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M2 Technical Topics > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Monster DIY: KW V3, torque specs, re-indexing, spacers, alignment, coilovers install

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      04-07-2019, 02:02 PM   #45
M Fifty
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Okay, that could be a workable approach to torquing the Torx on the aluminium brace...

Last edited by M Fifty; 04-07-2019 at 02:03 PM.. Reason: Spelling of "Torx"
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      04-18-2019, 10:40 PM   #46
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Update. I installed my Eibach springs and it went fairly smoothly. I decided to have the dealer re-index all the bushings for me but we ran into a snag with the rear upper control arm bolt/nut. You can't properly re-torque this nut without dropping the subframe (no clearance for a torque wrench and I don't think the crows foot fit in there either...

How did you guys manage this?
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      06-07-2019, 11:25 PM   #47
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Does anyone have a SKU for the strut pinch bolt? I cannot seem to find it.
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      06-08-2019, 03:12 AM   #48
M Fifty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarr343 View Post
Does anyone have a SKU for the strut pinch bolt? I cannot seem to find it.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=31_1121
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      06-13-2019, 10:19 PM   #49
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I started my install this evening and ran into a issue. When removing the rear camber bolt, I made a mistake and may have ruined the camber control arm. The material towards the end of the arm is now bent/torn. I assume this needs to be replaced...?
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      06-14-2019, 01:47 AM   #50
M Fifty
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It's not structural - it's just there to help adjust the position of the camber bolt.
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      06-14-2019, 06:44 AM   #51
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I bet you swore when you did that. Never mind, M Fifty is right - the lip is not structural and the suspension isn't going to fall apart or be unsafe in any way. It's the torque applied to the eccentric both that holds it in position. The lip just gives the cam on the head of the bolt something to press against when making adjustments. Even if the lip shears off, you will still be able to adjust the bolt and get it aligned.

In fact, depending on how the bolt ends up being orientated, it may not even come in contact with that lip at all.
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      06-14-2019, 07:55 AM   #52
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Thanks for the help, I reinstalled the arm.

Finished everything up tonight, and the front height setting is perfect. The rear did not drop at all... I hope I don't have to pull the camber and shock bolts to make an adjustment? That would be a major pain.
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      06-15-2019, 09:43 AM   #53
M Fifty
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Can you take some pictures of the rear spring perches?

KW recommend removing them to make adjustments, but with the wheel off you may be able to wind them back.
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      11-17-2019, 09:30 PM   #54
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosely View Post
Regarding the lube thing, I meant just for adjusting the perches. A little degreaser afterwards to clean things up, agreed you don't want to attract dirt but it also doesn't matter once you're happy with height. Next time I take them off will be if they fail or when I sell the car/upgrade coils and KW even include the instructions on cleaning above the perch, then slide up and clean below, before making large adjustments. Thinking about it actually, I'd rather a little dirt stick to a non-moving part than rust develop.

Not sure why KW recommend removing to adjust, its quite easy once you get it moving to do it on the car and the only thing turning is the adjustment collar.

Edit: Here is the final stance, just a quick cell shot

Cheers for the comprehensive write up. made my V3 install a breeze, tinkering with my setup is a pain in the bum

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      02-28-2020, 01:59 PM   #55
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Great write up. Will be using this as reference soon. Iím assuming you didnít replace the rear camber bolt (which was marked with sharpie)? Or did I miss that it was a one time use? Thanks and cheers
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      02-28-2020, 11:06 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kankles View Post
Great write up. Will be using this as reference soon. Iím assuming you didnít replace the rear camber bolt (which was marked with sharpie)? Or did I miss that it was a one time use? Thanks and cheers
Nope, that one was re-usable I believe.
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      03-03-2020, 12:31 PM   #57
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For the top hat nut, is that 18mm or 22mm? And is that torqued to 50nm? I have a clunking noise with my V3s, pretty sure it's that nut. Going to order the needed tools, just want to make sure I'm ordering the right ones.
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      03-03-2020, 02:37 PM   #58
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Open the bonnet, remove the rubber cap, put a jack under the front jacking point and lift while looking at the nut. Yes?
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      03-04-2020, 02:17 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Open the bonnet, remove the rubber cap, put a jack under the front jacking point and lift while looking at the nut. Yes?
Yup, that one. I see it's a bit complicated, gotta hold the 10mm in place while twisting the 18mm, is this the one that I have to put under load to tighten properly?
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      03-05-2020, 01:55 PM   #60
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Generally speaking, once you've got the shaft seated properly using the nut (when you might have to use an Allen Ket to hold the shaft still), the final torque setting just needs a sock spanner on the nut and a torque wrench.
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