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      06-28-2021, 04:30 PM   #1
JordanB
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Novice track driver suspension and tire questions

Hi. Have an m2c and had a few questions (below) re suspension/tires for a novice track driver that is eager to learn.

For context, I started autocrossing last year and just did my first HPDE. Definitely caught the bug and am eager for more. And to the obvious, yes, I know that I should invest in training/events rather than kit. The below will not change my track time either way.

Would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.




1. Camber. For a novice, is it worth adding camber plates now to save on tires?

2. Suspension. If am paying for labor of installing camber plates, should I go ahead and do coilovers with integrated camber plates rather than buying separately and needing to upgrade down the road. I also have the car in NYC often so wouldn’t want to lower much regardless.

3. Tires. I am planning to get 2nd set of wheels for winter/snow tires anyway. Is it worth getting a square set up to run on street and track? Not focused on lap times, and wondering if will get more life out of tires from being able to rotate. Was thinking about doing the Apex 9.5” square with 265/30/19.
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      06-28-2021, 04:40 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanB View Post
1. Camber. For a novice, is it worth adding camber plates now to save on tires?

2. Suspension. If am paying for labor of installing camber plates, should I go ahead and do coilovers with integrated camber plates rather than buying separately and needing to upgrade down the road. I also have the car in NYC often so wouldn’t want to lower much regardless.

3. Tires. I am planning to get 2nd set of wheels for winter/snow tires anyway. Is it worth getting a square set up to run on street and track? Not focused on lap times, and wondering if will get more life out of tires from being able to rotate. Was thinking about doing the Apex 9.5” square with 265/30/19.
1) Yes! Grab Millway street plates for a great all arounder for street and track.

2) Installing camber plates is very fast compared to doing the whole suspension for coilovers. I'd just focus on the plates for now till you've figured out exactly how the stock suspension is lacking and know what you're looking for in an aftermarket setup.

3) A square set will last longer, but it's better to have one set of wheels/tires for the street and another set for the track. Street tires don't hold up well on track, square or not.
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      06-28-2021, 08:29 PM   #3
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For a rookie you don’t need to do anything. Learn your car and how it handles before you mod out. Improving your skills will do more for you than molding your M2.

I have done many HPDE with BMWCCA with my stock M2.

Last edited by DanG; 07-02-2021 at 06:52 PM..
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      06-30-2021, 09:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanG View Post
For a rookie you don’t need to do anything. Learn your car and how it handles before you mod out. Improving your stills will do more for you than molding your M2.

I have done many HPDE with BMWCCA with my stock M2.
I second this! I am a novice track junkie too!!

Try with stock setup and see if you love going to track or auto X.

Then start with brake lines, fluid, pads and work your way up to those 3 things

Last edited by Sungillest; 06-30-2021 at 10:24 AM..
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      06-30-2021, 10:23 AM   #5
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I’m reading the OP as “I’m already hooked, how do I set up the car to do more track days?”

From that perspective, I agree with FaRKle! overall, but would probably get track pads and high performance brake fluid before camber plates. While brake lines do make a difference on the M2, it’s subtle and probably not worthwhile upfront.

Camber plates would be the next priority though. If you plan to be competitive in AutoX, keep in mind that camber plates may bump you up to a modified class, as could non-stock wheel sizes.

With pads, fluid, camber plates and a good alignment you’ll have a very quick, reliable and safe car to learn from. Not much else is needed at this point, even as you progress. I drove my M2 in this state for the first two years and it performed very well.

It’ll probably take a few events to work up to both these items being truly needed, but depends on the track and how aggressive you are as a driver. So if you’re easing into things, you could probably do a few events and gradually make changes to the car as you reach the limits of the stock setup.

I do disagree a bit with Farkle a bit on tires though-I’d do your first 1/2 dozen or so street tires like the Michelin PSS/PS4S, or Continental ECS. The lower limits will allow you to get to know the chassis better. With a good alignment, you should be able to get at least the 1/2 dozen days I’m recommending from a set and then you can reassess. I wouldn’t rush into 200TW or lower tires, but when you’re able to drive these OE level tires near their limits you may find it necessary. You’ll know when you’re there as the tires will start to show signs of overheating- chunking, bubbling, bluing, or greasing up on track. Added advantage being you can just drive too and from the track and not have to switch wheels/tires in the paddock. Focus on yourself for a while. Extract logistics are just a distraction from learning.
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      07-01-2021, 06:57 PM   #6
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Very much appreciate the responses.

