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      01-29-2020, 05:28 PM   #1
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Can't update i-step due to LCI cluster retrofit!

So my car is on ancient software and wanted to update it however my garage couldn't do it. The system would not allow update as it conflicted with the LCI guages I have had retrofitted (and coded by same garage).

They said nothing they could do and I'm a bit gutted.

Any ideas on this?

I have my old guages and wonder if temporarily hooking them up, doing the update then putting the LCI guages back and re-coding them is a workaround?

Have not seen this mentioned before so thought I'd put it out there, if not to inform others.

Last edited by 3t3p; 03-25-2020 at 06:50 PM..
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      01-30-2020, 03:08 AM   #2
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Whenever you're updating the vehicle's software, the system does a check to verify all the original, factory hardware is in place.

If you changed any factory modules, it has to be reinstalled prior to the update or it will be rejected.

That's why it's advisable that you always keep the original hardware.I learned this the hard way when I had swap my iDrive controller with the ceramic version from a 7 series.

Since you did indeed save the original cluster, just reinstall it and take it back to them to complete the update. After you reinstalled the original cluster, it's going to display some errors, including a red dot called a "tamper code" since the LCI cluster mapping was saved. You can ignore that, it doesn't need to be recoded for the update.

Afterwards, when the software is updated, you can then replace it back with the LCI cluster and then recode it.
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      01-30-2020, 06:26 AM   #3
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Nice one. So literally connect the guages, ignore the tamper warning, update software, put new guages in and recode the LCI guages if needed.
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      01-30-2020, 04:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3t3p View Post
Nice one. So literally connect the guages, ignore the tamper warning, update software, put new guages in and recode the LCI guages if needed.
Yes, that's the only work-around or else the update would keep getting rejected.

You just need someone to recode the cluster after the software update because it will revert back to the pre-LCI cluster mapping.
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      01-31-2020, 06:45 PM   #5
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Well the same garage are the ones who coded the LCI retrofit so don't know why they didn't mention doing it.
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      02-01-2020, 07:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3t3p View Post
Well the same garage are the ones who coded the LCI retrofit so don't know why they didn't mention doing it.
Who knows the answer behind that one.

I'm the cynical type, so I would say they knew and just didn't inform you because they now get the opportunity to charge you twice, for the same job :

Just be grateful have found a shop that's capable of doing all the programming, under one roof.

I when through hell, bouncing from forum, to independent shop, to dealer and vice-versa trying to resolve my issue, which by the way, I actually figured out, by my on intuition. None of experts gave me the answer I needed.
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      02-01-2020, 10:38 AM   #7
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They didn't charge me that's the thing, they had my car on the ramp for an hour trying to sort it. I'll only go there for work to my car anyway and reminded them of that, that and I was grateful they didn't charge me (Darren Wood btw for UK members).

I'll leave the car be for a bit and approach them when it's better driving weather to try and get the updated software on.
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      02-01-2020, 11:38 AM   #8
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Whats so different about the LCI gauges that you wanted change? Just wondering
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      02-01-2020, 05:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
That's why it's advisable that you always keep the original hardware.
Lol whoopsie, sold my original cluster

That being said I don't see many scenarios where I'd be forced to update my istep

Quote:
Originally Posted by Killed by Death View Post
Whats so different about the LCI gauges that you wanted change? Just wondering
The LCI looks more modern/cooler (personal opinion) and the old gauges have poor daytime visibility in some lighting conditions:

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...4&postcount=24
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      02-01-2020, 05:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewc89 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
That's why it's advisable that you always keep the original hardware.
Lol whoopsie, sold my original cluster 😅

That being said I don't see many scenarios where I'd be forced to update my istep
Don't sweat it Andrew, you live and you learn; I grew up on Hondas where you can go to Home Depot and fix the entire car with Sheetrock screws #TheGhettoWay

I so wasn't aware that if I had swapped my iDrive controller with a ceramic version, it would be a problem.

So I sold my original iDrive controller for a $100 not knowing it would be an issue, when I required any repairs on my vehicle.

However, most if not all replacement parts on a BMW requires the dealer the to update the entire iLevel version, in order it to sync with the new part. Which, if you don't have the original factory hardware, the dealer's system would outright reject the programing and they you get that call from your dealer.

Check the photos below, when I had swap the controller with the ceramic version, which I loved to death, they couldn't program my (unrelated) replacement part. So I had to purchase the original controller that came with the vehicle and take it back to them.

It sucks but it's what it is..
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Last edited by Poochie; 02-01-2020 at 06:03 PM..
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      02-01-2020, 05:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
Don't sweat it Andrew, you live and you learn; I grew up on Hondas where you can go to Home Depot and fix the entire car with Sheetrock screws #TheGhettoWay

I so wasn't aware that if I had swapped my iDrive controller with a ceramic version, it would be a problem.

