[LLB-M2]

Which brand is recommend for Turbo inlet? I allready have charge and boostpipe from FTP Motorsport, rest is stock.
How is the change of the engine character with the inlet? More horsepower even with stock software? More spooling sound of the turbo?

[Wolfman’s Brother]

I would not bother with a turbo inlet unless doing DV, and I wouldn’t mess with DV unless upgrading the turbo.

I just haven’t seen any evidence that the juice is worth the squeeze.

Once you’re tearing into the hot side, sure, but otherwise to hell with that job.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by LLB-M2

Which brand is recommend for Turbo inlet? I allready have charge and boostpipe from FTP Motorsport, rest is stock.
How is the change of the engine character with the inlet? More horsepower even with stock software? More spooling sound of the turbo?

I would buy one of these: CTS turbo, MST, BMS. Don't buy a full aluminium inlet, you would preferably want the flex that comes with the silicone ones. No power gains, no sound increase. You will get a reduction in WGDC though so your turbos will be happier, you will also pick up some throttle response.

Originally Posted by Wolfman’s Brother

I would not bother with a turbo inlet unless doing DV, and I wouldn’t mess with DV unless upgrading the turbo.

I just haven’t seen any evidence that the juice is worth the squeeze.

Once you’re tearing into the hot side, sure, but otherwise to hell with that job.

Not really true, a DV will give you better throttle response and lowers WGDC, same with the inlet. These two together noticeably give better throttle response so I personally think they were worth while mods. So when you flush the coolant so do them at the same time, the job isn't that bad.

[AmuroRay]

DV/Inlet increased my throttle response and lowered WGDC as well.

Edit - on a stock tuned car, 3t3p made a dyno proven 10hp increase with no other mods.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

DV/Inlet increased my throttle response and lowered WGDC as well.

Edit - on a stock tuned car, 3t3p made a dyno proven 10hp increase with no other mods.

I stand corected

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by F87source

I stand corected

No worries.
Bee Pee also made about 10whp+ with an inlet and JB4 retune at the time.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

No worries.
Bee Pee also made about 10whp+ with an inlet and JB4 retune at the time.

Yeah I remember seeing the dyno plot when pure first launched their inlets. I just slipped up answering the question and thought power gain as in from the diverter valve not considering the inlet.

[Wolfman’s Brother]

Originally Posted by F87source

Not really true, a DV will give you better throttle response and lowers WGDC, same with the inlet. These two together noticeably give better throttle response so I personally think they were worth while mods. So when you flush the coolant so do them at the same time, the job isn't that bad.

Was under the impression that DV/Inlet were about as involved as pulling the turbo. If it’s not bad, I may consider it, but lower wgdc and throttle response aren’t things I pine for after a drive.

Do you think I’d see any power gains on a BM3 S291 setup? My assumption is no but as we all can tell, I’m wrong occasionally.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Wolfman’s Brother

Was under the impression that DV/Inlet were about as involved as pulling the turbo. If it’s not bad, I may consider it, but lower wgdc and throttle response aren’t things I pine for after a drive.

Do you think I’d see any power gains on a BM3 S291 setup? My assumption is no but as we all can tell, I’m wrong occasionally.

It's not easy but definitely no where near the difficulty of a turbo replacement. It's more of a time consuming thing because of how much stuff you have to remove.

You'd likely gain more power with a tune vs. just being stock

[Sundinisagod]

Originally Posted by F87source

It's not easy but definitely no where near the difficulty of a turbo replacement. It's more of a time consuming thing because of how much stuff you have to remove.

You'd likely gain more power with a tune vs. just being stock

How many hours labour would you guess a decent shop would charge?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Sundinisagod

How many hours labour would you guess a decent shop would charge?

I have no idea unfortunately. If I were to do it again I could do the entire job in less than a day. That includes a coolant flush.

[LLB-M2]

Oh Ok ich hope i understand ehat you all mean.

So, the engine will have a bit faster response to throttle changes?!
No power gains, no sound, Ok.
But what about the lower WGDC? Does this mean that the Wastegate is more closed in low rpm than whit stock inlet, so boost will increase faster?

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

DV/Inlet increased my throttle response and lowered WGDC as well.

Edit - on a stock tuned car, 3t3p made a dyno proven 10hp increase with no other mods.

Installing my turbo inlet was an absolutely huge improvement IMO

It brought my car to life even on a stock tune without running an intercooler

Now that I have added the cooler to the equation it feels like a different car

Revs nicely now all the way to redline

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by LLB-M2

Oh Ok ich hope i understand ehat you all mean.

So, the engine will have a bit faster response to throttle changes?!
No power gains, no sound, Ok.
But what about the lower WGDC? Does this mean that the Wastegate is more closed in low rpm than whit stock inlet, so boost will increase faster?

It increases power, throttle response and allows the turbo to work less. Technically it will hold boost better, but I can’t quantify if it spools quicker.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

It increases power, throttle response and allows the turbo to work less. Technically it will hold boost better, but I can’t quantify if it spools quicker.

It absolutely spools up quicker

Like sucking through a much larger straw

[LLB-M2]

Ah, i understand, thanks!

[AmuroRay]

I think it costs me 200ish for the DV and inlet install at the same time, the mechanic stated it wasn't that bad.

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by F87source

I would buy one of these: CTS turbo, MST, BMS. Don't buy a full aluminium inlet, you would preferably want the flex that comes with the silicone ones. No power gains, no sound increase. You will get a reduction in WGDC though so your turbos will be happier, you will also pick up some throttle response.




