BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
M2 Technical Topics > Track / Autocross / Dragstrip > Track setup - yeah, I know, another thread

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      03-08-2020, 02:07 PM   #89
SEAT TIME RULES
HAZMAT
SEAT TIME RULES's Avatar
493
Rep
686
Posts

Drives: 20 BMW M2C 17 Mazda MX-5 RF
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: "Get Busy Living, or Get busy Dying"

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2020 BMW M2C  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
The rear seat weighs 60lbs? Pulled mine out when doing some wiring and it didn't seem that heavy. Maybe 25lbs? Dunno, maybe I'm just super buff. (definitely not)
The entire rear seat. not just the backs...the seat back is much lighter than seat bases...
__________________
2005-2006 BMWCCA Boston Chapter president
2004 Mazda Rev It Up Finalist
2002-Present HPDE Instructor
Appreciate 1
      03-08-2020, 03:10 PM   #90
SEAT TIME RULES
HAZMAT
SEAT TIME RULES's Avatar
493
Rep
686
Posts

Drives: 20 BMW M2C 17 Mazda MX-5 RF
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: "Get Busy Living, or Get busy Dying"

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2020 BMW M2C  [0.00]
You posted: Two aspects.
First, I wanted to keep the back interior of the car for aesthetics. That'll probably change as I move onward with the car. It's only 6 months old with 3100 miles (of which around a third are track) so I'm not quite ready to start yanking out and shelving stuff.

I know I can loose quite a bit of weight removing it but I don't care to spend close to 2K for a sheet of press board covered in Ozite for the "back seat delete".

I'm capable of doing the seat delete on my own, just don't have the time/desire to spend on it right now - that's all taken up with my present (5 year long) project in the pic below. Once it's done I'll probably direct more attention to the M2.

Check this thread out:

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ar+seat+delete
__________________
2005-2006 BMWCCA Boston Chapter president
2004 Mazda Rev It Up Finalist
2002-Present HPDE Instructor

Last edited by SEAT TIME RULES; 03-08-2020 at 03:26 PM..
Appreciate 0
      03-09-2020, 11:03 AM   #91
K-Fab
Pro Shopping Cart Pilot
K-Fab's Avatar
United_States
99
Rep
66
Posts

Drives: 2020 BMW M2 Competition
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: North Scottsdale, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
Very nice - I'll be taking a long hard look at that. Thanks.
When I get my driver's seat (only gonna replace one) for the track I'll be back in the car taking things apart and such - I'll look at this mod and possibly pursue it.

So I'm not the only one thinking the rear seat delete are stupid pricy, eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
It's a monotube damper that adjusts via traditional methods (valve orifice sizes) and not magnetorheological.
Ah, okay. All I know is that it was vastly superior through the little choppy crap than the stock M2C is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Pagid RSL29s defintely lack bite and require a long pedal throw before they really start to grab and slow the car down. Moving to a different pad compound (like PFC08) will provide more immediate grab and feedback. When I first made the switch from RSL29 to PFC08 I kept pushing the pedal in like I did with the RSL29s, and ended up engaging ABS with the PFC08s till I learned their behavior.
Perfect info!
I love forums - especially responses like this that have info and explain that info. Thank you. I'll be giving them a shot the next round.
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW-What a Ride!'" - Anonymous
Appreciate 0
      03-09-2020, 07:48 PM   #92
2020M2Competition
First Lieutenant
2020M2Competition's Avatar
293
Rep
322
Posts

Drives: Yes
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Florida

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
I do have one complaint/desire to change: My brakes are great, no issues (Pagid yellows), would just like something a tad more "personalized".

They stop well, have good modulation, blah, blah. What I'd like, though, is a bit more pedal meaning I wish it would stiffen up sooner in the throw and have a more solid feeling.

The pedal has a soft zone when initially stepping on it and then once it gets into the braking area of it's throw, it's on the softer side with a tad more travel than I'd like. Gives me a mushy feeling with less modulation feel than I'd like.