And yes bentom2 -- am already hooked and trying to think ahead if camber or square setup would save $ on tires over time. Also, am definitely planning to stick with street tires that will also use for AX/track.
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      07-01-2021, 07:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanB View Post
Very much appreciate the responses.

And yes bentom2 -- am already hooked and trying to think ahead if camber or square setup would save $ on tires over time. Also, am definitely planning to stick with street tires that will also use for AX/track.
Wow, lots of typos in my last response.

I was able to get a couple extra days through frequent tire rotations on a square setup vs staggered with the same tire. It’ll save you money, but also will change the handling balance of the car.

I enjoyed the handling, but others seem to find the balance a bit too tail happy.

I eventually switched back to staggered when I installed coilovers as they too changed the balance of the car.
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      07-21-2021, 03:37 PM   #8
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Imo, just drive the car.

Change suspensions and tires when you have many hours on track.

Reason why you shouldn't directly jump to high per. Tires is the high speed they provide, and IF/WHEN you lose control you cant handle it.
So for a novice i advice Michelin pilot sport 4s, they will last many many trackdays and provide good grip for you to learn the car.
If you go with Cup 2's you get more grip for sure, but when you lose it, you lose it.
Also, dont worry about the brakes. Youre driving a modern day M car ffs. The brakes wont fade that fast no matter what ppl say.
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      07-21-2021, 05:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICantDrive4Sht View Post
Imo, just drive the car.

Change suspensions and tires when you have many hours on track.

Reason why you shouldn't directly jump to high per. Tires is the high speed they provide, and IF/WHEN you lose control you cant handle it.
So for a novice i advice Michelin pilot sport 4s, they will last many many trackdays and provide good grip for you to learn the car.
If you go with Cup 2's you get more grip for sure, but when you lose it, you lose it.
Also, dont worry about the brakes. Youre driving a modern day M car ffs. The brakes wont fade that fast no matter what ppl say.
Agree with you on the tires. Start off with the PS4S for a while before considering stickier tires. I beg to differ on the brakes. The stock pads, at least on the OG, are shite. Left huge deposits after 1/2 a track day and were done by end of day 2. Highly recommend upgrading pads and brake fluid.
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      07-22-2021, 02:01 PM   #10
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PFC 08 pads
Motul RBF600 fluid changed regularly

With the M2, it's designed for understeer (especially the heavier M2C). Learning how to minimize by driving style will be great learning before adding an advanced solution like the aggressive alignment that camber plates provide.

Add the mods later, when your lap times have come down and you know your car well at different racetracks. Safety mods, also, are a more sensible first step 😃

There's no perfect way…just opinions! Be safe and Have fun!
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      07-23-2021, 08:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexB77 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ICantDrive4Sht View Post
Imo, just drive the car.

Change suspensions and tires when you have many hours on track.

Reason why you shouldn't directly jump to high per. Tires is the high speed they provide, and IF/WHEN you lose control you cant handle it.
So for a novice i advice Michelin pilot sport 4s, they will last many many trackdays and provide good grip for you to learn the car.
If you go with Cup 2's you get more grip for sure, but when you lose it, you lose it.
Also, dont worry about the brakes. Youre driving a modern day M car ffs. The brakes wont fade that fast no matter what ppl say.
Agree with you on the tires. Start off with the PS4S for a while before considering stickier tires. I beg to differ on the brakes. The stock pads, at least on the OG, are shite. Left huge deposits after 1/2 a track day and were done by end of day 2. Highly recommend upgrading pads and brake fluid.
On og they are shit, yes. But this guy has competition, so if he has the bigger brakes he's absolutelly good with those.
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      07-24-2021, 01:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanB View Post
Hi. Have an m2c and had a few questions (below) re suspension/tires for a novice track driver that is eager to learn.

For context, I started autocrossing last year and just did my first HPDE. Definitely caught the bug and am eager for more. And to the obvious, yes, I know that I should invest in training/events rather than kit. The below will not change my track time either way.

Would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.




1. Camber. For a novice, is it worth adding camber plates now to save on tires?

2. Suspension. If am paying for labor of installing camber plates, should I go ahead and do coilovers with integrated camber plates rather than buying separately and needing to upgrade down the road. I also have the car in NYC often so wouldn't want to lower much regardless.

