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      05-27-2020, 09:40 AM   #1
ecitizen
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Lightweight front lip install?

Anyone install the lightweight front lip on their own without a lift? I have one coming and trying to decide if I give it a go with ramps on the front wheels. Looks straightforward to install but welcome DIY experiences.
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      05-27-2020, 10:44 AM   #2
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I just installed my M Performance front lip and I had to get the front wheels on ramps otherwise I didn’t have enough clearance to drill the screws in.
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      05-27-2020, 06:08 PM   #3
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Very easy to do without lifting the car, you don't need much room.

I would suggest using well nuts instead of the provided jack nuts. Two benefits - rubber doesn't rust. The lip on the well nut will act as a spacer to avoid upwards angling of the spoiler.
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      05-28-2020, 01:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_lab_rat View Post
Very easy to do without lifting the car, you don't need much room.

I would suggest using well nuts instead of the provided jack nuts. Two benefits - rubber doesn't rust. The lip on the well nut will act as a spacer to avoid upwards angling of the spoiler.
Can you show me a pic of a well nut? Not familiar with that.
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      05-28-2020, 08:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_lab_rat View Post
Very easy to do without lifting the car, you don't need much room.

I would suggest using well nuts instead of the provided jack nuts. Two benefits - rubber doesn't rust. The lip on the well nut will act as a spacer to avoid upwards angling of the spoiler.
Thanks for the tip as about to install my lightweight splitter. Did you use well nuts?
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      05-28-2020, 09:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecitizen View Post
Can you show me a pic of a well nut? Not familiar with that.
https://www.amazon.ca/Wellnuts-Motor...016JADPTW?th=1 (the ones I got have a bigger lip, I went for imperial size 1/4inch 20 thread)

The brass thread is only at the tip so as you tighten the bolt the rubber will expand. Motorcycle guys use them for windshields, this forum page shows a diagram of how they work - https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...move-help.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by SIE_M2 View Post
Thanks for the tip as about to install my lightweight splitter. Did you use well nuts?
Not at first, I used the supplied jack nuts but one of them didn't grab properly and came out just few months later when I had to temporarily remove the splitter. So I replaced just that one with a well nut but I liked how it worked and also that it fixed the angle issue. So I replaced all of them.

Last edited by mr_lab_rat; 05-28-2020 at 09:32 AM..
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      05-28-2020, 10:02 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_lab_rat View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecitizen View Post
Can you show me a pic of a well nut? Not familiar with that.
https://www.amazon.ca/Wellnuts-Motor...016JADPTW?th=1 (the ones I got have a bigger lip, I went for imperial size 1/4inch 20 thread)

The brass thread is only at the tip so as you tighten the bolt the rubber will expand. Motorcycle guys use them for windshields, this forum page shows a diagram of how they work - https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...move-help.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by SIE_M2 View Post
Thanks for the tip as about to install my lightweight splitter. Did you use well nuts?
Not at first, I used the supplied jack nuts but one of them didn't grab properly and came out just few months later when I had to temporarily remove the splitter. So I replaced just that one with a well nut but I liked how it worked and also that it fixed the angle issue. So I replaced all of them.
Similar concept with a rivet but theoretically doesn't have as high of a load bearing strength. Should be enough tho but I wonder how long the rubber can last before it degrades
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      05-28-2020, 10:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nioh_lbbm2 View Post
Similar concept with a rivet but theoretically doesn't have as high of a load bearing strength. Should be enough tho but I wonder how long the rubber can last before it degrades
True, the metal jack nut can theoretically hold a bit more. But ... it has sharp edges so it can still rip through the hole. As far as longevity, looking at the 9 month old jack nuts that came out I'm willing to bet the metal will rust before the rubber degrades.
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      05-28-2020, 10:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_lab_rat View Post
True, the metal jack nut can theoretically hold a bit more. But ... it has sharp edges so it can still rip through the hole. As far as longevity, looking at the 9 month old jack nuts that came out I'm willing to bet the metal will rust before the rubber degrades.
I wonder if you were to use a nylon/rubber washer between the lip and jack nuts it would have the same effect. Did you have to purchase extended hardware when using the well nuts?

I'm looking at installing mine in a few weeks after the ppf goes back on the bumper, I looked into well nuts and they seem almost impossible to get here in Australia.

Weird thing I noticed also that there are three 35mm fixings for the lip and only 1 goes into the central piece along with a 25mm, so I'm not sure where the other two extended screws are to go.
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      05-28-2020, 11:55 PM   #10
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I've done a lightweight on ramps before (F80) and just did my M2 lip on ramps. You don't need a lift.

For my current lip it came with stainless bolts (10mm head) and nyloc nuts for the center section. Self tapping screws and 3m tape everywhere else and overall is holding good.
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      05-29-2020, 02:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke Silver View Post
I wonder if you were to use a nylon/rubber washer between the lip and jack nuts it would have the same effect. Did you have to purchase extended hardware when using the well nuts?

I'm looking at installing mine in a few weeks after the ppf goes back on the bumper, I looked into well nuts and they seem almost impossible to get here in Australia.

Weird thing I noticed also that there are three 35mm fixings for the lip and only 1 goes into the central piece along with a 25mm, so I'm not sure where the other two extended screws are to go.
I noticed this too. I can only surmise that the other two 35mm fixings go into opposite sides of the splitter where the jack nuts have been inserted.
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      05-29-2020, 02:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_lab_rat View Post
https://www.amazon.ca/Wellnuts-Motor...016JADPTW?th=1 (the ones I got have a bigger lip, I went for imperial size 1/4inch 20 thread)

The brass thread is only at the tip so as you tighten the bolt the rubber will expand. Motorcycle guys use them for windshields, this forum page shows a diagram of how they work - https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...move-help.html



Not at first, I used the supplied jack nuts but one of them didn't grab properly and came out just few months later when I had to temporarily remove the splitter. So I replaced just that one with a well nut but I liked how it worked and also that it fixed the angle issue. So I replaced all of them.

