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      09-26-2020, 09:02 PM   #1
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Broken Wheel Stud

Was swapping between track wheels and street wheels when I tightened the first rear driver's side to something less than my goal and the stud snapped off in the hub. I removed all the others on that wheel to check them out and they look good.

I am curious about two things: 1) anyone else deal with this type of thing? I've been wondering how much of a wear items these are. 2) How would you recommend getting the remaining stud out of the hub? All that's left is the threaded part that goes into the hub...so it looks like drilling will be best, but then what does that look like (guidance)?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
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      09-26-2020, 09:32 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M2guru View Post
Was swapping between track wheels and street wheels when I tightened the first rear driver's side to something less than my goal and the stud snapped off in the hub. I removed all the others on that wheel to check them out and they look good.

I am curious about two things: 1) anyone else deal with this type of thing? I've been wondering how much of a wear items these are. 2) How would you recommend getting the remaining stud out of the hub? All that's left is the threaded part that goes into the hub...so it looks like drilling will be best, but then what does that look like (guidance)?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Maybe a picture would help on seeing the best way to extract the stud, but in general, drilling it is the straight forward method.

I'm curious, what brand studs are these? Also, any indication on how and when it happened?
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      09-26-2020, 09:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poweredbym View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M2guru View Post
Was swapping between track wheels and street wheels when I tightened the first rear driver's side to something less than my goal and the stud snapped off in the hub. I removed all the others on that wheel to check them out and they look good.

I am curious about two things: 1) anyone else deal with this type of thing? I've been wondering how much of a wear items these are. 2) How would you recommend getting the remaining stud out of the hub? All that's left is the threaded part that goes into the hub...so it looks like drilling will be best, but then what does that look like (guidance)?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Maybe a picture would help on seeing the best way to extract the stud, but in general, drilling it is the straight forward method.

I'm curious, what brand studs are these? Also, any indication on how and when it happened?
I forgot some of those details. Motorsportshardware. 2.5 years old and 16000 miles. One winter. No clear reason for it. Thinking of replacing them all. Not sure if I'll find a new brand or not. Picture will come tomorrow when I take the rotor off to get a better look.
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      09-26-2020, 09:39 PM   #4
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Studs are for sure a wear item. I've talked to a number of amateur/pro racing teams that I've had the opportunity to encounter and they all had a variety of recommendations for track time before replacement. My personal approach is about every 3 years, which for me is about 50 days.

Considering you found one bad stud, I would suggest you replace the entire set across all of the axles. We had a fellow instructor a few years ago at WGI replace all of the studs on one wheel after noticing a cracked stud only to loose the other front wheel due to another bad stud. He didn't end up having a good day.
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      09-26-2020, 10:14 PM   #5
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My Motorsports Hardware studs lasted around 18 months/20k miles. Should’ve replaced them at 17 months.

Similar situation for me as it happened at the track while torquing up my wheels. Fortunately the event had contracted to have mechanical support who lent a hand. Had to drill out, then EZ-out, the one I found was broken, plus two more that broke while trying to extract them. Fortunately had my OE lug bolts in my track box, and just missed the first couple hours of the day. Had to run out for the correct size EZ-out.

As convenient as studs are for wheel swaps, seeing how these all broke right at the hub face, and talking with others while sorting it out, I became convinced that the failure mode for bolts -at the bolt shoulder rather than the hub face- is much easier to deal with than a broken stud.

Switched back to bolts when I got home.

Probably best to consider them annual maintenance if you stick with studs.
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      09-27-2020, 10:10 AM   #6
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That went much easier than expected!
  • Remove caliper from hub
    Remove two hex rotor retaining bolts
    Release parking brake
    Remove rotor
    Center punch the remaining stud as close to center as possible
    Drill a 1/16 inch hole through the stud
    Drill a 1/8 inch hole through the stud
    Drill a 1/4 hole through the stud

After I drilled the 1/16 inch hole in the remaining stud, it started to turn. I don't think I actually used the 1/4 bit - it came out with the 1/8 bit. This was with using red loctite.







I'll be replacing all of them annually after this experience and seeing this page: https://www.core4motorsports.com/gal...mw-wheel-studs Or I'll be considering their press-in stud conversion.

Last edited by M2guru; 09-27-2020 at 10:35 AM..
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      09-27-2020, 11:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M2guru View Post

I'll be replacing all of them annually after this experience and seeing this page: https://www.core4motorsports.com/gal...mw-wheel-studs Or I'll be considering their press-in stud conversion.
Glad you got it sorted out. The heat from drilling seemed to loosen mine up as well.

These press in studs are interesting. If nothing else, even if they break, it’s much easier to punch one out and press in new, but if they’re actually stronger where it counts, and won’t break in the first place, great!