3. Tires. I am planning to get 2nd set of wheels for winter/snow tires anyway. Is it worth getting a square set up to run on street and track? Not focused on lap times, and wondering if will get more life out of tires from being able to rotate. Was thinking about doing the Apex 9.5" square with 265/30/19.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanB View Post
Hi. Have an m2c and had a few questions (below) re suspension/tires for a novice track driver that is eager to learn.

For context, I started autocrossing last year and just did my first HPDE. Definitely caught the bug and am eager for more. And to the obvious, yes, I know that I should invest in training/events rather than kit. The below will not change my track time either way.

Would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.




1. Camber. For a novice, is it worth adding camber plates now to save on tires?

2. Suspension. If am paying for labor of installing camber plates, should I go ahead and do coilovers with integrated camber plates rather than buying separately and needing to upgrade down the road. I also have the car in NYC often so wouldn't want to lower much regardless.

3. Tires. I am planning to get 2nd set of wheels for winter/snow tires anyway. Is it worth getting a square set up to run on street and track? Not focused on lap times, and wondering if will get more life out of tires from being able to rotate. Was thinking about doing the Apex 9.5" square with 265/30/19.
Im basically at the exact same spot as you and have been asking more experienced people and shops these exact same questions.

Ive considered M Performance coil overs, Ohlins, Broadway, Apex wheels, etc..

Ive decided to go with just ground control camber plates for now and see how much that improves tire wear then go from there.

Here is my tire (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S) from a recent track weekend.
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      07-24-2021, 04:53 PM   #13
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FWIW, here's what I did as a novice. Before my first track event (Daytona road course):

Brake fluid: Castrol SRF
Brake pads: Ferodo DS1.11 front and DS2500 rear. Reason: I didn't want to destroy my stock pads and be in a situation where I had to replace the stock pads right away to drive the car on the street.
Tires: RE71R. Reason: I didn't think Daytona would be manageable for the stock PSSs and, as with the pads, I didn't want to have to buy new street tires after leaving the track. The picture above is what I would have expected of the PSSs after Daytona.

Fast forward to today, after four events, I have stock tires still in good shape (3K miles) and stock brake pads in 1000 miles condition (I run DS2500 on street, the stock pads are stored in a box). I have replaced the front track tires (RE71R again), rears are ok.
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      07-24-2021, 09:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonF30 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanB View Post
Hi. Have an m2c and had a few questions (below) re suspension/tires for a novice track driver that is eager to learn.

For context, I started autocrossing last year and just did my first HPDE. Definitely caught the bug and am eager for more. And to the obvious, yes, I know that I should invest in training/events rather than kit. The below will not change my track time either way.

Would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.




1. Camber. For a novice, is it worth adding camber plates now to save on tires?

2. Suspension. If am paying for labor of installing camber plates, should I go ahead and do coilovers with integrated camber plates rather than buying separately and needing to upgrade down the road. I also have the car in NYC often so wouldn't want to lower much regardless.

3. Tires. I am planning to get 2nd set of wheels for winter/snow tires anyway. Is it worth getting a square set up to run on street and track? Not focused on lap times, and wondering if will get more life out of tires from being able to rotate. Was thinking about doing the Apex 9.5" square with 265/30/19.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanB View Post
Hi. Have an m2c and had a few questions (below) re suspension/tires for a novice track driver that is eager to learn.

For context, I started autocrossing last year and just did my first HPDE. Definitely caught the bug and am eager for more. And to the obvious, yes, I know that I should invest in training/events rather than kit. The below will not change my track time either way.

Would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance.




1. Camber. For a novice, is it worth adding camber plates now to save on tires?

2. Suspension. If am paying for labor of installing camber plates, should I go ahead and do coilovers with integrated camber plates rather than buying separately and needing to upgrade down the road. I also have the car in NYC often so wouldn't want to lower much regardless.

3. Tires. I am planning to get 2nd set of wheels for winter/snow tires anyway. Is it worth getting a square set up to run on street and track? Not focused on lap times, and wondering if will get more life out of tires from being able to rotate. Was thinking about doing the Apex 9.5" square with 265/30/19.
Im basically at the exact same spot as you and have been asking more experienced people and shops these exact same questions.

Ive considered M Performance coil overs, Ohlins, Broadway, Apex wheels, etc..

Ive decided to go with just ground control camber plates for now and see how much that improves tire wear then go from there.

Here is my tire (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S) from a recent track weekend.
Wow, well done! Curious what tire pressures most M2C owners are trying to achieve on track?


