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      10-20-2020, 11:00 AM   #1
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DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) issue or hydraulic valve lifters?

Hi gang, I am hoping you can help me identify what the root cause is given symptoms below. Initially I wanted to think it is the hydraulic valve lifters, but I am leaning towards the dual mass flywheel (DMF).

Observed Symptoms:

1. Oftentimes, the first gear is extremely jerky. It does not happen every time, but enough to make me question if I can still drive manual transmission (which I have been doing for close to 30 yrs. now…)
2. Recently, I have started noticing that, while idling at stoplights, the engine is making this weird ticking noise, with a very a steady cadence (tacatacatataca). This noise simply goes away when I clutch in. Please see the quick clip below: the distinct ticking noise goes away around 3sec mark when I clutched in.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/120K...ew?usp=sharing

Car details:
1. 2019 M2C
2. About 5,000 miles
3. 6 speed (obviously)

It seems to me that the two issues are related. So what do you guys think, is this pointing to transmission/DMF failure (excessive play between the 2 DMF halves), engine valve lifters (seems unlikely) or something else completely different?

The car is quite new given the mileage, so I appreciate any input!

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      10-20-2020, 11:33 AM   #2
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To further expand on the 1st gear jerkiness...

...adjusting the clutch travel while feathering the acceleration pedal won't help much. The primary way to mitigate the jerkiness is to shift into 2nd gear as soon as possible.
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      10-20-2020, 06:39 PM   #3
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Anyone can chime in on this? I'm no ASE mechanic, but sort of self-diagnosed my issues down to a failing DMF, and I'll take it to the dealer for sure (warranty should still be in full effect). Further scrutinizing how my car drives, another symptom that may point to a bad DMF is a noticeable (feel and sound) clunck sound upon clutching/shifting gears.

Surprised that no-one else w/ a 6-sp M2C/S55 motor experienced this, so I was looking for validation that I'm the right track...and if I'm right, shocked that the DMF barely lasted 5k miles in my case. I know they are a high wear item, but I thought dual mass flywheels last easily 50-60k miles, even for a high performance ///M car.
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      10-20-2020, 07:54 PM   #4
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Time to visit the dealer

The clutch and flywheel are generally considered relatively stout on these vehicles and given the mileage it seems unlikely the issue would lie there, but it's still a possibility

I suspect something is wrong with the clutch slave cylinder, the clutch fork / release (throwout) bearing or the clutch fork pivot pin

The factory clutch pivot pin is made out of plastic and a known weak point so that's my guess

https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...Pin_p_133.html
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      10-20-2020, 08:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2020M2Competition View Post
Time to visit the dealer

The clutch and flywheel are generally considered relatively stout on these vehicles and given the mileage it seems unlikely the issue would lie there, but it's still a possibility

I suspect something is wrong with the clutch slave cylinder, the clutch fork / release (throwout) bearing or the clutch fork pivot pin

The factory clutch pivot pin is made out of plastic and a known weak point so that's my guess

https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...Pin_p_133.html
Thanks for the input...kind of makes sense what you say, especially since the ticking noise goes away when clutch is engaged.

So I already emailed my Service Advisor, but he is out of town till next week. Will try to get it looked at ASAP.

I guess it's not advisable to drive the car?
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      10-20-2020, 09:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2020M2Competition View Post
Time to visit the dealer

The clutch and flywheel are generally considered relatively stout on these vehicles and given the mileage it seems unlikely the issue would lie there, but it's still a possibility

I suspect something is wrong with the clutch slave cylinder, the clutch fork / release (throwout) bearing or the clutch fork pivot pin

The factory clutch pivot pin is made out of plastic and a known weak point so that's my guess

https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...Pin_p_133.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2020M2Competition View Post
The factory clutch pivot pin is made out of plastic and a known weak point so that's my guess

https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...Pin_p_133.html
Reading the description in the link you sent (cheers for that mate!!) it says...

"When pressing down on the clutch pedal, you could feel a vibration and chattering sound".

In my case, it's kind of the opposite- the chattering sound I hear from inside the cabin at idle is evident UNTIL I engage the clutch...

Nevertheless- I stopped driving the car, garage queen it will become till this gets looked at by the dealer and/or I have a better understanding what causing this.
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      10-20-2020, 09:22 PM   #7
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Ha, I thought I was becoming cray-cray....couldn't be the only BMW owner with seemingly identical issue:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/a...8;d=1519097421

The OP had the clutch and DMF replaced and still didn't fix the issue (unfortunately he never returned to update the forum how he fixed the issue).

