[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Yadadameans

I tried asking KW to rebuild them and they told me to contact BMW. I havent heard anything from BMW about them yet.

Once you find out who does it, and if they do a good job, that information needs to be a sticky, as it will become commonplace as these cars age.

[Caduceus]

Originally Posted by Yadadameans

About 8k miles on my M performance coilovers and front driver side started leaking oil and making noises going over bumps. Anyone know if its possible to rebuild these coilovers?

It might be an artefact in the image you posted but if the apparent marring of that shaft has been caused by someone holding it with a set of vice grips to stop it rotating while they installed the top nut...well, that's a problem that will lead to seal failure in no time.

Can you wipe the oil film off the shaft and take a closer look to see if it is pristine smooth like it should be?

[Yadadameans]

Originally Posted by Caduceus

It might be an artefact in the image you posted but if the apparent marring of that shaft has been caused by someone holding it with a set of vice grips to stop it rotating while they installed the top nut...well, that's a problem that will lead to seal failure in no time.

Can you wipe the oil film off the shaft and take a closer look to see if it is pristine smooth like it should be?

It's the image. No marring on the shaft. No vice grips have been used on them at all.

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Once you find out who does it, and if they do a good job, that information needs to be a sticky, as it will become commonplace as these cars age.

Once I take them off I will try again to see if I can get them rebuilt. I already have a new set of AST coilovers coming to replace M performance coilovers.

[Connors5453]

Originally Posted by Revolagoy

Thanks for your response. That's a bummer. I will stay with the stock suspension.

KW Has kit is great option!

[johnnydad]

I’m puzzled about the bounce comments - when I set off in my car after the MPS install (factory settings) I was very impressed by the reduction in that rear end hop and bounce that would occur recovering from bumps, and cause excess head toss in corners plus get the rear out of sync after a series of lumps. The difference was marked with my M2 bouncing much less than our F20 also.

This week I softened rebound 3 clicks and compression 2 clicks all round and it is now really quite supple - really breathing nicely over any deflection and barely a bounce at all. Nothing will disguise its 1500kg, big wheels and significant unsprung weight but it’s a super-impressive compromise.

As for the HAS spring kit - no personal experience with it but not sure it could help the bounce as that’s generally a damping issue. Plus there’s much said on here about the medium term downsides of lowering springs on stock shocks...

[kart driver]

Tried to change the settings from:

Front: rebound - 9 clicks, pressure - 6 clicks
Rear: rebound - 12 clicks, pressure - 6 clicks


to:

Front: rebound - 9 clicks, pressure - 9 clicks
Rear: rebound - 12 clicks, pressure - 9 clicks


For poor roads changing the pressure from 6 to 9 is what I would highly recommend.

P.S. My M2C has Millway camber plates street version.

[johnnydad]

Originally Posted by kart driver

Tried to change the settings from:

Front: rebound - 9 clicks, pressure - 6 clicks
Rear: rebound - 12 clicks, pressure - 6 clicks


to:

Front: rebound - 9 clicks, pressure - 9 clicks
Rear: rebound - 12 clicks, pressure - 9 clicks


For poor roads changing the pressure from 6 to 9 is what I would highly recommend.

P.S. My M2C has Millway camber plates street version.

Interesting - could you expand on the differences you have noticed?

I had thought that softening rebound was important in giving a more gentle day-to-day ride, hence why I experimented with greater rebound than compression reduction.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Connors5453

KW Has kit is great option!

ANY set of springs will kill your stock suspension quite quickly, especially if it's got a few miles on it (springs alone seem to have a slower destruction rate if you replace the struts at the same time). It's coil-overs for this car or stock suspension, unfortunately.

Originally Posted by johnnydad

I’m puzzled about the bounce comments

I think maybe people describe things in different ways.

My street is relatively smooth without any large bumps. The moment I swapped to the MPS I noticed that there was more up/down movement in the car, and my wife noticed immediately that her boobs shook more (not a bad thing IMO lol). That's not to say that it was more rough, as it was undoubtedly softer, just with more movement. And we're talking about 30 mph here.

On the larger bumps the MPS creates LESS movement, and a significantly less crashy ride.

[kart driver]

Originally Posted by johnnydad

Interesting - could you expand on the differences you have noticed?

I had thought that softening rebound was important in giving a more gentle day-to-day ride, hence why I experimented with greater rebound than compression reduction.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=262


Adjusting the pressure of the front to a softer setting will ensure more “compliant handling”

[johnnydad]

Originally Posted by kart driver

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=262


Adjusting the pressure of the front to a softer setting will ensure more “compliant handling”

Yes I know!

And in that link it suggests softening compression (is that what you mean by ‘pressure’?) gives ‘more compliant handling’ but that reducing rebound is what gives an improved low speed ride.

Don’t worry to explain, I can try it myself in 5 minutes!!

[mrcheezle19]

Would need video for further research purposes. MPS will be my next mod for sure.

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

My street is relatively smooth without any large bumps. The moment I swapped to the MPS I noticed that there was more up/down movement in the car, and my wife noticed immediately that her boobs shook more (not a bad thing IMO lol). That's not to say that it was more rough, as it was undoubtedly softer, just with more movement. And we're talking about 30 mph here

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

My street is relatively smooth without any large bumps. The moment I swapped to the MPS I noticed that there was more up/down movement in the car, and my wife noticed immediately that her boobs shook more (not a bad thing IMO lol). That's not to say that it was more rough, as it was undoubtedly softer, just with more movement. And we're talking about 30 mph here.

Higher spring rates mean less compliance at low speeds.

From the sound of it, you should experiment on a number of different surfaces...

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Higher spring rates mean less compliance at low speeds.

From the sound of it, you should experiment on a number of different surfaces...