I'd prefer a slightly stiffer pedal with less throw - What'd I'd do in my off road stuff to solve this would be to up the piston size in the master cylinder and change the ratio between the pedal and the pucks along with adjust the pedal throw and where it enters the brake pressure zone.
If you haven't already, I strongly recommend installing stainless steel brake lines and/or making absolutely sure there is no air in the hydraulic system

My brake pedal is now very firm, but it took the stainless lines and a couple of bleeds to get there

Since the brake and clutch share the same reservoir and the car uses a sophisticated ABS/DSC system, there are lots of places for air to hide

Anyhow, it made a huge difference for me
__________________
2020 BMW M2 Competition - Hockenheim Silver - 6 Speed Manual - Executive Package
763Ms - Michelin PS4S 255/275 - Rallyflapz - Goodridge SS Lines - Pagid RSL29 Pads - OP Ti Pad Shims - SRP Pedals - Ultimate Clutch Pedal - E90 Clutch Slave - Castrol SRF - Akrapovic Evolution Exhaust - BMS OCC - Technic ASD Bypass - MP CF Steering Wheel Trim - MP Floor Mats - Auto Tecknic M1 & M2 Buttons - Fall Line Fire Extinguisher & Bracket
Appreciate 1
      03-10-2020, 06:37 AM   #93
MagnusT
Captain
MagnusT's Avatar
Sweden
498
Rep
626
Posts

Drives: BMW M2
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Stockholm

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Pagid RSL29s defintely lack bite and require a long pedal throw before they really start to grab and slow the car down. Moving to a different pad compound (like PFC08) will provide more immediate grab and feedback. When I first made the switch from RSL29 to PFC08 I kept pushing the pedal in like I did with the RSL29s, and ended up engaging ABS with the PFC08s till I learned their behavior.
+1 Agree 100% with this description. I have tested all iterations of Yellow Pagids over the years including RSL. But I prefer PFC08 exactly because what you describe. They will brake the car equally well but the feel is very different, especially the initial bite.

The pedal really doesn't get stiffer but the different characteristic compared to the Pagids, with less force needed at the beginning, is a good feel IMHO.
Appreciate 0
      03-10-2020, 07:10 AM   #94
MagnusT
Captain
MagnusT's Avatar
Sweden
498
Rep
626
Posts

Drives: BMW M2
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Stockholm

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
Car is now set at 3 degrees camber, zero toe front
1.9 camber, toe in - 1 degree. Yes, Toyo R888R sneakers. The springs came with the Ohilns.

I also have the R&T, curious to how many clicks you set them to?

In connection with that, do you run square or staggered since that will affect the choice of clicks. Also a matter of taste and driving style of course. I run TrofeoR 265 front and 295 rear with 3-4 clicks in front and 6-7 at the back. I roughly have your alignment too. I've been at 3.2 or so but currently trying out 2.8 to see if I can ease the inner shoulder wear on the front tires. I felt a bit less front end bite with the lower setting but currently waiting to check out shoulder wear as I go. Planning to put on H&R sway bars in a few weeks to see if that will help shoulder wear.

https://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1573547#1573547




Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
I kept a pretty close eye on temps across the tire's face (Longacre gauge with pyro temp sensor - http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...auge-0-100-psi) and was pleased with the consistency of the measured temps (140ish outer to 155ish inner tread temps up front, 150-155 rear).
Have you looked at my little DIY project, tire temperature thermal cameras measuring 16 spots over the tire width, live while driving with logging and video overlay with Harry's or Racechrono. Just around $100 a piece.

https://github.com/MagnusThome/RejsaRubberTrac




Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
New suspension - Thoughts and observations.
With the stock suspension, coming out of turn 8 and into 9 at AMP there are chatter bumps and it's slightly off camber. The back end was twitchy, skittish and never felt planted at all.

I had a student with an M4 that has adjustable ride suspension (guessing magnetically controlled - I'm not up on BMW's technology - still new to it) and it was silky smooth over the section and felt very compliant and planted.

My car, with the Ohlins now, feels the same way. It was stuck down, planted and put the power down w/o getting all skittish.
Yeah, the slightly bumpy/jumpy rear end is solved with the R&T, agree 100%. Very noticeable when breaking hard on uneven bumpy surfaces too.
Appreciate 1
CrashFL118.50

      03-10-2020, 11:32 AM   #95
K-Fab
Pro Shopping Cart Pilot
K-Fab's Avatar
United_States
99
Rep
66
Posts

Drives: 2020 BMW M2 Competition
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: North Scottsdale, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by VTBoss302 View Post
If you haven't already, I strongly recommend installing stainless steel brake lines and/or making absolutely sure there is no air in the hydraulic system
I've already been trying to get info on the ends so I can make my own. I have all the stuff, just need ends.
I'm also getting ready to flush the brake system again so if there are any bubbles they should get removed (doesn't feel like there are any, though).
Do you happen to have a link to bolt on SS brake lines? Kinda curious as to cost compared to making them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
+1 Agree 100% with this description. I have tested all iterations of Yellow Pagids over the years including RSL. But I prefer PFC08 exactly because what you describe. They will brake the car equally well but the feel is very different, especially the initial bite.

