you are doubling down on the resistor claim I made, while agreeing with me that a resistor is an incorrect and dangerous solution. Your picking a completely irrelevant part of my position and bring it up over and over again to discredit me. You're appealing to the wrong part of the argument, when the conclusion is agreed upon. You're blatantly nitpicking in an attempt to discredit me.

And I'm the aggresor and the rude one here? Go back and your your very first mf sentence you made to me...

"you should not post on electronics when you don't even have a high school level understanding of it. I'm not saying Poochie does either, just that this is hilariously incorrect."

You are the fucking aggressor and the rude one.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Lol, you asked me zero questions. Go back and read what you wrote. You also explicit posted links showing that I was correct and I had to go out of my way to bring up Ohm's Law for you. Telling someone they are wrong is not an argument. It doesn't prove you're right in the least. This is consistently your strategy. And you double down on it when I present to you facts and explanations that prove otherwise.

And you are doubling down on the resistor claim I made, while agreeing with me that a resistor is an incorrect and dangerous solution. Your picking a completely irrelevant part of my position and bring it up over and over again to discredit me. You're appealing to the wrong part of the argument, when the conclusion is agreed upon. You're blatantly nitpicking in an attempt to discredit me.

And I'm the aggresor and the rude one here? Go back and your your very first mf sentence you made to me...

"you should not post on electronics when you don't even have a high school level understanding of it. I'm not saying Poochie does either, just that this is hilariously incorrect."

You are the fucking aggressor and the rude one.

You don't understand Ohm's law, I am sorry. Everything you have said is factually incorrect. I don't know what more to say. Welcome to ignore.

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

You are the fucking aggressor and the rude one.

No, I am not the one cursing and spreading misinformation.

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by chris719

You don't understand Ohm's law, I am sorry. Everything you have said is factually incorrect. I don't know what more to say. Welcome to ignore.



No, I am not the one cursing and spreading misinformation.

No, you're the one gaslighting me. Saying that you asked me questions when you did not. Pretending like you've been acting civil, when you've been a jerk since the very first sentence you spoke to me. And saying that I don't understand Ohm's law, yet cannot pick out a single thing I do not understand about it. Instead attack me for using watts in an analogy I made to help Poochie understand, yet the core of the analogy is correct. And every single argument you made to try to prove I'm wrong is "That's not right, you're wrong". Which isn't an argument.

And I'm allowed to curse when you're literally sitting here gas lighting me and accusing me of shit that never happened and taking literally everything I said out of context to prove a point. It pisses me the fuck off, dude.

Be a human, have an actual conversation. Don't resort to childish tactics because you want to win an argument.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Be a human, have an actual conversation. Don't resort to childish tactics because you want to win an argument.

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

All it does it limit power going through it. For example, if you have 12w going into a 1w resistor, you will have 11w leaving it...

This is NOT TRUE. Not in watts, volts, amps, or "beans". The unit of resistance is the OHM. The core of your analogy is not correct.

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

But let's say you add a resistor into the circuit. Well, for example purposes, lets say the car provides 12v to the bulb, and you add a 1v resistor so the bulb only receives 11v.

There is NO SUCH THING as a 1V resistor.

Your analogies are just plain WRONG. Work it out on paper please and post it if you think you are somehow correct.

Have a good day, please do not skip your medication in the future.