So I sold my original iDrive controller for a $100 not knowing it would be an issue, when I required any repairs on my vehicle.

However, most if not all replacement parts on a BMW requires the dealer the to update the entire iLevel version, in order it to sync with the new part. Which, if you don't have the original factory hardware, the dealer's system would outright reject the programing and they you get that call from your dealer.

Check the photos below, when I had swap the controller with the ceramic version, which I loved to death, they couldn't program my (unrelated) replacement controller. I had to purchase the original controller that came with the vehicle and take it back to them.

It sucks but it's what it is..
Curious if I could hypothetically use a used/cheap ebay cluster in the event I needed to source one, or if it would have to be brand new.
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      02-01-2020, 05:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewc89 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
Don't sweat it Andrew, you live and you learn; I grew up on Hondas where you can go to Home Depot and fix the entire car with Sheetrock screws #TheGhettoWay

I so wasn't aware that if I had swapped my iDrive controller with a ceramic version, it would be a problem.

So I sold my original iDrive controller for a $100 not knowing it would be an issue, when I required any repairs on my vehicle.

However, most if not all replacement parts on a BMW requires the dealer the to update the entire iLevel version, in order it to sync with the new part. Which, if you don't have the original factory hardware, the dealer's system would outright reject the programing and they you get that call from your dealer.

Check the photos below, when I had swap the controller with the ceramic version, which I loved to death, they couldn't program my (unrelated) replacement controller. I had to purchase the original controller that came with the vehicle and take it back to them.

It sucks but it's what it is..
Curious if I could hypothetically use a used/cheap ebay cluster in the event I needed to source one, or if it would have to be brand new
You can buy a used M2 cluster and just keep it, you don't even need to recode it. Just match the original part number.

So if they ever need to do any programming, you need reinstall it before they complete the process.

There are a couple of threads on the subject in the M4 section, when I locate them, I'll PM them to you so you can read up.
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      02-01-2020, 06:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
You can buy a used M2 cluster and just keep it, you don't even need to recode it. Just match the original part number.

So if they ever need to do any programming, you need reinstall it before they complete the process.

There are a couple of threads on the subject in the M4 section, when I locate them, I'll PM them to you so you can read up.
Since you mentioned having a similar issue with your idrive controller I'm wondering if the same potential problem could arise with my euro fog light switch, Illuminated M1/M2 button panel and the rear parking sensor switch.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1493917
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      02-01-2020, 06:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewc89 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
You can buy a used M2 cluster and just keep it, you don't even need to recode it. Just match the original part number.

So if they ever need to do any programming, you need reinstall it before they complete the process.

There are a couple of threads on the subject in the M4 section, when I locate them, I'll PM them to you so you can read up.
Since you mentioned the same issue with your idrive controller I'm wondering if the same potential issue could arise with my euro fog light switch, Illuminated M1/M2 button panel and the rear parking sensor switch.
I have the Euro switch also, that wasn't a problem, they gave me the car back with an error for the switch, since the vehicle software update reverted it back the original, non-Euro switch mapping and didn't say anything, so wasn't an issue.

I can't speak on the PDC switch or the M1/M2 buttons but I'm going to assume those wouldn't be an issue either.

However, the iDrive controller has its own, unique control unit, so is the iDrive itself and HVAC unit.

Think, any part with it's own control unit needs to be original, factory unit.

So something like the instrument cluster would have its own control unit, so that would also fall under this category.

I hope this makes sense to you.
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      02-01-2020, 06:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
I have the Euro switch also, that wasn't a problem, they gave me the car back with an error for the switch, since the vehicle software updated to the original, non-Euro switch mapping and didn't say anything, so wasn't an issue.

I can't speak on the PDC switch or the M1/M2 buttons but I'm going to assume those wouldn't be an issue either.

However, the iDrive controller has its own, unique control unit, so is the iDrive itself and HVAC unit.

Think, any part with it's own control unit needs to be original, factory unit.

So something like the instrument cluster would have its own control unit, so that would also fall under this category.

I hope this makes sense to you.
Yup, that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the explanation.

Side note: I had the car in for service work with all my coding and mods recently (faulty eccentric shaft actuator) and there wasn't any issue having the part replaced. I guess there wasn't a software update needed, or they were able to only update the required module and didn't have to wipe everything.
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      02-01-2020, 06:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewc89 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
I have the Euro switch also, that wasn't a problem, they gave me the car back with an error for the switch, since the vehicle software updated to the original, non-Euro switch mapping and didn't say anything, so wasn't an issue.

I can't speak on the PDC switch or the M1/M2 buttons but I'm going to assume those wouldn't be an issue either.

However, the iDrive controller has its own, unique control unit, so is the iDrive itself and HVAC unit.

Think, any part with it's own control unit needs to be original, factory unit.

So something like the instrument cluster would have its own control unit, so that would also fall under this category.

I hope this makes sense to you.
Yup, that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the explanation.

