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View Poll Results: Have your M2C rear indicator units failed?
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      07-25-2020, 03:44 AM   #67
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Just had a quick read through everything. I have a MY21 M2C and haven’t had a fault with the rear turn signals yet (knock on wood).

So the general consensus is turning off the rear warm bulb check will solve the issue since it was originally designed for incandescent bulbs.

It seems obvious to me that coding it out would stop the error from popping up, but does it actually *fix* the rapid flashing on the turn signals?

I think rapid turn signal flashing is a result of:
A) One of the LEDs burnt out
B) Theres a hardware fault e.g. relay, low voltage, grounding

The warm bulb check is just designed to tell you if your bulb is out. While yes, you could get a “fault” because LEDs by design require significantly less energy compared to incandescent bulbs, I find it hard to believe the check would implement a corrective action after it detects a “fault” e.g. reducing power draw to the lights.

I’d be happy to be proven wrong, though. Can anyone confirm, after deactivating the rear warm bulb check, has their rear indicator stopped flashing rapidly?
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      07-25-2020, 10:29 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dooba97 View Post
Just had a quick read through everything. I have a MY21 M2C and haven’t had a fault with the rear turn signals yet (knock on wood).

So the general consensus is turning off the rear warm bulb check will solve the issue since it was originally designed for incandescent bulbs.

It seems obvious to me that coding it out would stop the error from popping up, but does it actually *fix* the rapid flashing on the turn signals?

I think rapid turn signal flashing is a result of:
A) One of the LEDs burnt out
B) Theres a hardware fault e.g. relay, low voltage, grounding

The warm bulb check is just designed to tell you if your bulb is out. While yes, you could get a “fault” because LEDs by design require significantly less energy compared to incandescent bulbs, I find it hard to believe the check would implement a corrective action after it detects a “fault” e.g. reducing power draw to the lights.

I’d be happy to be proven wrong, though. Can anyone confirm, after deactivating the rear warm bulb check, has their rear indicator stopped flashing rapidly?
Confirmed. After coding out, the rapid flashing has stopped.
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      07-25-2020, 09:21 PM   #69
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Recoded with Bimmerlink. A few of the rear lights were set to "bulb" vs "LED". Also disable warm function on a all. Only about 3 were enable including turn signal.
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      08-19-2020, 08:42 AM   #70
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One month with the warm bulb check coded out and no further error messages. I had errors on both sides within the space of a week prior to this. Strangely it came on suddenly after owning the car for 14 months with no problems.
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      08-19-2020, 09:25 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuNguyen View Post
One month with the warm bulb check coded out and no further error messages. I had errors on both sides within the space of a week prior to this. Strangely it came on suddenly after owning the car for 14 months with no problems.
Exactly the same for me on both counts.
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      08-19-2020, 03:35 PM   #72
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Glad to know I'm not the only one here, I've had this pop up a couple of times over the last few weeks and usually it is the left one. A few months ago (or year - lost concept of time these days), it popped up on the right one & while it was in for the recall had mentioned to the service center. They found nothing...
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      08-19-2020, 05:23 PM   #73
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I haven't had a single error since I disabled the warm bulb check. I'm paranoid about my lights now, but no errors...
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      08-20-2020, 04:39 AM   #74
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I have the error code. Haven't tried coding rear bulb to LED yet.
I have some front lights in the FEM set to bulb as well, stock. Is it safe to set everything to LED in the M2C?
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      08-20-2020, 06:41 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kart driver View Post
I have M2C built 08/2018.


Have this issue. The dealer is replacing both rear lights.
I told them it will not work and we better code as explained on this forum. They refused to do so and plan to change both rear lights

The dealer replaced both rear lights.
We’ll see how it goes
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      08-20-2020, 04:57 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blitzyo View Post
I have the error code. Haven't tried coding rear bulb to LED yet.
I have some front lights in the FEM set to bulb as well, stock. Is it safe to set everything to LED in the M2C?

Yes, it's safe.

As I mentioned before in ad nauseam, LEDs draw much less current than filament bulbs, for which the bulb check system was designed for.

Unlike halogen, with has a set shelf-life before it burns out, LEDs will probably outlast the useful duration of the vehicle, so the bulb checks are unnecessary.

Your standard halogen 21W turn signal bulb will draw approximately 1.75 amps of current @ 12V.

LEDs will draw a lot less, like maybe .2 - .5 amps per light.

With the bulb check active, the system is assuming that because a functioning LED is only drawing .5 amps and not 1.75 (for which is its set cutoff), there is a light out, hence hyper-flashing to notify the driver of such. It's really a detecting a false-positive, since the LEDs work fine.

BMW official instructions for all LED taillight retrofit is to remove to the bulb check, to avoid this same exact problem, so I have no idea why they choose to leave it active on the M2C (and X2).

It's one of the most asinine decisions I've seen, next to them choosing to use red color rear turn signals, for the US market, while amber is completely legal and more effective than red.

