[M2 power]

hello all, I finally bought the 2017 M2 just about a week ago, picked it up from GA. The car is beautiful and it only has 10000 miles on it. It absolutely the best car I have ever driven, I cannot stop smiling every time I put the car on sport+ and hit the paddle. But, on the way back home, my new car (new to me) got hit by a freaking rock, and it got a pretty deep chip on the left quarter panel. I was very upset. I bought the paint from BMW match the color and touched up the chip, it looks way better than when I just got it, but it still bothers me. Since I know exactly where is the chip, I just can't help to look at it. I went to a few shops and asked the people who work there, and all of the shops told me I did a pretty good job on the touch-up, they told me just to leave it. I was wondering if you guys would recommend to paint it or just leave it and forgot about it? I live in NYC I know it will probably happen again here and there. The detail shops around my area will charge 5k-7k for a clear bra which I think it is pretty ridiculous. What do you guys think? Maybe the car is too new to me at this moment and I care about it way too much.

[DanG]

I have a few rock chips. Can’t help getting them. I just use touch up paint and forget it.

[GoneIn4Secs]

I was like that for the first couple months, but then its just a car bro, just keep it clean and enjoy the ride

[skiparock]

I did the Xpel on hood and bumper. It's saves me all the time, rock chips, fkn plywood that was flying through air. There is no paint damage at all after hitting it. No rock chips, will always do it on any new car

[RocketTR]

Get yourself Dr. Colorchip and call it a day. Hands down, the best way for DIY paint chip repair that is virtually undetectable.

[Yvette]

Daily wear, I would just leave it as is.

[Slowphiveo]

First of all for $5k....that better be a clear bra for the whole car! Getting Xpel done on the front of the car should be no more that $1800 tops. If that's what they are charging you in NYC, drive 1.5 hours south to Bucks County PA and contact Menard Premium Detailing, you will get a much better deal! Secondly, these cars were meant to be driven, and as such they will get the scars that come along with it. I'm fairly certain no one but you will notice the rock chip, especially if you have already filled it.

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by RocketTR

Get yourself Dr. Colorchip and call it a day. Hands down, the best way for DIY paint chip repair that is virtually undetectable.

I use and like Dr. Colorchip.. As for making the color of the rock ding perfectly match the surrounding paint, I rate it a 10.. However, in certain lighting conditions, there's no hiding the fact that the ding is still there, not because of color which as I said matches perfectly, but because the divot is still evident.. The process simply does not raise the level of the divot to the surrounding paint. But as for a quick fix able to withstand cursory glances in most light conditions, it does the job. With enough time and patience, however, I do believe its possible to raise the level of the divot with enough re-applications to approximate the level of the surrounding paint. The tricky part is removing the touchup paint from the surrounding paint without removing it from the rock divot. Have to experiment with drying time and pressure applied to the sealact removal solution to get precisely the right amount of removal.

[heavyD^2]

Just getting the front end done with about 1/3 hood/fender coverage should cost in the neighborhood of $700. I paid less than $5k to get my entire car wrapped in Suntek Ultra and I'm in Canada where everything costs more money than in the US. Sounds like some of you Americans are getting taken advantage of as nobody should be paying $7k to get a car wrapped.

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by heavyD^2

Just getting the front end done with about 1/3 hood/fender coverage should cost in the neighborhood of $700. I paid less than $5k to get my entire car wrapped in Suntek Ultra and I'm in Canada where everything costs more money than in the US. Sounds like some of you Americans are getting taken advantage of as nobody should be paying $7k to get a car wrapped.

So true.. Around here, to get full hood, bumper, fenders, headlights, rockers, mirrors, door bottoms, and rear hips can be done in 3M, Suntek, or Xpel film for around $2k.

[RocketBoots]

I do a decent amount of freeway driving, and always get a clear bra. I hate rock chips.

Might try Langka Blob Remover. You can use OEM touch up paint with it.

Keep in mind, touch-up paint is partly for looks, but more to protect the damaged area from further damage, like rust or corrosion. You will always be able to detect the defect, unless you get a respray.

[GTIGUY1992]

Originally Posted by boostm3

I use and like Dr. Colorchip.. As for making the color of the rock ding perfectly match the surrounding paint, I rate it a 10.. However, in certain lighting conditions, there's no hiding the fact that the ding is still there, not because of color which as I said matches perfectly, but because the divot is still evident.. The process simply does not raise the level of the divot to the surrounding paint. But as for a quick fix able to withstand cursory glances in most light conditions, it does the job. With enough time and patience, however, I do believe its possible to raise the level of the divot with enough re-applications to approximate the level of the surrounding paint. The tricky part is removing the touchup paint from the surrounding paint without removing it from the rock divot. Have to experiment with drying time and pressure applied to the sealact removal solution to get precisely the right amount of removal.

Yeah agreed, just the nature of application and removal of Dr. Colorchip means you won't get it leveled on any single application. I used a squeegee with a felt tip dipped in sealact and that worked best for me.

It took me like 3-4 days of apply, allow to cure, reapply next day, allow to cure. I did it as an experiment and ended up getting a chip divot out almost completely but it was a HUGE pain in the ass and simply not worth the effort to do nor very repeatable. It would be easier/faster to just send it to a pro and have them do touchup work/polishing and get it factory fresh.

