[riko///m2]

Originally Posted by wilson kop

Can you expound on the helper springs you added? From where? What impact do these have beyond tightening up the fit?

We're you getting noise like this prior?

Originally Posted by wilson kop

Can you expound on the helper springs you added? From where? What impact do these have beyond tightening up the fit?

We're you getting noise like this prior?

Yes, there were some noise during my test drive after the install but i fixed it after I tighten the top nut, and after applying loctite.

There's no impact at all. The helpers added 1/4" height fully compressed.

I installed the helper springs to preload and to avoid the springs from unseating from the struts collar when the tires go off the ground (when jacking or when approaching driveways at an angle).

Here are the links. Get (2) each.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...MaAgcfEALw_wcB

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...gaAjJTEALw_wcB

[Dozer324]

I’m starting to think it’s sway bar end link related. Seems to be most noticeable over bumpy slow uneven roads.

I checked the strut top bolt and the shock tower bolts. All seemed to be torqued properly.

[Dozer324]

Originally Posted by riko///m2

Yes, there were some noise during my test drive after the install but i fixed it after I tighten the top nut, and after applying loctite.

There's no impact at all. The helpers added 1/4" height fully compressed.

I installed the helper springs to preload and to avoid the springs from unseating from the struts collar when the tires go off the ground (when jacking or when approaching driveways at an angle).

Here are the links. Get (2) each.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...MaAgcfEALw_wcB

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...gaAjJTEALw_wcB

Is there anything special to tightening the top bolt? The one side when I was checking seems to turn and then turn back on itself. Would the entire strut be twisting?

[riko///m2]

Originally Posted by Dozer324

Is there anything special to tightening the top bolt? The one side when I was checking seems to turn and then turn back on itself. Would the entire strut be twisting?

The strut shaft should not turn.

Use a crescent wrench and a 7/16 " socket. Turn the crescent wrench to tighten.

[Dozer324]

Originally Posted by riko///m2

the strut shaft should not turn.

Use a crescent wrench and a 7/16 " socket. Turn the crescent wrench to tighten.

👍🏻

[Dozer324]

Originally Posted by riko///m2

The strut shaft should not turn.

Use a crescent wrench and a 7/16 " socket. Turn the crescent wrench to tighten.

Those were tight, I’ll have to check the sway bar bolts next.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by riko///m2

It sounds like there is some play between the front struts and camber plates. Tighten the top bolts of the Koni struts. Real tight(proper torque). Also, apply few drops of red locktite.

I added helper springs in my set up for tighter fit.

The helper simply adds tension to the main spring when the suspension is at full droop.

Still need to check for proper torque on all your strut and end link hardware.

[Dozer324]

Found the source of the noise, a stripped lock nut on the sway bar link. Replaced with a nut and blue lock tire for now. Is a self locking nut required?

[Dozer324]

https://flic.kr/p/2njyDWR

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by riko///m2

It sounds like there is some play between the front struts and camber plates. Tighten the top bolts of the Koni struts. Real tight(proper torque). Also, apply few drops of red locktite.

I added helper springs in my set up for tighter fit.

If this is indeed the problem Rico has a good tip.

Adding Locktite is mandatory on the top nuts, they will back off over the miles.

I had this happen on my 1st kit back in 1999. All of my TCK setups have, or hadlocktite on the nuts.

[hlm2c]

Originally Posted by Dozer324

Do you have adjustable sway bar end links? Once they were installed the noises started. Nothing seems to be loose.

I don't have adjustable sway bar end links. Mine are OEM

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Dozer324

Do you have adjustable sway bar end links? Once they were installed the noises started. Nothing seems to be loose.

Not all adjustable anti roll bar links are noisy. The rod end versions tend to get noisy over time. OE style ends are just like OE, never noisy unless defective.

[Dozer324]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Not all adjustable anti roll bar links are noisy. The rod end versions tend to get noisy over time. OE style ends are just like OE, never noisy unless defective.

Luckily mine are not noisy either, just a mechanic rushing through a simple job and stripping a nut on the way.

[///393]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I had to punt install while I wait for the correct camber plates for my OG

[///393]

Just brought my 2017 home with TCK kit installed and Bimmerworld front monoballs.

I’m also experiencing some noise but not the same as the OP. Mine are at crawling speeds in my driveway as it makes a turn and entering and exiting the driveway which involves turning left.

[PHX102]

Originally Posted by ///MPhatic

From my research that's more of a specific type of suspension thing, as well as being caused by camber plates. I ended up going with the MPS and have no additional noise, except some clicking upon hard cornering (even though the pinch bolts were replaced and torqued properly).

Are you running stock camber?

[///MPhatic]

Originally Posted by PHX102

Are you running stock camber?

My car has some additional camber by virtue of lowering.

LF -1.8° • RF -1.6°
LR -2.0° • RR - 1.8°

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by riko///m2

It sounds like there is some play between the front struts and camber plates. Tighten the top bolts of the Koni struts. Real tight(proper torque). Also, apply few drops of red locktite.

I added helper springs in my set up for tighter fit.

This is most likely the issue your having.

Locktite and proper torque of the top nuts will eliminate the strut moving up and down. The noise your describing is almost 100% caused by the C/O' moving up and down.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

This is most likely the issue your having.

Locktite and proper torque of the top nuts will eliminate the strut moving up and down. The noise your describing is almost 100% caused by the C/O' moving up and down.

Red should be avoided. Green or blue are the best for this type of application.

It is okay to use an impact as long as you know when to stop.

There should be no movement of the shaft once it is fully seated in the camber plates otherwise it will be noisy for sure.

[SCMTX]

Just installed the TCK DA kit on my M2C. I’ve already pulled the rear shocks out once to retighten the shock top bolt, I had used blue locktite as well. Guess I need to go find a nylock nut, the lock washers aren’t enough.
The front WAS quiet, but something up front has worked it’s way lose.
I’m pretty frustrated, BUT the ride is soooo much better than stock! It’s not even close, very supple. However, I’m going to have to get the 400/700 springs, I think the 300/600 isn’t firm enough. I’m not slammed, but I have got tire rub with larger dips in the road. I’m running in between street and track settings for rebound and compression.

[Rumbloki]

Where can I find the proper torque values?

[Toroinu]

Originally Posted by SCMTX

Just installed the TCK DA kit on my M2C. I’ve already pulled the rear shocks out once to retighten the shock top bolt, I had used blue locktite as well. Guess I need to go find a nylock nut, the lock washers aren’t enough.
The front WAS quiet, but something up front has worked it’s way lose.
I’m pretty frustrated, BUT the ride is soooo much better than stock! It’s not even close, very supple. However, I’m going to have to get the 400/700 springs, I think the 300/600 isn’t firm enough. I’m not slammed, but I have got tire rub with larger dips in the road. I’m running in between street and track settings for rebound and compression.

Were you able to get them tight and secured? Also did the camber plates make any noise? I’ve heard some camber plates clunk.

I’m planning to go for the SA 300/600 setup for comfort over stock with some track time once in a blue moon. What wheel/tires specs are you running for you to be rubbing?