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      02-11-2020, 03:39 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
On the M2 I decided not to run a high end shock like Moton, JRZ, AST, MCS's etc.
The reasoning is rebuilds. I have a set of JRZ Pro's on my 17 Miata RF and I had 2 blown shocks at the 20K mark. I drive my M2 on the street and wanted a strut that was bulletproof. I've run TCK's before and they were bulletproof.

It cost me $2K to pull my JRZ's send them out have them rebuilt then reinstalled with a comp alignment. I love the JRZ's, but not the upkeep....
My understanding is the camber plates on the TC's are not very adjustable? I like the sound of softer springs though, I don't mind a touch of roll so you can feel the weight transfer.
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      02-11-2020, 06:10 PM   #46
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Yes they are set increments on the TCK plates.

Again if your looking to dial in your camber to very specific settings get GC plates, or another brand.

I might eventually do that myself but for now the TCK plates maxed out give right around 3.0 Negative, more if you reverse them...

400F/700R are not that soft :-)
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      02-11-2020, 08:46 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
Yes they are set increments on the TCK plates.

Again if your looking to dial in your camber to very specific settings get GC plates, or another brand.

I might eventually do that myself but for now the TCK plates maxed out give right around 3.0 Negative, more if you reverse them...

400F/700R are not that soft :-)
I like to run set and forget, on my M3 I had -2.6 up front and it worked well. Rates are very soft when you compare to stock Ohlins rates, even softest JRZ rates would be looking at 500 up front. Sounds similar to the M performance coils. Definitely an option though, interested to hear some track feedback!
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      02-12-2020, 06:46 PM   #48
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Quote:
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.. I don't mind a touch of roll so you can feel the weight transfer.
I agree with that entirely, and I know that is also the opinion of TCK (there's a whole article about it on his [old school] website). I bought the 300/600 springs and I think he offers 400/700 as well.

That said, Steve Ott (well known to me and McVaughan) runs our local shop and is an ex-IMSA driver as well. He was telling me about a book he was recently reading about suspension that basically says the car should be absolutely as stiff as possible, and even though that is hard to drive, its the "job of the driver" to sort out the car... and that it will only generate its max grip by allowing the tires to get to their max potential - and that would only occur with a super stiff setup. Dont on me here, I might be missing a key detail to the reasoning.... but I do remember the take home point of this particular book was super stiff is the way to go.
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      02-13-2020, 11:42 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malakas View Post
I agree with that entirely, and I know that is also the opinion of TCK (there's a whole article about it on his [old school] website). I bought the 300/600 springs and I think he offers 400/700 as well.

That said, Steve Ott (well known to me and McVaughan) runs our local shop and is an ex-IMSA driver as well. He was telling me about a book he was recently reading about suspension that basically says the car should be absolutely as stiff as possible, and even though that is hard to drive, its the "job of the driver" to sort out the car... and that it will only generate its max grip by allowing the tires to get to their max potential - and that would only occur with a super stiff setup. Dont on me here, I might be missing a key detail to the reasoning.... but I do remember the take home point of this particular book was super stiff is the way to go.
To me stiffer is better (that's what she said... sorry had to do it) is kind of a generalization. I think the emphasis needs to be on that it is situation dependent - more like it needs to be as stiff as possible without being over stiff for that particular situation, not so much caught up on super stiff is always the way to go. 300/600 doesn't sound like it is super stiff - but it might be the optimal rate for the current conditions. Or the optimal compromise on a street/track car. I do think stiffer is faster - but you can definitely get to a point where the springs are too stiff.
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      02-13-2020, 01:50 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG Shark View Post
To me stiffer is better (that's what she said... sorry had to do it) is kind of a generalization. I think the emphasis needs to be on that it is situation dependent - more like it needs to be as stiff as possible without being over stiff for that particular situation, not so much caught up on super stiff is always the way to go. 300/600 doesn't sound like it is super stiff - but it might be the optimal rate for the current conditions. Or the optimal compromise on a street/track car. I do think stiffer is faster - but you can definitely get to a point where the springs are too stiff.
I read somewhere that if the car has sufficient aerodynamics such that with speed the car is very planted with downforce, that then the stiffer the better. This also assumes a fairly smooth track.
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      02-13-2020, 02:20 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitekidM2C View Post
I read somewhere that if the car has sufficient aerodynamics such that with speed the car is very planted with downforce, that then the stiffer the better. This also assumes a fairly smooth track.
Yeah down force, ride height, surface conditions, all that good stuff should be accounted for when choosing spring rates. Would be interesting to see how much (I'm assuming they do) F1 teams change their rates between their different aero packages.
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      02-19-2020, 02:16 PM   #52
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Where is everybody mounting their transponders?