[Picoschu]

chicks dig battle scars

[RocketTR]

Originally Posted by boostm3

I use and like Dr. Colorchip.. As for making the color of the rock ding perfectly match the surrounding paint, I rate it a 10.. However, in certain lighting conditions, there's no hiding the fact that the ding is still there, not because of color which as I said matches perfectly, but because the divot is still evident.. The process simply does not raise the level of the divot to the surrounding paint. But as for a quick fix able to withstand cursory glances in most light conditions, it does the job. With enough time and patience, however, I do believe its possible to raise the level of the divot with enough re-applications to approximate the level of the surrounding paint. The tricky part is removing the touchup paint from the surrounding paint without removing it from the rock divot. Have to experiment with drying time and pressure applied to the sealact removal solution to get precisely the right amount of removal.

That's exactly what I've done in the past for "deep" chips. A few applications will generally fill them close enough to the surface of the paint that it's not even noticeable. Either way, it beats putting a blob of paint in the chip and letting it dry like that.

[LuvMyE92]

First off OP, congrats on the new car, excellent choice!

Second, it's a car, and if you drive, stuff is going to happen. Just be happy with your touch-up and move on. If you do live/drive in NYC, it's likely to have a few marks soon enough, and you'll soon forget about it.

The suggestions for the Xpel are right on, but that's something that you generally want to have put on ASAP when new, not after 10K miles.

I have been known to use factory touch-up paint, including the clearcoat and then lightly sand and heavily polish the area. Wet sanding is dangerous, and to be honest I have a less than successful history doing this. However, when I did get it right, you couldn't see the repair later.

Of course, those occasions when I didn't get it right and got too heavy with the sandpaper... well, let's just say, I'm not going to try it on my M2.

[ShelJW]

Originally Posted by boostm3

So true.. Around here, to get full hood, bumper, fenders, headlights, rockers, mirrors, door bottoms, and rear hips can be done in 3M, Suntek, or Xpel film for around $2k.

The first week I got my M2 I had it covered in Xpel. I had done research in advance, and found a guy who is really excellent!

I covered the entire front, hood, A pillars, both doors and behind all four wheels. He removed the protection BMW had put on behind the wheels.

He also put Xpel behind the door handle and below the trunk, where you'd be inclined to rest your luggage before putting it in the trunk.

$2,200 complete.

If I had purchased my M2 used, I'm not sure I would have put PPF on it, but getting it brand new, it's now got 10k on it, and there isn't a chip on the car!

I plan to keep the car 5-7 years, so it's worth it to me. Not sure if I'll get any more $$$ when the time comes to sell it.

[MZWIE]

XPEL for $1700

[joec1101]

Originally Posted by Yvette

Daily wear, I would just leave it as is.

This ^

Leave it be - wear and tear is going to happen on any car. Spending thousands of dollars to "prevent" it or "repair" it is futile, IMO, unless it's actually damaged/dented. Besides, once it becomes a classic car, it'll be considered "patina" and not "rock chips"

[c1pher]

Originally Posted by RocketTR

Get yourself Dr. Colorchip and call it a day. Hands down, the best way for DIY paint chip repair that is virtually undetectable.

I swear by dr colorchip too. I have the paint kits for each of my cars and they can blend even deeper chips tot the point that you can’t find them again in most cases. Sometimes you need to do multiple passes if they are very deep, but with a little patience can be done to a high standard requiring no real skill. Only other alternative in those cases is to have someone stand and repaint and then the pattern of the paint may never look right again. Yes the color matches but when the light hits it, you can almost always see a difference when you get a respray.

[M2 power]

Thanks for all that replied. I got over it as I walked around the car and found a couple more chips on the car, not really a big deal as you guys mentioned, it meant to be driven. A car is a car. The only one that bothered me was the one that is pretty deep and I did touch up on it, I also got a very small sticker put it on, nothing crazy, its black sticker says "M performance" and the sticker color matched it perfectly, as long as I don't see it, it won't bother me. Thanks again.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by joec1101

This ^

Leave it be - wear and tear is going to happen on any car. Spending thousands of dollars to "prevent" it or "repair" it is futile, IMO, unless it's actually damaged/dented. Besides, once it becomes a classic car, it'll be considered "patina" and not "rock chips"

I don't agree. I didn't PPF when I got the car. Got annoyed with rock chips so I repaired and paid for PPF and I'm very happy I did. Now I don't worry about it and the car looks better.

[heavyD^2]

Originally Posted by joec1101

This ^

Leave it be - wear and tear is going to happen on any car. Spending thousands of dollars to "prevent" it or "repair" it is futile, IMO, unless it's actually damaged/dented. Besides, once it becomes a classic car, it'll be considered "patina" and not "rock chips"

You are in Southern California so you maybe you don't realize that the degree of wear and tear varies greatly depending on your location. Try living in a northern climate where they salt, sand and, gravel the roads in winter and come spring are typically in a decaying state of potholes and road debris. It can be really hard on a car's finish especially with big fender flares like the M2.