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      10-12-2020, 02:06 PM   #441
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Pilot Sport Cup 2 Connect 240 is also apparently available in 295/30-19
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      10-13-2020, 05:35 AM   #442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
Aftermarket brake kits might get you a stiffer pedal. With the one piston calipers that the older M-cars came with from factory this was often the case. The blue four piston caliper is a big step forward so I'm not sure what you can expect from an upgrade now though.
The APs are a step or 2 stiffer than OEM. OEM is still just a cast aluminium caliper. The APs are forged (even though the common CP9660 is a 2 part caliper so you are relying on the bolted joint strength for part of the stiffness).

Also heat may eventually cause the cast brakes to deform leading to leaks around the piston seals. The APs also have anti-knock back springs so the pedal should engage sooner. Lastly no dust seals to destroy. Not sure how yours are Magnus, but mine are toast.

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Originally Posted by blitzyo View Post
Thanks for the feedback, I was going to do brake cooling mods at some point eventually anyway. Seems like blue brakes + cooling will be perfect.
Have a few months off from the car now, so I have some time to mull over the decision of aftermarket fronts or blue brakes.
Recently found out they don't even stock 295/30-19 in any performance/semi-slick here except PS4S, so 19" for track is completely not an option now.
The CUP 2, Nankang AR-1, and Toyo R888R are also available in 295-30-19
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      10-13-2020, 08:23 AM   #443
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Dust seals are a consumable just like pads, tires and gasoline 😁
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      10-13-2020, 08:28 AM   #444
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Anyone using 265/35-18 fronts and 295/30-18 rears? It is not an optimal front/rear diameter ratio compared to original sizes. In 19" the ratio is much better running 265/30-19 and 295/30-19. But with 18 it's hard to find reasonable mix of front/rears. For example I haven't seen 295/35-18 that can go with 265/35-18 fronts.
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      10-13-2020, 08:41 AM   #445
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Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
Dust seals are a consumable just like pads, tires and gasoline 😁
Is there a good reason to replace the dust seals? More frequent changes needed of the piston seal? Just change the piston seal when it starts leaking? Mine dust seals have been toast for a couple years.
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      10-13-2020, 09:16 AM   #446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megator View Post
The CUP 2, Nankang AR-1, and Toyo R888R are also available in 295-30-19
Yep, but they aren't available where I live.
Trofeo R can be ordered, but there's a 4 month wait, or pay double for air shipping.

285/30-19 cup 2 zp are available however. These are runflats. Not sure if 265/30-19 non run flat and 285/30-19 runflat cup2s can be mixed.
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      10-13-2020, 10:01 AM   #447
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Originally Posted by M2guru View Post
Is there a good reason to replace the dust seals? More frequent changes needed of the piston seal? Just change the piston seal when it starts leaking? Mine dust seals have been toast for a couple years.
If you also drive your car in areas with heavy particle dust and grime, or salt on the roads, it's possible for small items to get stuck between the piston and housing of the caliper, causing a piston to not retract.

This exact thing happened to a buddy of mine during a Michigan winter one year.
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      10-13-2020, 12:07 PM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
Anyone using 265/35-18 fronts and 295/30-18 rears? It is not an optimal front/rear diameter ratio compared to original sizes. In 19" the ratio is much better running 265/30-19 and 295/30-19. But with 18 it's hard to find reasonable mix of front/rears. For example I haven't seen 295/35-18 that can go with 265/35-18 fronts.
Yokohama has the A052's that come in the 295/35/18 sizing. I've been running them on my M2C with no issues.
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      10-13-2020, 12:26 PM   #449
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Originally Posted by iBrakeLate View Post
Yokohama has the A052's that come in the 295/35/18 sizing. I've been running them on my M2C with no issues.
Ah, thanks!
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      10-13-2020, 01:29 PM   #450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
Anyone using 265/35-18 fronts and 295/30-18 rears? It is not an optimal front/rear diameter ratio compared to original sizes. In 19" the ratio is much better running 265/30-19 and 295/30-19. But with 18 it's hard to find reasonable mix of front/rears. For example I haven't seen 295/35-18 that can go with 265/35-18 fronts.
I have run 265/35/18 NS2R and 295/30/18 AR1. Car is much more neutral and less prone to steer from the rear. Almost too much as trail braking has less of an effect.