Irks me that I have drivability issues this early on in my ownership...granted I'm the 2nd owner so I don't know how well the original owner took care of the car (signs indicate he was decent as he traded it at a Porsche dealer for a Neunfer...)
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      10-20-2020, 09:32 PM   #8
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9 out of 10 times id say this is a throw-out bearing issue, usually caused by sitting stationary at lights etc in gear with clutch engaged for sustained periods instead of putting car into neutral & disengaging clutch. Heat builds up in throw out bearing & the grease becomes thin or non existant which causes the bearing noises.
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      10-21-2020, 09:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TargaM2 View Post
9 out of 10 times id say this is a throw-out bearing issue, usually caused by sitting stationary at lights etc in gear with clutch engaged for sustained periods instead of putting car into neutral & disengaging clutch. Heat builds up in throw out bearing & the grease becomes thin or non existant which causes the bearing noises.
Thanks mate - will definitely take it to the dealer and give them some pointers.

Misery loves company, so I thought I would have gotten "yep, had that same issue, here is what fixed it..."

Was anyone successful in listening to the video I linked? I sort of hoped it would have been a telltale sign
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      10-21-2020, 10:03 AM   #10
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Are you familiar with rollover noise from the transmission? For example, if you replace a DMF with a solid flywheel, then with gearshift in neutral and clutch engaged (clutch pedal all the way out, up, nothing touching it), and the car idling in neutral so transmission input shaft is spinning you get said rollover clatter.

As a DMF wears on some cars you can get that transmission rollover noise as above. Even with a DMF that isn't that old sometimes you get slight rollover noise. If one or more of the springs fails or fatigues in early life, you could get a lot louder rollover noise similar to a very old DMF.
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      10-21-2020, 12:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No_curebimmer View Post
Anyone can chime in on this? I'm no ASE mechanic, but sort of self-diagnosed my issues down to a failing DMF, and I'll take it to the dealer for sure (warranty should still be in full effect). Further scrutinizing how my car drives, another symptom that may point to a bad DMF is a noticeable (feel and sound) clunck sound upon clutching/shifting gears.

Surprised that no-one else w/ a 6-sp M2C/S55 motor experienced this, so I was looking for validation that I'm the right track...and if I'm right, shocked that the DMF barely lasted 5k miles in my case. I know they are a high wear item, but I thought dual mass flywheels last easily 50-60k miles, even for a high performance ///M car.
I've noticed this in my car too. Started at about 10-12k miles. I now have 20k miles. Hasn't worsened but probably should make a dealer visit. Just hate going there.
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      10-21-2020, 03:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
Are you familiar with rollover noise from the transmission? For example, if you replace a DMF with a solid flywheel, then with gearshift in neutral and clutch engaged (clutch pedal all the way out, up, nothing touching it), and the car idling in neutral so transmission input shaft is spinning you get said rollover clatter.

As a DMF wears on some cars you can get that transmission rollover noise as above. Even with a DMF that isn't that old sometimes you get slight rollover noise. If one or more of the springs fails or fatigues in early life, you could get a lot louder rollover noise similar to a very old DMF.
Cheers mate, and all the helpful pointers by other posters...this is starting to make more sense; all signs seem to point to gear box/transmission/clutch issues, but not necessarily specifically down to a failed DMF by itself.

Normally, I like to figure things out and provide an explanation as to why things happen…so until my dealer can get me in, I’ve kept digging into this it. Here is what I have come up with thus far:

1. if one engages the clutch, that means pedal is not pushed in and clutch disk is engaged to the flywheel. If noise is present in this state --> then this might point to a gearbox bearing failure.

2. otherwise, if clutch disengaged, that means the pedal is pushed in and clutch disk is disengaged from the flywheel. If there is a noise at this point, then likely the throw-out bearing might be the problem.

In my case, the noise is evident only when the clutch pedal is not pushed in, stationary and the gear lever in neutral – indicating a falling gearbox bearing. Might be there in other times, but the road noise, engine revving and all might be masking it.
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      10-21-2020, 03:20 PM   #13
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Throw-out bearing or gearbox bearing...either way, the transmission would need to be taken out and fully inspected.

Is it also advisable to replace the clutch as well, while everything is opened up? Luckily my car is still under warranty, so unsure if they'll 'do the bare minimum' or replace all the affected and adjacent parts. Out of pocket though, this will likely be $2-2,500 so glad that it happened now.

