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      01-16-2020, 07:43 PM   #67
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Why’d the rotor have to come off?
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      01-17-2020, 12:40 AM   #68
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Can you post pics of the rollbar installation?

Your previous alignment was wack!
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      01-17-2020, 09:55 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Why’d the rotor have to come off?
Was informed that it made room, made things easier, lightened up the components to work with, etc.. Made it simpler.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarnigle View Post
Can you post pics of the rollbar installation?

Your previous alignment was wack!
Not a lot of "install pix" were taken - but I did snap a couple to share with Studio RSR.

The install video they have is of an M4 (four doors). It's a bit different with just two doors.

RSR also doesn't expect you to put the side bolsters of the back seats or the seat belt covers back in. I wanted to keep it as "stock" as I could. I think they expect you to put in the seat delete - I'm not paying a bunch of bucks for a piece of pressboard covered in Ozite.

First thing was to cut a clearance notch so the top bolster attachment hole was accessible again. Cutting this plate where I did does absolutely NOTHING in damaging structure or strength. The tab just hangs over the lip that the seat belt attaches to and the mounting point for the down bars is the seat belt mount - you can see the hole at the back.



Then I trimmed the seat belt covers:



Stuck them back in, marked the bolsters and didn't quite take enough angle into account - both holes ended up being a tad biased outward so the fit left a small gap as seen in the pix below:





RSR wants an X cut into the carpet where the legs of the main hoop mount. They just tucked the ends up against the legs and I thought it looked a tad unfinished.

I went about it a bit differently (as usual...) and tried to make the fit "more better". My cut outs ended up being about 1/2" forward of where they needed to be but I was able to cheat it out and trim the pucks I pulled out and fit them into the gaps:





Here are the gaps at the rear cage where it goes into the bolsters:



Yes, that's a grinder slip. While cutting the clearance hole of course the cut off wheel caught and scraped the powder coating off of the bottom of the down bar. Crap happens.



At least my consistency at missing is the same - just a quarter inch.
If someone's going to take enough time to look in and state that I missed I'll just kick 'em in the shins and say "You go do it by yourself."



----

Yes, previous alignment was completely dorked. Looks like I need to go on a little solo breakfast run in the twisties and see how things feel now this morning.
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      01-17-2020, 10:45 AM   #70
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Super clean cage install. Bravo.
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      01-18-2020, 10:19 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Super clean cage install. Bravo.
Thank you, thank you very much. (in my best Elvis, of course!)
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      01-19-2020, 04:34 AM   #72
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Does the main hoop drill into the floor with plates, or does it bolt to an existing location (like the seatbelt mounts).
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      01-19-2020, 08:47 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarnigle View Post
Does the main hoop drill into the floor with plates, or does it bolt to an existing location (like the seatbelt mounts).
The former. Not ideal, but aside from that they build a nice cage.
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      01-20-2020, 02:07 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarnigle View Post
Does the main hoop drill into the floor with plates, or does it bolt to an existing location (like the seatbelt mounts).
As stated above.
Rear down bars bolt into the seat belt retractor mounts, using the OEM fasteners and the legs are held in with three nut/bolt/washer. You drill three holes in the floorboard for each leg - outer rear is not mounted.

There are three or four 8mm head screws on the bottom of the car and five or six push pin retaining clips along the bottom edge of the belly pan just at the rear of the door - pull them and then pull down on the belly panel (discovered some swearing seems to help at times) and you can get to the location of the nuts. It's a tight fit but doable.

They supply nice zinc coated Grade 8 hardware and large washers to spread the load over the floor. Only thing I'd change is going to a shorter bolt than they supply - about half an inch of thread is just sticking out and there for nothing more than threading over. As a rule, you only need 1.5 to 2 threads extending out of the nut.
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      03-06-2020, 09:14 AM   #75
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Looking forward to tomorrow: Have an HPDE day at Arizona Motorsports Park (gonna be busy too - have two students, one's a friend who'll be driving my car. She's excited!).

I'm really excited to see how the new set of Ohlins and CORRECT camber & toe settings work. New rubber, new dampers, new settings - woo hoo! (:

In the process of securing a Cobra Nogaro seat so I can take advantage of my harness. It doesn't work safely with the OEM seat.
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      03-06-2020, 09:36 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
The settings up front were WAAAYY off.

Looks like the company I use had no clue (and I will admit I kind of wondered - I felt like I understood the system better than the guy running it - who was not the regular guy) Camber was at 3.4 and toe was in three degrees. Explains the sever cording.