I put it down to the compound delta more than the tire size. I would just readjust the rear rideheight to keep the same rake as before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blitzyo View Post
Yep, but they aren't available where I live.
Trofeo R can be ordered, but there's a 4 month wait, or pay double for air shipping.

285/30-19 cup 2 zp are available however. These are runflats. Not sure if 265/30-19 non run flat and 285/30-19 runflat cup2s can be mixed.

Thats a shame . Could be worth a try, dont think the tires will be that disimilar.
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      10-13-2020, 11:14 PM   #451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER View Post
If you also drive your car in areas with heavy particle dust and grime, or salt on the roads, it's possible for small items to get stuck between the piston and housing of the caliper, causing a piston to not retract.

This exact thing happened to a buddy of mine during a Michigan winter one year.
Yup, bad dust boots with winter salt or just dusty/grimy environments aren't a great combo.

I'm making it part of my winterizing routine after the last track weekend of the year (in 2 weeks time):
- swap back to OEM brake pads
- replace dust boots (this year might be a full rebuild though)
- re-install pad wear sensors (maybe?)
- oil change
- brake fluid change, remove the Motul RBF600 and back to OE (it'll be due for a change anyway, don't feel like having RBF600 in over winter)
- winter tires on
- good clean and apply sealant and/or wax

And if I'd actually bothered to install the Porsche wind deflectors, I'd take them off too.
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      10-21-2020, 11:31 AM   #452
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      10-21-2020, 10:33 PM   #453
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What data/timing setups are y'all running? Initially, I just assumed I would buy an AiM Solo (2 DL most likely) but the more I'm reading around, the more I see various options and some cons to AiM's software package. Curious to learn more about what's working and what to maybe avoid. In addition to the expected lap and sector timing (and predictive times), I'd really like to have data+video synced, access to CAN for throttle, steering, and brake, and have it all run on a mac — a boy can dream, right?
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      10-21-2020, 10:51 PM   #454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1500Z View Post
What data/timing setups are y'all running? Initially, I just assumed I would buy an AiM Solo (2 DL most likely) but the more I'm reading around, the more I see various options and some cons to AiM's software package. Curious to learn more about what's working and what to maybe avoid. In addition to the expected lap and sector timing (and predictive times), I'd really like to have data+video synced, access to CAN for throttle, steering, and brake, and have it all run on a mac — a boy can dream, right?
I have an MXG with smarty cam for the race car. The smarty cam is new so will have to report back.
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      10-22-2020, 02:21 AM   #455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1500Z View Post
What data/timing setups are y'all running? Initially, I just assumed I would buy an AiM Solo (2 DL most likely) but the more I'm reading around, the more I see various options and some cons to AiM's software package. Curious to learn more about what's working and what to maybe avoid. In addition to the expected lap and sector timing (and predictive times), I'd really like to have data+video synced, access to CAN for throttle, steering, and brake, and have it all run on a mac ó a boy can dream, right?
Racechrono.

