[Vflorea]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Let me know when yours are available, I've been searching for a red set for months now. Silver sets are everywhere, but the red sets aren't.

I still don't know if I want to sell the original red ones. If I ever sell the car, I can always return it to stock or the future owner can decide. My current CS has less then 300 miles.

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by Vflorea

I still don't know if I want to sell the original red ones. If I ever sell the car, I can always return it to stock or the future owner can decide. My current CS has less then 300 miles.

That's a smart plan. I consider the standard 2NH to be a massive downgrade compared to the CCB, just for the insane weight difference alone, but if the future owner really wants to track the car then the standard rotors will serve better. The only thing is, whatever you have to do to the brake booster has to be undone as well.

[Vflorea]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

That's a smart plan. I consider the standard 2NH to be a massive downgrade compared to the CCB, just for the insane weight difference alone, but if the future owner really wants to track the car then the standard rotors will serve better. The only thing is, whatever you have to do to the brake booster has to be undone as well.

Absolutely.

[medphysdave]

One of the many reasons I didn't go CCB was because of brake squeal. My iron brakes squeak horribly. I keep hoping that one day bmw gets the coated rotors

[chris719]

Originally Posted by M3R1

I would have used my Red Calipers just to be different as they are the same. [/url]

Actually, just one minor correction. I am pretty sure that the CS red and Comp silver calipers are the same, but the gold CCB calipers are different in that they have titanium pistons instead of stainless steel.

[M3R1]

Originally Posted by chris719

Actually, just one minor correction. I am pretty sure that the CS red and Comp silver calipers are the same, but the gold CCB calipers are different in that they have titanium pistons instead of stainless steel.

Well then, I will just have to save my $12k...

[chris719]

Originally Posted by RideM

Im at 2800 miles, but I've had zero squeak…

Mine squeal a little when warm, but not always, it's random.

[ScullyD]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

That's a smart plan. I consider the standard 2NH to be a massive downgrade compared to the CCB, just for the insane weight difference alone, but if the future owner really wants to track the car then the standard rotors will serve better. The only thing is, whatever you have to do to the brake booster has to be undone as well.

This has been documented in other threads, but you don't upgrade the brake booster on the M2 CS when you add the CCBs (unlike what you do for the M4).

[VisualEcho]

Originally Posted by ScullyD

This has been documented in other threads, but you don't upgrade the brake booster on the M2 CS when you add the CCBs (unlike what you do for the M4).

It's just coding, right?

[medphysdave]

Correct. It's pads and rotors. Unsure about coding

[ryem3]

Had 1000 miles and no brake dust whatsoever! Wheels and calipers hardly had any road dust! Perfect pedal fell and no squealing so far. Super glad I got the CCBs.

[michaeldorian]

Originally Posted by VisualEcho

Let me know when yours are available, I've been searching for a red set for months now. Silver sets are everywhere, but the red sets aren't.

I have the OEM CCB Kit and just waiting for 1 part from StudioRSR before doing the swap.

OEM Red Iron Set will be for sale. Hit me up!

[mikeyymonster]

Hopefully someone documents the swap, I cannot stand the dust.

[604MIIC]

Depending on the roads you drive on and how lucky you are. The inevitable rock between caliper and wheel will happen.
I'll post some pics later

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by 604MIIC

Depending on the roads you drive on and how lucky you are. The inevitable rock between caliper and wheel will happen.
I'll post some pics later

As long as it's not going to damage the rotor it's par for the course on this wheel and caliper fitment. If you have pics where someone ended up with a damaged CCB disc I'd love to see it. You read of the dangers, but I'm wondering how many damaged CCB discs are actually out there. Is it legit, or more urban legend.

[604MIIC]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

As long as it's not going to damage the rotor it's par for the course on this wheel and caliper fitment. If you have pics where someone ended up with a damaged CCB disc I'd love to see it. You read of the dangers, but I'm wondering how many damaged CCB discs are actually out there. Is it legit, or more urban legend.

I'm not talking about damaged rotors but chipped gouged wheel barrel and caliper.
I have only read of 1 instance on rennlist with a Porsche with damaged rotor.

[Vflorea]

Originally Posted by ScullyD

This has been documented in other threads, but you don't upgrade the brake booster on the M2 CS when you add the CCBs (unlike what you do for the M4).

I just talked to my local dealership regarding the upgrade for my CS, and they mentioned that we definitely need to replace the brake servo. Totally different P/n they said.

[Poochie]

Anyone here has any real world feedback on the performance delta of CCB over steel rotors in the CS?

Aesthetics aside, I'm fully aware of the discernible benefits of reducing unsprung mass but I always wonder if it's worth the 8 - $10,000, from an amateur perspective.

This dude below broke it down and I'm sold but I rarely hear any chatter here about such, other than a few bitching over the sticker shock..

[sdhotwn]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Anyone here has any real world feedback on the performance delta of CCB over steel rotors in the CS?

Aesthetics aside, I'm fully aware of the discernible benefits of reducing unsprung mass but I always wonder if it's worth the 8 - $10,000, from an amateur perspective.

