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      10-19-2016, 07:11 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotballs View Post
Sat in a 2017 m2 today and it had these buttons! I think they are quick presets to change between driving modes.
That's strange....there are quite a few folks who've received MY2017 cars, but none of them ever mentioned new M buttons on their steering wheel...

Dabozo ...can you comment?
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      10-19-2016, 09:22 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ex-MINI View Post
That's strange....there are quite a few folks who've received MY2017 cars, but none of them ever mentioned new M buttons on their steering wheel...

Dabozo ...can you comment?
I have a '17 and it is still dummy blank buttons on my car!
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      10-19-2016, 10:06 AM   #25
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I am picking up my 2017 M2 on Friday. I will post what I find out.
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      10-19-2016, 09:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotballs View Post
Sat in a 2017 m2 today and it had these buttons! I think they are quick presets to change between driving modes.
Very keen to see if this is the case, can you get some pics?
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      10-19-2016, 10:04 PM   #27
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My 17 has blanks
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      10-20-2016, 12:04 AM   #28
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My 17 has blanks
Mine too.
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      10-20-2016, 02:45 AM   #29
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      10-24-2016, 09:46 PM   #30
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Yeah I looked at the photos of the car I sat in and can't see them anymore. I just distinctly remember see M1 and M2 with little circles on them somewhere in the interior. I sat in 2 m2s and a m235i. Can't imagine it was in the m235i.
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      09-20-2017, 08:20 AM   #31
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My2017 M2 has blanks, however I purchased a set of M4 switches with the M1 & M2 buttons but alas no operation. I haven't fiddled with any coding yet.
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      09-20-2017, 03:36 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrenb View Post
My2017 M2 has blanks, however I purchased a set of M4 switches with the M1 & M2 buttons but alas no operation. I haven't fiddled with any coding yet.
I don't expect it will do anything...but I wonder if you could set them to exhaust modes (like the Macht Schnell and AWRON exhaust functions)
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      09-28-2017, 12:26 PM   #33
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Having it set the MPE exhaust track mode on/off and reclaim the cupholder would be an amazing thing to have!
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      12-21-2017, 10:22 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEM-S4 View Post
Would be a perfect spot to wire the mute switch for a radar detector.
+1 on this.
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      08-20-2018, 09:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twix View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twix View Post
There shouldn't be current loss. Voltage drop at the connection, maybe, but would be very minimal if done right. It's just a switch like any other.
Sounds good and promising then...just a thought though are switches not on the can-bus-thingie?
The wires from the switch will go to a controller or a relay. the switch is the dumb part, meaning it just completes a circuit. The controller just needs a signal and won't care where it comes from.

The button on the console should be a3 position rocker switch and the switches on the steering wheel would need to match that. The common wire for the neutral position will need to be on both steering wheel buttons. Then one of each "up" and "down" to each of the buttons on the steering wheel. If that makes sense.

PM me if you want me to draw you up a wiring diagram. I won't be able to do one until later on next week because I'm at work and don't have access to BMW factory drawings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twix View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twix View Post
There shouldn't be current loss. Voltage drop at the connection, maybe, but would be very minimal if done right. It's just a switch like any other.
Sounds good and promising then...just a thought though are switches not on the can-bus-thingie?
The wires from the switch will go to a controller or a relay. the switch is the dumb part, meaning it just completes a circuit. The controller just needs a signal and won't care where it comes from.

The button on the console should be a3 position rocker switch and the switches on the steering wheel would need to match that. The common wire for the neutral position will need to be on both steering wheel buttons. Then one of each "up" and "down" to each of the buttons on the steering wheel. If that makes sense.

PM me if you want me to draw you up a wiring diagram. I won't be able to do one until later on next week because I'm at work and don't have access to BMW factory drawings.
has anyone actually tried this yet? was thinking of getting the blue ones from IND for my 2018 M2. would be great if we could use them to toggle up or down for comfort, sport, and sport+. not sure what else I would use them for. unless we could actually make them functional in our M2's.
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      08-20-2018, 09:51 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prollig View Post
Yeah I looked at the photos of the car I sat in and can't see them anymore. I just distinctly remember see M1 and M2 with little circles on them somewhere in the interior. I sat in 2 m2s and a m235i. Can't imagine it was in the m235i.
As I recall the m240i has those buttons, but not the M2.
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      08-24-2018, 05:15 PM   #37
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No m240i does not have them
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      12-29-2019, 03:15 PM   #38
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But can they be mapped to other uses?
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      03-29-2020, 04:04 PM   #39
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Hi guys,
sorry to revive an old thread, but at least the coronavirus is good for one thing - giving me time to fiddle with my car. I've made some progress on this idea.

I've disassembled the steering wheel to see how the controls work. The blank buttons have a working circuit underneath them, which is good, the bad news is that there are two LED's missing, which means you'd have to find the correct LED's and solder them on, or the buttons wouldn't light up at night. A minor issue, but still.

The left button cluster (where the blanks are) has analog pins that go to the right cluster, where there is presumably a LIN slave that then sends a digital signal through the steering wheel clock spring, at which point it is useless to us. To get working buttons, you need to intercept the analog signal before it gets to the LIN node in the steering wheel.

