[edycol]

Originally Posted by F87source

It would be excellent for track use, you can confirm via a UOA for your own use case.

But if you drive it alot on the street it would be best to switch to a more streetable oil as 300v breaks down due to oxidation far too quickly for street use. It also doesn't have the greatest additive pack for daily use.


but iirc edy should have some UOA of 300v for you to see.

I haven’t seen 300V in S55, but it has remarkable record in other engines when it is abused on the track. It is serious track weapon, to put it this way.
But, issue is detergency in abuse on the street. It is not designed for such exploitation.
That being said, new version is more friendly to street use. There is less ester and more PAO. I think Motul realized that a lot of people use this oil in daily driven cars.
gmhl10
Still, for 1-2 track days in 5k OCI, I wouldn’t go. Any Porsche A40 approved oil will do good on track. Motul X-Cess 5W40, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 would be my two go to oils if car is still under warranty. If not, add Mobil1 0W40 and Castrol Edge 0W40.

If there are more track days, I would try 300V and do UOA.

[mojo9]

edycol, I have appreciated all the knowledge I have now gained from reading your posts. I'm very new to BMW (N52 in an X3, my apologies to posting in the wrong forum) and have read a lot in the last 24 hours on the knowledge contained here. My N52 has a lifter issue (knocking) and my mechanic added Lucas to add viscosity and try to quiet the lifter. I'm not sure if that's a great idea (I'm generally not one to add extra additives) and given we are fast approaching single digit weather, I'm wondering if adding M1 Euro 5w40 would be a great way to clean out the engine and then move to Castrol Edge Euro 5w40 (or PP Euro 5w40). I like the idea of the 0w40, however the owners manual calls for 5w30 or 5w40. I can take it to the dealer to put in the BWM version, I would rather give the engine a fresh start and save some cash and do it myself Any thoughts here? Thank you.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by mojo9

edycol, I have appreciated all the knowledge I have now gained from reading your posts. I'm very new to BMW (N52 in an X3, my apologies to posting in the wrong forum) and have read a lot in the last 24 hours on the knowledge contained here. My N52 has a lifter issue (knocking) and my mechanic added Lucas to add viscosity and try to quiet the lifter. I'm not sure if that's a great idea (I'm generally not one to add extra additives) and given we are fast approaching single digit weather, I'm wondering if adding M1 Euro 5w40 would be a great way to clean out the engine and then move to Castrol Edge Euro 5w40 (or PP Euro 5w40). I like the idea of the 0w40, however the owners manual calls for 5w30 or 5w40. I can take it to the dealer to put in the BWM version, I would rather give the engine a fresh start and save some cash and do it myself Any thoughts here? Thank you.

I know you asked edy, but since you have an N52 and are presumably well out of warranty I would just run M1 0W-40 or Castrol Edge 0W-30 or 0W-40. M1 0W-40 is a great oil and since you don't have direct injection there are no concerns about SAPS or deposits.

[mojo9]

Originally Posted by chris719

I know you asked edy, but since you have an N52 and are presumably well out of warranty I would just run M1 0W-40 or Castrol Edge 0W-30 or 0W-40. M1 0W-40 is a great oil and since you don't have direct injection there are no concerns about SAPS or deposits.

Thanks for the response. So, even though the manual says 5w30/40, its ok to go with the lower end on 0 weight? I'm looking to change out of having the Lucas additive in the engine, as the knocking is still there and I'm not sure what kind of maintenance was done with the vehicle prior to me owning it. I've been quoted on fixing the lifter, the concern is the cam might need to be replaced, according to the Indy I went to and Lucas was his cheaper fix. Also realizing that any damage up to this point may be baked in, I would like to keep it running in good shape and not contribute to an earlier demise.

Being new to BMW and realizing how different these engines are compared to what I was used to (Ford/GM), trying to learn as much as possible. I appreciate the advice.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by mojo9

Thanks for the response. So, even though the manual says 5w30/40, its ok to go with the lower end on 0 weight? I'm looking to change out of having the Lucas additive in the engine, as the knocking is still there and I'm not sure what kind of maintenance was done with the vehicle prior to me owning it. I've been quoted on fixing the lifter, the concern is the cam might need to be replaced, according to the Indy I went to and Lucas was his cheaper fix. Also realizing that any damage up to this point may be baked in, I would like to keep it running in good shape and not contribute to an earlier demise.

Being new to BMW and realizing how different these engines are compared to what I was used to (Ford/GM), trying to learn as much as possible. I appreciate the advice.

Yes, for example, for a 0W-30 the 0 is the cold viscosity rating obviously. It's important to remember it's a curve and not a fixed value, so an SAE 0 oil is still thicker at 0C than an SAE 30 is at 100C. Basically, even the 0 is thicker than ideal at startup, and when the engine reaches operating temperature it is the same 30 or 40 as your 5W-30 or 5W-40. There's no real downside to running a 0W-XX vs a 5W-XX except possibly cost or shear stability when you get to large spreads.

This is in Spanish but shows it well.

[mojo9]

Originally Posted by chris719

Yes, for example, for a 0W-30 the 0 is the cold viscosity rating obviously. It's important to remember it's a curve and not a fixed value, so an SAE 0 oil is still thicker at 0C than an SAE 30 is at 100C. Basically, even the 0 is thicker than ideal at startup, and when the engine reaches operating temperature it is the same 30 or 40 as your 5W-30 or 5W-40. There's no real downside to running a 0W-XX vs a 5W-XX except possibly cost or shear stability when you get to large spreads.

This is in Spanish but shows it well.

Thanks Chris for the great response. Awesome chart. I'm in northern IN by the lake, temps will drop soon (not AK and no elevation issues like edycol), so I wanted to be consistent. I had read on another thread from edycol how the M1 is a good oil to clean your engine (as opposed to using a flush, which I know is a no-no). Even though the discussion thread was geared toward different engines (as opposed to the N52), I wanted to make sure. I might give M1 a shot on the next change and then switch to either Castrol Edge 0w40 (assuming the Porsche A40 designation remains) or move to PP, Valvoline or Quaker State. I did a lot of reading yesterday.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by mojo9

Thanks Chris for the great response. Awesome chart. I'm in northern IN by the lake, temps will drop soon (not AK and no elevation issues like edycol), so I wanted to be consistent. I had read on another thread from edycol how the M1 is a good oil to clean your engine (as opposed to using a flush, which I know is a no-no). Even though the discussion thread was geared toward different engines (as opposed to the N52), I wanted to make sure. I might give M1 a shot on the next change and then switch to either Castrol Edge 0w40 (assuming the Porsche A40 designation remains) or move to PP, Valvoline or Quaker State. I did a lot of reading yesterday.

Sorry, I have not checked this before. Just put “@“ in front of edycol and I will get notification.
I own E90 328 with N52 and I track that car besides being my daily.
Use Mobil1 0W40, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Quaker State Euro 5W40, Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2, Castrol Edge 0W40 or Valvoline European Vehicle 5W40.
Lifter noise won’t be resolved with oil. But what will help you is some good italian tune up, meaning once you warm up car, beat the shit out of it.
I track my car and never had lifter nosie!

[Brandt51]

This was not the typical Internet forum oils thread I was expecting.