I saw an E92 M3 race car with one zip tied to the grille and one bolted to the subframe in the wheel well
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      02-19-2020, 03:09 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Where is everybody mounting their transponders?

I saw an E92 M3 race car with one zip tied to the grille and one bolted to the subframe in the wheel well
I have put my transponder in the glove box without issue. Not a guarantee it will work but i have done it before.
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      02-19-2020, 03:12 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitekidM2C View Post
I have put my transponder in the glove box without issue. Not a guarantee it will work but i have done it before.
Dang, that's brave.

Wouldn't it be sick if the wireless charger deal in the console would charge the transponder though?
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      02-19-2020, 04:26 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Where is everybody mounting their transponders?

I saw an E92 M3 race car with one zip tied to the grille and one bolted to the subframe in the wheel well
If it's a rental I zip tie it to the grill like you said - coincidentally have done this on my E92 M3 race car My personal one is mounted on the beam behind the bumper with the key thingy in the engine bay for easy access. When I get one for the M2 I will likely go the same route.

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      02-19-2020, 08:06 PM   #56
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Anyone take their comp to the quarter mile yet? I want to and plan to. It's not a proper track but kind of fun to race it down the 1/4 mile (lots of pre-run adrenaline!). I'm hoping to be in the low 12's with a tune and street tires.
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      02-20-2020, 11:16 AM   #57
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New shoes on the way for the M2

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      02-20-2020, 02:05 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG Shark View Post
New shoes on the way for the M2

Looks heavy
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      02-20-2020, 03:49 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Looks heavy
And also 20's
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      02-21-2020, 01:55 PM   #60
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Here's another one - do you all use local companies for your trackday vinyl lettering & numbering needs? And why are all local vinyl guys so GD flaky?
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      02-21-2020, 02:15 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Here's another one - do you all use local companies for your trackday vinyl lettering & numbering needs? And why are all local vinyl guys so GD flaky?
I use blue painters tape, it's cheap enough, just like me.
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      02-21-2020, 02:18 PM   #62
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Quote:
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I use blue painters tape, it's cheap enough, just like me.
With car numbers and class designations on all 4 sides, that gets to be a lot of tearing tape
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      02-21-2020, 08:06 PM   #63
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I have used trackdecals.com - they look pretty good. Also just used one of the decal companies from googling it & never had an issue. I have also just bought some vinyl & stencils from an art store for last minute stuff - but that is kind of a pita.

Since I'm bouncing back & forth between organizations & classes right now I just had a bunch made by Signarama (think they are national) so I can remove & replace as needed. Pretty easy to make the file & they were pretty reasonable. Just keep some 3M adhesive remover handy.
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      02-21-2020, 09:04 PM   #64
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Quote:
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New shoes on the way for the M2

Those look gorgeous... What sizes??
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      02-22-2020, 02:17 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Here's another one - do you all use local companies for your trackday vinyl lettering & numbering needs? And why are all local vinyl guys so GD flaky?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Here's another one - do you all use local companies for your trackday vinyl lettering & numbering needs? And why are all local vinyl guys so GD flaky?
I use these guys

http://www.izoomgraphics.com
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      02-22-2020, 11:13 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malakas View Post
Those look gorgeous... What sizes??
9.5" Front / 10.5" Rear - same as my now dedicated track wheels - except these are 20's instead of 18's. I figured that since I am now that guy that runs a wing on the street I need to have the bling wheels to match. Making a push to finish prettying the car up.
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