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      03-30-2018, 11:22 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferraris View Post
Thanks for the instructions however I could not get the wire in sufficiently far enough to make the connection, it's really tight, I'll try the splicing method I think.
Try solid copper wire instead of the stranded stuff, which doesn't have enough sense to stay stranded when you try to jam it into a tight hole.
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      03-31-2018, 06:10 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spa2k View Post
Try solid copper wire instead of the stranded stuff, which doesn't have enough sense to stay stranded when you try to jam it into a tight hole.
Yeah this would certainly help.

Would be even easier if a spare plug could be bought and put the link in this.
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      03-31-2018, 07:14 AM   #25
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I wonder if Lawson Products or Littelfuse make anything that would make this project easier.
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      04-01-2018, 10:15 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spa2k View Post
Try solid copper wire instead of the stranded stuff, which doesn't have enough sense to stay stranded when you try to jam it into a tight hole.
I just chopped the power supply cable going to my tv decoder

As long as it's conductive it should work
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      04-01-2018, 10:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lopm2 View Post
I just chopped the power supply cable going to my tv decoder

As long as it's conductive it should work
That's true. Whatever's handy, right? I've done that a zillion times.

The problem is small diameter, unshielded, stranded wire tends to separate, leaving enough space for arcs and sparks. That's why you rarely see it used in automotive applications anymore, unless there's a fitting like a spade or a lug on the end of the wire - or the wire is very large, like the one that runs to the starter.

I'm anxious to see your finished project.
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      04-02-2018, 10:02 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spa2k View Post
That's true. Whatever's handy, right? I've done that a zillion times.

The problem is small diameter, unshielded, stranded wire tends to separate, leaving enough space for arcs and sparks. That's why you rarely see it used in automotive applications anymore, unless there's a fitting like a spade or a lug on the end of the wire - or the wire is very large, like the one that runs to the starter.

I'm anxious to see your finished project.
To be honest I've left the cable installed raw like in the original pictures and it's been like half a year and it still works

Not really an electrician but really doubt you will see sparks for a basic bypass
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      04-02-2018, 10:20 AM   #29
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I guess that length of time without problems is a pretty good sign that it works.

There is a mini circuit breaker that takes up the same space as the standard fuse, with a tiny reset button on the top. It stays in the open position until you push the reset button. Techs use them to diagnose circuit faults. It might be perfect for this use.

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/au...t_breakers.pdf
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      05-06-2018, 01:19 PM   #30
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Is there any rrason why I shouldn't just use a couple of scotch locks to connect the two wires?

Update: I was very brave and connected the wires! Seems to be fine.
Thanks.

Last edited by ferraris; 05-07-2018 at 05:55 AM..
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      06-22-2018, 05:48 PM   #31
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i got the newer LCI version of the m2 a while ago, installed the m performance exhaust which has been working perfectly until a month ago.

the red button (pimple) is located inside the car above the hood opener on the passenger side which meant i didnt have to open my trunk every time i want to press it.

but recently the red button is acting weird, i press it and it doesnt light up (i cant use the remote), or it lights up but not bright red (remote works fine).

any help?

Last edited by TeddySfeir; 06-22-2018 at 06:17 PM..
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      07-27-2018, 09:28 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spa2k View Post

The problem is small diameter, unshielded, stranded wire tends to separate, leaving enough space for arcs and sparks.
Just tin the ends with a little solder. Problem solved.
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      07-27-2018, 09:29 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spa2k View Post
Try solid copper wire instead of the stranded stuff, which doesn't have enough sense to stay stranded when you try to jam it into a tight hole.
See above.
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      07-27-2018, 02:08 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cecaa850 View Post
See above.
Been 1 year now and it still works

If you're on a lease, soldering it might annoy BMW when you return the car
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      09-28-2018, 02:06 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
i got the newer LCI version of the m2 a while ago, installed the m performance exhaust which has been working perfectly until a month ago.

the red button (pimple) is located inside the car above the hood opener on the passenger side which meant i didnt have to open my trunk every time i want to press it.

but recently the red button is acting weird, i press it and it doesnt light up (i cant use the remote), or it lights up but not bright red (remote works fine).

any help?
Any help?
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      09-28-2018, 07:04 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathObeaN View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
i got the newer LCI version of the m2 a while ago, installed the m performance exhaust which has been working perfectly until a month ago.

the red button (pimple) is located inside the car above the hood opener on the passenger side which meant i didnt have to open my trunk every time i want to press it.

but recently the red button is acting weird, i press it and it doesnt light up (i cant use the remote), or it lights up but not bright red (remote works fine).

