[bmwv]

Originally Posted by 18EM2

Good to hear (pun intended).
What do you think makes the biggest difference?

I can’t tell. I had the stuff in the front, so i just added the rest.

[bmwv]

Does anybody know where are these located on the car
SOUND INSULATION, B-PILLAR 51487336928

SOUND INSULATION, BULKHEAD, A-PILLAR 51487286078

[MSurge]

Originally Posted by BMWKLR

Anyone know where the sound deadening material is being removed from the on the M2 in comparison to the M235. I see there is some in my trunk on the top deck and wonder where else will it be taken from. I would like to add it back in if possible. This is up there on the intelligence level with removing the oil dipstick and space to store a spare.

Best to keep your m235i. M2 owners want LESS sound deadening, not more! And the spare adds weight, so we do NOT want the spare.
In 25 years of driving I have NEVER had a flat tire. You need a spare as much as you need a lightning rod.

[bobert]

Originally Posted by MSurge

Best to keep your m235i. M2 owners want LESS sound deadening, not more! And the spare adds weight, so we do NOT want the spare.
In 25 years of driving I have NEVER had a flat tire. You need a spare as much as you need a lightning rod.

Speak for yourself about not wanting a spare - you've been very lucky not to have a flat tire before. Your last sentence there is nothing more than bad advice.

[voyagergab]

Originally Posted by MSurge

Best to keep your m235i. M2 owners want LESS sound deadening, not more! And the spare adds weight, so we do NOT want the spare.
In 25 years of driving I have NEVER had a flat tire. You need a spare as much as you need a lightning rod.

You must be incredibly lucky then.
Doesn't speak for everyone though.

[randyt]

Originally Posted by bobert

Speak for yourself about not wanting a spare - you've been very lucky not to have a flat tire before. Your last sentence there is nothing more than bad advice.

Same on the spare. I went through three run flats in 2 years on my 1 series.

As far as the sound levels of the M2 go, I certainly didn't find it as loud as I would have thought it would be from this thread. Certainly not as quiet as a 7 series, but that isn't what it is.

[PAC]

Originally Posted by GregoryK

Back insulation done! You have to detach all the wiring. Then slid the insulation under and clip it back. Took about 4 hours total. I wanted to do it right. Also it was snowing for some of it!

As I said in one of my previous posts the Dynamat over those holes will kill a lot of high frequency noise from the rear. The proper part would likely do a better job as it is more ridged.

Is it 100% necessary to remove the rear seats to accomplish the placing the material in the trunk that would just cover the wheel cut outs? For less than $100 I could see myself doing this in like a month.

[18EM2]

I’m thinking of removing the side of the seats that is directly over the wheel where the hole is and putting insulation there. Then doing the trunk side of the wheel hump as well. Do you think that would do much by itself?

[GregoryK]

Removing the seats sounds worse than it actually is.....like most things. Take them out and put them back in 10 minutes. You do not need to remove them to do the back insulation though there is some overlap

[mjsaville]

Originally Posted by 18EM2

Good to hear (pun intended).
What do you think makes the biggest difference?

I've done the insulation under the bonnet / hood, very quick to do and the front of the car is noticeably quieter...

MJ

[18EM2]

Would you say it reduces road noise or engine noise?

[S1monQc]

Originally Posted by 18EM2

Would you say it reduces road noise or engine noise?

X2

[mjsaville]

Originally Posted by S1monQc

X2

Engine noise, particularly when the DCT doesn't auto upshift until 3,000rpm, Probably helps keep the engine warmer for longer in the Winter too.

MJ

[mjsaville]

Originally Posted by GregoryK

Removing the seats sounds worse than it actually is.....like most things. Take them out and put them back in 10 minutes. You do not need to remove them to do the back insulation though there is some overlap

Is it better taking the rear seat out via the boot or via the front doors?

MJ

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by mjsaville

Is it better taking the rear seat out via the boot or via the front doors?

MJ

Front doors... It's really not as difficult as you think.

[silverado]

For those who installed only the under-the-hood insulation and the door seals, since it quiets the front of the car, does it make the noise seem concentrated behind you? These do seem like easy mods and I'm tempted to do them, but I worry about moving from all around noise to focused noise from the back, which could be annoying in its own way or more annoying. I worry that it needs to be an all or nothing thing: either do what GregoryK did (which is quite impressive!) or don't do anything at all.

[S1monQc]

Originally Posted by silverado

For those who installed only the under-the-hood insulation and the door seals, since it quiets the front of the car, does it make the noise seem concentrated behind you? These do seem like easy mods and I'm tempted to do them, but I worry about moving from all around noise to focused noise from the back, which could be annoying in its own way or more annoying. I worry that it needs to be an all or nothing thing: either do what GregoryK did (which is quite impressive!) or don't do anything at all.

I would also like to know. I myself would like to tone down the road noise at the front, but not the engine/exhaust sound... I have the fender seals on order and tempted to do the hood insulation, but I do not want to reduce the engine sounds!

[GregoryK]

Originally Posted by mjsaville

Is it better taking the rear seat out via the boot or via the front doors?

MJ

Front doors only. It slides out of the center bracket once the sides brackets are unbolted. I'm in Canada so one seat is smaller and therefore easier to remove.

[mjsaville]

Originally Posted by GregoryK

Front doors only. It slides out of the center bracket once the sides brackets are unbolted. I'm in Canada so one seat is smaller and therefore easier to remove.

thanks Gregory, Yup - I was forgetting my rear seat is split also. The added benefit is that will also help with weight and getting them out of the car.

Very tempted by this mod now.

thanks again....
MJ

[voyagergab]

Originally Posted by GregoryK

Front doors only. It slides out of the center bracket once the sides brackets are unbolted. I'm in Canada so one seat is smaller and therefore easier to remove.

Does the rear seat cushion and backrest come out as a single unit. ?
Or do you disconnect them first?

[voyagergab]

Hi GregoryK

I'm working my way toward the rear side trim and I don't understand how to remove the C-pillar covers.

The instruction below talks about clips (2) but none are exposed.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...sts/1VnXwsigxh

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by voyagergab

I'm working my way toward the rear side trim and I don't understand how to remove the C-pillar covers.

The instruction below talks about clips (2) but none are exposed.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...sts/1VnXwsigxh

I've removed these a few times.... Pull the piece off at the top first, then slide it upwards towards the headlining.

All three of the clips (two white, one metal) will slide down in the trim piece, and might actually stay in the metal bracket, but that's how you get it off.

You might want to buy a few additional white clips because they're more fragile than the metal ones. I've taken my trim off maybe 5 or 6 times now, and broken 2 clips in that time.