Aligned on the latest Hawk-Eye system:

Car is now set at 3 degrees camber, zero toe front
1.9 camber, presently mentally blank on toe in - 1 degree or did he say 1.8...
And now that I type this I realize I didn't get a sheet from this guy either (although I trust him - It's very obvious he does know his stuff.)
3 DEGREES OF TOE? Good lord I hope you meant 3 tenths...

Interesting thread, seems like a knowledgeable lot here. Only experience I have with the R888 is that they're LOUD on the dyno, almost louder than the exhaust of the car we had in the shop. Is it the same in the car?
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      03-06-2020, 09:41 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
Looking forward to tomorrow: Have an HPDE day at Arizona Motorsports Park (gonna be busy too - have two students, one's a friend who'll be driving my car. She's excited!).

I'm really excited to see how the new set of Ohlins and CORRECT camber & toe settings work. New rubber, new dampers, new settings - woo hoo! (:

In the process of securing a Cobra Nogaro seat so I can take advantage of my harness. It doesn't work safely with the OEM seat.
I LOVE AMP.
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      03-06-2020, 04:33 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conissah View Post
3 DEGREES OF TOE? Good lord I hope you meant 3 tenths...

Interesting thread, seems like a knowledgeable lot here. Only experience I have with the R888 is that they're LOUD on the dyno, almost louder than the exhaust of the car we had in the shop. Is it the same in the car?
I'm almost positive they said degrees.
Regardless, it was WAY off.

Yup - they are loud everywhere.
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      03-06-2020, 05:08 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
I'm almost positive they said degrees.
Regardless, it was WAY off.

Yup - they are loud everywhere.
Are you running spacers up front for extra clearance or do the Apex clear the Ohlins no issue? I'm considering Ohlins (had them on my M3), but JRZ RSOne's are effectively the same price with camber plates which definitely don't have clearance issues.
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      03-07-2020, 06:53 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montaver View Post
Are you running spacers up front for extra clearance or do the Apex clear the Ohlins no issue? I'm considering Ohlins (had them on my M3), but JRZ RSOne's are effectively the same price with camber plates which definitely don't have clearance issues.
Yes. Apex wheels, Ohlins struts & Ground Control camber plates.
No rubbing anywhere.
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      03-07-2020, 09:19 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Montaver View Post
Are you running spacers up front for extra clearance or do the Apex clear the Ohlins no issue? I'm considering Ohlins (had them on my M3), but JRZ RSOne's are effectively the same price with camber plates which definitely don't have clearance issues.
Yes. Apex wheels, Ohlins struts & Ground Control camber plates.
No rubbing anywhere.
Are you running ohlins r&t? Do they fit the oem top hats?

I have a set of tc kline plates with the oem strut adapter on them, so I was curious if the ohlins would mount up.

Thanks.
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      03-07-2020, 04:46 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
Yes. Apex wheels, Ohlins struts & Ground Control camber plates.
No rubbing anywhere.
Interesting, how much camber are you running? tire width / brand? - Looks like 888, and -2.8?

Edit - are you using the standard spring setup or are those custom?

Appreciate it!
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      03-07-2020, 10:51 PM   #83
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What is your rear seat still doing in the car with that cage? You will drop 60lbs taking it out...
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      03-08-2020, 11:14 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Are you running ohlins r&t? Do they fit the oem top hats?

I have a set of tc kline plates with the oem strut adapter on them, so I was curious if the ohlins would mount up.

Thanks.
Yes, using the R&T setup. Can't tell if you they use the OEM top hats or not - I have Ground Control camber plates and I believe all the upper spring stuff was changed with the Ohlins kit. Can't hold me to that though, as I didn't do the work. 95% of the time I'm totally hands on and the one doing the work but I'm tired of working on street stuff. I wanna get it, hit the key, go play.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Montaver View Post
Interesting, how much camber are you running? tire width / brand? - Looks like 888, and -2.8?

Edit - are you using the standard spring setup or are those custom?

Appreciate it!
Car is now set at 3 degrees camber, zero toe front
1.9 camber, toe in - 1 degree. Yes, Toyo R888R sneakers. The springs came with the Ohilns.

I kept a pretty close eye on temps across the tire's face (Longacre gauge with pyro temp sensor - http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...auge-0-100-psi) and was pleased with the consistency of the measured temps (140ish outer to 155ish inner tread temps up front, 150-155 rear).

Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
What is your rear seat still doing in the car with that cage? You will drop 60lbs taking it out...
Two aspects.
First, I wanted to keep the back interior of the car for aesthetics. That'll probably change as I move onward with the car. It's only 6 months old with 3100 miles (of which around a third are track) so I'm not quite ready to start yanking out and shelving stuff.

