[M2_MEDUSA]

Just got my stainless steel brake lines delivered today. Going to install and get back to everyone. Going to run RBF660 brake fluid

[bentom2]

With the OG blue brakes, the stainless lines made the pedal firmer and the bite point a bit higher in the pedal stroke.

[vrooooom]

I think the bite point is not from the new lines but from being newly bled.

[M2_MEDUSA]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

I think the bite point is not from the new lines but from being newly bled.

Not entirely true. I took my car to the canyons with 1500 miles on the car new fluid and bite was absolutely ass and faded quickly. I installed the lines and it was seriously noticeable. Felt like new brakes

[vrooooom]

Myb it’s more of a definition of what bite point means. I’m assuming it’s when the pads engages the disc and to me that would not be coming from the stainless line. I’m not saying what you felt is not there but fade is more from the fluid choice and quality than hose. Your old fluid even though at 1500 miles may already be beat and since you’ve described it as “ass” then it most likely was. Mind you sometimes people use the word “ass” positively. Newly bled brakes just tend to feel “tighter” less squishy.

I also have the SS lines just have not installed but to be perfectly frank, I’m not sure it’s really something that can be objectively positively felt. Given 2 system both newly bled with the same fluid and the only difference is the line. Double-blind test kinda results.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by SpecialEdition_F87

if I'm reading this correctly it'll work for stock 6 piston front and 4 piston rear correct?

How tedious is the install if I do it myself and if not what's labor cost. Thanks!


Update:

I just purchased the front and rear spiegler stainless steel brake lines will they fit my stock 6 pistons and 4 piston rear for m2c? What will I noticed after installing them and should I go with RBF600 fluid ?

1) No clue about fitment.

2) You may notice a firmer pedal which is a really good thing, but if you don't notice a difference don't be concerned because stock rubber hose technology has gotten alot better than in the past and as a result the stock hoses expand less so stainless lines may yield less significant results.

3) Install is not too bad if you have the proper tools: crows foot wrenches to get proper torque, brake bleeder, and experience working with braking systems because if you mess up the brakes can fail or the brake fluid will eat through paint.

4) If you don't track the car there is no point in getting upgraded high temp capable brake fluid (it doesn't add to pedal feel or braking performance if the fluid is not subjected to high temperatures that you will only see on a track) it will just be a waste of money. Instead stock fluid is perfectly fine and if you want a bit of an upgrade ATE type 200 has a lot higher dry boiling point than the stock fluid. But again not needed unless you track.



Edit- whoops didn't know this post was pretty old and I replied pretty late.

[vrooooom]

when do you consider the fluid to be already WET? For people that change their fluid often, some every track event, perhaps they don't get to that point.... but for the majority is that after a year, two?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

when do you consider the fluid to be already WET? For people that change their fluid often, some every track event, perhaps they don't get to that point.... but for the majority is that after a year, two?

You can't know unless you have a device to measure water content.

If you aren't tracking every 2 years as per bmw is fine, even hard street driving is fine for a 2 year brake fluid interval there is no way you can drive hard enough on the street to boil your brake fluid unless you are seriously endangering other people with reckless driving.

If you are tracking some tracks during inspection will not allow you to drive with brake fluid older than 6 months, but if you are seriously quick on the track you will need to flush every track day unless they are back to back. If you ever boil you brake fluid you will need to flush it irregardless of how new it is.



Castrol SRF is hydrophobic so it is able to last longer before requiring a flush, but when you do flush you have to do a really thorough flush or else pockets of water will be left in your braking system which is really bad news.