[jefe2000]

Originally Posted by jefe2000

I’ve been thinking the same thing! Last I checked, FCP Euro doesn’t carry the LCI/M2C taillights — they just have the OG taillight assemblies in stock. It’ll be great when (if?) they start carrying them!

I’ve recently learned that FCP Euro is now carrying the LCI/M2C rear light assemblies. Yes! That means this problem is now effectively covered by FCP’s lifetime guarantee.

Left assembly:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mw-63217420993

Right assembly:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mw-63217420994

[Enabled]

The newly produced replacement taillights seem to have fixed the issue/flaw in the original ones.

[krumpet]

FWIW I tried coding it out which fixed the rapid flashing issue, but then I went around the car and the left rear turn signal was intermittently out (sometimes it'd kick on after a few seconds and sometimes not, sometimes only barely lit up).

Not a big deal as I need to get the car in for service anyway, but just putting it out there in case there are any folks who assumed it's just a coding thing when really there might be a bigger issue.

Glad I caught it because I've checked the turn signals when rapidly flashing (and not) before and it seemed to be lighting up normally, so I wonder if there's a bunch of other folks out there thinking they've fixed the issue when their signal is pretty much out...

I ended up giving it the fonz and it's working now.

[No_curebimmer]

Originally Posted by Enabled

The newly produced replacement taillights seem to have fixed the issue/flaw in the original ones.

That is very exciting & encouraging!

Given previous reports, however, it seemed that a light fixture swap only temporarily fixed the issue as it eventually returned. What sort of data is there that points to a permanent fix? Is there a different P/N that has a better design & implementation? Any ideas what changed or improved?

Thanks all!

[DieselNM]

Hi, thanks to everyone who has raised this issue. I have set the LED indicator option in Bimmercode to active but it looks like the in the video before that the light intensity is very poor and flickers from time to time, but with this option the error message and the fast flashing is gone. I will now try the additional settings (expertmode) in Bimmercode that were mentioned here. If that doesn't work I will try bending the contacts. Since my car is from 2019, I don't think there is any guarantee for me here. If these options don't work either I will get new modified rear lights from VLAND. Thanks and good luck

[5150d]

I purchased a new right tail light assembly from BMW Parts Warehouse which is San Francisco BMW dealer.

Part Number: Part Name Price Quantity Total
63-21-9-491-594 Tail Lamp $238.93 1 $238.93

Subtotal: $238.93
Estimated Shipping to 91362 via Standard Shipping: $19.62
Tax: $17.33
Discount: -$1.96
Total: $273.92

2020 BMW M2 Competition

NEED HELP WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO REPLACE?
Please advise?
Thanks!

[5150d]

UPDATE - SOLUTION:
Replaced the rear tail light assembly.
Took me (no experience) 10 minutes.
Tools needed: 10mm socket.
1) Purchase rear tail light assembly from San Francisco BMW - Price $238.93 plus $17.66 shipping. Received in one week and it's genuine OEM BMW part.
2) Remove rear tail light assembly - Open trunk, from outside open 2 little doors on tail light assembly. Use 10mm socket and remove nuts. Use hand at top and pull while using hand on side to slide out old assembly.
3) On M2C just pull out the one wire connector while pushing on lock piece on side of connector.
4) Make sure that the WHITE plug piece in the middle of the wire is reinserted into the bottom of the assembly to hold wires in.
5) Put new assembly in same way came out noting that there is a male piece on end that has to go in first.
6) Make sure the top rain edge is INSIDE the metal part of the trunk when sliding in.
7)This all took me less than 10 minutes.

[Rocky58]

If you set the LED to active in Bimmercode, does it turn off the warm check? Has anyone confirmed this by looking at the settings in expert mode afterwards?
Does just changing this to SL_2_R_IS_LED = aktiv and not inactivating the warm check work?

