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      02-11-2020, 03:39 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
On the M2 I decided not to run a high end shock like Moton, JRZ, AST, MCS's etc.
The reasoning is rebuilds. I have a set of JRZ Pro's on my 17 Miata RF and I had 2 blown shocks at the 20K mark. I drive my M2 on the street and wanted a strut that was bulletproof. I've run TCK's before and they were bulletproof.

It cost me $2K to pull my JRZ's send them out have them rebuilt then reinstalled with a comp alignment. I love the JRZ's, but not the upkeep....
My understanding is the camber plates on the TC's are not very adjustable? I like the sound of softer springs though, I don't mind a touch of roll so you can feel the weight transfer.
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      02-11-2020, 06:10 PM   #46
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Yes they are set increments on the TCK plates.

Again if your looking to dial in your camber to very specific settings get GC plates, or another brand.

I might eventually do that myself but for now the TCK plates maxed out give right around 3.0 Negative, more if you reverse them...

400F/700R are not that soft :-)
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      02-11-2020, 08:46 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
Yes they are set increments on the TCK plates.

Again if your looking to dial in your camber to very specific settings get GC plates, or another brand.

I might eventually do that myself but for now the TCK plates maxed out give right around 3.0 Negative, more if you reverse them...

400F/700R are not that soft :-)
I like to run set and forget, on my M3 I had -2.6 up front and it worked well. Rates are very soft when you compare to stock Ohlins rates, even softest JRZ rates would be looking at 500 up front. Sounds similar to the M performance coils. Definitely an option though, interested to hear some track feedback!
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      02-12-2020, 06:46 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Montaver View Post
.. I don't mind a touch of roll so you can feel the weight transfer.
I agree with that entirely, and I know that is also the opinion of TCK (there's a whole article about it on his [old school] website). I bought the 300/600 springs and I think he offers 400/700 as well.

That said, Steve Ott (well known to me and McVaughan) runs our local shop and is an ex-IMSA driver as well. He was telling me about a book he was recently reading about suspension that basically says the car should be absolutely as stiff as possible, and even though that is hard to drive, its the "job of the driver" to sort out the car... and that it will only generate its max grip by allowing the tires to get to their max potential - and that would only occur with a super stiff setup. Dont on me here, I might be missing a key detail to the reasoning.... but I do remember the take home point of this particular book was super stiff is the way to go.
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      02-13-2020, 11:42 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malakas View Post
I agree with that entirely, and I know that is also the opinion of TCK (there's a whole article about it on his [old school] website). I bought the 300/600 springs and I think he offers 400/700 as well.

That said, Steve Ott (well known to me and McVaughan) runs our local shop and is an ex-IMSA driver as well. He was telling me about a book he was recently reading about suspension that basically says the car should be absolutely as stiff as possible, and even though that is hard to drive, its the "job of the driver" to sort out the car... and that it will only generate its max grip by allowing the tires to get to their max potential - and that would only occur with a super stiff setup. Dont on me here, I might be missing a key detail to the reasoning.... but I do remember the take home point of this particular book was super stiff is the way to go.
To me stiffer is better (that's what she said... sorry had to do it) is kind of a generalization. I think the emphasis needs to be on that it is situation dependent - more like it needs to be as stiff as possible without being over stiff for that particular situation, not so much caught up on super stiff is always the way to go. 300/600 doesn't sound like it is super stiff - but it might be the optimal rate for the current conditions. Or the optimal compromise on a street/track car. I do think stiffer is faster - but you can definitely get to a point where the springs are too stiff.
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      02-13-2020, 01:50 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG Shark View Post
To me stiffer is better (that's what she said... sorry had to do it) is kind of a generalization. I think the emphasis needs to be on that it is situation dependent - more like it needs to be as stiff as possible without being over stiff for that particular situation, not so much caught up on super stiff is always the way to go. 300/600 doesn't sound like it is super stiff - but it might be the optimal rate for the current conditions. Or the optimal compromise on a street/track car. I do think stiffer is faster - but you can definitely get to a point where the springs are too stiff.
I read somewhere that if the car has sufficient aerodynamics such that with speed the car is very planted with downforce, that then the stiffer the better. This also assumes a fairly smooth track.
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      02-13-2020, 02:20 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by infinitekidM2C View Post
I read somewhere that if the car has sufficient aerodynamics such that with speed the car is very planted with downforce, that then the stiffer the better. This also assumes a fairly smooth track.
Yeah down force, ride height, surface conditions, all that good stuff should be accounted for when choosing spring rates. Would be interesting to see how much (I'm assuming they do) F1 teams change their rates between their different aero packages.
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