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      02-28-2020, 08:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM33 View Post
Take the one on the lot. An ordered car could get damaged in transit or have some other issue. Test drive the one on the lot and if it feels good then buy it. The M2 Competition doesn't have enough options to warrant a unique order when a similar car is on the lot.
Exactly. Go test drive it, and if there is nothing wrong then get it.
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      02-28-2020, 09:57 AM   #24
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I only ordered my car because I wanted Performance Center Delivery. If I didn't care about that, I would have found one to the spec I want on a lot. I'm sure it would have been cheaper that way. Do what's going to make you feel the best at the end of the day. That's all that matters.
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      02-28-2020, 09:59 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dab1981 View Post
I only ordered my car because I wanted Performance Center Delivery. If I didn't care about that, I would have found one to the spec I want on a lot. I'm sure it would have been cheaper that way. Do what's going to make you feel the best at the end of the day. That's all that matters.
Amen. Cars cost too damn much to get something you're not totally happy with.
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      02-28-2020, 10:21 AM   #26
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My car came with 24 miles on it. It was also delivered from Illinois. I assume 6-10 miles from manufacture to dealership, 1-2 miles for employees driving the car around the lot, and about 5-10 miles for test drives, and then between 2-4 miles because of the delivery. Seemed within spec to me so i bought it.
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      02-28-2020, 10:24 AM   #27
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Pay 2k to "think" no one red lined your car...then you are going to drive it and do the exact same thing? A fool and his money...

I would take it even if they told me they red lined the car 20 times... its a car, it's meant to be driven.
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      02-28-2020, 10:31 AM   #28
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Take the car, save the cash.

That being said, I passed on the exact car I'm having built in favor of an allocation order-- but it was for practical, not financial reasons.

Getting that car in a dealer trade was the same cost as a allocation order. What made me wait (other than wanting a *new*, new car since I haven't had one in 15 years) was that I didn't quite have room to store it yet since I hadn't moved the two motorcycles, a motorcycle trailer, three road bikes and two mountain bikes out of the garage stall where it's going to live.

And? I wouldn't have driven it in February anyway, due to the cold and snow. So, I took the allocation and it will be here late March/early April.

BUT-- if I lived where I could have driven it immediately, or if it was a few months later, I would have taken the dealer trade in a heartbeat-- ESPECIALLY if I could save $2k.

R.

Last edited by flybigjet; 02-28-2020 at 11:43 AM..
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      02-28-2020, 10:35 AM   #29
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Honestly, I'd be more worried about the numerous cold starts driving on and off rail, ships, transporters than 10-15 miles test driven. Think about the dozen or so times the car is started, moved, shut off, repeat... during its first month after build. Then put it on a ship for a month with all that moisture that didn't burn off sitting in the crankcase.

I've ordered almost every car I've purchased, but if I found the exact car w/only 20 miles for cheaper, I'm buying it

YMMV
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      02-28-2020, 11:06 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcar55 View Post
It has 20 ish miles and that is my main concern. Do you think it's possible for someone to violate the break in limits and cause issues during a test drive? If not, you're all correct that there's no reason for me to go with the build.
lmao just wait till you drive the car and beat on it
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      02-28-2020, 11:27 AM   #31
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Think of the millions of cars on the road, when you buy a used car are you asking how many miles it had on collection? Of course not. Every single car in North America was probably cold start thrashed off the boat. Modern engines are extremely robust and tested to the extreme. There is zero reason to pay more money for a car ordered compared to off the dealer lot assuming the spec's are the same.
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      02-28-2020, 11:51 AM   #32
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I don't know you so I can't say what sort of person you are, but if you will always have the thought in the back of your mind that you should have purchased a car with no miles on it, then by all means, spend the $2K or hell, tell the dealer that you are willing to spend $1K and not $2K. It's money well spent, that extra thousand dollars will save you sleepless nights.
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      02-28-2020, 12:03 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigKutta View Post
Wait, same car on the lot as you would build? Why is this a question? What's wrong with the one on the lot?

I buy alot of high end cars over the years and there are advantages to ordering IF there isn't the exact model/color/specs on the lot.

I would say you are taking a higher gamble with ordering a car as it can come in damaged. It happens all the time on this forum. Stupid stuff like leather defects, wheel damages, paint scratches, etc... We have even seen equipment deleted by the factory because of a temporary parts shortages. Now your $95k vehicle is missing a significant cosmetic styling part. (G05 M50i)

When I order a car I am more stressed as not only am I not getting the car right away, but I am wasting weeks/months of my time for a possibly not pristine car and then I have to either suck it up and take it or reorder/dealer trade.

The one on the lot can be looked over with a microscope BEFORE you buy. There is no advantage about ordering a car.