[Rocky58]

I asked Bimmercode and their reply was that setting the Bimmercode to LED active does inactivate the warm check. But their answer to what the LCI models should be set at from the factory did not really answer the question as to what the warm check should be set at by BMW from the factory. They just said, "You should only need to code this option (LED active, not unassigned in the non-expert Bimmercode setting) if your lights were replaced with LEDs. If your car is equipped with LEDs by factory, it already has the right and valid configuration by factory".

What would really answer my question is if someone who has not changed the coding checks in Expert mode whether the warm check is active as a default from BMW. I may be missing something but if so, is it is set that way for a reason, or just an oversight. It seems hard to believe that BMW would not correct that.

[gandapanda]

Originally Posted by 5150d

UPDATE - SOLUTION:
Replaced the rear tail light assembly.
Took me (no experience) 10 minutes.
Tools needed: 10mm socket.
1) Purchase rear tail light assembly from San Francisco BMW - Price $238.93 plus $17.66 shipping. Received in one week and it's genuine OEM BMW part.
2) Remove rear tail light assembly - Open trunk, from outside open 2 little doors on tail light assembly. Use 10mm socket and remove nuts. Use hand at top and pull while using hand on side to slide out old assembly.
3) On M2C just pull out the one wire connector while pushing on lock piece on side of connector.
4) Make sure that the WHITE plug piece in the middle of the wire is reinserted into the bottom of the assembly to hold wires in.
5) Put new assembly in same way came out noting that there is a male piece on end that has to go in first.
6) Make sure the top rain edge is INSIDE the metal part of the trunk when sliding in.
7)This all took me less than 10 minutes.

Sounds like step 6 may be the key.

I have confirmed that on my ‘18 which spends most of its life in the garage, I get the RR malfunction during the first drive either 1) after rain, or 2) after washing the car.

Maybe this is a design flaw allowing water to get where it shouldn’t.

[bmw_fascinated]

Hi everyone,
recently I had the same problem with failing/flickering turn lights on my F22. Since I did not see any correlations to bad weather or bad connections on the outside of the lights, I went for a brutal approach and actually cut open the whole housing.
I know I could have also heat the assembly and try to remove the cover glass. However, it seemed quite fragile to me and all edges are visible, allowing no room to hide cracked edges. Headlight cover glasses go on ali express for 30$ but tail lights are more like 80$ per piece. So I made my decision to go for the rear side.

The first one I cut open way too much, since I had no idea how the inside might look like.

As you see the relevant area is concentrated at about 1:3 from the left. The focus lies on that two PCB connectors. The more left on is the main connector, it comes from the socket with the outside connections.

The turn signal spans over both main PCBs, however the LED drive must be located on the top PCB. The double connector feeds 12V from the bottom PCB to the top PCB. The other cables transport something around 3V back to the lower PCB (maybe from a constant current source or some voltage to control transistors/mosfets).
If the connector is removed both parts of the turn signal are off. Luckily I had the flickering error even after gently removing one tail light from the car and still after cutting it open. With the turn lights were on (dim, flickering) I was pulling a bit on that connector and suddenly they became bright and flicker free again. Therefore - at least in my case - I am pretty sure that this is the cause of the issue. As a fix, I made a soldered connection and also added some solder on the main connector pads to make it sit more tight. For the other side I repeated this procedure, however I was able to reduce the cut out area a lot. I recommend using a hot cutting blade since you might touch the PCB (on the left edge in the picture). The blade did not harm it as long as you frequently check and work with caution. With a dremel tool the cut might be more clean but it also might cut the PCB easily.

Sealing them off again was quite some fun with ABS welding, but so far my turn lights work well again.

[davidy4ng]

Great job bmw_fascinated ! Any issue since then? I think you provided the best answer on that topic.

But that's a lot of work for a fix... I guess I'll just put back my pre-LCI tail light and will take time to fix mine too since I'm not sure buying new ones will fix it for good.

[bmw_fascinated]

Thanks. So far it seems to have fixed the issue I had.

Regarding the work it is not that bad once you know where to cut. The smaller cut-out on the passenger side tail light was sufficient to reach all the connectors and not that difficult to seal again. The larger opening took me forever to melt together again. But still it seems to be sealed well - keep fingers crossed it stays this way