[pawelczyk7]

as far as the cutting to fit the MPE etc. my guy had to do some cutting etc.

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by R0me

I run, decat, aa El resonated, and remus race axle back.

I get the same sound when in neutral and wot until 2k rpm - and it literally scares people 😆 but it also did sound raspy
as standard.
I would say that's part of the car exhaust/turbo setup, and just enjoy when its over 3k rpm.

It's opposite on the n55 it sounded deep low down, and more raspy in the top revs.

Ok…really hope this isn't the case. Listening to the OP's vids, I did not hear the same raspiness around 2k RPM as I do (same stock DPs and back box), so it seems not ever S55 F87 stock setup has this issue.

Also, I do have the valves always open (BimmerLink coded). Don't see how that could be the culprit…but I will put them back to stock (Auto mode) and test again…

[ESB]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Hey, thanks for chiming in!

I agree, the flatulence/metallic vibration I identified occurs more like 1700-2k rpm, while stationary and revving it up with the doors open (can definitely hear in on the 2nd video I posted it above).

However…I believe I can also hear it while accelerating from a red light; albeit everything seems more muted since the doors are closed and road noise.

@ESB the OP and others that received their AAEL, is this the consensus that the bad sound at low RPM is common across all ELs?

PS I definitely need a gopro outside the car to better capture the exhaust upgrade + more accurately identify the low RPMs sound issue

I think the only time I get the sound you're describing is when the pipes are cold. So basically, few minutes after a cold start.

Your cold start video sounds nothing like mine. Mine sounds worse. Are you sure it was truly a cold start? Car wasn't running for many hours?

Net-net for me I think I get nice sound (imo) even at low revs but only after the pipes have warmed up. Prior to that it does not sound good and having valves open only makes it worse. So I run valves closed for the first few minutes after a cold start.

I can try to get iPhone videos to try to compare more apples/apples.

[No_curebimmer]

Thanks OP…the start-up vid I posted yesterday was at lunch time, after the car sat for ~4 hrs.

However, at the end of the work day…here is another cold start, and the rasping sound was clearly evident at 6 seconds mark. See here

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GRD...w?usp=drivesdk

I can't seem to always reproduce the bad sound, but this vid really shows it…

[ESB]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Thanks OP…the start-up vid I posted yesterday was at lunch time, after the car sat for ~4 hrs.

However, at the end of the work day…here is another cold start, and the rasping sound was clearly evident at 6 seconds mark. See here

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GRD...w?usp=drivesdk

I can't seem to always reproduce the bad sound, but this vid really shows it…

YES that 6 second mark is exactly the sound I was expecting to hear in a cold start. It is or used to be so common for me.

Only reason I hesitate is I just made my videos and my cold start didn't have that nasty sounds @ your 6 second mark. So not sure what makes it happen vs not but I've been trained to expect it which is why I doubted you!

Anyways -- here are some clips. Draw your own conclusions. I think I now hear what you're pointing out in the "small revs cold" video but it doesn't bother me and I've never hit it in "real" situations.

And I think as the "warm" video shows, it is only temporary until pipes get warm. This is probably why I don't feel like I hit the tinny sound while doing normal driving.

Btw second two clips include both valves closed (efficient) and open (sport).

Cold start:

Small revs after cold start (cold pipes)

Small revs after ~8 mins of driving (I suspect even just 3-4 mins of driving would be enough since that is when I tend to turn on sports mode)

[ESB]

Also both my videos in OP were after like 2-3 hours of driving

[pawelczyk7]

day 2 EL and MPE ... so my 1st real oppty for cold start and slight vibration for only about 5 to 10 seconds and no issues after / driving to operating temperature. As far as the sound ,,,, it is freakin great !!!! this combo is better than i expected

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by ESB

YES that 6 second mark is exactly the sound I was expecting to hear in a cold start. It is or used to be so common for me.

Only reason I hesitate is I just made my videos and my cold start didn't have that nasty sounds @ your 6 second mark. So not sure what makes it happen vs not but I've been trained to expect it which is why I doubted you!

Anyways -- here are some clips. Draw your own conclusions. I think I now hear what you're pointing out in the "small revs cold" video but it doesn't bother me and I've never hit it in "real" situations.