I'm so happy with the suspension that I'm leaving it as-is. And I appreciate all the help you gave me!

[x233]

Originally Posted by kart driver

Tried to change the settings from:

Front: rebound - 9 clicks, pressure - 6 clicks
Rear: rebound - 12 clicks, pressure - 6 clicks


to:

Front: rebound - 9 clicks, pressure - 9 clicks
Rear: rebound - 12 clicks, pressure - 9 clicks


For poor roads changing the pressure from 6 to 9 is what I would highly recommend.

P.S. My M2C has Millway camber plates street version.

Now that it's cold and damp, I changed just the rebound 1 click softer (from the default street setting) on all four corners and it really helps with a) traction in inclement weather, b) grip of the front tires, and c) comfort on poor roads. The steering is not as sharp (especially noticeable on MP4S vs MPSS tires) but I'd rather deal with that than loss of grip & traction.

[x233]

A bit of disappointment here. Installed winter tires last night, Michelin PA4 245/35/19 and 265/35/19 (oem summer sizes). Have a rub in the front at the wheel turn, not full lock, just turning at any speed, and on bumps in the rear.

The car is lowered on MP coilovers per BMW recommendations (to 595 mm front and 600 mm rear, double-checked that). Rebound and compression are set to the factory defaults. 437M wheels. No spacers.

Didn't notice any issues on summer Michelin PSP and SP4S tires. The winters do seem a bit taller and a bit wider, maybe 5 mm taller and maybe 5 mm wider. Crazy how tight the tolerances are...

Now contemplating my options:

a) a heat gun and a stick to try to "fix" the plastic liners so there is 5 mm more of clearance,
b) raising the suspension (something I really do not want to do since that's more time-consuming and involves quite a bit of guesswork until you get it right, and a re-alignment)
c) consider narrower/lower tires (not too keen about the idea, either)
d) wonder if using 437M wheel instead of my summer 763M wheel has anything to do with it (unlikely)

Going to try to the heat gun first.


(driver's front)


(driver's front)


(driver's rear)

PS: Anyone know by how much 1 full turn of the spring perch raises the front? By how much 1 full turn raises the rear?

[KHAP13]

Originally Posted by Yadadameans

About 8k miles on my M performance coilovers and front driver side started leaking oil and making noises going over bumps. Anyone know if its possible to rebuild these coilovers?

What kind of noise is it making over bumps?

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by x233

A bit of disappointment here.

Someone didn't do their research.

The Michelin Pilot Alpin PA4 runs VERY WIDE. You're talking 18mm in the front, which is 9mm on each side, and I have no idea about the rear because I can't find the numbers, but I suspect it's the same story, there's just more clearance back there.

[kart driver]

Originally Posted by x233

A bit of disappointment here. Installed winter tires last night, Michelin PA4 245/35/19 and 265/35/19 (oem summer sizes). Have a rub in the front at the wheel turn, not full lock, just turning at any speed, and on bumps in the rear.

The car is lowered on MP coilovers per BMW recommendations (to 595 mm front and 600 mm rear, double-checked that). Rebound and compression are set to the factory defaults. 437M wheels. No spacers.

Didn't notice any issues on summer Michelin PSP and SP4S tires. The winters do seem a bit taller and a bit wider, maybe 5 mm taller and maybe 5 mm wider. Crazy how tight the tolerances are...

Now contemplating my options:

a) a heat gun and a stick to try to "fix" the plastic liners so there is 5 mm more of clearance,
b) raising the suspension (something I really do not want to do since that's more time-consuming and involves quite a bit of guesswork until you get it right, and a re-alignment)
c) consider narrower/lower tires (not too keen about the idea, either)
d) wonder if using 437M wheel instead of my summer 763M wheel has anything to do with it (unlikely)

PS: Anyone know by how much 1 full turn of the spring perch raises the front? By how much 1 full turn raises the rear?

Didn’t have any problem with PA4 on 245+265 for 2 winters on stock suspension. Changing to winter tires today or tomorrow on M Perfomance suspension and will report if there is any rubbing.

[x233]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Someone didn't do their research.

True. I didn't. Had the same tires mounted last winter on the stock suspension with no issues. I knew the PA4s run a bit wider but didn't realize by how much. Didn't really know the plastic liner inside the wheels wells had those funny bulges the tires would hit even when lowered moderately, but not when stock.

Don't know if the heat gun is going to cure it but I'm going to try that first. It seems like 5 mm may be enough and hopefully I can bend the plastic just enough without breaking anything...

Hate to think of more complex/expensive solutions...

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by x233

True. I didn't. Had the same tires mounted last winter on the stock suspension with no issues. I knew the PA4s run a bit wider but didn't realize by how much. Didn't really know the plastic liner inside the wheels wells had those funny bulges the tires would hit even when lowered moderately, but not when stock.

Don't know if the heat gun is going to cure it but I'm going to try that first. It seems like 5 mm may be enough and hopefully I can bend the plastic just enough without breaking anything...

Hate to think of more complex/expensive solutions...

I'm sure a heat gun will fix it, no worries there.

[kart driver]

Originally Posted by kart driver

Didn’t have any problem with PA4 on 245+265 for 2 winters on stock suspension. Changing to winter tires today or tomorrow on M Perfomance suspension and will report if there is any rubbing.

No rubbing on MP coilovers.
I have to admit it is close but still not rubbing.

[x233]

Originally Posted by kart driver

No rubbing on MP coilovers.
I have to admit it is close but still not rubbing.

I think you run camber plates. Could be a factor. How much camber do you run on the street?

(probably could still hit the plastic a) in the front in turns on bumps at speed and b) in the rear when loaded or c) giving it full throttle over a bumpy road. you may have to take a second look after a while)