I've been able to find the correct pins for both blank buttons, one is pin 1 and 6, the other pin 3,4 (see attachment). Now it's a matter splicing the 4 wires and finding a way to route them through the steering wheel separately. I don't think there is a way to route the wires other than going through the clock spring (that's the thing that allows you to turn the wheel without severing the wires). There are two connectors on the steering wheel that go through the spring. One is for the LIN stuff and has one empty pin on it and the other is for the airbag, which has 4 empty pins. If you have a heated steering wheel/or lane assist, you have an additional connector AFAIK. I don't so I don't know if there are any empty pins there...

I've seen people retrofit a heated steering wheel and wire it through the empty pins on the airbag connector instead of buying a new clock spring. You could do the same thing here, and it would be just 2 buttons instead of a heating element, but I'm still a bit unsure about doing that, since I don't want an airbag exploding in my face Another option would be to buy a new clock spring which has the additional connector for the heated steering wheel function and you could use that, but I'm guessing that would be pricey.

Anyway this is doable and I just need the right pins to fit the connectors and I'll be all set. I will be using the buttons to control my P3 gauge, but they could be used for anything What do you guys think?
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      03-30-2020, 02:53 PM   #40
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Looking forward to seeing where this goes!
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      04-01-2020, 04:06 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gosi View Post
Hi guys,
sorry to revive an old thread, but at least the coronavirus is good for one thing - giving me time to fiddle with my car. I've made some progress on this idea.

I've disassembled the steering wheel to see how the controls work. The blank buttons have a working circuit underneath them, which is good, the bad news is that there are two LED's missing, which means you'd have to find the correct LED's and solder them on, or the buttons wouldn't light up at night. A minor issue, but still.

The left button cluster (where the blanks are) has analog pins that go to the right cluster, where there is presumably a LIN slave that then sends a digital signal through the steering wheel clock spring, at which point it is useless to us. To get working buttons, you need to intercept the analog signal before it gets to the LIN node in the steering wheel.

I've been able to find the correct pins for both blank buttons, one is pin 1 and 6, the other pin 3,4 (see attachment). Now it's a matter splicing the 4 wires and finding a way to route them through the steering wheel separately. I don't think there is a way to route the wires other than going through the clock spring (that's the thing that allows you to turn the wheel without severing the wires). There are two connectors on the steering wheel that go through the spring. One is for the LIN stuff and has one empty pin on it and the other is for the airbag, which has 4 empty pins. If you have a heated steering wheel/or lane assist, you have an additional connector AFAIK. I don't so I don't know if there are any empty pins there...

I've seen people retrofit a heated steering wheel and wire it through the empty pins on the airbag connector instead of buying a new clock spring. You could do the same thing here, and it would be just 2 buttons instead of a heating element, but I'm still a bit unsure about doing that, since I don't want an airbag exploding in my face Another option would be to buy a new clock spring which has the additional connector for the heated steering wheel function and you could use that, but I'm guessing that would be pricey.

Anyway this is doable and I just need the right pins to fit the connectors and I'll be all set. I will be using the buttons to control my P3 gauge, but they could be used for anything What do you guys think?
Awesome!

One thing that comes to mind is the disassembling the bluetooth controller for MPE or the "garage opener" for the VSC-1 (https://x-ph.com/cg-precision-vsc-1-...nd-controller/). That way you would not have to run any wires through the clock spring. The only question is whether or not there is enough clearance in that area for the electronics + batteries. May be possible to just run the wires out and tape/glue the electronics/batteries to the backside or underside of the wheel.
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      05-12-2020, 04:13 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yabba View Post
Hi gosi thanks for the update that sounds awesome. How far did you get with the M buttons working as i would love to code drive modes on the steering wheel
I’ve ordered blue M1, M2 buttons to replace the blank ones that are in the wheel now. I still have to install them and I’m waiting for a wireless relay that I’ve also ordered to come, since I’ve decided against wiring through the clock spring for the moment. That way I can also easily switch functions for the buttons if I want to. My only worry is if the wireless relay will have a fast enough response time.

I will post an update when I get all the parts and get around to doing it
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      05-12-2020, 06:16 PM   #43
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"To get working buttons, you need to intercept the analog signal before it gets to the LIN node in the steering wheel."

"Working" in this context means "used for things other than the M1/M2 functionality", yes? Sounds like if someone wanted to map M1 to sport and M2 to sport+ or whatever, the steps are "buy and install the buttons" followed by "enable the buttons via FDL coding in E-sys"?

EDIT: Spent a half hour screwing around in E-Sys. Looks like FEM_BODY > 3140 PfLinSteeringWheel > LIN_VARIANTE_MFL > "DCC_Sports" should be set to "DCC_M_Drive" (or "SLD_DCC_M_Drive"). Would someone with an M2C and/or an M3/4 with the buttons installed mind taking a look at this setting and letting us know what it is?

As for the LEDs, if you post a picture of the existing circuit board I can probably get a part number. I assume they're just orange surface mount LEDs in 0402, 0603, or 0805 size, plus a resistor of some value in the same size. Since the other buttons are backlit, the parts should already be there.

EDIT 2: Some folks on the German 1 series forum have been asking the same questions we are (https://www.1erforum.de/threads/mult...-m140i.260091/). They seem to be discussing it fairly actively and Google Translate in Chrome seems to do a decent enough job of getting the message across.

Last edited by asciimike; 05-12-2020 at 07:55 PM..
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      05-12-2020, 07:57 PM   #44
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Interested to see what happens.
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