03-05-2019, 09:21 PM | #199 | ||
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I sincerely doubt there is a slight play built it the system just to mess with us.. Not going to go back and forth on this as we both have our own opinion on this product, I just to play it safe, as you roll the dice... And thanks for opting for the manual, keeping the take rate up, regardless how you choose to use it. |
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03-05-2019, 09:33 PM | #200 | |
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It could definitely be a safety for bubbles, but if that were the case they would need alot more dead space because I've had a badly bled clutch before and you could bottom out the pedal and it still wouldn't disengage. Or more likely they just did this so they didn't have clutch engagement at the bottom of the pedal stroke (which would feel super weird to drive). But most cars have this dead pedal probably because it would be alot of engineering work to figure out how far to make the pedal arm swing based on the pivot point and arm length, and they just made it go as far as possible without hitting the carpet. Dead pedal throws also develop with age as the clutch wears and now you don't have to press the pedal as far to disengage the clutch. So I really doubt this is purposely engineered as all cars have this dead space, some worse than others. Yeah playing it safe is the best way, but we are "all rolling the dice" if we decide to modify the car anyways, so it's all based on risk tolerance. But careful testing and research can mitigate alot of this unforeseen probability, so it is not all left to chance. I wonder if there is a clutch inspection window on these cars, that would be easier to check engagement that way.
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03-06-2019, 07:16 PM | #201 |
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03-06-2019, 09:04 PM | #202 | |
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As you know the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate is bolted to the back of the engine and is still present when the transmission is pulled, what is removed however is the throw out bearing and transmission input shaft which is stuck to the transmission. Methods: 1) clutch inspection window, I'm pretty sure BMWs don't have this but this would have been through easiest method. 2) What I wanted to do is measure the throw out bearing movement as a function of pedal travel to see how far the total range of travel of the throw out bearing is. Then measure the total range if motion the pressure plate tension spring bit (can't remember the proper name) has to move before the clutch can spin freely from the flywheel aka. fully disengaged. Then compare the two distances. If the tolerances are too close I'll try method 3. 3) pull the throw out bearing and clutch hydraulic assembly and try to attach it to the clutch and flywheel assembly without the transmission bell housing. This is probably going to be super difficult if it isn't removable or if the transmission input shaft doesn't pull out. Then I have to some how figure out how to secure it to the clutch and flywheel without play. From there it's just a matter of engaging the clutch and seeing how much dead space in the clutch throw. Idk we will see what happens, but this summer I'm planning to put the car on jack stands and seeing how far the clutch needs to be engaged before the rear wheels stop spinning in first.
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03-10-2019, 03:15 PM | #203 |
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Has anyone has any issues removing the BMS clutch stop after installation? I initially put it in at 2 shims and want to give 3 a try however I can't get the clutch stop back off the car.
I've been pulling pretty hard at it by hand, but wanted to see if there's any tips or tricks here before I take a set of pliers to it and likely snap it in half. |
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03-10-2019, 04:18 PM | #204 | |
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03-10-2019, 06:35 PM | #205 | |
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03-11-2019, 10:32 PM | #207 |
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Lol ikr!
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03-12-2019, 02:15 PM | #208 |
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03-12-2019, 03:49 PM | #209 |
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Yeah but I think he wanted to a shim adjustment (adding or removing shims) that requires pulling out the BMS clutch stop.
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03-16-2019, 11:15 AM | #210 |
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Just installed mine. Literally 30 seconds like someone else said. I have super short legs, and I have to reach with my toe to hit the bottom on the stock clutch stop. I only used 2 shims to start. I'm excited to see if it makes a difference!
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03-21-2019, 03:45 PM | #212 | |
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How many Sims are you using?
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03-26-2019, 10:01 AM | #213 |
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I've driven in many cars throughout my life, and the clutch throw in the M2 is on-par with all of the (stock) cars I've driven. I drove my friend's M3 with this BMS clutch stop and could not tell a difference from my stock M2. You're all nuts.
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06-06-2019, 02:25 AM | #214 | |
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I wouldn't say "we're all nuts" but I would say we are more engaged and keen to small details versus than the average manual transmission driver.
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08-09-2019, 04:21 PM | #215 |
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Drove 7000km with one shim, zero issues. 300km ago switched to two shims, no issues yet.
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03-28-2020, 04:36 PM | #216 |
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Finally installed a BMS clutch stop. I definitely like it better over stock to take out that unnecessary dead zone, but makes exactly zero difference in my driving experience. I never depress the clutch pedal down far enough for it to make any difference other than maybe when at a complete stop.
Still better than stock, super cheap mod, and took me literally 15 seconds to install. I call that a win. |
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10-04-2020, 06:05 PM | #218 |
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Evidently I have zero M2 mechanical skills. I replaced the stock clutch stop easily in my old E92. Tried to do it with my M2 and failed miserably. I stuck my hand inside the flex shield and all I felt was the the clutch pedal and some sort of thin metal bar. Oh and I got what feels like vaseline on my fingers. There's so little room to work with in there. What am I missing?
Side note: I even resorted to removing the two 10mm bolts to lower the panel like someone suggested. The bolts came out easily but the panel didn't budge. I'm losing all around. |
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10-04-2020, 06:30 PM | #219 | |
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If you cannot reach it you'll have to remove the pannel, take those two 10 mm bolts out then move the steering wheel all the way out and up. Stick your hand into the little area below the wheel and above the pannel and push down, that should eject the pannel. Good luck.
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10-04-2020, 06:49 PM | #220 | |
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