I know I can loose quite a bit of weight removing it but I don't care to spend close to 2K for a sheet of press board covered in Ozite for the "back seat delete".

I'm capable of doing the seat delete on my own, just don't have the time/desire to spend on it right now - that's all taken up with my present (5 year long) project in the pic below. Once it's done I'll probably direct more attention to the M2.



-------------------

New suspension - Thoughts and observations.
With the stock suspension, coming out of turn 8 and into 9 at AMP there are chatter bumps and it's slightly off camber. The back end was twitchy, skittish and never felt planted at all.

I had a student with an M4 that has adjustable ride suspension (guessing magnetically controlled - I'm not up on BMW's technology - still new to it) and it was silky smooth over the section and felt very compliant and planted.

My car, with the Ohlins now, feels the same way. It was stuck down, planted and put the power down w/o getting all skittish.

Cornering seems much better too - more confidence going into them and less understeer unless pushed. The balance is better. I can stick/slip either end as desired with a little pedal dancing (left foot braking helps SO much in being able to overlap inputs for chassis balancing).

Back end seems much more planted too - still seems like I get oversteer pretty badly on throttle & exit but that's all controllable with my right ankle. Do have to admit that the four wheel drift at 80+ out of a couple of the corners at AMP are a lot of fun.

I'm impressed with just how controllable the M2 is even when the tail is out wagging in the breeze like a happy puppy.

Overall I'm VERY pleased with what I've done to the car for the track.

I do have one complaint/desire to change: My brakes are great, no issues (Pagid yellows), would just like something a tad more "personalized".

They stop well, have good modulation, blah, blah. What I'd like, though, is a bit more pedal meaning I wish it would stiffen up sooner in the throw and have a more solid feeling.

The pedal has a soft zone when initially stepping on it and then once it gets into the braking area of it's throw, it's on the softer side with a tad more travel than I'd like. Gives me a mushy feeling with less modulation feel than I'd like.

I'd prefer a slightly stiffer pedal with less throw - What'd I'd do in my off road stuff to solve this would be to up the piston size in the master cylinder and change the ratio between the pedal and the pucks along with adjust the pedal throw and where it enters the brake pressure zone.
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      03-08-2020, 11:19 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
What is your rear seat still doing in the car with that cage? You will drop 60lbs taking it out...
The rear seat weighs 60lbs? Pulled mine out when doing some wiring and it didn't seem that heavy. Maybe 25lbs? Dunno, maybe I'm just super buff. (definitely not)
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      03-08-2020, 12:37 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
I had a student with an M4 that has adjustable ride suspension (guessing magnetically controlled - I'm not up on BMW's technology - still new to it) and it was silky smooth over the section and felt very compliant and planted.
It's a monotube damper that adjusts via traditional methods (valve orifice sizes) and not magnetorheological.

Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
I do have one complaint/desire to change: My brakes are great, no issues (Pagid yellows), would just like something a tad more "personalized".

They stop well, have good modulation, blah, blah. What I'd like, though, is a bit more pedal meaning I wish it would stiffen up sooner in the throw and have a more solid feeling.

The pedal has a soft zone when initially stepping on it and then once it gets into the braking area of it's throw, it's on the softer side with a tad more travel than I'd like. Gives me a mushy feeling with less modulation feel than I'd like.

I'd prefer a slightly stiffer pedal with less throw - What'd I'd do in my off road stuff to solve this would be to up the piston size in the master cylinder and change the ratio between the pedal and the pucks along with adjust the pedal throw and where it enters the brake pressure zone.
Pagid RSL29s defintely lack bite and require a long pedal throw before they really start to grab and slow the car down. Moving to a different pad compound (like PFC08) will provide more immediate grab and feedback. When I first made the switch from RSL29 to PFC08 I kept pushing the pedal in like I did with the RSL29s, and ended up engaging ABS with the PFC08s till I learned their behavior.
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      03-08-2020, 12:45 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Are you running ohlins r&t? Do they fit the oem top hats?

I have a set of tc kline plates with the oem strut adapter on them, so I was curious if the ohlins would mount up.

Thanks.
Ohlins use the OE top mounts (front and rear). They come with an adapter that sits against the OE top mount thrust bearing that necks down the spring size (IIRC they use 65mm springs).
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      03-08-2020, 12:58 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Are you running ohlins r&t? Do they fit the oem top hats?

I have a set of tc kline plates with the oem strut adapter on them, so I was curious if the ohlins would mount up.

Thanks.
Ohlins use the OE top mounts (front and rear). They come with an adapter that sits against the OE top mount thrust bearing that necks down the spring size (IIRC they use 65mm springs).
Thanks. So with that said, they should be able to mate up with my TC Kline plates.
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