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      04-23-2018, 11:49 PM   #45
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Installed the N20 3.5 bar TMAP today and was able to crank up the boost. I'm currently running a 60 additive with the 3.5 bar TMAP which equates to roughly 21-22 psi of boost flat from 4000 RPM - 7000 RPM. The MHD/BMS BEF runs around 11 degrees of timing up top as well. This is all with a single CM10 nozzle in the chargepipe. The logs show that all cylinders are actually quite happy. I'm surprised to see this, figured I'd really need the port methanol injection at this point.

The car pulls really hard. Not sure if it's possible to get it to spool up sooner or not (perhaps closer to 3500 RPM)... regardless the car feels like an absolute monster. Not certain on how much HP / TQ is currently at the wheels - I know Peter@PureTurbos mentioned that around 21 PSI is 500 wHP.

I have the Fuel-It Port Methanol Injection rail and controller sitting in the garage waiting to be installed. I realized after receiving the product that I'd still want to run a small nozzle in the charge pipe (CM5) - so with that being said I had to order a few AN fittings and a new nozzle to make that happen. Hopefully by the end of the week I'll have that installed and be able to set up a nice "kill map" with the JB4 on Map 6!

I'll post pictures of the port-methanol install once completed. I'm also expecting my Dragy to arrive tomorrow so I'll be able to record some times with that (0-100 km/h, 100-200 km/h, etc.). After that it's dyno time!
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      04-25-2018, 08:35 PM   #46
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@Endeav Dual CM10 alone can support up to 25psi with stock fueling no problem whatsoever. PI is only needed with Ethanol on high boost.

In addition, I'm surprised in your case pump gas can handle 21psi up top with PS2. I've seen a lot N55 PS2 struggling with timing at 18-19psi (up top of course) on pump gas.

Keep pushing and good luck! I don't see anyone else has made what you're aiming at.
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      04-26-2018, 09:12 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanWRT View Post
@Endeav Dual CM10 alone can support up to 25psi with stock fueling no problem whatsoever. PI is only needed with Ethanol on high boost.

In addition, I'm surprised in your case pump gas can handle 21psi up top with PS2. I've seen a lot N55 PS2 struggling with timing at 18-19psi (up top of course) on pump gas.

Keep pushing and good luck! I don't see anyone else has made what you're aiming at.
I was very surprised as well and was even beginning to think that I might not need the PI kit until I experienced my first HPFP crash lol. Turns out, at 21 PSI as long as you go WOT at < 3000 RPM - the CM10 keeps up with fueling all 6 cylinders. However, if you try and go WOT anytime above 3000 RPM - especially in a lower gear, the HPFP crashes within 500 RPM. I think the reason is two-fold, one, the CM10 really is too small to keep up with the demand, and two, the CM10 is located in the charge pipe and takes a bit to actually "quench" the intake air with methanol and provide a steady stream to all 6 cylinders.

Once I experienced that "bottleneck" / HPFP crash I knew the port injection had to go on. I tackled the install yesterday and the install is pretty straight forward. The DME plugs can be tricky and a second set of hands makes removing the intake manifold significantly easier. Here are some pictures of the Fuel-It PI Methanol rail installed.



The methanol feed for the injection rail is on the firewall side, and the return line can be seen in the middle of the rail underneath the Fuel-It logo. You do have the option of putting a return line on the very end but it is extremely tight on that side with the HPFP being there - I wouldn't recommend it. The return line right now is plumbed to a CM10 nozzle - I will be dropping this down to a CM5 nozzle once it arrives in the mail. This product is extremely high quality and I would not hesitate to recommend it anyone looking for more fuel volume. Combine it with the BMS PI controller and you've got yourself a very advanced system which can be tweaked on the fly via iPhone/Android app.

I went out for a quick drive last night to verify the system was in fact working. Logged a run with just the CM10 nozzle spraying - my fuel trims were in the ~35 range once peak boost hit. I then relogged with the PI system enabled and in the same RPM range, my fuel trims had dropped all the way down to ~11-15. For anyone not familiar with JB4 logging values - anything above 25 means the DME is adding fuel, anything less than 25 means the DME is reducing fuel flow. Seeing lower trim values when the PI is on means the PI system is in fact working because the DME needs to inject less fuel to keep up with the demand. Long story short, the PI is lessening the workload of the OEM fuel system.

My Dragy has also arrived. I haven't had much time to play with it just yet. I'll definitely get that working by the end of the week and hopefully be able to post some times!

Last edited by Endeav; 04-26-2018 at 11:21 AM..
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      04-30-2018, 06:26 PM   #48
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Very impressive build.

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Originally Posted by Endeav View Post
Everything went quite smoothly with only the inlet pipe slowing us down!
Can you be more specific as to what challenges you encountered with the inlet pipe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Endeav View Post
Installed the N20 3.5 bar TMAP today and was able to crank up the boost.
Why was this part necessary? What does it do?
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      04-30-2018, 07:44 PM   #49
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Very impressive build.

Can you be more specific as to what challenges you encountered with the inlet pipe?

Why was this part necessary? What does it do?
The main challenge with the inlet pipe is just the location it's in and the path that it comes from off the turbo and over to the airbox. It's not exactly a mechanically difficult install, but rather just one of those installs that requires a decent bit of finesse and patience. Even with practically everything removed from the engine it was quite tight. I would HIGHLY recommend you do what we did and install it in two separate parts. Put the aluminum inlet on the turbo and get that seated nicely, and then guide down the intake tube to the inlet and fasten the T-Bolt clamp. Trying to guide it down in one piece was just way too frustrating.

The N20 TMAP isn't exactly necessary - it really depends on your power goals. The OEM N55 TMAP can only read up to roughly 20 PSI of boost and this value is atmospheric pressure (elevation) dependent. The N20 TMAP on the other hand can read up to 35 PSI. If you plan on running over 20 PSI of boost you'll need to swap out the sensor so the DME can accomodate accordingly.
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      05-07-2018, 12:43 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by brooke1972 View Post
Updates?
Haven't been able to get on the dyno just yet.

I discovered a meth leak off the PI rail early last week and had to remove it off the vehicle and wait for new O-rings. One of the O-rings was pinched, and unfortunately even when re-seated, once the rail pressurized, it just ended up pinching itself again. Unfortunately I wasn't able to just go to the hardware store and pick up new O-rings, they had to be ordered in because they come in contact with methanol need to be made of a specific material, not to mention specific size.

If anyone is looking for these O-rings, they are Viton #203 for the feed side of the injector.

I was able to put the PI back on the vehicle on Saturday, the car is running extremely well now.






Last edited by Endeav; 07-07-2018 at 04:19 PM..
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      05-09-2018, 11:10 AM   #51
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Awesome progress! Keep on sharing, please!

I've never delved into meth, so forgive me for asking silly questions, but I was curious about a few things.

1) What kind of meth are you running? VP M1? M3? M5? Something else? Are you just buying barrels of it and storing it at home?
2) Is the car always using meth, or only under high boost?
3) What protections do you have for if you were to run out of meth? Just have multiple maps for different fueling situations?
4) From reading your earlier posts, am I right in saying that the advantage of running this direct port injection, rather than just running a fuel mixture in the main tank, is that the stock fuel system will eventually be limited (even with a HPFP)? Dumb question (I use to be a honda b-series guy, sorry) is there no way to run larger injectors in the M2 along with the upgraded fuel pump?
5) Where did you mount the 3 gallon meth tank?
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      05-09-2018, 05:20 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by M2 Alex View Post
Awesome progress! Keep on sharing, please!

I've never delved into meth, so forgive me for asking silly questions, but I was curious about a few things.

1) What kind of meth are you running? VP M1? M3? M5? Something else? Are you just buying barrels of it and storing it at home?
2) Is the car always using meth, or only under high boost?
3) What protections do you have for if you were to run out of meth? Just have multiple maps for different fueling situations?
4) From reading your earlier posts, am I right in saying that the advantage of running this direct port injection, rather than just running a fuel mixture in the main tank, is that the stock fuel system will eventually be limited (even with a HPFP)? Dumb question (I use to be a honda b-series guy, sorry) is there no way to run larger injectors in the M2 along with the upgraded fuel pump?
5) Where did you mount the 3 gallon meth tank?
Keep the questions coming, I don't mind one bit. Hopefully I can answer them all!

1) I'm running just regular old methanol I'm getting from a local chemical supplier in the city. It's basically the same stuff you can get at Home Depot, its just cheaper because I'm ordering it in larger quantities. It also can be found under the name "Methyl Hydrate". I'm mixing it myself (weight by volume) and just storing about 5 - 10 gallons of premixed 80:20 in the garage so that if I ever need to top up the tank I already have some readily available. As a side note, I thought about running VP Racing methanol, specifically M5, but I came to the conclusion that in this case, it just isn't worth it for me. The gains would be nice, but I'm not striving to milk every once of power out of the car. Just looking for a good reliable amount of power. I'm sure there are other benefits to VP Methanol such as lubrication and anti-knock additives, but regular methanol is working just fine. Additionally, VP Methanol Is pretty expensive up here in Canada (~ $100 for 5 gallons).

2) The car only uses methanol when under boost. Anytime the car hits 4 PSI the methanol begins to spray progressively. When daily driving or just commuting I don't use any methanol unless I step on it.

3) With the JB4 as a methanol controller it can detect whether or not the methanol is actually spraying, if it isn't spraying, the "meth map" isn't activated and the car runs significantly lower boost. That's the "failsafe" part of the JB4. If for example there was an extended period where my tank was empty and I needed to just drive it for a bit without being able to refill, I would just run a different map with lower boost. I could also just choose to stay completely out of boost and be just fine.

4) You are correct. The stock system will eventually be limited. If you were to upgrade the OEM direct injection injectors, and the OEM LPFP you would still be in the same situation - the HPFP would be unable to keep up with the fueling demand. There are two HPFP upgrades I know of, and compared to just direct port injection (gasoline or methanol), the HPFP upgrades are much more expensive. An alternative to direct port methanol is direct port fuel injection - it's the exact same system except you upgrade the LPFP as well to feed 6 additional injectors on the intake manifold spacer. The feed line is T'd off of the fuel line that comes from the gas tank. Hopefully this makes sense!

5) I have the 3 gallon methanol tank mounted in the trunk. I've posted a picture of the tank below!


Last edited by Endeav; 07-07-2018 at 04:20 PM..
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      05-09-2018, 11:32 PM   #53
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Thanks for your answers! Informative. Nice mounting, it looks stock

Do you have any idea at what point the internals of the n55 would start needing to be upgraded? Is 600whp even close to the limit for the stock internals?
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      05-10-2018, 12:47 AM   #54
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Love seeing updates in this thread. Meth info is interesting too. It's so rarely used in Australia. Seems crazy not to
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      05-10-2018, 04:25 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M2 Alex View Post
Thanks for your answers! Informative. Nice mounting, it looks stock

Do you have any idea at what point the internals of the n55 would start needing to be upgraded? Is 600whp even close to the limit for the stock internals?
I'm honestly not 100% sure on this. I've seen plenty of cars run 500-550 wHP for an extended period of time. This is on the non-M2 N55. I've recently seen a few cars crest into the high 500's, even low 600's on the stock block.

As for the reliability at those upper levels... not quite sure just yet. It's kind of uncharted waters and I'm not sure if I want to be the pioneer for that one!
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      05-11-2018, 08:33 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endeav View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M2 Alex View Post
Thanks for your answers! Informative. Nice mounting, it looks stock

Do you have any idea at what point the internals of the n55 would start needing to be upgraded? Is 600whp even close to the limit for the stock internals?
I'm honestly not 100% sure on this. I've seen plenty of cars run 500-550 wHP for an extended period of time. This is on the non-M2 N55. I've recently seen a few cars crest into the high 500's, even low 600's on the stock block.

As for the reliability at those upper levels... not quite sure just yet. It's kind of uncharted waters and I'm not sure if I want to be the pioneer for that one!
Haha, I figured.

When I first got my M2 and joined these forums, I sort of assumed there would be a bunch of guys with sleeved blocks, or blockguards (probably too ghetto for bimmer guys), and various other upgrades (stronger head studs, rods, pistons, etc). Not the case...

Pushing it or not, that's why this is my new favorite build to follow. Someone finally making some decent power!
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      07-07-2018, 04:13 PM   #57
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Small little update here. I went out with a friend of mine (IG: @shaunjeroski) and took some pictures of the M2. It's been running strong at 22 PSI, and my timing looks very clean in my most recent logs. I had a small hiccup with my meth system which I was troubleshooting for the past couple weeks (issue with the BMW dealer). Long story short, it's now been fixed and the car is back to running full boost. I'll hopefully be able to dyno very soon - sometime in the next week or so!

In the meantime, enjoy some pictures!






Last edited by Endeav; 07-07-2018 at 04:19 PM..
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      09-19-2018, 12:47 AM   #58
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@endeav were you able to put it on the dyno already?
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      10-13-2018, 02:40 PM   #59
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First, thanks so much for this thread and the info you've shared! I have some questions, as I am going to be heading down the same rabbit hole that you're in now, LOL!

I already have in my possession (not installed) the pure stage 2 turbo with GFB diverter & pure inlet. My car is currently running the VF stage 2 hex tune, whcih I've grown bored of...there's no top end.

Mods include: AA intercooler, ER charge & TIC pipes, Dinan intake / resonator delete & fabspeed sport cat. My goal is 500-600whp, strongly depending on reliability, and minimal complexity. In other words, I'll sacrifice whp for safe & reliable power. I also have an MPE (gen 1) that I'll be installing with the PS2.

1) Is this the correct p/n for the n20 tmap? 13-62-7-585-493

2) I am hoping to run either fuel-it or bmp port injection, with upgraded lpfp. I might also upgrade the HPFP if needed. I want to ONLY RUN 93 Octane PUMP FUEL for both stock fueling and PI kit. How come I don't see anyone else doing this? Are there some drawbacks that I am not aware of?

3) (I might be ignorant with this, so excuse me in advance.) I don't want to run JB4, or JB4 PI fuel controller. I am led to believe that the split second PI fuel controller can be made to work with a custom flash tune. Is this correct? If so, can I assume that safety features will be available via tune, should the PI system malfunction?

4) Is my AA intercooler going to cut it? I've been reading and despite AA's claims, it seems like it might not be up to the task. I have had great experiences with Evolution Racewerks, and I am strongly considering purchasing their intercooler. Thoughts?

5) Based off of some experiences from other members here, I have purchased a set of NGK 97506 spark plugs. What's your experience with plugs?

That's all I have for now, but more to follow. And I don't want to hijack your thread, so please take this offline via PM if need be

TIA,
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      10-13-2018, 06:30 PM   #60
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Quote:
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@endeav were you able to put it on the dyno already?
Unfortunately not yet.

I've been trying to diagnose an odd issue that's preventing me from running the boost I'd like to run. I can run 22-21 psi flat, however the actual boost value tapers at the upper RPM and moves away from the targeted boost value as RPM increases. Initially I thought it was a simple fix - clearly a boost leak but I've checked the car for leaks and can't find any between the turbo and the throttle body. I've fully replaced the VRSF charge-pipes with FTP charge-pipes and nothing changed in my datalogs. My WGDC remains at around 85 - 95% in the JB4 log, and boost is off by about 1-2 PSI, especially in the upper RPM where WGDC creeps up slightly. Now, since nothing changed at all between swapping the charge pipes I'm basically 100% certain there isn't a leak between the turbo and throttle body (and my pressure test shows it). I've also pressure tested the intercooler by itself, and there's no leaks there as well.

I unfortunately can't reliably test the Intake Manifold to Fuel It PI Spacer to Cylinder Head connection to see if that's where the leak is. I will be getting the Phoenix Racing intake manifold with the PI injectors built in from BMS and getting that swapped. If that's where the leak is, I imagine that by removing the PI spacer I can probably get rid of the leak, or at minimum reduce the number of spots a leak could occur.

My WGDC has always been on the high side since I installed the turbo, so I'm almost wondering if I need a EWG arm adjustment. I'm wondering if maybe the EWG is set too "loose" and as a result isn't actually closing all the way despite my logs saying it is. The WGDC parameter is simply what the JB4 is outputting to the EWG, so for example, 100% may not actually correlate to a 100% closed WG, it just means the EWG arm has reached maxed travel. As such, if I tighten the EWG arm, even if its a couple revolutions on the adjustment nuts... it might actually fix my issue.

Anyone happen to have any ideas or suggestions? Does my EWG theory sound plausible?


Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
First, thanks so much for this thread and the info you've shared! I have some questions, as I am going to be heading down the same rabbit hole that you're in now, LOL!