And I think as the "warm" video shows, it is only temporary until pipes get warm. This is probably why I don't feel like I hit the tinny sound while doing normal driving.

Btw second two clips include both valves closed (efficient) and open (sport).

Cold start:

Small revs after cold start (cold pipes)

Small revs after ~8 mins of driving (I suspect even just 3-4 mins of driving would be enough since that is when I tend to turn on sports mode)

Hey thanks for posting these...in your vids, I can somewhat hear the same 'bad tinny/freq. resonance" around 2k when engine is cold, so I guess that's the way it is (cold starts and cold engine - exhaust ain't all that, once warm and > 2k RPM, it's a definite sweeter, refined growl). This AM, I just coded the exhaust valves back to AUTO using BimmerLink (initially it was always ON). I will monitor in the upcoming days if that made any improvement on cold engine/cold starts.

FYI... as I pretty much EXCLUSEVELY drive the car in Sport+ mode, all my vids that I posted in the last few days were taken in the Sport+ mode. My normal start up sequence: start car, wait 1-2 mins, and drive off in Sport+ mode, so I think it's fair to say I'm not really in tune (see what I did there??) with how my car sounds in Efficient or Sport modes, even when I had the stock mid-pipe.

Ok...lastly. Unfortunately, I suffer from upgraditis, so I may have started a domino effect: I think the car is still quiet inside, even with the non-resonated EL midpipe. Outside, the exhaust is the bee's knees, but inside it's still too muted for my taste (and yes, I have the AD coded off). I am in Texas with temps well over 105, so driving with the windows open isn't an option during the summers.

I am not looking to spend 2-3 mortgage payments (like the MPE or the Akra typically demand) on a muffler job, so what is the most recommended and somewhat cost efficient backbox/muffler pairing with the non-resonated AA EL to increase the exhaust note inside the cabin? Remus Race, Remus Sport, Dinan, AA Valved?

[echoshotz]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

so what is the most recommended and somewhat cost efficient backbox/muffler pairing with the non-resonated AA EL to increase the exhaust note inside the cabin? Remus Race, Remus Sport, Dinan, AA Valved?

It sounds like they're all great options with remus race being a louder/somewhat raw sound, and the sport being more dialed back, and from videos the AA sitting in the middle. I have the Aa valved on order (which is supposed to be in stock and shipping) to match with currently installed nonres EL, but I've had silence for two weeks from them/xph on when it'll ship.

[Nicname]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Hey thanks for posting these...in your vids, I can somewhat hear the same 'bad tinny/freq. resonance" around 2k when engine is cold, so I guess that's the way it is (cold starts and cold engine - exhaust ain't all that, once warm and > 2k RPM, it's a definite sweeter, refined growl). This AM, I just coded the exhaust valves back to AUTO using BimmerLink (initially it was always ON). I will monitor in the upcoming days if that made any improvement on cold engine/cold starts.

FYI... as I pretty much EXCLUSEVELY drive the car in Sport+ mode, all my vids that I posted in the last few days were taken in the Sport+ mode. My normal start up sequence: start car, wait 1-2 mins, and drive off in Sport+ mode, so I think it's fair to say I'm not really in tune (see what I did there??) with how my car sounds in Efficient or Sport modes, even when I had the stock mid-pipe.

Ok...lastly. Unfortunately, I suffer from upgraditis, so I may have started a domino effect: I think the car is still quiet inside, even with the non-resonated EL midpipe. Outside, the exhaust is the bee's knees, but inside it's still too muted for my taste (and yes, I have the AD coded off). I am in Texas with temps well over 105, so driving with the windows open isn't an option during the summers.

I am not looking to spend 2-3 mortgage payments (like the MPE or the Akra typically demand) on a muffler job, so what is the most recommended and somewhat cost efficient backbox/muffler pairing with the non-resonated AA EL to increase the exhaust note inside the cabin? Remus Race, Remus Sport, Dinan, AA Valved?

I heard that bimmerlink's option to leave exhaust flaps on only lasts for a bit before reverting back. Was this your experience?

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by Nicname

I heard that bimmerlink's option to leave exhaust flaps on only lasts for a bit before reverting back. Was this your experience?