Not really true, a DV will give you better throttle response and lowers WGDC, same with the inlet. These two together noticeably give better throttle response so I personally think they were worth while mods. So when you flush the coolant so do them at the same time, the job isn't that bad.

Pardon my ignorance, but why do you want flex? So that rules out the pure inlet (which I've heard is highly recommended as well)?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by eeyang92

Pardon my ignorance, but why do you want flex? So that rules out the pure inlet (which I've heard is highly recommended as well)?

No problem. So what I found was that the solid aluminium inlets don't have any flex at all (obviously), so when the engine rocks back and forth while it is revved, the inlet doesn't move and neither does the intake. That silicone coupler offers little to no flex so the inlet is pushed or pulled against the mount of the turbo. This metal on metal contact causes galling and etches the mouth of the turbo and can generate metallic dust fragments. The good thing is that this is on the outside of the inlet and no air flow goes by this area so the metallic dust doesn't get sucked into the turbo. So you will want flex to alleviate this issue.


This occured a tiny bit with my pure section 1 inlet which is just the piece you have to use inconjunction with the stock inlet, but I have addressed the issue now. This is how I discovered this issue, and thankfully I caught it early or else it would have probably gotten worse. But quickly, to fix it I rotated the inlet a bit and now the accordian flex joint on the stock inlet has enough expansion room to move in and out as the engine rocks back and forth so there won't be strain on the inlet. I have also put alot of quality high temp ptfe lube on the inlet mouth to stop any galling and metal on metal rubbing that can occur between the inlet and turbo. I used super lube if you are interested, this is the best lube out there (super high operating temp range too), nothing compares and I could literally talk alot about this stuff. So this seemed to solve my issues. So yeah without this flex that a silicone inlet has, or the really flexibile accordian section the stock inlet has the metal inlet ring will eat up the turbo over time.

So I don't recommend fully metal inlets, pure also powder coats the part that goes into the turbo which is stupid because as the turbo inlet is stressed that powder coating will flake off and will now be stuck around that turbo area. So the next time you take out the inlet and it is free it can get sucked into the turbo if you don't clean it carefully. FTP is a slight exception because they include a silicone ring for the turbo inlet part that prevents metal on metal contact, but it isn't perfect because there's no flex anywhere so it still puts alot of strain when the engine move.

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by F87source

No problem. So what I found was that the solid aluminium inlets don't have any flex at all (obviously), so when the engine rocks back and forth while it is revved, the inlet doesn't move and neither does the intake. That silicone coupler offers little to no flex so the inlet is pushed or pulled against the mount of the turbo. This metal on metal contact causes galling and etches the mouth of the turbo and can generate metallic dust fragments. The good thing is that this is on the outside of the inlet and no air flow goes by this area so the metallic dust doesn't get sucked into the turbo. So you will want flex to alleviate this issue.


This occured a tiny bit with my pure section 1 inlet which is just the piece you have to use inconjunction with the stock inlet, but I have addressed the issue now. This is how I discovered this issue, and thankfully I caught it early or else it would have probably gotten worse. But quickly, to fix it I rotated the inlet a bit and now the accordian flex joint on the stock inlet has enough expansion room to move in and out as the engine rocks back and forth so there won't be strain on the inlet. I have also put alot of quality high temp ptfe lube on the inlet mouth to stop any galling and metal on metal rubbing that can occur between the inlet and turbo. I used super lube if you are interested, this is the best lube out there (super high operating temp range too), nothing compares and I could literally talk alot about this stuff. So this seemed to solve my issues. So yeah without this flex that a silicone inlet has, or the really flexibile accordian section the stock inlet has the metal inlet ring will eat up the turbo over time.

So I don't recommend fully metal inlets, pure also powder coats the part that goes into the turbo which is stupid because as the turbo inlet is stressed that powder coating will flake off and will now be stuck around that turbo area. So the next time you take out the inlet and it is free it can get sucked into the turbo if you don't clean it carefully. FTP is a slight exception because they include a silicone ring for the turbo inlet part that prevents metal on metal contact, but it isn't perfect because there's no flex anywhere so it still puts alot of strain when the engine move.

I see, thanks for the tip. I suppose that all sounds fairly reasonable. MST seems like a good choice whereas CTS is cheaper - which one are you running? Is it conclusive which inlet has the largest ID? I seem to remember reading a thread about that but that was a long time ago...

[F87source]

Originally Posted by eeyang92

I see, thanks for the tip. I suppose that all sounds fairly reasonable. MST seems like a good choice whereas CTS is cheaper - which one are you running? Is it conclusive which inlet has the largest ID? I seem to remember reading a thread about that but that was a long time ago...

Yeah mst is a good choice alot of people are running it. CTS and BMS are other options.


I'm still running the pure inlet, the shorty version. I've just addressed the short comings and adjusted it so it doesn't cause me any more issues. But the key is to have the ptfe lube because that will stop the galling, I would reckon any metal turbo portion inlet would cause metal shavings to be produced over time just due to metal on metal contact (full metal ones will obviously be worse). The only way to fully stop it is with lube.


I don't recommend the pure shorty inlet anymore, get something better like the most inlet.

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by F87source

Yeah mst is a good choice alot of people are running it. CTS and BMS are other options.


I'm still running the pure inlet, the shorty version. I've just addressed the short comings and adjusted it so it doesn't cause me any more issues. But the key is to have the ptfe lube because that will stop the galling, I would reckon any metal turbo portion inlet would cause metal shavings to be produced over time just due to metal on metal contact (full metal ones will obviously be worse). The only way to fully stop it is with lube.


I don't recommend the pure shorty inlet anymore, get something better like the most inlet.

Thanks