Did you use the rubber spaced provided when you converted to well nuts?
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      05-29-2020, 04:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_lab_rat View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nioh_lbbm2 View Post
Similar concept with a rivet but theoretically doesn't have as high of a load bearing strength. Should be enough tho but I wonder how long the rubber can last before it degrades
True, the metal jack nut can theoretically hold a bit more. But ... it has sharp edges so it can still rip through the hole. As far as longevity, looking at the 9 month old jack nuts that came out I'm willing to bet the metal will rust before the rubber degrades.
There are blind rivets designed specifically for plastics though which have broad flanges. These should be better than a rubber well nut:


https://www.mcmaster.com/blind-rivet...nd-composites/
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      05-29-2020, 09:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke Silver View Post
I wonder if you were to use a nylon/rubber washer between the lip and jack nuts it would have the same effect. Did you have to purchase extended hardware when using the well nuts?
Yes, a washer would help with the lip angle. And yes, I needed to get longer bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SIE_M2 View Post
Did you use the rubber spaced provided when you converted to well nuts?
My lip didn't come with any spacers other than the centre piece.
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      05-29-2020, 01:14 PM   #15
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Can someone post a pic of these well nuts or washers installed? Still trying to understand if I should go this route or just what it comes with.

Last edited by ecitizen; 05-29-2020 at 01:42 PM..
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      05-30-2020, 10:26 AM   #16
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Self tapping screws have worked just fine for me
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      06-03-2020, 10:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McLaren720s View Post
Self tapping screws have worked just fine for me
The problem with that is that you can't remove and reinstall it too many times before the holes wear out. And you need to remove the lip if you want to access the engine from the bottom.

I actually had to take the lip off just to get wheel alignment because it was blocking the laser beam of the alignment machine.

Sorry, I was gonna take a picture of the lip installed with well nuts but forgot. I'll try to get to it tomorrow.
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      06-09-2020, 12:26 AM   #18
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Install questions??

All,

I went to install the front lip, and have a few quick questions.

1) Just to confirm, I need to drill 6 new holes--2 on each outer edge and the 2 in the middle for the spacer, correct? For the outer edge holes, do I drill the 2 closest to the edge of the bumper circled in black or the ones in the rear, circled in red? The ones in front seem so close to the edge of the bumper. What are the 2 extra ones in the rear for?



2) There are a couple of rivets along the edge where the bumper meats the plastic guard on the corners. Do I just remove those or leave them on? They are in between the screws that go in the fasteners provided by Lightweight.

3) I pulled the plastic off of the lip and I must say the finish isn't very clean, sort of swirly like. Was your like that? I suppose I didn't expect much but it's a bit rough.
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      06-09-2020, 09:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecitizen View Post
All,

I went to install the front lip, and have a few quick questions.

1) Just to confirm, I need to drill 6 new holes--2 on each outer edge and the 2 in the middle for the spacer, correct? For the outer edge holes, do I drill the 2 closest to the edge of the bumper circled in black or the ones in the rear, circled in red? The ones in front seem so close to the edge of the bumper. What are the 2 extra ones in the rear for?



2) There are a couple of rivets along the edge where the bumper meats the plastic guard on the corners. Do I just remove those or leave them on? They are in between the screws that go in the fasteners provided by Lightweight.

3) I pulled the plastic off of the lip and I must say the finish isn't very clean, sort of swirly like. Was your like that? I suppose I didn't expect much but it's a bit rough.
I can't answer this as I haven't tried installing mine yet. But I'm wondering if it's universal with the M2C and it just has different fixing locations.

Will the jack nuts fit in that front holes that you have circled black? I wouldn't have thought there would be much depth in that part of the bumper.
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      06-10-2020, 12:49 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke Silver View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecitizen View Post
All,

I went to install the front lip, and have a few quick questions.

1) Just to confirm, I need to drill 6 new holes--2 on each outer edge and the 2 in the middle for the spacer, correct? For the outer edge holes, do I drill the 2 closest to the edge of the bumper circled in black or the ones in the rear, circled in red? The ones in front seem so close to the edge of the bumper. What are the 2 extra ones in the rear for?



2) There are a couple of rivets along the edge where the bumper meats the plastic guard on the corners. Do I just remove those or leave them on? They are in between the screws that go in the fasteners provided by Lightweight.

3) I pulled the plastic off of the lip and I must say the finish isn't very clean, sort of swirly like. Was your like that? I suppose I didn't expect much but it's a bit rough.
I can't answer this as I haven't tried installing mine yet. But I'm wondering if it's universal with the M2C and it just has different fixing locations.

Will the jack nuts fit in that front holes that you have circled black? I wouldn't have thought there would be much depth in that part of the bumper.
Yes, they go in the front. One stripped out of the hole but all the others did fine so I'm not too worried about the one in the corner that didn't work. It looks so much better with the lip. Install was a pain without a lift and torqued my neck but it's done. It's not difficult just weird angles without a lift. The look is clean and exceeded my expectations.
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      06-10-2020, 08:09 AM   #21
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grabbed this picture from the interwebz for reference...

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      06-10-2020, 11:17 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2PUTT View Post
grabbed this picture from the interwebz for reference...

That's a different model car. The lip and factory screw placements are different for the M2. Thanks for posting though.
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