This dude below broke it down and I'm sold but I rarely hear any chatter here about such, other than a few bitching over the sticker shock..

Depends on so many things. The closest I can speak to is the driving at the BMW performance center on the M2C's with the 2NH brakes and then back to back with the G80 M4's with the carbon's on them. There wasn't a big difference in overall feel or braking capability at these sizes, and pad compounds, all the systems can way outbrake the tires. So then you are looking more at fade etc. For street driving at these sizes of rotors - you'd almost never see it. You'd have to be pretty reckless and on some wicked mountain switchbacks to put enough into them.

So from there... now you are down to the track scenarios. At the performance center they did say the 2NH kit on the BMW pads was not able to handle the performance duty. I talked with one of them for a while about the ceramics and he did explain that anytime they messed up the bedding of the pads it wiped out an entire set of pads AND wrecked out the rotors in a couple of track sessions - so they are meticulous about the bedding procedure. I tracked my CS with the stock pads and rotors and while they developed a little bit of fade and inconsistency, it was manageable for the track I was at - which is pretty hard on pads as it has a LOT of braking zones and very little cooldown areas. When I went on to bigger tracks, I went to more aggressive pads that could handle the heat, and I never once had the slightest hint of fade, and have great modulation and total brake capability. The brakes on the G80 M4 and F series M5's that I drove that were ceramic were great, but overall feel/bite/modulation was not particularly different - pad types change the feel more than what I felt car/to car and brake system to brake system.

So I don't know what you really want in an answer. Brakes are one of those things that especially with them being a wear component and an easy swap there are a lot of variables with pad materials etc that makes it not a straight answer. If you are talking stock to stock - yes the ceramics hold up better to fading, but overall braking feel/stopping power is going to be pad dependent/equal respectively. Change out the pad on the steels and you can overcome the fade of the pad compound easily and then there's no real issue.

The unsprung weight thing is even tougher - you have to be pretty darn sensitive to that, and tire selections will impact that (sidewall, weight, etc). You'd then have to have a back to back compare to really know how much impact - ideally a rough track with significant corners where the suspension would be struggling to keep up. Less corner weight should show up there. So how many of those instance you'd see, and how much of a performance gain this particular suspension picks up from the reduced suspension issues etc gets really tough.

All valid points, and ceramics are very cool, but the performance isn't necessarily there. I'd choose them for the same reason I like carbon trim and the upper models of cars - I like the way the look, and I like having the "best" bits on a car sometimes. This time around for my CS since I knew I'd have it a while and track it a decent amount, steel was the way to go for me. Your decision math may vary.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by sdhotwn

So I don't know what you really want in an answer. Brakes are one of those things that especially with them being a wear component and an easy swap there are a lot of variables with pad materials etc that makes it not a straight answer. .

Thank you for your feedback.

I guess what I'm asking is beside the already establish benefits of fade-resistance braking, reduced brake dust and the stout appearance of CCBs, does the reduction in unsprung weight make a noticeable difference in everyday driving, more or less..

I remember back in the day, the first time moved from alloyed wheels to forged aluminum, which reduced each corner by 6 lbs per side of unsprung mass, leaving the tire shop, I was truly blown away by how much better the throttle felt, the entire vehicle felt light on its feet, with a ton more wheel spin - but the good kind. It personally made me a true believer in whole unsprung weight debate.

I was just wonder if anyone actually gauged any tangible difference, if any, which was achieved between a CS with CCB vs steel rotors without.

I understand it's a loaded question but asked simply because in my experience, no one really mentions the performance improvement, as It's almost always frivolous bickering over brake dust, aesthetics or cost.

[michaeldorian]

Originally Posted by ScullyD

This has been documented in other threads, but you don't upgrade the brake booster on the M2 CS when you add the CCBs (unlike what you do for the M4).

Can you point me to the source where it’s documented that you don’t need to upgrade the brake booster in the M2 CS? I have everything to do the swap except the brake booster and not having to order that and replace would be ideal.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Thank you for your feedback.

I guess what I'm asking is beside the already establish benefits of fade-resistance braking, reduced brake dust and the stout appearance of CCBs, does the reduction in unsprung weight make a noticeable difference in everyday driving, more or less..

I remember back in the day, the first time moved from alloyed wheels to forged aluminum, which reduced each corner by 6 lbs per side less of unsprung mass, leaving the tire shop, I was truly blown away by how much better the throttle felt, the entire vehicle felt light on its feet, with a ton more wheel spin - but the good kind. It personally made me a true believer in whole unsprung weight debate.

I was just wonder if anyone actually gauged any tangible difference, if any, which was achieved between a CS with CCB vs steel rotors without.

I understand it's a loaded question but asked simply because in my experience, no one really mentions the performance improvement, as It's almost always frivolous bickering over brake dust, aesthetics or cost.

I drove the F82 ZCP both with CCB and with steel a few times and didn't notice a difference in the way the car drove outside of brake feel.