The pedal really doesn't get stiffer but the different characteristic compared to the Pagids, with less force needed at the beginning, is a good feel IMHO
Perfect! I was talking with my tuning guy yesterday and he was going to contact Pagid and play 20 questions with them but I'm thinking I'll give the PFC's a try. You're the second to mention them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
I also have the R&T, curious to how many clicks you set them to?
Up front I'm at 12 out and in the rear 10. It's more street oriented tuning for the initial install.

I'll be headed to Spring Mountain in April with Audi and will have an open track day on Friday. I plan on playing with settings then as I'll not have students and will have time to muck about.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
In connection with that, do you run square or staggered since that will affect the choice of clicks. Also a matter of taste and driving style of course. I run TrofeoR 265 front and 295 rear with 3-4 clicks in front and 6-7 at the back. I roughly have your alignment too. I've been at 3.2 or so but currently trying out 2.8 to see if I can ease the inner shoulder wear on the front tires. I felt a bit less front end bite with the lower setting but currently waiting to check out shoulder wear as I go. Planning to put on H&R sway bars in a few weeks to see if that will help shoulder wear.
I'm running staggered: 9.5 & 10.5 x 19 Apex EC-7 wheels, Toyo R888R sneakers - 265 & 295

Keep me posted on what you find out. When I put the street stuff back on (wheels/pads) I noticed that my wear across the front is good with the exception that the inner shoulder is already showing to be more rounded than the outer shoulder so it's an indication of a bit more wear. Temps across the face of the tire were pretty consistent, though as mentioned in a previous post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
Well, if I could read Swedish I'd be ahead of the game.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
Have you looked at my little DIY project, tire temperature thermal cameras measuring 16 spots over the tire width, live while driving with logging and video overlay with Harry's or Racechrono. Just around $100 a piece.

https://github.com/MagnusThome/RejsaRubberTrac
VERY COOL!!!!
Now I need to get Harry's working (have NEVER been able to make that app work correctly). I'm familiar with IR sensing for temp - have a setup that reads both the clutches and the belt temperature in a CVT drivetrain in my off road truck. You can see the clutch sensors on the arm sitting between them and the belt sensor it peeking out at the middle top.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
Yeah, the slightly bumpy/jumpy rear end is solved with the R&T, agree 100%. Very noticeable when breaking hard on uneven bumpy surfaces too.
Good - I'm glad we're seeing similar results. The Ohlins definitely have improved things.
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW-What a Ride!'" - Anonymous
Appreciate 0
      03-10-2020, 01:27 PM   #96
2020M2Competition
First Lieutenant
2020M2Competition's Avatar
293
Rep
322
Posts

Drives: Yes
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Florida

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
I've already been trying to get info on the ends so I can make my own. I have all the stuff, just need ends.
I'm also getting ready to flush the brake system again so if there are any bubbles they should get removed (doesn't feel like there are any, though).
Do you happen to have a link to bolt on SS brake lines? Kinda curious as to cost compared to making them.
Here are a couple

Goodridge

https://ind-distribution.com/collect...el-brake-lines

Spiegler

https://www.essexparts.com/spiegler-...mw-m2-m3m4-f80

https://www.essexparts.com/spiegler-...m4-f80-f82-f87

There are some less expensive alternatives from other manufacturers, as well
__________________
2020 BMW M2 Competition - Hockenheim Silver - 6 Speed Manual - Executive Package
763Ms - Michelin PS4S 255/275 - Rallyflapz - Goodridge SS Lines - Pagid RSL29 Pads - OP Ti Pad Shims - SRP Pedals - Ultimate Clutch Pedal - E90 Clutch Slave - Castrol SRF - Akrapovic Evolution Exhaust - BMS OCC - Technic ASD Bypass - MP CF Steering Wheel Trim - MP Floor Mats - Auto Tecknic M1 & M2 Buttons - Fall Line Fire Extinguisher & Bracket
Appreciate 0
      03-10-2020, 01:56 PM   #97
MagnusT
Captain
MagnusT's Avatar
Sweden
498
Rep
626
Posts

Drives: BMW M2
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Stockholm

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by K-Fab View Post
...
Now I need to get Harry's working (have NEVER been able to make that app work correctly). ...
I've run both Harry's and RaceChrono quite a bit on Android and the latter has been much more stable especially with external things like automating and syncing with an external Gopro 8 camera, OBD2 Bluetooth dongle and my RejsaRubberTrac too.