But hey, I don't try to hurt my head trying to figure out the rhyme behind their reasoning; I'm more about fixing the issue and moving forward.. 🤷🏻
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      08-24-2020, 12:10 AM   #77
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Right Rear tail light replaced at 10-mo., 8K miles. Thought I could just open up the back and replace a bulb. The Dealer advised that it's LED and the entire unit has to be replaced. Same issue as described by others, a fast blinking tail light accompanied by an illuminated warning indicator message at dash.
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      08-26-2020, 03:23 AM   #78
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Ive got some reading to catch up on here still. But a quick update: i've now officially had both the left and right units replaced at the dealership as both failed within weeks of each other. All systems appear to be working fine now but I'm expecting that this will just be a matter of time before the problems resurface. Ive got one more year left on warranty - will see how things develop. If this is a known and repeatable issue due to defective design, i can't see how they couldn't not honour replacements outside of warranty.
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      08-26-2020, 05:12 PM   #79
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So I've read the thread and want to make sure I understand:


the issue: an error message appears and the indicator flashes rapidly

if you don't do the fix, the result you have to live with this issue arising intermittently

I am tempted to just live with it...any drawbacks to that?
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      08-27-2020, 08:35 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baege View Post
So I've read the thread and want to make sure I understand:


the issue: an error message appears and the indicator flashes rapidly

if you don't do the fix, the result you have to live with this issue arising intermittently

I am tempted to just live with it...any drawbacks to that?
Yeah, it's a safety hazard...there rear signal on mine would dim during rapid flash and potentially not be seen by drivers behind me when signaling to change lanes.
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      08-27-2020, 09:24 AM   #81
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So, did anyone have this issue reoccur after disabling the warm monitoring?
If that’s the remedy, why not just code it off and be done with it?
Haven’t had this issue yet (knock on wood), but will code those off as soon as I see the warning pop up.
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      08-29-2020, 02:42 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
There is no official fix for this issue, decoding the bulb checks is the only viable solution and it remaining active is the actual cause of this error.

The TSB currently available only applies to the pre-LCI, non-LED taillights (see below). You can plug in your VIN and see for yourself.

https://www.automd.com/tsb/bmw_m/

BMW AG is not going to download the Bimmercode APP, ApplePay $30 and then remove everyone's bulb check. For them to officially correct this particular issues, the changes would have implement into a full iLevel software revision, as they don't do individuals lines of coding changes, on an official franchise dealer-level.

So unless it's a federally-mandated recall, I sincerely doubt they're going invest the resources to developing a fix & then update the software of every owner's vehicle, just to address this non critical issue.

My guess is they'll just sweep it under the rug, until the models affected with this issue is eventually phased out of production. 🤫
And adding a resistor so blinkers draw more current as it was with incandescent ones?
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      08-29-2020, 04:28 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamonRuiz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
There is no official fix for this issue, decoding the bulb checks is the only viable solution and it remaining active is the actual cause of this error.

The TSB currently available only applies to the pre-LCI, non-LED taillights (see below). You can plug in your VIN and see for yourself.

https://www.automd.com/tsb/bmw_m/

BMW AG is not going to download the Bimmercode APP, ApplePay $30 and then remove everyone's bulb check. For them to officially correct this particular issues, the changes would have implement into a full iLevel software revision, as they don't do individuals lines of coding changes, on an official franchise dealer-level.

So unless it's a federally-mandated recall, I sincerely doubt they're going invest the resources to developing a fix & then update the software of every owner's vehicle, just to address this non critical issue.

My guess is they'll just sweep it under the rug, until the models affected with this issue is eventually phased out of production. 🤫
And adding a resistor so blinkers draw more current as it was with incandescent ones?
A resistor might work in tricking the amperage flow but my in my experience, aftermarket resistor add-ons generates a lot of heat and might require some janky wire splicing.

I don't like the potential of a fire hazard but that's just me..

I still stand behind the fact that coding out the bulb checks is the most clean, efficient and proven method of eliminating this issue and is the root cause of this error.
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      08-29-2020, 08:50 AM   #84
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Poochie, please please please stop giving advise about this. Last week you said you have no electrical experience after I had corrected you numerous times about incorrect advice you've given in how circuits work. And now you said "In my experience" You literally have ZERO experience in electrical knowledge.

And to go further you say "I don't like the potential of a fire hazard, but that's just me" Meanwhile, your solution of disabling the bulb checks causing the potential for a fire, even more so than adding a (useless) resistor to a circuit) and you dismissing it as "not a big deal" and telling me to pound sand because I expressed concern over your solution.

You are being so incredibly two sided in this and saying whatever you want to convince people of whatever it is you have on your mind at the time, while having zero knowledge or understanding of the m2 tail light.

Last edited by Anthony1s; 08-29-2020 at 08:56 AM..
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      08-29-2020, 08:54 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamonRuiz View Post
And adding a resistor so blinkers draw more current as it was with incandescent ones?
A resistor does not make blinkers draw more current. It reduces current flow. PLEASE DO NOT LISTEN TO POOCHIE! I've had numerous debates with him about this. He does not know what he's talking about.
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      08-29-2020, 05:17 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by RamonRuiz View Post
And adding a resistor so blinkers draw more current as it was with incandescent ones?
A resistor does not make blinkers draw more current. It reduces current flow. PLEASE DO NOT LISTEN TO POOCHIE! I've had numerous debates with him about this. He does not know what he's talking about.
God, you again.. I thought you blocked me, like I suggested.. Wishful thinking, I guess..

