[David.m]

Originally Posted by bdogk

Perhaps some of you can answer my questions here.

I was told that changing camber setting on the plates affect toe. So do I need to get an alignment done when I change camber on the camber plates? I find this not very feasible while at the track when I want to dial in more camber, then revert back to a street setting for the drive home.

Also, running more camber, say 3 degs over 2 degs, would I lower the front tire pressure a few psi's for better grip?

Yes increasing camber decreases toe-in, so when I change my zero toe @ -2 deg camber street setting to the track -3 deg camber it goes to toe-out, adjusting the tie-rods clockwise 3 & a bit flats (I have painted markings on the tie-rods) gets toe back to zero.

I do the camber/toe-in adjustment at home when I swap pads. To get both settings marked up my alignment shop first did the -3 setup and let me mark the camber/tie-rods, they then did the -2 setup which I marked up at home.

[bdogk]

Originally Posted by David.m

Yes increasing camber decreases toe-in, so when I change my zero toe @ -2 deg camber street setting to the track -3 deg camber it goes to toe-out, adjusting the tie-rods clockwise 3 & a bit flats (I have painted markings on the tie-rods) gets toe back to zero.

I do the camber/toe-in adjustment at home when I swap pads. To get both settings marked up my alignment shop first did the -3 setup and let me mark the camber/tie-rods, they then did the -2 setup which I marked up at home.

Thanks for your reply. I thought so. That's going to pose a problem for me as the nearest "decent" tracks I attend is 300-500km away.

So what's the ramification of me driving that far on-3 deg camber?

[E90convert]

Originally Posted by bdogk

Thanks for your reply. I thought so. That's going to pose a problem for me as the nearest "decent" tracks I attend is 300-500km away.

So what's the ramification of me driving that far on-3 deg camber?

Excess tire wear on the inside shoulder. Increased tramlining. Reduced wet grip.

[David.m]

Originally Posted by bdogk

Thanks for your reply. I thought so. That's going to pose a problem for me as the nearest "decent" tracks I attend is 300-500km away.

So what's the ramification of me driving that far on-3 deg camber?

Assuming it's a normal commute drive and you don't run toe-out I would think the extra wear to inner tread will be negligible, certainly nothing to worry about when you compare the on track benefits the extra camber will give.

I'm fortunate that I only have a 27km drive to the track so set up at home & drive there on my A052 track tyres. Next month though I have a 200km drive to track for a club supersprint round so I'll commute all set up for track but swap tyres at the track.

[bdogk]

Anyone know what is stock camber?

[bdogk]

Just had the Vorshlag camber plates installed on the CS.

Now I'm noticing knocking sound on each side at low speed over undulated pavements. Is this normal?

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by bdogk

Just had the Vorshlag camber plates installed on the CS.

Now I'm noticing knocking sound on each side at low speed over undulated pavements. Is this normal?

No, not normal to get noise with Vorshlag. I'd check to see if the damper shaft nut was tightened enough (Vorshlag says to use an impact to do it).

[bdogk]

The initial install was not performed by me. So I have no way of checking whether everything was installed correctly.

FaRKle!, your video instructions was invaluable. Wish I had done it myself now. At least I would have no one to blame but myself.

Well, I re-tightened everything and it eliminated about 50% of the knocking sound.

[medphysdave]

Any further update on the knocking sound?

[bdogk]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

Any further update on the knocking sound?

Well, if you really want to know, I had to order another whole new set of Vorshlag camber plates. Then when I was getting the third shop (the best shop) to swap out the damaged plates, they discovered that one of the strut thread was partially striped - likely from the initial shop install. So I would have to replace the strut in pairs, at $1500 each. That's for OEM struts, and they're back-ordered from Germany

As a result, I decided to replace both fr/re shocks with Bilstein B6 EDC dampers which are cheaper and apparently also better than OEM's. I now have 3 dampers in my possession, but the RF strut is on back-order.

Once I get the damaged plates swapped out, I will send them back to Vorshlag to have them rebuilt and then I will sell them as used/reconditioned.

I will report back once everything's in place.

BTW, Vorshlag's tech support has been amazing.

[medphysdave]

Man, hate that you've had to go though this many hoops and costs. Hopefully the end is near.

[aroundelway]

So what's the ramification of me driving that far on-3 deg camber?

bhor holo dor kholo full poem

[bdogk]

Originally Posted by aroundelway

bhor holo dor kholo full poem

Is this from front or rear?

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by bdogk

Is this from front or rear?

How far did you drive on those with -3 degrees? I'm curious because I'd be driving my car to tracks. I might need to rethink my wheel choice if it requires me to run -3 or more. Or figure out a reliable way to adjust the camber plates once at track. I don't mind bringing a different set of wheels with me.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by bdogk

Well, if you really want to know, I had to order another whole new set of Vorshlag camber plates. Then when I was getting the third shop (the best shop) to swap out the damaged plates, they discovered that one of the strut thread was partially striped - likely from the initial shop install. So I would have to replace the strut in pairs, at $1500 each. That's for OEM struts, and they're back-ordered from Germany

As a result, I decided to replace both fr/re shocks with Bilstein B6 EDC dampers which are cheaper and apparently also better than OEM's. I now have 3 dampers in my possession, but the RF strut is on back-order.

