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      04-19-2016, 09:00 PM   #1
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JRC Exhaust Valve Delete mod

JRC exhaust valve delete mod

Unlike the f80/f82, our f87 only has one exhaust valve proximal to the driver’s side exhaust tips. When you first start the car, you’ll notice it has that burbly tone but after ~30 seconds the sound becomes more subdued— thats the transition from open valve to closed valve. You can read up elsewhere on the forum about when/why the valves open/close in different driving conditions/modes.

Personally, I wanted the valves open all the time. I drove the first 100 miles in Sport 90% of the time, and then got the JRC exhaust valve delete kit developed for the f80/f82. There is a pretty simple youtube video for the install
. The kit essentially comes with a male and female connector to plug what was just disconnected (oem bmw connectors). Since the f80/f82 kit comes with 4 plugs for 2 valves, just get the 2 series kit that has one pair for 1 valve. The one difference from the M3/M4 that I will mention when installing this, the f87 valve is located just beyond a bend so its hard to get to with a screwdriver if you want to manually push it open. So before disconnecting the valve, put it in sport+, give it some revs, then turn the motor off to keep the valve in the open position. If you look through the medial exhaust tip on the drivers side with a penlight, you should see a sliver of the valve in the open position. Its a terrible pic, but its that sliver just beyond the bend. Easier to see IRL.

As far as being able to adjust it on the fly, there is CG Precision VSC-1 that is plug-n-play and confirmed to work on our f87, but is ~ 200$. Theres the Macht Schnell EVC module, that hasn’t been confirmed for the f87 and is ~$500 and requires splicing into obd2. Theres the BMS can flap module which is ~$280 and plug-n-play, but unconfirmed for f87. If there are any i'm missing, or the aforementioned have been tried on the f87, please post!

Overall, theres more gurble and pop in the low end when revs are coming down. I can’t tell any difference under load with higher speeds (perhaps bc the valves are usually programmed to be open then), but just putzing around town the Braap-gurble-brap is more prominent. Its too cheap and reversible not to try.

pros:
-cheap, 3 minute install
-reversible
-no check engine light/errors
-no drone
-no damage to exposed wires/connectors

cons:
-cannot open/close valves on the fly
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Last edited by supersam; 04-19-2016 at 09:48 PM.. Reason: adding picture of valve
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      04-19-2016, 09:35 PM   #2
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Maybe this exhaust valve explains why my passenger side exhaust tips are all black but my driver's side are clean.
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      04-22-2016, 10:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDM_macchina
Maybe this exhaust valve explains why my passenger side exhaust tips are all black but my driver's side are clean.
Yes, that means the way you are driving (due to driving mode and / or throttle / rpm you tend to drive at) is keeping the valve closed most of the time, and thus more quite.

Just to clear something up on the op's post, all the other cars close the valve on startup, I'm pretty sure the f87 is like this too. The reason you hear louder at startup and then quieter later, is actually because the wastegate is open to bypass exhaust gas around the turbocharger, to heat up the catalyst faster. So if you open the valve on startup, it will be even louder than the pen car, which is still a bit louder on startup due to the above reason. Can someone confirm if the valve is closed on startup with the f87? You should be able to see with a flashlight and feel the change in exhaust flow on the left tips.
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      04-23-2016, 05:24 PM   #4
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Thanks man just ordered one I'll see how it sounds. I like the first 30 seconds of start up then gets a bit quiet!