Appreciate 2
      03-10-2020, 01:57 PM   #98
2020M2Competition
First Lieutenant
2020M2Competition's Avatar
293
Rep
322
Posts

Drives: Yes
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Florida

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
+1 Agree 100% with this description. I have tested all iterations of Yellow Pagids over the years including RSL. But I prefer PFC08 exactly because what you describe. They will brake the car equally well but the feel is very different, especially the initial bite.

The pedal really doesn't get stiffer but the different characteristic compared to the Pagids, with less force needed at the beginning, is a good feel IMHO.
I still think the biggest issue is the soft initial pedal K-Fab described

Other than occasional pad knock back, the pedal should be firm regardless of which pad compound he's running
__________________
2020 BMW M2 Competition - Hockenheim Silver - 6 Speed Manual - Executive Package
763Ms - Michelin PS4S 255/275 - Rallyflapz - Goodridge SS Lines - Pagid RSL29 Pads - OP Ti Pad Shims - SRP Pedals - Ultimate Clutch Pedal - E90 Clutch Slave - Castrol SRF - Akrapovic Evolution Exhaust - BMS OCC - Technic ASD Bypass - MP CF Steering Wheel Trim - MP Floor Mats - Auto Tecknic M1 & M2 Buttons - Fall Line Fire Extinguisher & Bracket
Appreciate 0
      03-10-2020, 02:09 PM   #99
MagnusT
Captain
MagnusT's Avatar
Sweden
498
Rep
626
Posts

Drives: BMW M2
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Stockholm

iTrader: (0)

My experience with all BMW M cars I've owned is that they all have pretty soft brake pedals with the OEM calipers. A high level of brake servo is probably to blame together with caliper flex. I guess.
Appreciate 0
      03-10-2020, 04:42 PM   #100
2020M2Competition
First Lieutenant
2020M2Competition's Avatar
293
Rep
322
Posts

Drives: Yes
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Florida

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnusT View Post
My experience with all BMW M cars I've owned is that they all have pretty soft brake pedals with the OEM calipers. A high level of brake servo is probably to blame together with caliper flex. I guess.
No doubt there are several factors at play

In any case, my responses are not meant to contradict your and FaRKle!'s brake pad recommendations and hope they are not interpreted in that manner

Brake pads are a lot like tires in the sense that some people will no doubt prefer the characteristics of one over another

I am personally considering trying out the new Ferodo DS3.12s when it comes time to replace my Pagid RSL29s
__________________
2020 BMW M2 Competition - Hockenheim Silver - 6 Speed Manual - Executive Package
763Ms - Michelin PS4S 255/275 - Rallyflapz - Goodridge SS Lines - Pagid RSL29 Pads - OP Ti Pad Shims - SRP Pedals - Ultimate Clutch Pedal - E90 Clutch Slave - Castrol SRF - Akrapovic Evolution Exhaust - BMS OCC - Technic ASD Bypass - MP CF Steering Wheel Trim - MP Floor Mats - Auto Tecknic M1 & M2 Buttons - Fall Line Fire Extinguisher & Bracket
Appreciate 1
PLF69511.00

      03-12-2020, 07:49 PM   #101
landapanda
Lieutenant
265
Rep
450
Posts

Drives: BMW M2
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Ashburn, Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
What is your rear seat still doing in the car with that cage? You will drop 60lbs taking it out...
The rear seat weighs 60lbs? Pulled mine out when doing some wiring and it didn't seem that heavy. Maybe 25lbs? Dunno, maybe I'm just super buff. (definitely not)
The bench AND both back seat backs are 52 lbs combined if I recall correctly. I have a post on it somewhere here...
Appreciate 0
      08-21-2020, 03:47 AM   #102
kart driver
First Lieutenant
228
Rep
335
Posts

Drives: M5
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Europe

iTrader: (0)

Is -1 degree possible to change the camber on a stock M2C without camber plates?
Appreciate 0
      08-21-2020, 12:14 PM   #103
Megator
Lieutenant
Megator's Avatar
329
Rep
564
Posts

Drives: M2 Competition
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: NL

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by kart driver View Post
Is -1 degree possible to change the camber on a stock M2C without camber plates?
Nope. Front camber is set.