any help?
Any help?
Check the exhaust fuse hasn't come loose:
Checked the fuse its not loose

Any other suggestion?
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      09-28-2018, 08:42 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathObeaN View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by NathObeaN View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
i got the newer LCI version of the m2 a while ago, installed the m performance exhaust which has been working perfectly until a month ago.

the red button (pimple) is located inside the car above the hood opener on the passenger side which meant i didnt have to open my trunk every time i want to press it.

but recently the red button is acting weird, i press it and it doesnt light up (i cant use the remote), or it lights up but not bright red (remote works fine).

any help?
Any help?
Check the exhaust fuse hasn't come loose:
Checked the fuse its not loose

Any other suggestion?
Not sure, as far as I know the exhaust wiring isn't designed to reach the passenger footwell so if you installed it there, I'm assuming you extended the cable? Are you sure there isn't a break somewhere along the line and something has separated over time, especially where you've 'modified' it?
The problem is that is the dealer who installed it and they are not knowing whats the problem
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      09-28-2018, 02:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathObeaN View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by NathObeaN View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by NathObeaN View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddySfeir View Post
i got the newer LCI version of the m2 a while ago, installed the m performance exhaust which has been working perfectly until a month ago.

the red button (pimple) is located inside the car above the hood opener on the passenger side which meant i didnt have to open my trunk every time i want to press it.

but recently the red button is acting weird, i press it and it doesnt light up (i cant use the remote), or it lights up but not bright red (remote works fine).

any help?
Any help?
Check the exhaust fuse hasn't come loose:
Checked the fuse its not loose

Any other suggestion?
Not sure, as far as I know the exhaust wiring isn't designed to reach the passenger footwell so if you installed it there, I'm assuming you extended the cable? Are you sure there isn't a break somewhere along the line and something has separated over time, especially where you've 'modified' it?
The problem is that is the dealer who installed it and they are not knowing whats the problem
Hmmm... surely if installed it then it should come with a parts and labour warranty and they are responsible for fixing it? If they can't figure out the issue, they should rip and replace. As far as I have seen, the installation instructions direct the installer to put the red dimple button in the boot. If they've done different, they're surely liable?

I was told by my garage that installing the button in the footwell wasn't possible due to the cables not being long enough (they could be wrong though), so would be interested to know what they did.
I kept turning the main switch in the boot on and off while trying to push the red button and when it lit up i opened the valves and removed the fuse cutting off power and that left the valves open even if i fully turn off the car then i returned everything to normal and now its working fine.
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      10-31-2018, 10:58 AM   #39
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Thank you! No more opening the boot, every time I drive the car!
Sorry for the dumb question, but are there any risk of sparks?
A small bit of the wire I used on both sides are visible, because I couldn't push them further in. I secured it with black tape according to the pictures and everything works.
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      11-14-2019, 10:55 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dav3 View Post
If you're looking for a way to permanently keep 'On' the obnoxious Red Pimple on to the New M-Performance Exhaust, this DIY will help.

Level of difficulty: Easy

Time required: 5-30 Minutes

Tools Required:

- Flathead Screwdriver/Fingernails

- 4-6 cm of wire, preferably a thin one

- Black Tape

Special thanks to SimNugget for providing detailed information on how to do this!

Detailed guide with pictures below.


Step 1

Remove plastic retainer clips circled in yellow with fingernails/flathead screwdriver and pull trunk fabric until you have access to the relevant wires








Step 2

Switch off MPE Exhaust Module



Step 3

Unplug the Red/Black Cable from the multi-coloured one




Step 4

Craft a 4-6cm wire and bend it in a U-shape



Step 5

Now Insert both ends of the wire respectively in each angle where the black wires lie (Where the blue circles lie in the shitty paint diagram)



It should look something like this



Step 6

Switch on MPE module and test the bypass. If it is not working you must thin out the wiring and push it deeper in the hole

Step 7

Secure the cables in whichever way you prefer. I’m temporarily using Black Tape.



Step 8

Tug cable back in & put trim back together

Step 9

Done! Button will automatically turn on and off with ignition.

Hi there. Do you mind sending the pics again or maybe privately messaging me with the pics. I can’t seem to view all
Thank you!
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      12-17-2022, 12:42 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTayob View Post
Hi there. Do you mind sending the pics again or maybe privately messaging me with the pics. I can’t seem to view all
Thank you!
+ pls or if anyone has a link to a better guide?
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      12-30-2022, 09:57 AM   #42
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+ pls or if anyone has a link to a better guide?
Maybe this is helpful for you:
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