I already have in my possession (not installed) the pure stage 2 turbo with GFB diverter & pure inlet. My car is currently running the VF stage 2 hex tune, whcih I've grown bored of...there's no top end.

Mods include: AA intercooler, ER charge & TIC pipes, Dinan intake / resonator delete & fabspeed sport cat. My goal is 500-600whp, strongly depending on reliability, and minimal complexity. In other words, I'll sacrifice whp for safe & reliable power. I also have an MPE (gen 1) that I'll be installing with the PS2.
From what I have read on many forums from people running bigger turbos on the N55, 500 wHP is incredibly reliable. Anything north of that is almost uncharted waters. There's only a handful of people running 550, 600+ wHP and unfortunately I don't think they've been around long enough to say its "reliable" just yet!

Not saying it isn't, but 500 neighborhood is definitely the sweet spot with current knowledge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
1) Is this the correct p/n for the n20 tmap? 13-62-7-585-493
The correct part number is 13-62-7-843-531!
Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
2) I am hoping to run either fuel-it or bmp port injection, with upgraded lpfp. I might also upgrade the HPFP if needed. I want to ONLY RUN 93 Octane PUMP FUEL for both stock fueling and PI kit. How come I don't see anyone else doing this? Are there some drawbacks that I am not aware of?
The big reason a lot of people don't run just solely pump fuel is actually quite simple. It's octane. You can throw as much fuel as you want at the car, but at the end of the day its octane that is going to keep you from getting to your power goals. With the stock fuel system, the M2 is fuel volume limited, however once that's upgraded, the M2 becomes octane limited. Unless you have insanely good 93 octane, I don't think you'd be able to push 500 wHP.

If you want to go straight fuel (no methanol) and push 500 wHP+, I'd venture to say you'd need access to ethanol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
3) (I might be ignorant with this, so excuse me in advance.) I don't want to run JB4, or JB4 PI fuel controller. I am led to believe that the split second PI fuel controller can be made to work with a custom flash tune. Is this correct? If so, can I assume that safety features will be available via tune, should the PI system malfunction?
The split second PI controller can work with flash tunes, correct. You flash the fuel map to the PI controller that your tuner creates for you and you get it dialed in just as you would the flash tune. The PI controller gets its RPM signal from one of the wires leading off the OBDII port.

The downside with this is there are no "safety features" like you would traditionally think. The car won't turn down the boost / timing should the PI fail. In fact, there really won't be any way to reliably see that the PI controller is actually functioning while you're driving the vehicle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
4) Is my AA intercooler going to cut it? I've been reading and despite AA's claims, it seems like it might not be up to the task. I have had great experiences with Evolution Racewerks, and I am strongly considering purchasing their intercooler. Thoughts?
Not 100% certain on this one. I can only comment with what I have personal experience with. I have the CSF intercooler and it's phenomenal!
Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
5) Based off of some experiences from other members here, I have purchased a set of NGK 97506 spark plugs. What's your experience with plugs?
I was running the OEM plugs for about 2 months with this PS2 turbo. After those two months I developed a misfire when I was WOT at 5000 RPM. I swapped the plugs to the 97506 and gapped them to 0.020" and haven't had any issues since.

Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
That's all I have for now, but more to follow. And I don't want to hijack your thread, so please take this offline via PM if need be
Don't feel like you're thread jacking. I'm sure a lot of people on this forum would benefit from this information being out there in the open!

Last edited by Endeav; 10-13-2018 at 06:54 PM..
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      10-16-2018, 10:03 PM   #61
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Thanks for all of your answers.

I am going to "try" and hit my 500whp on 93 pump gas with the upgraded HPFP and pure stage 2 turbo. I'll start my own thread once I get thing setup and start getting dyno numbers, etc.

I wish you best of luck with your build and look forward to updates!
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      10-17-2018, 12:30 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
Thanks for all of your answers.

I am going to "try" and hit my 500whp on 93 pump gas with the upgraded HPFP and pure stage 2 turbo. I'll start my own thread once I get thing setup and start getting dyno numbers, etc.

I wish you best of luck with your build and look forward to updates!
500whp requires 22+psi with PS2 at from 5k+, good luck try that on pump gas and let us know
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      10-17-2018, 08:21 AM   #63
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Quote:
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500whp requires 22+psi with PS2 at from 5k+, good luck try that on pump gas and let us know
Hey, thanks Sean!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Endeav
Anyone happen to have any ideas or suggestions? Does my EWG theory sound plausible?
You said you never had the WG arm adjusted via ISTA, correct? Maybe try and have that done, for peace of mind.