Lots of good info in this thread!
__________________
AX 1.1 --> AX GTI --> NA Roadster 1.8 --> E39 528i --> Xsara VTS --> Volvo 940 LPT --> Focus RS MK3 --> M2C + NA Miata 1.8
Appreciate 0
      08-21-2020, 12:49 PM   #104
detroitm2
Lieutenant Colonel
detroitm2's Avatar
United_States
1711
Rep
1,957
Posts

Drives: 2018 M2
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Michigan

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
2018 BMW M2  [0.00]
Anyone have some good baseline numbers for rebound/compression on KW V3's for both street and track? Dug around a bit and didn't really find any info on it beyond "just try it till you like it". Problem with that, is I dont have a lift. and adjusting the suspension is a pain in the ass when the car isnt in the air.
Appreciate 0
      08-21-2020, 04:12 PM   #105
kart driver
First Lieutenant
228
Rep
335
Posts

Drives: M5
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Europe

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Megator View Post
Nope. Front camber is set.

Lots of good info in this thread!
Thank you!
Appreciate 0
      09-06-2020, 11:20 PM   #106
iBrakeLate
Private
71
Rep
77
Posts

Drives: 2020 M2 Competition
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Miami

iTrader: (0)

Those who have mentioned they are running 265/295 tire combo with the Ohlins R&T, what wheel offset are you running?

Any info on that would be much apprecaited.
Appreciate 0
      09-07-2020, 04:40 AM   #107
Caduceus
First Lieutenant
Australia
270
Rep
361
Posts

Drives: 2008 135 (sold), 2017 M2
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Australia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Anyone have some good baseline numbers for rebound/compression on KW V3's for both street and track? Dug around a bit and didn't really find any info on it beyond "just try it till you like it". Problem with that, is I dont have a lift. and adjusting the suspension is a pain in the ass when the car isnt in the air.
Youíre probably already aware but KW recommend C6R9 both front and rear as a baseline. Measured from full hard.

Be wary of specs for MPS suspension. Although they are essentially KW V3s, they may have different valving and the rear springs are certainly different - no helpers on the MPS rear springs.

Front is easy to adjust on the side of the road if you donít mind lying in the dirt to reach the compression adjusters. Rear needs the car jacked up to reach the rebound adjusters and makes it easier to reach compression adjusters also. With the latter, having a chopstick or pencil with eraser tip makes it easier to manipulate the compression wheel.
Appreciate 1
detroitm21711.00

      09-07-2020, 10:35 AM   #108
detroitm2
Lieutenant Colonel
detroitm2's Avatar
United_States
1711
Rep
1,957
Posts

Drives: 2018 M2
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Michigan

iTrader: (1)

Garage List
2018 BMW M2  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caduceus View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroitm2 View Post
Anyone have some good baseline numbers for rebound/compression on KW V3's for both street and track? Dug around a bit and didn't really find any info on it beyond "just try it till you like it". Problem with that, is I dont have a lift. and adjusting the suspension is a pain in the ass when the car isnt in the air.
You’re probably already aware but KW recommend C6R9 both front and rear as a baseline. Measured from full hard.

Be wary of specs for MPS suspension. Although they are essentially KW V3s, they may have different valving and the rear springs are certainly different - no helpers on the MPS rear springs.

Front is easy to adjust on the side of the road if you don’t mind lying in the dirt to reach the compression adjusters. Rear needs the car jacked up to reach the rebound adjusters and makes it easier to reach compression adjusters also. With the latter, having a chopstick or pencil with eraser tip makes it easier to manipulate the compression wheel.
Thanks. Yup, knew the KW suggest numbers.

Was hoping for some more real world numbers to smooth out the street drive.
Appreciate 0
      11-09-2020, 06:28 PM   #109
K-Fab
Pro Shopping Cart Pilot
K-Fab's Avatar
United_States
99
Rep
66
Posts

Drives: 2020 BMW M2 Competition
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: North Scottsdale, Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Just had my first track weekend (Inde Motorsports Park in Wilcox, AZ with Porsche Club AZ - what a FUN track - new pavement too) since getting everything (except a seat - that's next) fitted and a base line for tuning is now stored away in my butt dyno.

btw - Got the M-Laptimer app working. I LIKE THIS!!!