To the OP, I'd add this:

Closely monitor tire pressures (and temps with a pyrometer if possible) to ensure you're getting optimal performance and wearing them as evenly as possible.
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      07-25-2021, 06:45 AM   #15
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Excellent advice here. I'll suggest that another excellent upgrade is a harness bar with a 5-point belt system. Not only is it safer, but it will hold you in place much better during high-G turns, improving your car control and reducing fatigue.

Don't forget to have a set of belts for the passenger (instructor) too.
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      07-25-2021, 10:31 AM   #16
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Here are my thoughts, from personal experience:

The M2C is a fantastic track car, even in pure stock form. I did 7 track days on mine, with the only change being I ran Cup 2 tires in the stock sizes. I ran the stock brake pad and fluid. I have 6 years track experience, and run in Intermediate 2 (just below Advanced/Instructor), so I was not babying the car. The stock brake pads held up just fine, but I always did a cool-down lap without using the brakes, so I didn't park the car with super hot rotors. Make sure you don't stop and engage the brakes until the rotors have had a chance to cool down. You should treat a cool-down lap as just that--cool down the brakes. When you get back to the paddock, stop the car and get off the brakes quickly. Either put it in first gear or park, and never set the parking brake--it could melt to the rotor hat. Check your tire pressures as soon as you get out of the car, and bleed air until you have them all at the temps you want them to be when hot. I run the Cup 2's at 35 psi hot.

Now for tires: the M2C really should have been engineered with front camber, but BMW was likely concerned about the street more than the track. No matter what tires you are using, if you are driving the car well, you will cord the outside of your front tires. IMO, if you want to track the car more than just occasionally, you should install camber plates. It will pay for itself in front tires before long. I like the Cup 2 tires--I think they are the best street-legal tire for the track. That said, I only drive them to/from the track. I have them mounted on Oz Hyper GT wheels, and use my stock wheels and tires for the street. The Cup 2's are not great in the rain, so they aren't a viable street option. Plus, it is always good to have a backup set of wheels and tires. I have had days where I corded my track tires, and run the last session or two on my stock wheels and tires. That said, the stock PSS tires are fine on the track--you just can't expect to push them as hard as Cup 2s, or turn the same lap times. But they are still fast and fun.

After one track season on the stock M2C setup, I made the following mods:
Ground Control Camber Plates
Dinan Coilover Suspension
Dinan Sway Bars, front and rear
Dinan Heat Exchanger
Dinan HE+ engine tune
Endless MX-72 brake pads
Castrol SRF brake fluid

I tested the car on the dyno in stock form, and again after the engine mods. Stock whp was 390, and post-tune whp was 470. So I got an 80hp gain at the wheels. There were similar gains in torque. The car is now a monster on the track. BUT...the stock tire sizes could not handle the added power. It was easy to induce oversteer, so you had to be very careful rolling on the throttle at the apex, or the car got loose. My first few track days were frustrating, as I worked to find the right balance and speed. I began to question whether the engine tune was the right choice.

I did a deep dive on this forum and others regarding tire sizes for the car. I ended up going with 265/30-19 in the front, and 295/30-19 in the rear. It turned out to be the solution I was looking for. The car tracks well into corners, and is stable and planted when you get on the throttle coming out of corners. It is the perfect setup, in my opinion. I have two days at Watkins Glen on the new tires, and they look great. Time will tell what the wear rate is on the fronts. I have spoken to M2C guys at the track who run square setups. They like the ability to rotate the tires. In my opinion, BMW engineered the car with a staggered setup, and it works best with that arrangement. Plus, even with camber plates, I expect that the front tires will wear faster than the rears. With a square setup you can rotate the tires and get more track days out of 4 tires. But you will be replacing all 4 when the time comes. With a staggered setup, I was on pace to go through 2 sets of fronts for every set of rears. I would rather run the staggered setup, with the advantages it has with wider rubber in the rear, and just replace the front tires more often. By not rotating front and rear, the rears last twice as long. So I don't think there is a big difference in cost savings, certainly not one that outweighs the performance advantage. But that is just my opinion, and others have valid reasons for going with a square setup. It comes down to personal preference.

Last note about brakes--if you are going to track your car, and you are above the novice level, you will need to go with a better brake pad than the stock one. There are entire threads devoted to that on here, so I will leave that discussion for those.