Once I get the damaged plates swapped out, I will send them back to Vorshlag to have them rebuilt and then I will sell them as used/reconditioned.

I will report back once everything's in place.

BTW, Vorshlag's tech support has been amazing.

Oh man, stripped threads? I wonder how they did that. Did they cross thread the nut on it? Are the threads totally destroyed or can they be chased/reformed with one of those thread kits?

[bdogk]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Oh man, stripped threads? I wonder how they did that. Did they cross thread the nut on it? Are the threads totally destroyed or can they be chased/reformed with one of those thread kits?

Not sure how they did it. The first shop showed it to me when they removed the strut and said the factory likely did it during assembly. So how am I to know who caused it. Nonetheless, the Bilstein B6's going on.

BTW, Bilstein didn't have any parts listing on the B6 for the CS, but many shops list the M3/M4 CS as exact fitment. I hope they're correct.

[Krelle]

Originally Posted by bdogk

Not sure how they did it. The first shop showed it to me when they removed the strut and said the factory likely did it during assembly. So how am I to know who caused it. Nonetheless, the Bilstein B6's going on.

BTW, Bilstein didn't have any parts listing on the B6 for the CS, but many shops list the M3/M4 CS as exact fitment. I hope they're correct.

I'm sure this hasn't happened at the factory. The marks are not old and from an impact wrench. The correct tool for this is a thin wall pass through 18 mm socket with 12 point and a 10mm.
Typical shop work to speed up the process. Real Engineers only uses special tools and torque wrench for any assembly job.

[Krelle]

Info for CS owners.

Camber plates Street BMW M2Competition, M2CS, M3, M4. The Street version adjust up to -3,2 dg.
Product will be available on June 14, 2023
SKU 90481-M4
(NEW! Street version with polyurethane bushings. Reduces noise from suspension and tires compared to uniball version. Fits all suspensions).
////////////////
Camber plates BMW M2Competition, M2CS, M3 F80, M4 F82 F83 adjustable up to -4 dg.
Product will be available on June 14, 2023
SKU 90467-M4

////////////////
Camber plates M2C M2CS M3 M4 Racing
Product will be available on June 14, 2023
SKU 90467-TTX

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by Krelle

Info for CS owners.

Camber plates Street BMW M2Competition, M2CS, M3, M4. The Street version adjust up to -3,2 dg.
Product will be available on June 14, 2023
SKU 90481-M4
(NEW! Street version with polyurethane bushings. Reduces noise from suspension and tires compared to uniball version. Fits all suspensions).
////////////////
Camber plates BMW M2Competition, M2CS, M3 F80, M4 F82 F83 adjustable up to -4 dg.
Product will be available on June 14, 2023
SKU 90467-M4

////////////////
Camber plates M2C M2CS M3 M4 Racing
Product will be available on June 14, 2023
SKU 90467-TTX

But does the new version available in June address the issue that requires the strut brace to be removed to reach full camber. Im guessing the -3.2 deg is total and not on top of the factory camber? I like the low noise, but think I'd want the option to go above -3.2. We'll see what wheels I go with.

[DadVibes]

Originally Posted by bdogk

Not sure how they did it. The first shop showed it to me when they removed the strut and said the factory likely did it during assembly. So how am I to know who caused it. Nonetheless, the Bilstein B6's going on.

BTW, Bilstein didn't have any parts listing on the B6 for the CS, but many shops list the M3/M4 CS as exact fitment. I hope they're correct.

I feel you. I've had a too many bad experiences with even reputable shops installing suspension components improperly and/or damaging parts, in the process. Most recently stripping the top hex key on one of my brand new Ohlins rear dampers.

That was the final straw for me. Now I will only take on suspension jobs myself. Making sure everything is replaced/torqued 100% to recommended spec.

[Krelle]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

But does the new version available in June address the issue that requires the strut brace to be removed to reach full camber. Im guessing the -3.2 deg is total and not on top of the factory camber? I like the low noise, but think I'd want the option to go above -3.2. We'll see what wheels I go with.

I don't know yet. I'll let you know once I gt time to complete the installation.
It's only when tracking I need about -3 and I don't mind the job.
-3,2 dg (Street), is the max. obtainable unless you get the other available option.

[medphysdave]

As a point of info for the Vorschlag plates. I received a reply to my inquiry on using an Impact. Impact setting of 100 ft lbs should be fine. I was concerned because my "pulsed mode" on DeWalt 20v max XR will do the full 600ftlbs in pulsed mode. However, the first stop on the pulse seems to be close to 100 ft lbs as it doesn't reach the wheel lug torque on the first let up. If you keep pushing though it will quickly ramp up the torque. Use short pulses to keep the shaft from spinning to much.

My guess is that this is where potential noise comes from. If you don't tighten quickly enough your just spinning the shaft and may not be tightening enough.. They also mentioned using blue loctight on an install article.