I keep having to go back and forth through this thread for my settings (because I'm stupid and haven't written them down until now) so I'm going to put everything in this post (kinda a new reset to this thread, if you will) so I can find it.

2020 M2 Competition
9.5 & 10.5 x 19 Apex EC-7 wheels
Toyo R888R sneakers - 265 & 295 running 36-37 hot
RSR cage
Pagid Yellows (this is changing next round)
Ground Control camber plates and Turner adjustable rear toe arms
÷lins R&T suspension both front and rear are 10 clicks out (will play with these next round)
Ride height is 8 mm lower than stock (supposed to be 10mm lower)
Car is set at 3 degrees camber, zero toe front
1.9 camber, presently mentally blank on toe in - 1 degree, I believe.

---------------------------
First off, every time I get on the track with this car I'm impressed with just what a hoot it is. Man it's fun. I'm really impressed with just how hard and long it accelerates. At Inde I only used 3rd & 4th (just touches rev limiter at 128 mph before braking for turn three). Third gear is a tractor. It just makes the back end squat and pushes you forward nicely. Very controlled on throttle setting #2. #3 is a joke - I like having a potentiometer instead of a binary input.

Braking was excellent (low brake abuse track) and I was much happier with the modulation and feel at Inde than at Arizona Motorsports Park (has two major brake zones back to back and I get a softish pedal). I still plan on trying a different pad - been watching a few threads and may look at Ferodo or ... I'll have to go look again.

I still want braided brake lines to get rid of that little squishy feeling at the end of the pedal.

There's another thread going that describes quite well what I'm experiencing - and his car is similarly set up (I'll be copy/pasting part of this post into his in a minute).

The front end goes exactly where I want it to - and I can make it understeer if wanted (generally not...). I'm pleased with it. There's probably some more bite in it with a few clicks of shock tuning.

Rear end is tail happy. If you don't get things all gathered up just right at the apex and start getting on it, the rear has a tendency to step out. It's not scary and it's pretty predictable (after getting laps in, my right foot was MUCH better at controlling it) but it's still more than I'd like. From what I'm reading in the other thread, it very well may be my ride height and spring preloads also. I already need to drop the whole car to the recommended 10 mm below stock (I'm at 8).

Man this thing is fun and dynamic.

Four wheel drifts are precise, confident and don't spook me (except for one unexpected one - my fault... way too quick on the turn in at the fastest corner on the track. WHEEE!)

The rear end being happy isn't an issue - never ever felt like it gets too far out and is complete controllable but I'd like it not to be quite as aggressive about doing it (come on right foot...).

More tuning to come.

That's it for now... Fresh from the track, trying to get thoughts down while they're still present.
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW-What a Ride!'" - Anonymous
Appreciate 2
Fabb98.50

      11-12-2020, 01:52 PM   #110
richard in NC
Colonel
United_States
682
Rep
2,049
Posts

Drives: 2009 Z4 35i
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Charlotte, NC

iTrader: (0)

Subscribing to this thread...

I've done 3 track events so far with the M2C bone stock, aside from Castrol SRF brake fluid. The car is great for my intermediate experience level and works extremely well except for one issue. Under hard braking, near ABS threshold, from 100+ MPH, I get an unsettling shudder in the car. I don't think its pads or rotors since I don't feel it in the steering wheel. It helps to ease into the braking or stay shy of threshold levels. A friend noticed that in his M2C as well.

Some have suggested track pads, others adjusting rear toe.

Thoughts?

EDIT I posted in another thread but here's the start of a track session at CMP chasing Vettes. https://vimeo.com/453262529

I think you can see the shudder at turn 8 braking at 1:00, 2:55, and 4:50 in the video.
__________________
2020 X3M non-comp, Alpine White over black : Exec Pkg, ventilated M Sport seats, 20"s
2020 M2 Comp, Sunset Orange/Blk: Orange stitching, DCT, exec pkg, bicolor rims
Gone '18 M550i, '16 X4 M40i, '15 M5, '13 X3 35i, '12 335is, '11 X5 50i, '09 Z4 35i, '08 550i, 06 X3, 06 650i, '02 M5, '99 540i

Last edited by richard in NC; 11-12-2020 at 02:01 PM..
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:03 AM.




m2
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST