[chris719]

Originally Posted by H2O_Doc

I just had my passenger side rear taillight throw a warning. It does the blinky-blinky muy rápido. My service adviser seemed not-at-all surprised.

Yeah, I am pretty sure this is a design "flaw" and every single car will do it eventually. Whether or not the coding is a proper solution or a band-aid is TBD in my opinion, but something definitely changes over time. When this happens to me, I will tear mine apart for science and compare every component on the PCB to a new one to find the root cause. Whatever it is, it's a shit design and they should be ashamed for not correcting this with either a revision to the light or software change.

[Rk-d]

Originally Posted by chris719

Yeah, I am pretty sure this is a design "flaw" and every single car will do it eventually. Whether or not the coding is a proper solution or a band-aid is TBD in my opinion, but something definitely changes over time. When this happens to me, I will tear mine apart for science and compare every component on the PCB to a new one to find the root cause. Whatever it is, it's a shit design and they should be ashamed for not correcting this with either a revision to the light or software change.

Replacing the light did nothing for me. Replacing the REM module fixed it. For now.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Rk-d

Replacing the light did nothing for me. Replacing the REM module fixed it. For now.

Interesting

[rwemersonrw]

Originally Posted by Rk-d

I've posted on the maintenance forum, but thought I post here to see if there was more feedback.

R rear tail light failure warning came up. Happens intermittently and resets when the car is turned off. I took it to BMW and they replaced the tail light but that did not resolve the problem.

Has anyone in here had this problem and found a definitive solution? BMW is wanting to hold on to the car now and it could be weeks that they'll have it trying to trace the problem.

Had to have left and rear light assemblies replaced. Free of charge!

[Zeese]

2017 BMW M2 OG - Pre-LED Taillights. My story ;-)

Ground shorts out in the right rear taillight. Five years / 50k miles? I think this was the warranty for the taillights. Oh well. 8/2016 build .. in service on Oct 15, 2016.

Did a bit of reading. Ordered the following to fix the right side taillight and get ahead of the problem on the left side.

Part Number	Part Name	Price	Quantity	Total
61-12-2-448-168	Repair Cable Tail Lights 611013	$26.51	2	$53.02

Part Number	Part Name	Price	Quantity	Total
63-21-7-370-291	Socket Panel	$59.01	1	$59.01
63-21-7-370-292	Socket Panel	$59.01	1	$59.01

Easy fix. A little patience, wire strippers and crimpers are handy to have (one can fake it).

Stepping back to admire my work, I noticed both taillights were cracked Subtle, but once seen, impossible to ignore. The cracks radiate from the center of the plastic lenses. Wish I had noticed this sooner... too many plates spinning ...

LED Retrofit!

The USA M2C taillights (red turn signals/indicators) were an option. Opted for EUR w/ amber turn signals. Black Line version.

There are some indications that dealers will still fix the taillights as a courtesy, at their discretion. Oh well.

Now, of course, I have to read this thread more closely to understand what may happen next!

[blitzyo]

Originally Posted by pablom2c

It happened again this morning and I recorded it, coding is done as indicated previously.

[IMG][/IMG]

Same issue, same light. I had the LED lights coded from day 1. I coded the lights the same time I coded off the fake sound.

[Zeese]

This evening, I installed the EUR Black Line taillights. Rather easy. At the same time, I replaced the reverse light bulbs with LEDs.

Coding! Used BimmerCode. It takes some patience looking through all the options in Expert Mode. Thinking I got it right.

Voltage? In in this thread M2 LCI tail lights retrofitted on pre-LCI M2, there are some excellent notes. And, a spreadsheet indicating voltages for Pre-LCI and LCI cars.

Originally Posted by CommitConfirm

DIY Guides:
%snip%
UPDATE A: I was able to get my hands on a UK RHD LCI to read the coding BMW have use. The link below is to a spreadsheet detailing the differences from the pre LCI vs LCI: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gof7lh1sg8...-0.2.xlsx?dl=0 THESE VALUES HAVE BEEN APPLIED TO MY PRE-LCI AND CONFIRMED AS WORKING
%snip%

100% = 64 for all of the voltage values, except the reverse lights.
100% of what?

Originally Posted by Nezil

I use E-Sys, and for my 2018 LCI OG M2, the info you want is here:

This is a screen shot which included voltage information (see the cropped screen shot attached).
100% of 14V.

For the reverse lights (Rückfahr-Scheinwerfer), the OEM LED taillight ships with a non-LED bulb. The spreadsheet lists that requirement as 13.5V = 87. I am not clear on whether or not these values are for the original bulbs or not.

The same spreadsheet has some additional values that are not found in most forum posts and DIY videos that may be interesting to LCI owners. For example,

MAPPING_BREMSL_L_FIXED_PWM	fixed = 01
MAPPING_BREMSL_R_FIXED_PWM	fixed = 01

Thanks for reading.

[zellatc]

Hi all,

After fixing the rear left lights last year (and ZERO issues since then), last month I started getting the problems in the right one.

Again, I dismounted, checked there were no burns or strange marks, so I just cleaned the pin and connectors:



Also, to assure better contact, I bended the pins slightly . Here you can see 3 of them already bended:


4000 kms later, not a single failure.

So here are my recommendations, before you take the car to the dealer to replace the lights (that WON´T olve the issue) and before you start coding the car (that is just a workaround):

MAKE SURE THE PINS ARE CLEAN AND MAKE SURE THEY MAKE GOOD CONTACT BY BENDING THEM!

[zellatc]

Originally Posted by pablom2c

It happened again this morning and I recorded it, coding is done as indicated previously.

[IMG][/IMG]

Originally Posted by blitzyo

Same issue, same light. I had the LED lights coded from day 1. I coded the lights the same time I coded off the fake sound.

Check previous post

[blitzyo]

Originally Posted by zellatc

Hi all,

After fixing the rear left lights last year (and ZERO issues since then), last month I started getting the problems in the right one.

Again, I dismounted, checked there were no burns or strange marks, so I just cleaned the pin and connectors:



Also, to assure better contact, I bended the pins slightly . Here you can see 3 of them already bended:


4000 kms later, not a single failure.

So here are my recommendations, before you take the car to the dealer to replace the lights (that WON´T olve the issue) and before you start coding the car (that is just a workaround):

MAKE SURE THE PINS ARE CLEAN AND MAKE SURE THEY MAKE GOOD CONTACT BY BENDING THEM!

I've cleaned mine with electric contact cleaner. It worked for a day and started doing the same thing again. Haven't tried bending the pins.

[zellatc]

Originally Posted by blitzyo

I've cleaned mine with electric contact cleaner. It worked for a day and started doing the same thing again. Haven't tried bending the pins.

Bend them. You can also try to squeeze the socket a little bit (pushing from one side) but don't do much pressure, they're quite soft.

Tell us if it works

(Mine still working without problem!)

[alkatraz]

Had it happen, one tap to rear light fixed it for now. Will take to dealer about that REM module replacement. Thank you,

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by zellatc

Bend them. You can also try to squeeze the socket a little bit (pushing from one side) but don't do much pressure, they're quite soft.

Tell us if it works

(Mine still working without problem!)

Yeah Id tried squeezing the female sockets a little, but it came back.

I think bending pins a a better idea, i'll try that.

[M Fifty]

7 pages of posts about an issue that's considered 'normal BMW driver behaviour'* in many markets...

*failure to indicate

[Fred Conoway]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

7 pages of posts about an issue that's considered 'normal BMW driver behaviour'* in many markets...

*failure to indicate

I use my turn signal religiously so that I don't fall into this camp

[bmxcamel]

Anyone who has bent the pins had this issue recur yet?

[Zeese]

Originally Posted by bmxcamel

Anyone who has bent the pins had this issue recur yet?

Related...

Anyone cleaning the connections and using dielectric grease? Seems moisture and corrosion may be a problem.

Best stuff to use on electrical connections?

DeoxIT® D-Series?

Thanks!

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by Zeese

Related...

Anyone cleaning the connections and using dielectric grease? Seems moisture and corrosion may be a problem.

Best stuff to use on electrical connections?

DeoxIT® D-Series?

Thanks!

Yes I cleaned / dried and used silicon electrical grease which fixed it for about a year...

[Zeese]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Yes I cleaned / dried and used silicon electrical grease which fixed it for about a year...

Good to know! Disappointing to hear the problem came back. Crazy.

Thanks!

[davidk]

I tried cleaning the pins and using some dielectric grease, and thought it was fixed, but the issue returned again after about a month. Is the only fix to replace the light, and does that actually fix it?

[chris719]

Originally Posted by davidk

I tried cleaning the pins and using some dielectric grease, and thought it was fixed, but the issue returned again after about a month. Is the only fix to replace the light, and does that actually fix it?

It does, until the replacement light does the same thing.

Even though I disagree with him on the issue, I would code your car as Poochie suggests if you are out of warranty because it appears to buy you more annoyance-free time.

It's pretty obvious there is a flaw in the lights that causes the check to fail intermittently with increasing frequency as the light ages. This never happens to brand new cars and it goes away for a while once the light is replaced. Points pretty strongly to something in the lights aging out of spec over time.

The other argument being presented is that the lights are fine and the check is just improper for these lights. I might buy that if I haven't heard of several fail eventually after coding this to suppress the error.

Once my lights fail I will most likely tear apart a "bad" light and a new light to compare behavior at all points of the circuit inside. If it's as simple as replacing a FET or something it should be able to be substituted with a more robust part.

[Jinjer]

Heya!
Same issue on my M2's right side. Since dirty and water is going in, I don't think that bending the pins is the answer but finding a solution so nothing gets in anymore. In search for a solution... If someone has any idea, please let me know. Thanks.
Although I cleaned it 2 weeks ago, this is how it look now :/