[DadVibes]

Originally Posted by RocketBoots

It really is quite dramatic, isn't it This is probably the single most noticeable upgrade I've done to the car (in terms of one single thing).

I have to agree. After all the money spent in suspension mods, wheels, tires etc. this shifter upgrade is the most noticeable, every single time you drive. It's given me an entirely new appreciation/love for the car, to be honest.

[MooMooM2]

the question is how much better is the CAE for almost twice the price? and having to cut the console

[m5_mbb7]

Originally Posted by MooMooM2

the question is how much better is the CAE for almost twice the price? and having to cut the console

I’ve tried the CAE. Personally prefer my AS kit. Feels way more oem+. But I do see the appeal in a CAE would hate to drive it anywhere but the track or touge though

[David.m]

Originally Posted by MooMooM2

the question is how much better is the CAE for almost twice the price? and having to cut the console

As the AS shifters are custom made there is always the option to increase shifter height, maybe not as high as a CAE but I'm sure Ron would know what height/ratio can be safely done (not cause undue wear on linkage moving parts). Install is obviously much easier and I expect you'll have a much wider option for shift knobs.

I've done around 80K km with my AS shifter, later did CDV delete (great improvement) & more recently the Turner trans mounts (lesser improvement but worthwhile). 30K km ago because of the unavailability of oem MTF-LT-5 I used Redline DCTF & imo it's better than the oem. Occasionally it wouldn't go into 1st when stopped at lights etc (one fix was to select 2nd then 1st) but since using the DCTF the issue has gone.

[Zuzu]

Originally Posted by DadVibes

My neighbor and I received our Autosolutions shifters from Ronald on Thursday. We originally planned on spending the weekend installing them on both cars. However, after experiencing the installation time/headache on his E46, caused by the tight clearances under the car, I decided to forego my installation.

If I had access to a full blown lift, I'd take it on. But we only have Quickjacks, making the install much more difficult than it otherwise could be.

So now I'm thinking of reaching out to a couple of local shops this week to get price estimates for a professional install. Autosolutions instructions state that a shop should be estimating 2-3 hours, which sounds insane when I think about how much longer it took us to do it on his car.

Anyway, I'm just curious how many hours other shops may have quoted people, before I start making some calls.

Two hours and that included dropping the entire exhaust for ease of installation..

[Doubledown21]

Originally Posted by David.m

As the AS shifters are custom made there is always the option to increase shifter height, maybe not as high as a CAE but I'm sure Ron would know what height/ratio can be safely done (not cause undue wear on linkage moving parts). Install is obviously much easier and I expect you'll have a much wider option for shift knobs.

I've done around 80K km with my AS shifter, later did CDV delete (great improvement) & more recently the Turner trans mounts (lesser improvement but worthwhile). 30K km ago because of the unavailability of oem MTF-LT-5 I used Redline DCTF & imo it's better than the oem. Occasionally it wouldn't go into 1st when stopped at lights etc (one fix was to select 2nd then 1st) but since using the DCTF the issue has gone.

Is redline DCTF automatic trans fluid? The description I read for it showed it for dual clutch. Also I am experiencing the same difficulty on occasion of getting the transmission to go into 1st. Going 2nd into 1st solves it but I'd rather it just go into 1st without any gimmicks. Let me know as I am interested in switching fluids to see it shift better into 1st.

[David.m]

Originally Posted by Doubledown21

Is redline DCTF automatic trans fluid? The description I read for it showed it for dual clutch. Also I am experiencing the same difficulty on occasion of getting the transmission to go into 1st. Going 2nd into 1st solves it but I'd rather it just go into 1st without any gimmicks. Let me know as I am interested in switching fluids to see it shift better into 1st.

Yes it's a DCT fluid but Redline spec it as compatible with the oem MTF-LT-5 (both on their website and container label) but I believe because of it's base needs to be changed more regularly than the oem. It was recommended by another forum member in the Maintenance section, a link to my post after going to the Redline https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...5&postcount=47

I've done 30K km with the DCTF and the issue getting into 1st has completely gone.

[Doubledown21]

Originally Posted by David.m

Yes it's a DCT fluid but Redline spec it as compatible with the oem MTF-LT-5 (both on their website and container label) but I believe because of it's base needs to be changed more regularly than the oem. It was recommended by another forum member in the Maintenance section, a link to my post after going to the Redline https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...8;postcount=47

I've done 30K km with the DCTF and the issue getting into 1st has completely gone.

Great I appreciate the insight David. Will most likely make the change to the redline fluids soon. The 1st gear nochy issue has been a little frustrating for a car with so little miles. Hopefully it smoothes things out.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Doubledown21

Great I appreciate the insight David. Will most likely make the change to the redline fluids soon. The 1st gear nochy issue has been a little frustrating for a car with so little miles. Hopefully it smoothes things out.

A lot of manuals are like that. Sometimes getting on and off the clutch helps too. My M2C doesn't do it a lot, but my Mazda 3 does. It improves over time. The fluid may or may not help, but it should improve in time.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by David.m

Yes it's a DCT fluid but Redline spec it as compatible with the oem MTF-LT-5 (both on their website and container label) but I believe because of it's base needs to be changed more regularly than the oem. It was recommended by another forum member in the Maintenance section, a link to my post after going to the Redline https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...5&postcount=47

I've done 30K km with the DCTF and the issue getting into 1st has completely gone.

Mine 30k km same issue, i change the fluid (Motul DCTF) together with the short shift cae and the problem disappeared.

[warrenw]

Originally Posted by Prodrive_X

Mine 30k km same issue, i change the fluid (Motul DCTF) together with the short shift cae and the problem disappeared.

What fluid did you use exactly? I love Motul but want to make sure what I buy is correct because I heard that the transmission can be very picky about what fluid you use.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by warrenw

What fluid did you use exactly? I love Motul but want to make sure what I buy is correct because I heard that the transmission can be very picky about what fluid you use.

[Telluride]

I've had my AS SSK installed a couple months now. It took a bit longer to get my kit because I wanted Ron's stiffest bushing and a 30% reduction. Based on his suggestion, I awaited a new bushing supply he'd be using for his G8X kits.

In addition, I had him extend the length of my ssk rod by 20mm. I did this for two reasons -
1) I had switched from a stock shifter knob to MP knob. MP knob is ~7mm shorter than the stock knob.
2) Figured a shorter knob, stiffer bushing and throw reduction... yeah, a little more leverage might be helpful.

What I didn't account for was my shift knob alcantara skirt being too short for the new (longer) shifter rod. Now when sometimes shifting into 1st and definitely into reverse... it pulls the plastic alcantara skirt holder from my console. Annoying as heck. So I've been leaving the skirt flapping (as to not break plastic skirt tabs) until I can buy extra alcantara material and talk my dry cleaner/seamstress into tackling an extended 'shifter skirt' sewing project.

Fast forward a month (maybe two) and I finally got smart and pulled the damn MP knob/skirt off. Like I said, it was annoying and it was blocking me from truly enjoying the feel of the ssk.

So, first thing I tried was driving with just the rod. Not a great idea... end is a bit sharp and I couldn't imagine doing any spirited rowing without a proper grip. Then bingo... the light bulb lit and I brought back my original knob sans skirt. I know, I know... I should've figured this out two months ago! Anyway, I'm now sporting an exposed steel rod capped by my original shift knob. You know what, the rawness kind of looks bad ass.

With all this said, holy cow... combining the original shift knob (taller), with the longer shift rod and a 30% reduction... ridiculously fantastic!!! While I've never been a fan of the CAE shifter (purely due to aesthetics), I think I've stumbled onto the next best thing.

[2020m2c]

Originally Posted by Telluride

I've had my AS SSK installed a couple months now. It took a bit longer to get my kit because I wanted Ron's stiffest bushing and a 30% reduction. Based on his suggestion, I awaited a new bushing supply he'd be using for his G8X kits.

In addition, I had him extend the length of my ssk rod by 20mm. I did this for two reasons -
1) I had switched from a stock shifter knob to MP knob. MP knob is ~7mm shorter than the stock knob.
2) Figured a shorter knob, stiffer bushing and throw reduction... yeah, a little more leverage might be helpful.

What I didn't account for was my shift knob alcantara skirt being too short for the new (longer) shifter rod. Now when sometimes shifting into 1st and definitely into reverse... it pulls the plastic alcantara skirt holder from my console. Annoying as heck. So I've been leaving the skirt flapping (as to not break plastic skirt tabs) until I can buy extra alcantara material and talk my dry cleaner/seamstress into tackling an extended 'shifter skirt' sewing project.

Fast forward a month (maybe two) and I finally got smart and pulled the damn MP knob/skirt off. Like I said, it was annoying and it was blocking me from truly enjoying the feel of the ssk.

So, first thing I tried was driving with just the rod. Not a great idea... end is a bit sharp and I couldn't imagine doing any spirited rowing without a proper grip. Then bingo... the light bulb lit and I brought back my original knob sans skirt. I know, I know... I should've figured this out two months ago! Anyway, I'm now sporting an exposed steel rod capped by my original shift knob. You know what, the rawness kind of looks bad ass.

With all this said, holy cow... combining the original shift knob (taller), with the longer shift rod and a 30% reduction... ridiculously fantastic!!! While I've never been a fan of the CAE shifter (purely due to aesthetics), I think I've stumbled onto the next best thing.

Pictures? Please

[F87source]

Originally Posted by warrenw

What fluid did you use exactly? I love Motul but want to make sure what I buy is correct because I heard that the transmission can be very picky about what fluid you use.

The transmission isn't picky, it's the diff that is picky based on fluid useage. I have seen alot of F8x diffs gernade themselves because the fluid was wrong (a higher friction modifier fluid was used instead aka the e9x m3's saf -xj +fm fluid).

For the transmission you will need to use an MTF-LT5 fluid, and that happens to be fulfilled by a low viscosity differential fluid, so motul dctf and redline dctf are both good choices. I personally have heard alot of good things about redline dctf and its high ester and pao content base stock, I haven't heard much about the motul counter part.

[Telluride]

Originally Posted by 2020m2c

Pictures? Please

Took these today to give you an idea…

[Altra]

I just had this kit installed on my OG M2 a couple days ago. WOW. Like the others that have posted, this kit is an absolute dream. Ronald is a wizard. He suggested I go with 20% reduction and the medium bushings (yellow ones). He also warned me that since I have the M Performance shift knob that the actual reduction would be closer to 25% which would be accompanied by a slight increase in shift effort. I was a bit worried it'd be too heavy to throw, but it's perfect in every way.

Love the extra heft, and the quick snaps into gear. I wanted bolt action like shifts and this kit delivered in spades! My only regret was not doing this as soon as I picked up the car years ago!

[doughboy]

I always enjoy reading others first reactions to the AS SSK.

Having had mine on for over 3 years now it still makes the car special on every drive.

[Zuzu]

Originally Posted by doughboy

I always enjoy reading others first reactions to the AS SSK.

Having had mine on for over 3 years now it still makes the car special on every drive.

Totally agree mate.
I had the SSK on the 1M and didn't realise how much I missed it and the night n day difference until I installed it on the M2C.
Best mod for the 6MT M2 bar none.

[ROBM2C]

Originally Posted by MooMooM2

the question is how much better is the CAE for almost twice the price? and having to cut the console

I just got the CAE , have yet to install it . If you read reviews it's the ssk to have - it's far superior to any other kit hence the price .

Most guys who have made the switch from any ssk to the CAE will never switch back .

[m5_mbb7]

Originally Posted by ROBM2C

I just got the CAE , have yet to install it . If you read reviews it's the ssk to have - it's far superior to any other kit hence the price .

Most guys who have made the switch from any ssk to the CAE will never switch back .

I know quite a few guys who have used the CAE and switched to AS SSK. If you’re not tracking often then it’s overkill for a street car and the NVH and clickyness gets old quick.

[to_riffic]

Originally Posted by m5_mbb7

I know quite a few guys who have used the CAE and switched to AS SSK. If you’re not tracking often then it’s overkill for a street car and the NVH and clickyness gets old quick.

I have them in both my cars. No regrets; the NVH is minimal.