Link if anyone wants to order only 25$ shipped..

http://jrc-designs.com/charter-packa...n-m-234-series
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      04-24-2016, 02:32 AM   #5
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Is this the valve that opens with the sports setting or something else for cold start? Just to make sure I understood this correctly, the value in this mod is to have the exhaust in sport mode regardless of the drive mode?
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      04-24-2016, 08:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myk
Is this the valve that opens with the sports setting or something else for cold start? Just to make sure I understood this correctly, the value in this mod is to have the exhaust in sport mode regardless of the drive mode?
Yes it's to keep the valve open all times. You have to open it first though then disconnect and use the female connection.
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      04-24-2016, 01:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersam
JRC exhaust valve delete mod

Unlike the f80/f82, our f87 only has one exhaust valve proximal to the driver’s side exhaust tips. When you first start the car, you’ll notice it has that burbly tone but after ~30 seconds the sound becomes more subdued— thats the transition from open valve to closed valve. You can read up elsewhere on the forum about when/why the valves open/close in different driving conditions/modes.

Personally, I wanted the valves open all the time. I drove the first 100 miles in Sport 90% of the time, and then got the JRC exhaust valve delete kit developed for the f80/f82. There is a pretty simple youtube video for the install
. The kit essentially comes with a male and female connector to plug what was just disconnected (oem bmw connectors). Since the f80/f82 kit comes with 4 plugs for 2 valves, just get the 2 series kit that has one pair for 1 valve. The one difference from the M3/M4 that I will mention when installing this, the f87 valve is located just beyond a bend so its hard to get to with a screwdriver if you want to manually push it open. So before disconnecting the valve, put it in sport+, give it some revs, then turn the motor off to keep the valve in the open position. If you look through the medial exhaust tip on the drivers side with a penlight, you should see a sliver of the valve in the open position. Its a terrible pic, but its that sliver just beyond the bend. Easier to see IRL.

As far as being able to adjust it on the fly, there is CG Precision VSC-1 that is plug-n-play and confirmed to work on our f87, but is ~ 200$. Theres the Macht Schnell EVC module, that hasn’t been confirmed for the f87 and is ~$500 and requires splicing into obd2. Theres the BMS can flap module which is ~$280 and plug-n-play, but unconfirmed for f87. If there are any i'm missing, or the aforementioned have been tried on the f87, please post!

Overall, theres more gurble and pop in the low end when revs are coming down. I can’t tell any difference under load with higher speeds (perhaps bc the valves are usually programmed to be open then), but just putzing around town the Braap-gurble-brap is more prominent. Its too cheap and reversible not to try.

pros:
-cheap, 3 minute install
-reversible
-no check engine light/errors
-no drone
-no damage to exposed wires/connectors

cons:
-cannot open/close valves on the fly
Thanks guys. Question. I simply just unplugged the valve today to see if anything popped up. No lights, or warnings. Why do I need this? Should I expect a code thrown?
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      04-24-2016, 01:16 PM   #8
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This mod just caps off both ends so no pins or anything bends. You can technically just unplug and tuck away but could possibly bend a pin while exposed. Or short out if gets went maybe?!
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      04-24-2016, 01:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shemeld_135
This mod just caps off both ends so no pins or anything bends. You can technically just unplug and tuck away but could possibly bend a pin while exposed. Or short out if gets went maybe?!
Yeah I think it's a proper solution. I just used latex and electrical tape to cap them. Zip ties to hold. I'll see how it goes
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      05-02-2016, 07:23 PM   #10
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Do you really need to open the valve first manually? The online directions at JRC make no mention of this.
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      05-02-2016, 08:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyrat 2
Do you really need to open the valve first manually? The online directions at JRC make no mention of this.
I couldn't see it opened or closed by looking so I just "opened" it based on how it sounded. Put it in sport+ drove it around the block to make sure it opened and shut her down and did it
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      05-02-2016, 08:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyrat 2 View Post
Do you really need to open the valve first manually? The online directions at JRC make no mention of this.
Opening it manually will not work given the location of the valve past a bend. its hard to visualize but the direction to look is through the medial drivers side tailpipe, with your eye near the 7 o'clock position looking deep and diagonally towards the 2 o'clock position.

Best method to open it: start it, put it in Sport+, Rev her up and shut it down.
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      05-02-2016, 09:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersam View Post
Opening it manually will not work given the location of the valve past a bend. its hard to visualize but the direction to look is through the medial drivers side tailpipe, with your eye near the 7 o'clock position looking deep and diagonally towards the 2 o'clock position.

