05-24-2022, 07:30 PM | #45 |
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same issue replaced. put a little nick in my paint where the light is though! Buena Park BMW. don't go there.
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05-24-2022, 07:48 PM | #46 | |
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It's a know issue because they never corrected the underlying reason for it; they just keep swapping fully functioning taillights and sending the customer on their way, until they show up a few months late - rinse and repeat. I find it strange that not one of the bean-counters at BMW AG realize how much money they are unnecessarily wasting on this and actually attempt correct this issue. Good news for the taillight manufacturer's shareholders. I mean, it didn't dawn on anyone in QA that maybe there is another reason that every single F22/87 on planet earth is supposedly coming back as "defective." There is only so many parts in the LED light that can possible go bad and any technician with a multimeter and half a brain can test the PCB for an actual defect and give their feedback. Good luck with your new light but I guarantee the issue is going to return until the vehicle lighting mapping is actually corrected. |
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05-24-2022, 07:48 PM | #47 |
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I've had this error happen many times randomly with my 2020 M2C, using Carly app (similar to Bimmercode) many months ago I have deactivated that bulb check and I haven't had any more problems ever. The lights work normally always. I remember also a previous thread like this that some people were saying that removing this check could be dangerous because it could cause a fire (don't remember the logic in that) or that you won't know when the light actually goes out (it's a LED it shouldn't go bad, and if it does you will notice eventually or probably the entire tail light will go out) so any of that didn't make sense to me.
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05-24-2022, 08:04 PM | #48 | |
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If anyone is worried about their vehicle "catching fire" from this simple coding change, they can contact Bimmercode (or Carly) via the APP and verify it's safe. In my experience, they are pretty supportive. |
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05-24-2022, 08:07 PM | #49 | |
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https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ht+malfunction Last edited by DanG; 05-24-2022 at 08:17 PM.. |
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05-24-2022, 08:16 PM | #50 | |
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I’m probably going to end up doing this, so I just want to make sure I get it straight. Thanks for your input. |
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05-24-2022, 08:24 PM | #51 |
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I don't understand why checking off the check light would make the car go on fire lol, that makes no sense.
I just read pages and pages of that thread. ahha that was crazy. I still don't see how something like that would cause the car to burst into flames, I guess he did say it could but I don't know enough about this but also reading Chris responses it seems somewhat safe and really the only solution? Because keeping on putting new tail lights in is not a solution here and really a waste of time and money Last edited by MooMooM2; 05-24-2022 at 08:41 PM.. |
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05-24-2022, 08:43 PM | #52 | ||
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That could mean under those changes they've grouped all the individual coding parameters I suggested are necessary or maybe just some of them. It's difficult to tell unless I go through each individual coding parameters and verify that "active or "unassigned value" contains all the values changes required to accomplish this task. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't. The only absolute way to verify that this is done properly is to bypass the "active' or 'unassigned value" option and make each individual parameter change under "Expert Mode" then save it. I first suggested that you used the pre-populated menu option to simplify this change for folks here, with the unverified assumption that this would accomplish the task we are attempt to achieve but I believe it's better code each individually line I've listed under the "Expert Mode" menu instead. Hope I didn't confuse you 😉 A little more FYI what each parameter translate to: WARMUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]WARM MONITORING[/COLOR] KALTUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]COLD MONITORING[/COLOR] |
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05-24-2022, 10:09 PM | #53 | |
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05-24-2022, 10:39 PM | #54 | ||
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I have a keen understanding of how the system works and why this issue is occurring, thus, the correction required to resolve it, which has helped many over the years, without incident. However, no one is putting a gun to your head; if you prefer having to roll into your dealership every other month to swap out perfectly good taillights, that's your prerogative. Just keep in mind that this model has been discontinued and all the ones sold already are almost out of warranty, yet BMW hasn't proposed an official solution. So I wouldn't hold my breath on that happening anytime soon. More than likely they'll keep sweeping it under the rug until they are not responsible anymore but I guarantee this error will keep reoccurring long after the warranty expires or until you get rid of your vehicle, if coding corrections are not made. |
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05-24-2022, 10:46 PM | #55 |
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Just make sure if you guys are coding LED options to not use any soft on options, soft on pwm's the bulb to make it gently dim on and off. This is not good for LED's so you must use hard on, or if soft on LED is available you can use that.
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05-24-2022, 11:14 PM | #56 | |
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All power input for the LEDs in the vehicle are protected by its own voltage regulator/resistor, soft on/off wouldn't do anything to affect it. Some BMWs even come with that feature coded standard to soft. |
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05-24-2022, 11:18 PM | #57 | |
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Despite having a voltage regulator if you ask the car to pwm the voltage for the light to dim it as it would do for an incandecent bulb it will pwm the voltage for the LED which is not good for the bulb. The modern bmws that have soft on's have the LED soft on mode, which is designed for LEDs.
