[DriverDaily]

I am at the top of the recommended adjustment of my Bilstein B16 coilovers and the car still sits too low for my taste.

Are any camber plates thicker than the factory strut mount?

[M Fifty]

Have you got any pictures?

[GeraldM2]

Try the Ground control Camper Plates. They're a bit expensive but the build quality and camber adjustablity are very nice

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by GeraldM2

Try the Ground control Camper Plates. They're a bit expensive but the build quality and camber adjustablity are very nice

Mentally pictures Type 2 bus with added camber...

[MR RIZK]

DriverDaily I assume you are after a camber plate with a thicker stack height. The nitrons may help in this as they are 47mm from the bottom face of the plate to the top of the bearing.

These units also have camber and castor adjustment.

https://www.nitron.co.uk/buy-online/...ront-top-plate

The GC's and Vorshlag tend to have OEM stack height.

[DriverDaily]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

DriverDaily I assume you are after a camber plate with a thicker stack height. The nitrons may help in this as they are 47mm from the bottom face of the plate to the top of the bearing.

These units also have camber and castor adjustment.

https://www.nitron.co.uk/buy-online/...ront-top-plate

The GC's and Vorshlag tend to have OEM stack height.

Exactly what I am looking for. Much appreciated!

[MR RIZK]

No probs. However how much extra height are U looking to get in the front end?

Just seems you are going down a complex path just for a bit more height while not compromising the preload on the front end. I'm assuming there is enough adjustment however it will put U out of the "recommended" range?

Some more detail may help others to chime in.

[DriverDaily]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

No probs. However how much extra height are U looking to get in the front end?

Just seems you are going down a complex path just for a bit more height while not compromising the preload on the front end. I'm assuming there is enough adjustment however it will put U out of the "recommended" range?

Some more detail may help others to chime in.

Here the front is at the top of recommended adjustability, it can go 12.5mm lower or 2.5mm higher.
The rear is at the bottom of adjustability, it can go 10mm higher.

I would like to raise the car by 10mm. You are spot on. It's possible to turn the spring perch until the car sits where I want it, but this wouldn't leave enough rebound travel in the damper.


stock


Bilstein B16

At first I was looking for spacer between the body and suspension like these. BMW used to use these for countries with bad roads to lift the body without having to reengineer a new set of springs and dampers. But, it appears they stopped using spacers for the F8x vehicles. Luckily, a thicker camber plate will do the same thing as a spacer.

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

The nitrons may help in this as they are 47mm from the bottom face of the plate to the top of the bearing.

Do you have any idea how much taller that is than the stock coilover top-hats?

[MR RIZK]

DriverDaily i have attached the schematic of the nitron camber plate. As you can see compared to the Vorshlag and GC's this does not have a integrated spring seat. This will mean you will probably need to have a seat machined to accept the oem size spring. You can reach out to nitron to see if they have any plans of supporting the oem setup instead of coilover style coils.

I dont have access to measure the oem hat but hope the diagram helps you to compare to your setup.

The reason i suggested the nitrons is because they dont have the integrated seat allowing you to sort out the height you are after and i suspect because they have both castor and camber adjustment they needed to drop the sliding plate somewhat to accommodate this.

Picture Reference Thread LINK

The other potential option is use the millway camber plate LINK and fabricate a stepped sleeve and weld it to the neck that is used to locate the spring and rubber isolation pad. This will mean you can raise the back side of the isolation pad to gain the height but you will need to also lengthen the sleeve that buts from the shaft to underside of the hat otherwise you are just compressing the spring more. To me that looks relatively straight forward to do and you can opt for their street version if you don't want the rose joint at the top for NVH.

There is a 3rd option. Convert the millway to use 60mm ID coils and get the correct spring. The below video shows how this will add about 10mm that you are after. However this will mean you would change out the front and rear springs to get rid of the progressive spring and ensure the valving can suit the new rates.

You will need to make sure you have enough thread length on the damper top nut to accommodate the drop of the damper. In one of Vorshlag's videos i think they talk about custom nuts to suit the recess.

I am no suspension expert so take all of the suggestions on face value. Hope this all makes sense and provides some creative ideas to get to the ride height of an X3

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

There is a 3rd option. Convert the millway to use 60mm ID coils and get the correct spring. The below video shows how this will add about 10mm that you are after. However this will mean you would change out the front and rear springs to get rid of the progressive spring and ensure the valving can suit the new rates.

I just helped someone convert a B14 kit to 60mm front springs. Below is a video of what was required and here's the thread on it in the F30 section.

I wouldn't worry about going to a linear spring from Bilsteins' progressive spring since the low-rate isn't really in play at static ride height.

One thing you'll want to watch out for when going higher than Bilstein normally allows is that the damper won't be hitting its droop limiter (full extension) during normal driving.