Still, such big issues shouldn't happen this early on though...
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      10-21-2020, 04:36 PM   #14
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Greetings my friend. My gearbox is behaving strangely from 450kms (300 ish miles), now i am at around 3000 miles.
When i press in the clutch at 1500-2000 rpm (1-2 shift) i can feel shaking from gearbox and clank clank noise. When i release the clutch at 1500 -2500 rpm ( when clutch engages) again clank clank. When i am in gear, lets say 3rd, and tap accelerator pedal, again i can replicate clanking and shaking.
I can hear ticking on idle, but when i press in the clutch there is no apparent difference like in your video.
Another way i can hear this sound is if i turn off my car without pressing the clutch in, gearbox shakes.

When gearbox is hot , it is more apparent and very frustrating to drive the car, feels like something will fall off under the car.

I have been to my dealer few months ago and they told me that is normal for this car.
But i asked few other MT owners ( Joe Acheilles aswell) and they didn't know what i was talking about.

So i went to the dealer again, and waiting for the answer.

I will try to make a video and post it.
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      10-21-2020, 05:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in München View Post
Greetings my friend. My gearbox is behaving strangely from 450kms (300 ish miles), now i am at around 3000 miles.
When i press in the clutch at 1500-2000 rpm (1-2 shift) i can feel shaking from gearbox and clank clank noise. When i release the clutch at 1500 -2500 rpm ( when clutch engages) again clank clank. When i am in gear, lets say 3rd, and tap accelerator pedal, again i can replicate clanking and shaking.
I can hear ticking on idle, but when i press in the clutch there is no apparent difference like in your video.
Another way i can hear this sound is if i turn off my car without pressing the clutch in, gearbox shakes.

When gearbox is hot , it is more apparent and very frustrating to drive the car, feels like something will fall off under the car.

I have been to my dealer few months ago and they told me that is normal for this car.
But i asked few other MT owners ( Joe Acheilles aswell) and they didn't know what i was talking about.

So i went to the dealer again, and waiting for the answer.

I will try to make a video and post it.
Thanks for chiming in, and sorry to hear that you too are having transmission issues.

Like some of the good pointers in this thread validated, what is happening is that, simply put, something is preventing the clutch to fully engage, so it's likely related to throw-out bearing (aka release bearing), similar to my issue. Your clutch pedal vibrating is another obvious telltale sign. Do you have jerky transmission shifts as well?

This may help you as well, but what I've done is shared some of the info from this thread to Service Advisor. That way, the mechanics are guided to look down the right path, vs simply driving it and finding nothing. I hate when dealerships can't duplicate my issues and return my car unfixed.

My Service Advisor is out till this weekend, so likely they will squeeze me in next week. I will definitely update this thread with whatever findings and fixes they do
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      10-23-2020, 05:28 PM   #16
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Here is my problem on video.

I am going in reverse engaging the clutch and disengaging. CLanking sound is pretty obvious.
This is the best way i could get it on camera , but this way is also in other situations.

https://streamable.com/p7ehwl

Last edited by Lost in München; 10-24-2020 at 03:13 AM..
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      10-23-2020, 05:47 PM   #17
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That definitely is not transmission rollover noise from a failing DMF. Not sure just what it is other than perhaps an internal transmission gear issue perhaps. Sounds horrific.
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      10-24-2020, 11:48 AM   #18
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Granted, I don't have an M2C, but my M235 has a DMF (same design found in the M2/M2C/M3/M4), and it's made those exact sounds at idle and in neutral since about 1,000 miles. That was 4.5 years and 46K miles ago. When I first heard it, I freaked out because my prior car was a 2012 WRX which had notorious issues for killing rod bearings and when I heard this sound, it sounded vaguely like a rod bearing going out. BUT, in the case of my M235, the sound went away when with a bit of throttle and/or pushing the clutch in. The fact that the sound went away with the clutch pushed in was the most obvious indicator that it's the nature of the DMF.

I've noticed my DMF gets a bit noisier when it's warm out/after driving hard. It's also quite loud when pulling into the garage and the sounds bounce off the concrete floor and tight walls. Also, if I creep the car in at a really low rpm and when the clutch somewhat engaged, there's a notable rapid clanking as I pull into the garage assuming I have the windows down or the stereo off.

Again, all of these sounds have been present since March 2016 and never got worse. My M235 is also pushing around 370whp/400wtq and I'm still on the stock clutch and 6MT (same 6MT as yours minus the beefed up 1-2, 2-3 syncros your 6MT has).

