06-09-2020, 10:29 PM | #23 | |
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So you're saying stay in 4th, low RPM, then floor it and when boost kicks in (and assuming air in line) the additional boosted torque when turbo kicks in will cause a slip? So in other words, I'm not shifting anything during this? I'm also experiencing what I thought could be differential slip when turning tightly at slow speed and my foot in the pedal a bit. Could that be a manifestation of the same problem, or something different? Basically it just feels a little "crunchy." Man I'd be stoked if both of these issues were a result of something simple.... |
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06-11-2020, 04:07 AM | #24 |
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I'm planning to replace my brake fluid for the first time soon (probably will take out the CDV at the same time).
I was thinking about making an adapter that would screw on top of the reservoir and hold significant amount of new fluid. Wouldn't that help avoiding accidentally letting the fluid level drop too low? |
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06-11-2020, 02:47 PM | #25 | |
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06-11-2020, 03:10 PM | #26 | ||
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The issue with filling is that you have to be really really careful. A single pump of the pedal may be enough to drain the clutch side, resulting in bubbles in the line. I'm not in favour of reverse bleeding, despite those that have had success. There is a reason you need a lot of pressure to bleed backwards... there are 1 way valves in the clutch line that you're pushing against. Knowing this is helpful because it also means that you don't need two people to bleed even if you don't use a pressure system
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06-11-2020, 08:46 PM | #27 |
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I didn't realize it was relatively inexpensive, I thought it was some complicated machine with electrical compressor that would cost hundreds. I'm gonna be putting some high temp fluid for track and that needs to be replaced more often so I will definitely benefit from it.
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07-07-2020, 07:02 AM | #28 |
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I recently had the E90 slave cylinder installed on my M2. Engagement feels MUCH better, just like my old E92 clutch after CDV delete. However when I first hopped in the M2 after the install, I noticed the clutch pedal had a couple inches of very soft travel before I felt normal pedal resistance. I asked the shop to re-bleed the clutch, which they did and most of the softness went away. But there’s still about an inch of travel at the top that is totally soft. Do you think this is due to air bubbles still in the line? Or is an inch or two of soft travel normal for the M2? For comparison, my E92 that I bled myself has consistent pressure throughout the pedal travel.
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07-08-2020, 07:27 PM | #29 | |
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I had a similar experience as you when I had the E90 clutch slave cylinder installed https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...3&postcount=41 I had the shop completely rebleed both the clutch and brakes which pretty much took care of the issue Nevertheless, I still found the clutch pedal to be just a little bit softer than it was with the stock slave cylinder As a result, I ended up installing an Ultimate Clutch Pedal HTH YMMV |
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07-09-2020, 03:45 PM | #30 |
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Thanks, that thread was very informative. I saw some folks mentioning they still had a bit of "dead" travel at the top. Do you still have that 1" of nothingness after your re-bleed?
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07-09-2020, 07:26 PM | #31 | |
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However, as I mentioned earlier, the clutch pedal was still just a bit too soft for me with the E90 slave cylinder so I got an Ultimate Clutch Pedal to firm it up |
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07-12-2020, 08:55 PM | #32 |
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I originally reverse bled after removing the CDV. I posted in this thread about some odd behaviors. I went out and bought a $50 Motive bleeder and I think I corrected the issues I had from the reverse bleed. I'm not saying reverse bleeding doesn't work, but in my case I don't think I was able to do it effectively.
When I used the motive (process: remove clutch stop, dumped what I had left of a quart bottle of DOT4, pressurized it to ~15PSI and simply let it pass through a couple pints of fluid by opening the bleeder on the slave, waiting until bubbles dissipated, and closing it again), it sputtered a little air through at first, and then flat out farted out a lot more air before settling down again and eventually just passing new fluid through. So not sure what I did with the syringe when reverse bleeding (I used the same one linked earlier in the thread) but it either introduced or left air in the system after CDV removal. Clutch was limp after the process I listed above until I gave it 20-30 presses, now it feels good again. I didn't touch the pedal while the Motive was connected, so not sure if that's a problem or not per another post--I was relying on pressure from the Motive to move the fluid. Honestly it's been months since I did the reverse bleed, and I haven't put a ton of miles on it during COVID, so it's hard for me to compare now to before all of the work, but I feel like the clutch feels lighter. Engagement is better. I don't appear to have the super scary delay at WOT but need to drive it some more. |
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07-12-2020, 09:50 PM | #33 | |
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But a couple of pints? Holy crap that's alot of fluid, imagine flushing with castrol SRF that would be like throwing liquid gold down the toilet. I think if I were to do it I would flush it with oem dot 4 since it is dirt cheap and then once all of the bubbles are gone I will switch the whole loop to SRF, or maybe motul rbf.
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07-12-2020, 10:14 PM | #34 | |
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edit: I think Nezil said above to run 3 oz. through. At roughly that amount I was still pushing serious bubbles in the line. But as we now know, I'm not good at estimating. But for other rooks, I'd go until you see new fluid and no air. |
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08-31-2020, 08:21 PM | #35 |
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Those of you using the motive bleeder, are you pumping the clutch through the process while the motive is pressurized and the bleed screw is cracked? Or just pressurizing, cracking the screw, and letting the fluid and air go. I've got a motive on hand from previous cars and thankfully got a BMW reservoir attachment for it so I'm considering giving this a go
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08-31-2020, 09:07 PM | #36 | |
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08-31-2020, 09:08 PM | #37 | |
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08-31-2020, 11:06 PM | #39 |
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Yeah bleed it by squeezing the slave cylinder in your hand while opening and closing the bleed nipple and tiling the cylinder around to get the air bubbles to rise out. This is the best way to do it, ista says to do it this way as well do bleeding a brand new slave cylinder. Squeeze it until it is firm, the best way to get a feel for this is to remove the slave cylinder from the transmission and feel how firm it is before removing it.
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07-17-2021, 01:02 PM | #40 |
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Oh great. I just got to reading all these. Same experience…. Kinda light at top. I didn’t remove the BMS stop but I didn’t thought about it. so now what? Nezil’s advice of filling the reservoir full, opening the bleed screw then pumping the clutch pedal 1-2 times isn’t going to work?
Last edited by vrooooom; 07-17-2021 at 11:17 PM.. |
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07-17-2021, 03:03 PM | #41 | |
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07-17-2021, 08:10 PM | #42 | |
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Also tiling. Is that supposed to be tilting? Sorry man I’m really confused by the instructions. So the procedure requires we remove the slave out and doing all these bleeding BEFORE finally mounting it? I also tried looking for the link you said you posted to demonstrate the process. Didn’t see any link you posted here. Is it on another group perhaps. Is that the link below? Last edited by vrooooom; 07-17-2021 at 09:26 PM.. |
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07-17-2021, 08:46 PM | #43 | |
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I thought the power bleeders keep the reservoir always full? Isn’t that what it’s designed to do? So if I put 355ml into that then I don’t need anyone watching the reservoir anymore with a flashlight. I can safely assume it’s always full. Am I understanding you well? |
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07-17-2021, 11:03 PM | #44 |
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Was going to drive the car out this morning and the clutch had no resistance. All air. Crap.
Going to buy a couple more bottles and 1) Remove the clutch slave out of the transmission 2) Fill reservoir. Attach the pressure bleeder and pressurize it. 3) Remove the BMS stop. Not sure if this matters but will just do it anyways. Not sure this will come off without a fight. 4) Do as the video shows. Depress plunger and hold…. Open bleed screw & close. Repeat a few times. Sounds about right? |
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