Last edited by MystroX5; 02-28-2020 at 12:12 PM..
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      02-28-2020, 12:08 PM   #34
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Save $2k on the car with 20 miles. To be concerned with 20 miles on a new engine is like worrying about the moon falling out of the sky and hitting you on the head.

As someone else stated, spend the money on PPF. Your new car will be covered in rock chips in no time without. Then you will think back to this email think 'dear lord whyyy didn't I listen to that random stranger on the M2 forum??'

OR if rock chips don't bother then spend the money in any fashion you wish. It is your money after all. We are just telling you how to spend it

Last edited by robertm; 03-13-2020 at 07:49 AM..
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      02-28-2020, 12:12 PM   #35
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I got my brand new car with 50 miles on it and I was pissed.... fast forward a month later , I couldn’t love this car anymore and I am over it .

Save the 2 grand it will look and feel the exact same as an order car and you will be happy and 2 grand richer .
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      02-28-2020, 12:34 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBM2C View Post
I got my brand new car with 50 miles on it and I was pissed.... fast forward a month later , I couldn’t love this car anymore and I am over it .

Save the 2 grand it will look and feel the exact same as an order car and you will be happy and 2 grand richer .
Happy to hear Rob! I frickin' love my M2. I gonna take her for a nice wash in an hour.

However, OP should take note that ROBM2C had more issues than just the mileage, and he's happy. You can probably search his thread and after reading just go buy the damn car!!
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      02-28-2020, 12:50 PM   #37
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Buy the car on the lot, you are 20 miles closer to the 1200 mile break in!
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      02-28-2020, 12:54 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcar55 View Post
Looks like we're all in agreement. I'll test drive the lot car and take it unless i notice anything serious.



Is PPF worth it if I'm not going to keep it 10-15 years?
Yep, at least the front, paint is very fragile and thin IMHO.
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      02-28-2020, 01:09 PM   #39
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It depends on the situation. If a car has been sitting on the lot for 6 months and you can get one hot off the press for just a bit more then I'd do that. I always buy my new cars 5 months early. An example would be to buy a 2021 model in August of 2020. It's a 5 month new car bonus.
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      02-28-2020, 02:34 PM   #40
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Never mind...
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      02-28-2020, 04:40 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
Save $2k on the car with 20 miles. To be concerned with 20 miles on a new engine is like working about the moon falling out of the sky and hitting you on the head.

As someone else stated, spend the money on PPF. Your new car will be covered in rock chips in no time without. Then you will think back to this email think 'dear lord whyyy didn't I listen to that random stranger on the M2 forum??'

OR if rock chips don't bother then spend the money in any fashion you wish. It is your money after all. We are just telling you how to spend it
Haha, you are right.

When I asked is PPF "worth", I wasn't referring to cost. It's a shame "worth" can mean so many things. I've read that PPF can yellow over time and can peel off. Additionally, will it affect the shine of the vehicle? For me, I would rather deal with a few rock chips than a yellowish polymer on my car. If this isn't the case, then yes I'm willing to shell out for PPF.
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      02-28-2020, 04:55 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcar55 View Post
Haha, you are right.

When I asked is PPF "worth", I wasn't referring to cost. It's a shame "worth" can mean so many things. I've read that PPF can yellow over time and can peel off. Additionally, will it affect the shine of the vehicle? For me, I would rather deal with a few rock chips than a yellowish polymer on my car. If this isn't the case, then yes I'm willing to shell out for PPF.
The old PPF (think: 3M 20 years ago) tended to yellow and had a sort of orange-peel texture.

The stuff today is light years better.

We have it on my wife's 2018 RDX and her 2019 Miata. You can't even see it from a foot away.

I'll have the entire front end, rocker panels and wheel well bulges done as soon as my M2C gets here.

Note: If you're going to ceramic coat the car-- prep the paint, then do PPF, THEN do ceramic coating (including right over the PPF)-- otherwise it won't stick right.

R.
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      02-28-2020, 05:02 PM   #43
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Everything he said above!

Expel Ultimate Plus is what a lot of people use now. Here is their warranty:

Paint Protection Film to be free of manufacturer defects for ten (10) years from the date of purchase. Covered defects include: yellowing, staining, cracking, blistering and delaminating.
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      02-28-2020, 07:42 PM   #44
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I picked up my 2020 for $55,900. I negotiated it down from 59. It was at a consignment dealer with 1500 miles on it. Previous owner ended up getting a GT3 instead. The tires had definitely been through some heat cycles. It was clearly driven by an enthusiast. Over all the car was beautiful, no chips in the paint, a new car.

These are high performance cars and are built well. The sophisticated electronics protect the motor, and other critical systems. When you build a car to be capable on the racetrack at extremes, if properly taken care of, it will stand up to some normal abuse.

With 20 miles on it, it's likely perfect. Test drive it, listen to the engine, make sure it has no interior rattles. Even if they wound it out a couple times it should be fine. Save the money.
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