Best method to open it: start it, put it in Sport+, Rev her up and shut it down.
I probably wasn't clear in my post. I was asking whether that step is required at all as there is no reference on the JRC site of having to do anything special to make sure the flap was in the open position.
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      05-02-2016, 10:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyrat 2 View Post
I probably wasn't clear in my post. I was asking whether that step is required at all as there is no reference on the JRC site of having to do anything special to make sure the flap was in the open position.
Yes, it's required. I'd emailed the JRC store owner, who confirmed it's a necessary step, because like you I wasn't sure and wanted to confirm
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      05-05-2016, 09:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersam View Post
Opening it manually will not work given the location of the valve past a bend. its hard to visualize but the direction to look is through the medial drivers side tailpipe, with your eye near the 7 o'clock position looking deep and diagonally towards the 2 o'clock position.

Best method to open it: start it, put it in Sport+, Rev her up and shut it down.
My Valve delete is arriving today; silly silly question...can I do this without getting the car on a lift/jacking it up???

TIA

-c
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      05-05-2016, 10:08 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pup73
Quote:
Originally Posted by supersam View Post
Opening it manually will not work given the location of the valve past a bend. its hard to visualize but the direction to look is through the medial drivers side tailpipe, with your eye near the 7 o'clock position looking deep and diagonally towards the 2 o'clock position.

Best method to open it: start it, put it in Sport+, Rev her up and shut it down.
My Valve delete is arriving today; silly silly question...can I do this without getting the car on a lift/jacking it up???

TIA

-c
You don't need a jack per se. I didn't need one, but it might be hard if you're a big guy (girth wise). Safely puttin a jack at driver-rear would help though
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      05-05-2016, 12:18 PM   #17
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Is the valve always open in sport+ or just at certain rpms? Just wondering if it's worth doing this as I only drive in sport+ anyway.
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      05-05-2016, 03:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeCrush View Post
Is the valve always open in sport+ or just at certain rpms? Just wondering if it's worth doing this as I only drive in sport+ anyway.
I *assume* it's always open in Sport+, that's why we should start the car in Sport+ before installing the mod

-c

EDIT- Just did the install, takes literally a minute or two. Only thing is, I can't tell a difference?!? In Sport and Sport+ mode I still get that lovely burble/burping when letting of the gas in lower gears. But in Comfort mode, sounds awfully quiet. I think I followed the instructions correctly (ie I started the car up in Sport+ and gave it some revs to open up the valve).

oh well

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Last edited by pup73; 05-05-2016 at 04:15 PM..
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      05-06-2016, 07:02 PM   #19
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Trying to understand this method more compared to just buying an MPE.

Besides the ludicrous price. Is the difference between this "hack" and MPE is that you have a bluetooth to open and close the valves?
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      05-06-2016, 07:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dammitcubs View Post
Trying to understand this method more compared to just buying an MPE.

Besides the ludicrous price. Is the difference between this "hack" and MPE is that you have a bluetooth to open and close the valves?
The MPE sounds better but it's still overpriced. Only good thing about the MPE is the warranty, that's it.
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      05-06-2016, 07:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SliChillax View Post
The MPE sounds better but it's still overpriced. Only good thing about the MPE is the warranty, that's it.
I did enjoy the sound the MPE, but that was from youtube. I need to hear it in person if i'm gonna spend that kind of cash. probably the last thing mod I do to this car is the exhaust.
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      05-06-2016, 07:53 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SliChillax View Post
The MPE sounds better but it's still overpriced. Only good thing about the MPE is the warranty, that's it.
talk to your service advisor.. most are cool with just an aftermarket exhaust. aka your warranty still stands on everything else besides the modded part (upstream problems should not be blamed on something like a catback exhaust). A downpipe, on the other hand, might not be so cut and dry since it does more directly affect turbo spool.
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