Within a few weeks of getting my car last year, I used BimmerLInk to code out the burbles and force open the exhaust flaps. I DEFINELY can confirm that the burbles are saved to the DME, but I really can't comment re: flaps, as I can't really distinguish between the valve modes BimmerLInk offers (ON, OFF or AUTO). Currently I reverted to Auto, which I think it's the OEM mode.

[ESB]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Within a few weeks of getting my car last year, I used BimmerLInk to code out the burbles and force open the exhaust flaps. I DEFINELY can confirm that the burbles are saved to the DME, but I really can't comment re: flaps, as I can't really distinguish between the valve modes BimmerLInk offers (ON, OFF or AUTO). Currently I reverted to Auto, which I think it's the OEM mode.

I guess easiest way to test is to set to On and then after car restart / few days try flooring it in Efficient and see if it sounds loud. Since OEM/Auto has valves closed in Efficient all the time.

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by ESB

I guess easiest way to test is to set to On and then after car restart / few days try flooring it in Efficient and see if it sounds loud. Since OEM/Auto has valves closed in Efficient all the time.

Got it - so the flaps only impact the efficient mode. Well, no wonder why I couldn't see/hear a difference- I never drive my M2C in efficient nor sport modes - solely Sport +, which apparently keeps the valves open all the time.

[ESB]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Got it - so the flaps only impact the efficient mode. Well, no wonder why I couldn't see/hear a difference- I never drive my M2C in efficient nor sport modes - solely Sport +, which apparently keeps the valves open all the time.

Supposedly OEM/AUTO also keep flaps closed in sports modes under 3k rpm.

But I've found that hard to confirm. When revving in neutral it's certainly not true.

[sai_dee]

Originally Posted by pawelczyk7

day 2 EL and MPE ... so my 1st real oppty for cold start and slight vibration for only about 5 to 10 seconds and no issues after / driving to operating temperature. As far as the sound ,,,, it is freakin great !!!! this combo is better than i expected

Please post video!

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by ESB

I think the only time I get the sound you're describing is when the pipes are cold.

Honing in on this comment as this hasn't been my use case: I actually get the bad tinny vibration noise I reported regardless if the pipes are cold or not. After, say about 1 hr of driving, I can still get this noise while modulating the throttle while at stop sign (in first gear, clutch pressed) or driving into the garage (usually happens around 2k RPM).

Would love to get ONLYACTIVE or Mike@X-PH feedback on this. I am totally fine in having this bad noise only at start-up or for the first few mins while the car is warming up...but not my case. Sure, my car sounds bad-a$$ past 3k RPM, but unfortunately I would still need to wound up the engine to get to the good sounding part. Could this be bad install, exhaust leak, or some mechanical vibration?

as to why, once engine/pipes are all warm, I can't get a clean consistent exhaust note across the entire RPM band. Wasn't AA EL midpipe supposed to address this?

[pawelczyk7]

[/URL][/URL]

A couple 5k pull vids and one inside the cabin vid. EL midpipe and MPE with stock downpipes. Over the next week or so, will look to find some open road and gets some vids revving the car out a bit.
check replies for 2 other vids.

[pawelczyk7]

[pawelczyk7]

[Nareck @ FGP]

Originally Posted by pawelczyk7

Sounds great

[sai_dee]

Originally Posted by pawelczyk7

Sounds incredible, MPE will be my choice if the stock exhaust isn't enough.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Honing in on this comment as this hasn't been my use case: I actually get the bad tinny vibration noise I reported regardless if the pipes are cold or not. After, say about 1 hr of driving, I can still get this noise while modulating the throttle while at stop sign (in first gear, clutch pressed) or driving into the garage (usually happens around 2k RPM).

Would love to get ONLYACTIVE or Mike@X-PH feedback on this. I am totally fine in having this bad noise only at start-up or for the first few mins while the car is warming up...but not my case. Sure, my car sounds bad-a$$ past 3k RPM, but unfortunately I would still need to wound up the engine to get to the good sounding part. Could this be bad install, exhaust leak, or some mechanical vibration?

as to why, once engine/pipes are all warm, I can't get a clean consistent exhaust note across the entire RPM band. Wasn't AA EL midpipe supposed to address this?

Vibration or drone is caused by a bad install. The equal length has minimum clearance, the install has to be perfect for it not to drone.

i ran into the same issue on my own car and had to reinstall it to get rid of the vibration