If you know the CAN pid for steering and brake it can be logged with the general obd2 data

You can export to a number of different file formats to analyse everything with different desktop software.
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      10-22-2020, 09:23 AM   #456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1500Z View Post
What data/timing setups are y'all running? Initially, I just assumed I would buy an AiM Solo (2 DL most likely) but the more I'm reading around, the more I see various options and some cons to AiM's software package. Curious to learn more about what's working and what to maybe avoid. In addition to the expected lap and sector timing (and predictive times), I'd really like to have data+video synced, access to CAN for throttle, steering, and brake, and have it all run on a mac ó a boy can dream, right?
If your car is eligible for the BMW Connect suite you can get the Mlaptimer on your iDrive which syncs to your free phone app. I have used all sorts of fancy data in our race car but you canít beat the Mlaptimer for simplicity and information. I have emailed my lap data to other drivers and we can use it to compare laps and learn. If you havenít seen it you can download the free app and I can email you an example.
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      10-22-2020, 10:19 AM   #457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1500Z View Post
What data/timing setups are y'all running? Initially, I just assumed I would buy an AiM Solo (2 DL most likely) but the more I'm reading around, the more I see various options and some cons to AiM's software package. Curious to learn more about what's working and what to maybe avoid. In addition to the expected lap and sector timing (and predictive times), I'd really like to have data+video synced, access to CAN for throttle, steering, and brake, and have it all run on a mac ó a boy can dream, right?
Aim's software is definitely a bit wonky - but after a bit of use you can get used to it. I have not used any of the others but can tell you what I like & do not like about Aim. Currently I am running the MXG dash with 84* smartycam front & 67* rear. Started with the Solo 2 DL

Like
Easy hook up
Lots of options for expansion & customization (hardware + lots of data options)
Starts recording on it's own based on rpm
No batteries to worry about when solo/dash hard wired
Immediate access to data & video with telemetry overlay

The last one is what I like the most out of the setup. At the end of a session you can immediately review the data & video. Can make adjustments & be able to quickly compare against previous laps. The video w/overlay is as easy as downloading the file off the memory card from the camera. Then quickly have everything in front of you to pick apart your laps. With limited time between sessions it is very nice not having to mess with anything to quickly have all the data & video in front of you within a couple of minutes.

An example - last weekend we had some open track time at COTA. Ended up being cool & wet all morning so had some impromptu no grip practice with hard compound slicks that had not chance of getting up to temp. Towards the end we did have a bit of a dry line starting to form so started to up the pace a little from snail to sloth. Got loose going through 10 on one lap that perplexed me a bit while I was driving - thought I had run it like I had been up to that point with consistent steering angle & throttle until off the curb before increasing to full throttle. After the session checked out the video to see what happened - and clearly could see that I added throttle a bit too early while on the still wet curb causing the car to get loose. Easily able to see that I needed to clean that up moving forward. This is what I was able to pull up immediately when I got back to the garage -



That video is with the 84* camera. I like the width being able to see out the side windows a bit & a pretty good view of my hands. With the 67* you still can get pillar to pillar, all personal preference here. I want to rearrange the overlay a little bit more but that is easy to do. I also messed something up on the brake parameter so need to fix that as well to get a good reading on the video.

Dislike
Software...
Video quality
Can get pricey

I'm sure there are some other options that work very well too. I know Cosworth is a liked alternative but haven't used it much myself. I do think if you can stomach the software Aim is a good option. Guessing you probably do not want to go to a full dash but can tell you that I really like the MXG. The Solo worked great as well for a removable option. The only reason I could see us moving from Aim since we are already pretty deep into it would be moving to something like a factory race car that runs Cosworth or something like that.
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      10-22-2020, 12:39 PM   #458
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I'm currently testing the Garmin Catalyst. It has a totally different approach and does not log any CAN or OBD2 data.

But honestly, I'm beginning to believe that after adapting and changing how I approach this a bit, the Catalyst will probably be my best tool to become a better more consistent driver.