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05-24-2022, 11:43 PM | #58 | ||
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The taillight circuit board has on-board resistors that limit the current going to the LEDs. The power from the REM goes through this board before going to the LED tail lights themselves, making sure a safe, set, steady current is provided to the LEDs. Even if you try to code the rear Welcome Light to "soft on" the LED regulator only allows one set amount of power, with no modulation, so "hard on" is the only option. I messed around couple of times with no avail but soft-on did work for the pre-LCI incandescents taillights, since it didn't have its own power regulator as LED taillights do. |
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05-25-2022, 12:07 AM | #59 | |
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05-25-2022, 03:57 PM | #60 |
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To expand on the subject, here is some detail information on what is "cold" & "warm" bulb monitoring from BMW's official technical manual.
BMW allows their vehicle have it either on or off, depending on the type of lighting used (LED or incandescent). Consider it an elaborate "idiot light" for your turn signal and not a necessity or creates any hazardous conditions. It simply suppresses are errors, such as rapid-flashing signal light. . Last edited by Poochie; 05-25-2022 at 04:11 PM.. |
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05-25-2022, 04:58 PM | #61 |
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So if the bulb check is triggered, then the tail light stops working?
I want to make sure my car's behavior is consistent. Whenever this warning sounds, the actual rear passenger tail light will not light up. Inevitably, when I turn the car off, the warning goes away and the tail light works like normal...until the next time the warning is triggered. Is this what people are seeing? |
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05-25-2022, 05:19 PM | #62 | |
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05-25-2022, 05:41 PM | #63 | |
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Think of it this way; you know how when your gas tank is about to be empty, you get a pop-up warning, indicting there is like 20 miles left before you're running on fumes. Imagine disabling this specific warning message (which you can BTW) so it no longer notifies you of this event. That's essentially what you are doing by disabling the turn signal bulb check warning message. Everything still works as normal but it's just the system is no longer checking for any faults, thus, no more rapid-flashing turn signal warning. Like I mentioned, LEDs last the life of the vehicle, so the bulb check is really unnecessary. And you are not disabling the system check for any other lighting, just specifically the (rear) turn signal only. All other warning lights such as the brake, tails, reverse, ect remains active. BMW disables the bulb check for all their other vehicles with LED turn signal lights but some strange reason they left it on for the 2 Series, which makes absolutely no sense. I believe it's an oversight on their part that they just refuse to correct. . |
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05-25-2022, 06:43 PM | #64 | |
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I am not sure why the bulb check would be turning off the LED - unless it’s cutting power as some sort of protection scheme? |
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05-25-2022, 07:36 PM | #65 | ||
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amount of power (current) usage. So say the computer is mapped to expect 5 amps of usage from incandescent bulb. LEDs lights draw a fraction of that, let's say .9 amps. So now with LEDs installed, the computer mapping expecting a 5 amp draw from an incandescent bulb but since it's only pulling .9 amps from an LED, under the thresholds it is programed to expect, it is assuming that there is a fault or an opened circuit (burnt out bulb). As a result, the blinker is made to blink faster as an indication that you have a failed lamp even though the LED is working fine. [COLOR="Green"]The "rapid flashing" indicator is just to notify the driver that a bulb might be out, which is federally mandated automotive requirement. All vehicles, not just BMWs, does this when it assumes a turn signal bulb might be out as a heads-up to the responsible vehicle's operator. [/COLOR] When BMW went from pre-LCI incandescent turn signal lights to LCI LEDs, they used the same (REM) computer and incandescent bulb mapping, which is why the system is assuming it still has a defective incandescent bulb installed, due to the lower power draw from functioning LEDs. With the "bulb checks" still on, the computer is not able to distinguish the difference between an actual burnt out (5V) halogen bulb and a (.9) fully-functioning low power draw LED light, so an error code or lamp out indicator is triggered. It doesn't cut any power or affect the lighting function in any way by disabling the bulb checks. All it's doing is asking the computer to no longer notify you if there is any rear turn signal faults, an option for which it is naturally designed for. Everything works as is suppose to just without the incorrect fault messages being trigged. . |
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05-25-2022, 07:59 PM | #66 | |
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When my warning light goes on - the tail light is not actually working. I'll walk to the back of the car and see that the light is physically not blinking ( or else it's extremely dim and not visible in the day light). This is not just a false alarm situation - I actually have a dysfunctional tail light when the the warning chimes. Sometimes the light will start working again and the rapid blinking inside the car goes away. Or if I turn the car off and back on again - everything is back to to normal. For other folks who have the tail light warning - are your tail lights actually working despite the warning? |
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