Have fun tracking your car--it is a total blast, and is what the car was designed for. Start with stock, learn the car's dynamics, improve your driving skills, and worry about modifying the car later. And most of all, have fun!
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      07-27-2021, 06:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenLightGo View Post
Here are my thoughts, from personal experience:

The M2C is a fantastic track car, even in pure stock form. I did 7 track days on mine, with the only change being I ran Cup 2 tires in the stock sizes. I ran the stock brake pad and fluid. I have 6 years track experience, and run in Intermediate 2 (just below Advanced/Instructor), so I was not babying the car. The stock brake pads held up just fine, but I always did a cool-down lap without using the brakes, so I didn't park the car with super hot rotors. Make sure you don't stop and engage the brakes until the rotors have had a chance to cool down. You should treat a cool-down lap as just that--cool down the brakes. When you get back to the paddock, stop the car and get off the brakes quickly. Either put it in first gear or park, and never set the parking brake--it could melt to the rotor hat. Check your tire pressures as soon as you get out of the car, and bleed air until you have them all at the temps you want them to be when hot. I run the Cup 2's at 35 psi hot.

Now for tires: the M2C really should have been engineered with front camber, but BMW was likely concerned about the street more than the track. No matter what tires you are using, if you are driving the car well, you will cord the outside of your front tires. IMO, if you want to track the car more than just occasionally, you should install camber plates. It will pay for itself in front tires before long. I like the Cup 2 tires--I think they are the best street-legal tire for the track. That said, I only drive them to/from the track. I have them mounted on Oz Hyper GT wheels, and use my stock wheels and tires for the street. The Cup 2's are not great in the rain, so they aren't a viable street option. Plus, it is always good to have a backup set of wheels and tires. I have had days where I corded my track tires, and run the last session or two on my stock wheels and tires. That said, the stock PSS tires are fine on the track--you just can't expect to push them as hard as Cup 2s, or turn the same lap times. But they are still fast and fun.

After one track season on the stock M2C setup, I made the following mods:
Ground Control Camber Plates
Dinan Coilover Suspension
Dinan Sway Bars, front and rear
Dinan Heat Exchanger
Dinan HE+ engine tune
Endless MX-72 brake pads
Castrol SRF brake fluid

I tested the car on the dyno in stock form, and again after the engine mods. Stock whp was 390, and post-tune whp was 470. So I got an 80hp gain at the wheels. There were similar gains in torque. The car is now a monster on the track. BUT...the stock tire sizes could not handle the added power. It was easy to induce oversteer, so you had to be very careful rolling on the throttle at the apex, or the car got loose. My first few track days were frustrating, as I worked to find the right balance and speed. I began to question whether the engine tune was the right choice.

I did a deep dive on this forum and others regarding tire sizes for the car. I ended up going with 265/30-19 in the front, and 295/30-19 in the rear. It turned out to be the solution I was looking for. The car tracks well into corners, and is stable and planted when you get on the throttle coming out of corners. It is the perfect setup, in my opinion. I have two days at Watkins Glen on the new tires, and they look great. Time will tell what the wear rate is on the fronts. I have spoken to M2C guys at the track who run square setups. They like the ability to rotate the tires. In my opinion, BMW engineered the car with a staggered setup, and it works best with that arrangement. Plus, even with camber plates, I expect that the front tires will wear faster than the rears. With a square setup you can rotate the tires and get more track days out of 4 tires. But you will be replacing all 4 when the time comes. With a staggered setup, I was on pace to go through 2 sets of fronts for every set of rears. I would rather run the staggered setup, with the advantages it has with wider rubber in the rear, and just replace the front tires more often. By not rotating front and rear, the rears last twice as long. So I don't think there is a big difference in cost savings, certainly not one that outweighs the performance advantage. But that is just my opinion, and others have valid reasons for going with a square setup. It comes down to personal preference.

Last note about brakes--if you are going to track your car, and you are above the novice level, you will need to go with a better brake pad than the stock one. There are entire threads devoted to that on here, so I will leave that discussion for those.

Have fun tracking your car--it is a total blast, and is what the car was designed for. Start with stock, learn the car's dynamics, improve your driving skills, and worry about modifying the car later. And most of all, have fun!
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenLightGo View Post
Here are my thoughts, from personal experience:

The M2C is a fantastic track car, even in pure stock form. I did 7 track days on mine, with the only change being I ran Cup 2 tires in the stock sizes. I ran the stock brake pad and fluid. I have 6 years track experience, and run in Intermediate 2 (just below Advanced/Instructor), so I was not babying the car. The stock brake pads held up just fine, but I always did a cool-down lap without using the brakes, so I didn't park the car with super hot rotors. Make sure you don't stop and engage the brakes until the rotors have had a chance to cool down. You should treat a cool-down lap as just that--cool down the brakes. When you get back to the paddock, stop the car and get off the brakes quickly. Either put it in first gear or park, and never set the parking brake--it could melt to the rotor hat. Check your tire pressures as soon as you get out of the car, and bleed air until you have them all at the temps you want them to be when hot. I run the Cup 2's at 35 psi hot.