Instead of pulling shit out your ass and accusing me of misinformation, how about provide something with substance to back up your claim.

I never stated how they work, just the potential hazard.. The purpose of a resistor is the regulate the right amount of power to a device, so it doesn't fluctuate or assume there is a low amperage LED active, thus avoiding the system assuming there is a bulb outage.

I've added a resistor to my Mini Cooper's reverse light LEDs before; they do become too hot, for my liking. As confirmed in the video below.

It's much easier and safer to just remove the bulb checks than add external components to the vehicle's wiring.


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      08-29-2020, 06:50 PM   #87
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Poochie, let me quote you, because you continue to either gaslight me or forget every and any thing you ever say...

"A resistor might work in tricking the amperage flow but my in my experience, aftermarket resistor add-ons generates a lot of heat and might require some janky wire splicing."

You clearly say it might work. If you had absolutely any idea how a resistor works you would know that it would absolutely not work. Yet you claim "In my experience" as if you have a fucking clue what you're talking about.

The purpose of a resistor does not matter, it can be used for any purpose. It's like saying the purpose of a cup is for drinking milk. Umm, no. You can drink anything from it or you can put pencils in it or do anything else with it. The purpose it was made for is completely irrelevant.

There is zero potential hazard due to increased heat, due to adding a properly valued resistor. Yet you claim there is. If you are supplying current to a circuit, let's say 12w, the heat will always be 12w. A resistor does not bring more power to a circuit. Heat is a by product of current, and there is no additional current being applied to the circuit when you add a resistor. Heat and electricity are both forms of energy. Energy does not disappear, it can only be converted into other forms of energy. A properly valued resistor would contain the energy. Get that through your head and stop spreading misinformation.

If you are concerned of a fire hazard, DO NOT DISABLE THE BULB CHECKS.

And I gave my solution to everyone a while ago. Go to the dealership. Have them fix it. If you are out of warranty, pay the $76 for them to replace the part. This way you are not at risk of catching your car on fire. Whatever fix the dealership does, they are liable for. If people take your solution (a solution you have not done and tested yourself, and can never do, because you have a pre-lci M2 with lci taillights, making your experience completely irrelevant to others here) the people following your solution will be up shits creek without a paddle if/when something goes wrong.

On top of that. All your janky ass solutions are deterring people from going to the dealership to make BMW more aware and publish a TSB.

SO PLEASE JUST STOP IT!
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      08-29-2020, 07:29 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
Poochie, let me quote you, because you continue to either gaslight me or forget every and any thing you ever say...

"A resistor might work in tricking the amperage flow but my in my experience, aftermarket resistor add-ons generates a lot of heat and might require some janky wire splicing."

You clearly say it might work. If you had absolutely any idea how a resistor works you would know that it would absolutely not work. Yet you claim "In my experience" as if you have a fucking clue what you're talking about.

The purpose of a resistor does not matter, it can be used for any purpose. It's like saying the purpose of a cup is for drinking milk. Umm, no. You can drink anything from it or you can put pencils in it or do anything else with it. The purpose it was made for is completely irrelevant.

There is zero potential hazard due to increased heat, due to adding a properly valued resistor. Yet you claim there is. If you are supplying current to a circuit, let's say 12w, the heat will always be 12w. A resistor does not bring more power to a circuit. Heat is a by product of current, and there is no additional current being applied to the circuit when you add a resistor. Heat and electricity are both forms of energy. Energy does not disappear, it can only be converted into other forms of energy. A properly valued resistor would contain the energy. Get that through your head and stop spreading misinformation.

If you are concerned of a fire hazard, DO NOT DISABLE THE BULB CHECKS.

And I gave my solution to everyone a while ago. Go to the dealership. Have them fix it. If you are out of warranty, pay the $76 for them to replace the part. This way you are not at risk of catching your car on fire. Whatever fix the dealership does, they are liable for. If people take your solution (a solution you have not done and tested yourself, and can never do, because you have a pre-lci M2 with lci taillights, making your experience completely irrelevant to others here) the people following your solution will be up shits creek without a paddle if/when something goes wrong.

On top of that. All your janky ass solutions are deterring people from going to the dealership to make BMW more aware and publish a TSB.

SO PLEASE JUST STOP IT!
Blah blah blah,

I'm not sure what your hard-on is with me and why you're on this crusade but get lost already. Jezz.

I explained that removing the bulb checks eliminates this issue, it was then confirmed by several owners to work, including myself, yet you keep tooting a bunch of hot air. Why? What's your deal? Go play with yourself or watch a movie something and jump off my dick already.

I just provided proof that an aftermarket resistor generates heat, plus you have to splice into the wire harness.

If you want to make your car a potential fire hazard by installing some aftermarket garbage within the vehicle's circuit, you do you.

Anyone who actually wants to safely solve this issue, then removing the bulb check is guarantee to work, as BMW's programming is written to allow but you don't have to take my advice, It's just a friendly and free suggestion.
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