I’m going to keep this in mind for when the wheel bearings need replacing. Thanks for sharing.
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      09-27-2020, 03:54 PM   #8
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Oh...and another thing...I bought this to chase the threads after the red loctite: https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Limited-...40510059&psc=1
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      09-27-2020, 08:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M2guru View Post
That went much easier than expected!
  • Remove caliper from hub
    Remove two hex rotor retaining bolts
    Release parking brake
    Remove rotor
    Center punch the remaining stud as close to center as possible
    Drill a 1/16 inch hole through the stud
    Drill a 1/8 inch hole through the stud
    Drill a 1/4 hole through the stud

After I drilled the 1/16 inch hole in the remaining stud, it started to turn. I don't think I actually used the 1/4 bit - it came out with the 1/8 bit. This was with using red loctite.

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1.../IMG_9811.jpeg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X.../IMG_9805.jpeg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v.../IMG_9812.jpeg[/IMG]

I'll be replacing all of them annually after this experience and seeing this page: https://www.core4motorsports.com/gal...mw-wheel-studs Or I'll be considering their press-in stud conversion.
Go with the Core4 press-in MSI solution. You won't regret it! I'm surprised you broke a rear stud, I thought the fronts were the primary culprit.
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      09-27-2020, 08:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M2guru View Post
That went much easier than expected!
  • Remove caliper from hub
    Remove two hex rotor retaining bolts
    Release parking brake
    Remove rotor
    Center punch the remaining stud as close to center as possible
    Drill a 1/16 inch hole through the stud
    Drill a 1/8 inch hole through the stud
    Drill a 1/4 hole through the stud

After I drilled the 1/16 inch hole in the remaining stud, it started to turn. I don't think I actually used the 1/4 bit - it came out with the 1/8 bit. This was with using red loctite.

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1.../IMG_9811.jpeg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X.../IMG_9805.jpeg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v.../IMG_9812.jpeg[/IMG]

I'll be replacing all of them annually after this experience and seeing this page: https://www.core4motorsports.com/gal...mw-wheel-studs Or I'll be considering their press-in stud conversion.
Go with the Core4 press-in MSI solution. You won't regret it! I'm surprised you broke a rear stud, I thought the fronts were the primary culprit.
Was thinking the same thing. I thought the fronts would be more susceptible to breaking.
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      09-27-2020, 10:09 PM   #11
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Wheel Studs

I have a set of Apex wheel studs which have become worn and have shavings which come off when removing lugs. I will be replacing them after one season of tracking. Am not impressed with the quality of them. I will be replacing them with Matt Schnell Wheel Studs.
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      09-27-2020, 10:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief1richard View Post
I have a set of Apex wheel studs which have become worn and have shavings which come off when removing lugs. I will be replacing them after one season of tracking. Am not impressed with the quality of them. I will be replacing them with Matt Schnell Wheel Studs.
While I was dealing with the broken studs I posted a photo of above, at least three people asked me if they were Apex studs, including the tech that was helping to remove them. I was running Apex wheels, and studs were not Apex, but feel free to read into that what you may.
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      09-28-2020, 01:20 AM   #13
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One year old apex wheel studs . . .
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      09-28-2020, 08:44 AM   #14
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Anyone with experience on lubricating the lug nut seat, as described here?

https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech
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      09-28-2020, 10:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytona_550 View Post
Anyone with experience on lubricating the lug nut seat, as described here?

https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech
Yup. Super simple! Or use a nut with the separate rotating seat.
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      09-28-2020, 12:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytona_550 View Post
Anyone with experience on lubricating the lug nut seat, as described here?

https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech
Yup. Super simple! Or use a nut with the separate rotating seat.
When lubricated, do you then apply the normal 103 lb-ft torque?
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      09-28-2020, 01:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentom2 View Post
While I was dealing with the broken studs I posted a photo of above, at least three people asked me if they were Apex studs, including the tech that was helping to remove them. I was running Apex wheels, and studs were not Apex, but feel free to read into that what you may.
Not reading anything into your post. Just sharing my experience with Apex Studs.
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      09-28-2020, 01:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytona_550 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytona_550 View Post
Anyone with experience on lubricating the lug nut seat, as described here?

https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech
Yup. Super simple! Or use a nut with the separate rotating seat.
When lubricated, do you then apply the normal 103 lb-ft torque?
Yes - I'm on the M12 version (e9x M) and thus torque to 90ft lbs. I have since went with Muteki lug nuts at Tom's recommendation as it eliminates the lubricant requirement.

But read through this if you haven't. Given they're a race team first, they're super helpful with sharing best practices and their learnings!

https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech
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