Last edited by switlikbob; 10-17-2018 at 08:29 AM..
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      10-17-2018, 08:57 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by SeanWRT View Post
500whp requires 22+psi with PS2 at from 5k+, good luck try that on pump gas and let us know
If you manage to hit 500 wHP on just pump gas I will be very impressed! I know that statement sounds sarcastic, but it's not meant to be haha. I truly look forward to your results!

Good luck, and I'm sure you'll enjoy it once its all dialed in.

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Originally Posted by switlikbob View Post
Hey, thanks Sean!


You said you never had the WG arm adjusted via ISTA, correct? Maybe try and have that done, for peace of mind.
You're right... I just counted the threads like you would with a traditional pneumatic setup and assumed no code = good to go. Maybe that's the next step is to have it adjusted via ISTA. Good suggestion!
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      10-17-2018, 10:04 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endeav View Post
If you manage to hit 500 wHP on just pump gas I will be very impressed! I know that statement sounds sarcastic, but it's not meant to be haha. I truly look forward to your results!

Good luck, and I'm sure you'll enjoy it once its all dialed in.
It is already dialed in. I'm sure my car won't make 500whp nor am I even trying that. In fact, I backed off a little bit running just 16~17psi. It's my daily and track day tune, 365-day consistency.

I'll dyno soon, maybe this weekend or next.
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      10-24-2018, 12:15 PM   #66
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Phoenix Racing manifold came in a lot sooner than originally anticipated and I wasted no time getting it installed.

Overall this is a gorgeous piece to add to the engine bay and makes servicing the port injection much easier than the Fuel-It Kit. The injectors are top mounted as opposed to bottom mounted, and are literally on top of the intake manifold allowing for leaks, etc. to be seen immediately and easily. With the Fuel-It spacer I would have had to remove the intake manifold to fix any leaks on the injector side of things, whereas with the Phoenix Racing setup, I shouldn't ever have to remove the intake manifold again (knock on wood).

I did run into a couple issues with the N55 version of this kit and I'll go through them in detail here. I think BMS is going to fix the hardware issues I ran into, but I might as well mention them should anyone else decide to buy this manifold.

First issue was that there weren't replacement throttle body bolts in the N55 hardware kit. This might be intentional, and if it is then ignore this issue entirely. Otherwise, I don't know if this is M2 specific, but the OEM bolts used to secure the throttle body to the intake manifold are the plastic-chewing coarse thread variety and obviously won't work with a threaded aluminum intake manifold. Not a problem, thread pitch and bolt length were pretty standard and I was able to find some M8 x 50mm bolts at the hardware store.

Second issue was that one of the DME connectors - the one second from the left splits in two directions. The bundle of wires that goes toward the bottom of the engine bay heads into this "junction box" that is attached to one of the HPFP feed lines via a bracket (See picture below). Just to give you a landmark on that photo - you can see the throttle body charge pipe connection in the bottom right. The junction box is located to the right of the HPFP and essentially right below the intake manifold / behind the throttle body. Now the issue was that the bundle that goes to the DME connector from this junction box is slightly too short to reach the new DME position when its mounted to the Phoenix Racing intake manifold. With the new manifold the DME now sits slightly more horizontal, and you need an extra 2 inches on that bundle of wires to get it to clip in without straining the wires. Luckily this was an easy fix. I simply undid the mounting bracket and was able to move that junction box over to accommodate new DME position.


The final issue I ran into might be M2 specific. The M2 uses 5 studs and two bolts to hold the intake manifold to the head. The two OEM bolts are about 10mm too long to actually hold the Phoenix Racing manifold to the head, they bottom out in the threaded hole before the head of the bolt makes contact with the manifold. This is simply because the mounting surface of the Phoenix Racing manifold is thinner than that of the OEM plastic intake manifold. Again, easy fix! I picked up two M7 x 40mm bolts to replace the M7 x 50mm OEM bolts and got the intake manifold installed.

It fits nicely in the engine bay and looks absolutely gorgeous. It also makes servicing the port injection component of the vehicle 10x easier because I no longer have to remove the intake manifold to access the injectors.



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