As for questioning your manual driving ability's after 30 years of driving, I too feel the SAME EXACT WAY. I'm 46 and have been driving/racing manuals since 1989. When driving normally, I find the clutch catch points and the way it catches to be inconsistent. A smooth take off and 1-2 shift is very difficult to achieve. Prior cars, I could drive them so smoothly that you'd think they were an automatic. The key on the 1-2 shift is to rev out 3,500rpms. Lower rpms shifts result make things less smooth, especially on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift. When driven in anger, I find the 6MT perfect. The problem with the 6MT smoothness in take off and on shifts is mostly due to the clutch delay valve (CDV) in the slave cylinder. You can replace the slave with one from the E-series which doesn't have the CDV. Lots of guys so that on this forum, the 235 forum, and 3/4 series forum.

Long story short, your 6MT and DMF are normal and fine.
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      10-26-2020, 07:36 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XutvJet View Post
Granted, I don't have an M2C, but my M235 has a DMF (same design found in the M2/M2C/M3/M4), and it's made those exact sounds at idle and in neutral since about 1,000 miles. That was 4.5 years and 46K miles ago. When I first heard it, I freaked out because my prior car was a 2012 WRX which had notorious issues for killing rod bearings and when I heard this sound, it sounded vaguely like a rod bearing going out. BUT, in the case of my M235, the sound went away when with a bit of throttle and/or pushing the clutch in. The fact that the sound went away with the clutch pushed in was the most obvious indicator that it's the nature of the DMF.

I've noticed my DMF gets a bit noisier when it's warm out/after driving hard. It's also quite loud when pulling into the garage and the sounds bounce off the concrete floor and tight walls. Also, if I creep the car in at a really low rpm and when the clutch somewhat engaged, there's a notable rapid clanking as I pull into the garage assuming I have the windows down or the stereo off.

Again, all of these sounds have been present since March 2016 and never got worse. My M235 is also pushing around 370whp/400wtq and I'm still on the stock clutch and 6MT (same 6MT as yours minus the beefed up 1-2, 2-3 syncros your 6MT has).

As for questioning your manual driving ability's after 30 years of driving, I too feel the SAME EXACT WAY. I'm 46 and have been driving/racing manuals since 1989. When driving normally, I find the clutch catch points and the way it catches to be inconsistent. A smooth take off and 1-2 shift is very difficult to achieve. Prior cars, I could drive them so smoothly that you'd think they were an automatic. The key on the 1-2 shift is to rev out 3,500rpms. Lower rpms shifts result make things less smooth, especially on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift. When driven in anger, I find the 6MT perfect. The problem with the 6MT smoothness in take off and on shifts is mostly due to the clutch delay valve (CDV) in the slave cylinder. You can replace the slave with one from the E-series which doesn't have the CDV. Lots of guys so that on this forum, the 235 forum, and 3/4 series forum.

Long story short, your 6MT and DMF are normal and fine.
Thanks for your input... just to be sure, I am taking the car to the dealership today.

Will see what they say
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      10-29-2020, 07:26 AM   #20
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Thank you for all the answers.
Update on my problem, dealer decided to replace transmission and possibly DMF.

Now I wait...
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      10-30-2020, 04:32 PM   #21
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Thank you for all the answers.
Update on my problem, dealer decided to replace transmission and possibly DMF.

Now I wait...
Great news that BMW has identified the root cause on your vehicle and is addressing it.

For my case, I dropped off my M2C on Monday @ the dealer. They're looking into this issue and the rather common valvetronic actuator ticking noise when unlocking the car.

I have no updates yet....
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      10-31-2020, 04:36 AM   #22
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Dealer replaced gearbox and everything is the same, they said that they will inspect DMF when gearbox is off the car, and they said DMF is fine...

They said that it is the nature of the car and it is normal.

To have a manual that you always need to think how to drive just to avoid the knocking... come on.

If i could try the manual before buying , there is no way i would have bought one.
I have had much chaper perfomance cars that you could shift by memory and smooth, and drove bunch of porsches ,and there was no clanking and knocking. in this car is hit and miss, very frustrating.

If you add: too long and light clutch pedal, rubbery feeling shifter, CDV, and auto rev match and adding gas in low rpm, experience of driving this car is total crap.

I usally dont like auto gearboxes, but in this case, sorry i didn't buy one .

ULTIMATE DRIVING MACHINE??? COME ON!!

Sorry for the frustrations.

Last edited by Lost in München; 10-31-2020 at 05:06 AM..
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