Now for tires: the M2C really should have been engineered with front camber, but BMW was likely concerned about the street more than the track. No matter what tires you are using, if you are driving the car well, you will cord the outside of your front tires. IMO, if you want to track the car more than just occasionally, you should install camber plates. It will pay for itself in front tires before long. I like the Cup 2 tires--I think they are the best street-legal tire for the track. That said, I only drive them to/from the track. I have them mounted on Oz Hyper GT wheels, and use my stock wheels and tires for the street. The Cup 2's are not great in the rain, so they aren't a viable street option. Plus, it is always good to have a backup set of wheels and tires. I have had days where I corded my track tires, and run the last session or two on my stock wheels and tires. That said, the stock PSS tires are fine on the track--you just can't expect to push them as hard as Cup 2s, or turn the same lap times. But they are still fast and fun.

After one track season on the stock M2C setup, I made the following mods:
Ground Control Camber Plates
Dinan Coilover Suspension
Dinan Sway Bars, front and rear
Dinan Heat Exchanger
Dinan HE+ engine tune
Endless MX-72 brake pads
Castrol SRF brake fluid

I tested the car on the dyno in stock form, and again after the engine mods. Stock whp was 390, and post-tune whp was 470. So I got an 80hp gain at the wheels. There were similar gains in torque. The car is now a monster on the track. BUT...the stock tire sizes could not handle the added power. It was easy to induce oversteer, so you had to be very careful rolling on the throttle at the apex, or the car got loose. My first few track days were frustrating, as I worked to find the right balance and speed. I began to question whether the engine tune was the right choice.

I did a deep dive on this forum and others regarding tire sizes for the car. I ended up going with 265/30-19 in the front, and 295/30-19 in the rear. It turned out to be the solution I was looking for. The car tracks well into corners, and is stable and planted when you get on the throttle coming out of corners. It is the perfect setup, in my opinion. I have two days at Watkins Glen on the new tires, and they look great. Time will tell what the wear rate is on the fronts. I have spoken to M2C guys at the track who run square setups. They like the ability to rotate the tires. In my opinion, BMW engineered the car with a staggered setup, and it works best with that arrangement. Plus, even with camber plates, I expect that the front tires will wear faster than the rears. With a square setup you can rotate the tires and get more track days out of 4 tires. But you will be replacing all 4 when the time comes. With a staggered setup, I was on pace to go through 2 sets of fronts for every set of rears. I would rather run the staggered setup, with the advantages it has with wider rubber in the rear, and just replace the front tires more often. By not rotating front and rear, the rears last twice as long. So I don't think there is a big difference in cost savings, certainly not one that outweighs the performance advantage. But that is just my opinion, and others have valid reasons for going with a square setup. It comes down to personal preference.

Last note about brakes--if you are going to track your car, and you are above the novice level, you will need to go with a better brake pad than the stock one. There are entire threads devoted to that on here, so I will leave that discussion for those.

Have fun tracking your car--it is a total blast, and is what the car was designed for. Start with stock, learn the car's dynamics, improve your driving skills, and worry about modifying the car later. And most of all, have fun!
This is awesome information thank you for sharing your journey! Im getting the sense I need to lower my tire pressure, I was running 40-41 hot its probably contributing to my tire wear in the picture above.

Im still considering coilovers to go with the camber plates and am looking at KWs, Ohlins, Blistein. Do you mind sharing why you decided to go with Dinan?

Totally agree with you this car is a blast on the track! I drive at Mosport and Calabogie hoping to make the trip to Watkins Glen next year.

Cheers!
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      07-28-2021, 01:57 PM   #18
GreenLightGo
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Drives: 2020 M2C DCT
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Jason,

I went with Dinan because they will honor the warranty on the car. They are more expensive than other options, particularly for the engine tune, but they make good quality parts and stand behind them, and will work/fight with BMW if there is ever an issue that should be covered under the warranty. The last thing I want is a warranty fight with BMW over something major, with the dealer blaming the aftermarket parts.
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