02-25-2020, 01:00 PM | #1 |
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I'm considering a trailer to transport my car to HPDEs. Looking at a 17'-6" long Featherlite. Looks long enough and wide enough. Anyone see any reason to go to the 20'-long model?
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02-25-2020, 01:25 PM | #2 |
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My preference is for the 20' but depends on what all you want to store on the trailer. Either size can support a tire rack (very nice to have) - but with the 20' you have the room to put lockable storage underneath the tires instead of needing that room for the car. That is very nice to have - being able to store away a jack, tools, fluids, etc on the trailer is very convenient. The extra length & weigh are negligible unless you are right there at max capacity.
If you have no interest in storing tires, tools, etc on the trailer then the 17.5' will definitely work.
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Daytona_550463.50 |
02-26-2020, 09:39 AM | #3 |
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Go with the 20'. You can ALWAYS use the extra space and the weight between the two is negligible.
I'd much rather have an extra foot or too of possibly needed space instead of trying to figure out where I'm putting stuff because I don't have enough trailer.
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02-28-2020, 07:50 AM | #5 | |
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243Racing1447.50 Daytona_550463.50 |
02-28-2020, 09:08 AM | #6 |
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My first trailer use was a 16' open car hauler. Upgraded to 20' open for more space to carry 'stuff'. Then upgraded from that to a 24' enclosed car hauler. Loved that trailer and kept it for 10 years. Upgraded last year to a 34' enclosed car hauler and couldn't be happier with the addl space it provides.
My suggestion is to always get the largest trailer you can afford and safely/comfortably tow. In my experience this will save you from wanting to upgrade a short time later. Put another way, you never hear anyone say 'man I wish I'd gotten a smaller trailer that can carry less stuff' |
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Daytona_550463.50 K-Fab116.00 |
02-28-2020, 07:16 PM | #7 |
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Thanks for the comments. My plans have been shaken up a bit. My "tow vehicle" is my wife's Sequoia , but hearing about my plans to get a trailer, she's put me on notice that she wants to move to a "non-truck" vehicle next year! So now wondering if worthwhile to buy a used trailer for a year or so. Also wondering if I could make a u-haul trailer rental work for a couple of events this year (saw a guy with one of them at a recent track day but that seemed like a pita).
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03-12-2020, 10:35 AM | #8 | |
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I was able to load a 2017 R8 V10 Plus without issue.
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Daytona_550463.50 |
03-14-2020, 11:49 AM | #9 |
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Doing a dry run with a U-Haul trailer today. Loaded the M2C just fine but can't find a good place to tie the emergency chain on the front end. Because of the underbody cover, I only see the anti sway bar and aluminum suspension arms (both no-no's). Any ideas?
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03-18-2020, 10:45 PM | #10 |
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Is there a max speed on the UHaul trailer? They used to have stickers saying not to exceed 55 mph. That'd be a deal breaker..... if I ever heeded a sticker.
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03-30-2020, 12:09 PM | #11 |
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Is there a reason you want to trailer your M2C? I drive will all my tools and tires in the car to every event no problem. Tires in tire back fit perfectly standing up on the back row, leaving the trunk for toolbox, helmet, jack, chair, overnight bag etc.. I don't think it's worth to trailer the car around.
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03-30-2020, 01:05 PM | #13 | |
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03-31-2020, 08:05 AM | #14 | |
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Having said that, I can understand the desire to trailer to long range destinations. I'd love to try VIR, Summit, NH, etc. but that's a pretty long trip from NYC/CT. Also looking at buying a trailer or renting from Uhaul, assuming the season picks up at some point. |
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03-31-2020, 05:52 PM | #15 | ||
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04-02-2020, 02:53 AM | #16 |
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They still have those stickers on there, not saying it was smart but I never heeded the warning. Usually pull my E46 on a Uhaul trailer and regularly go 75 mph without issue (once again not saying it was smart, just a data point).
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04-03-2020, 11:22 AM | #17 | |
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I've replaced the fronts once and have the original rears (I track with all nannies off so no stability support engaging the rears). Brake pads are another story.... I keep my rotors until the micro cracks develop into pretty obvious and severe cracks. But not to the point that the cracks start connecting to themselves or the outside edges. I think my custom home-built cooling ducts have helped somewhat, but before I had these the brakes would run really hot. Calipers turned a dark green by the end of the first year and I would occasionally get cracked pads, which was frustrating - especially when a brand new pad cracked on the second day. PS - I suggest you use FCP Euro for your brake rotor needs as they offer a lifetime warranty on these parts and stock OEM BMW rotors. I only wish they also stocked PFC 08s |
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Daytona_550463.50 |
07-13-2020, 08:31 PM | #18 |
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Thought I would post an update for anyone considering renting a U-Haul trailer for out-of-town track weekends. I rented one for an event at Sebring in late June. Seven hours total drive time. Absolutely no issues pulling it with my Sequoia and the rig felt pretty stable at highway speeds. I used the tire wrap straps (provided with the trailer) on the front, and a pair of thru-the-wheel Mac's straps attached to D-rings on the rear of the trailer. Easy to load and unload (look for U-Haul vid on YouTube on how to load a low profile car).
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01-12-2022, 11:06 PM | #19 |
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I plan on using U-Haul trailer for my m2 for the track this year. Glad I found this thread, so it sounds like there was no where to loop the safety chain under the front and instead you used Mac’s straps?
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01-13-2022, 06:43 AM | #20 |
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Tire straps that come with the trailer go on the front. The chain that comes with the trailer for the rear is left unused. I used Mac's "axle" wraps around the rear wheels. Be sure to get the longer axle wraps (I think 4ft). The shorter ones are not long enough to wrap thru the wide rear wheels.
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01-14-2022, 02:01 PM | #21 | |
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01-15-2022, 09:32 AM | #22 | |
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For anything local, I still plan to drive it to and fro.. Nothing beats the feeling of heading out at the crack of dawn for a day thrashing! |
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