But it's not a data logger primarily.
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      10-22-2020, 02:55 PM   #459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG Shark View Post
Aim's software is definitely a bit wonky - but after a bit of use you can get used to it. I have not used any of the others but can tell you what I like & do not like about Aim. Currently I am running the MXG dash with 84* smartycam front & 67* rear. Started with the Solo 2 DL
2 thoughts:
1) Great catch at 16s, tricky slide and I see you tried staying on it at first
2) Car sounds amazing. This is the sound missing in turbo 6 world, and a world was a better place with that sound. #V8forever
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      10-22-2020, 05:41 PM   #460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER View Post
2 thoughts:
1) Great catch at 16s, tricky slide and I see you tried staying on it at first
2) Car sounds amazing. This is the sound missing in turbo 6 world, and a world was a better place with that sound. #V8forever
Indeed - big part of why no matter how much I enjoy my M2 - the E92 M3 is always going to be my favorite. That's full Bimmerworld catless race exhaust & their headers. Actually think I like the corsa rear half + gintani mid pipe w/high flow cats setup I had on it in the video below before it went all race car a bit better though. That setup is on my E90 M3 now though so no loss



The sound in that of me breaking loose looks like it is a bit laggy - not sure why that happened when I cropped it out to post up real quick. If you watch the throttle bar I don't think I was too keen on trying to ride that one out under throttle too long
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      10-27-2020, 10:59 PM   #461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG Shark View Post
Aim's software is definitely a bit wonky - but after a bit of use you can get used to it. I have not used any of the others but can tell you what I like & do not like about Aim. Currently I am running the MXG dash with 84* smartycam front & 67* rear. Started with the Solo 2 DL

Like
Easy hook up
Lots of options for expansion & customization (hardware + lots of data options)
Starts recording on it's own based on rpm
No batteries to worry about when solo/dash hard wired
Immediate access to data & video with telemetry overlay

The last one is what I like the most out of the setup. At the end of a session you can immediately review the data & video. Can make adjustments & be able to quickly compare against previous laps. The video w/overlay is as easy as downloading the file off the memory card from the camera. Then quickly have everything in front of you to pick apart your laps. With limited time between sessions it is very nice not having to mess with anything to quickly have all the data & video in front of you within a couple of minutes.

An example - last weekend we had some open track time at COTA. Ended up being cool & wet all morning so had some impromptu no grip practice with hard compound slicks that had not chance of getting up to temp. Towards the end we did have a bit of a dry line starting to form so started to up the pace a little from snail to sloth. Got loose going through 10 on one lap that perplexed me a bit while I was driving - thought I had run it like I had been up to that point with consistent steering angle & throttle until off the curb before increasing to full throttle. After the session checked out the video to see what happened - and clearly could see that I added throttle a bit too early while on the still wet curb causing the car to get loose. Easily able to see that I needed to clean that up moving forward. This is what I was able to pull up immediately when I got back to the garage -

That video is with the 84* camera. I like the width being able to see out the side windows a bit & a pretty good view of my hands. With the 67* you still can get pillar to pillar, all personal preference here. I want to rearrange the overlay a little bit more but that is easy to do. I also messed something up on the brake parameter so need to fix that as well to get a good reading on the video.

Dislike
Software...
Video quality
Can get pricey

I'm sure there are some other options that work very well too. I know Cosworth is a liked alternative but haven't used it much myself. I do think if you can stomach the software Aim is a good option. Guessing you probably do not want to go to a full dash but can tell you that I really like the MXG. The Solo worked great as well for a removable option. The only reason I could see us moving from Aim since we are already pretty deep into it would be moving to something like a factory race car that runs Cosworth or something like that.
Yeah, no full dash for me. What you're saying about AiM and being able to access data+video is great (if you're on Windows I'm guessing), but the inability to sync with a more common and better camera is a sad to me. I have also read that you can only overlay 1 video at a time so you cannot have comparative runs side by sideóis this accurate?

I read an informative post from Peter Krause about why he prefers the RaceLogic setup to Aim and it made a lot of sense. It also frustrated me because I could find myself, like you, in deep with a particular setup making future change more costly figuratively and literally. The HD2 is far outside my cost-benefit ratio right now.

Right now, I'm leaning toward something like the RaceChrono setup that's kind of pieced together or scouting a deal for an AiM Solo2 unit that could potentially be resold without too significant a hit.
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