Side note: I had the car in for service work with all my coding and mods recently (faulty eccentric shaft actuator) and there wasn't any issue having the part replaced. I guess there wasn't a software update needed, or they were able to only update the required module and didn't have to wipe everything.
Some dealers don't bother updating the software after replacing the part, which is the proper sanctioned procedure by BMW, or else the fault lingers in the vehicle's EEPROM.

For instance, BMW of Freeport in Long Island NY, replaced the controller and did not program it.

So when I got home and I ran the ISTA+ program and it was still showing an error. I went back to them and explain that vehicle is showing error and they need to program it properly to the replacement controller. They looked at me liked I had a third ass cheek, confused

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=25278511

So I when to the dealer I originally purchased my vehicle, BMW of Ramsey in NJ, formally Prestige BMW and they did the proper programming and cleared the error.

Long story longer, all dealers are not the same, some do ghetto work and send you on your way. If I wasn't this anal, I probably wouldn't of noticed but that's who I am.
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      02-02-2020, 11:11 AM   #17
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On cloudy days visibility was appalling on stock cluster and in UK that's most days.

Though I didn't mind the look too much the updated cluster is much easier to view.
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      03-25-2020, 06:57 PM   #18
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If I install the old cluster will it work/car be driveable seeing as it's currently coded to LCI?

Also is this tampering with mileage or is that stored somewhere centrally and not on the cluster itself? (I.e cluster acts as display for mileage only)

Because otherwise I can potentially reinstall the old cluster myself and drive to the garage save them time to do the software update as they'd only need to swap clusters once not twice.
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      04-19-2020, 06:59 AM   #19
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Maybe this is why the power fold mirrors and switch I retrofitted don't work except to cause a clicking sound in the dash, and the vehicle configuration menu to start up (which lacks the options required).
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      04-19-2020, 02:06 PM   #20
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Not sure re mirrors.

Thor the M flasher seems a way around getting a garage to faff around with the cluster again

Especially in lock down. Then again I can't take the car for a proper drive so what's the point!?

Something to do I suppose...
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      05-18-2020, 10:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
I have the Euro switch also, that wasn't a problem, they gave me the car back with an error for the switch, since the vehicle software update reverted it back the original, non-Euro switch mapping and didn't say anything, so wasn't an issue.
My dealership tried to give me shit about my Euro tail lights when they were trying to re-code after replacing my iDrive screen (it was "touching itself").

But they were wrong - it was not the Euro tails, it was my Euro lightswitch. They said it may have caused them problems and weren't entirely sure if everything coded correctly. So now I'm in a habit of swapping the switch out before going to the dealer. This is irritating, because it requires a coding tweak each time it's swapped - if you don't recode the car for the specific type of switch that is attached, the FEM_Body complains that the "wrong" switch is installed, and the dealer complains about that error instead. So, if I take out the Euro switch and put back in the US-spec one, but don't get out a computer and recode FEM_Body with that change, the dealer sees an error saying the switch is "wrong" (because the car is still coded for Euro switch but it's reading a US switch).

Because I'm too lazy to pull out the computer and Enet cable and worry about remembering exactly how to make the coding change, I currently still have the US-spec switch in the car... but my US-spec switch has been physically modded so the unmarked button triggers the rear fog.

Quote:
I can't speak on the PDC switch or the M1/M2 buttons but I'm going to assume those wouldn't be an issue either.
The PDC button does nothing, I put mine in a week after I got the car and nobody said anything nor has the dealership ever showed any problems from it.

I don't see the point of putting in M1/M2 if they don't function.
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      05-18-2020, 10:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZPrime View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
I have the Euro switch also, that wasn't a problem, they gave me the car back with an error for the switch, since the vehicle software update reverted it back the original, non-Euro switch mapping and didn't say anything, so wasn't an issue.
My dealership tried to give me shit about my Euro tail lights when they were trying to re-code after replacing my iDrive screen (it was "touching itself").

But they were wrong - it was not the Euro tails, it was my Euro lightswitch. They said it may have caused them problems and weren't entirely sure if everything coded correctly. So now I'm in a habit of swapping the switch out before going to the dealer. This is irritating, because it requires a coding tweak each time it's swapped - if you don't recode the car for the correct lightswitch, the FEM_Body complains that the wrong switch is installed, and the dealer complains about that instead.

Quote:
I can't speak on the PDC switch or the M1/M2 buttons but I'm going to assume those wouldn't be an issue either.
The PDC button does nothing, I put mine in a week after I got the car and nobody said anything nor has the dealership ever showed any problems from it.

I don't see the point of putting in M1/M2 if they don't function.
That's odd, they updated my software, after an iDrive controller replacement and didn't say anything about my switch or the Euro switch coding.

I do know that the system does block a software update, if it doesn't detect all the factory modules installed, so they aren't BSing you there..

This is noted in the ISTA software.
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