04-26-2017, 07:43 AM | #1 |
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VIDEO GUIDE - Installing and Hardwiring a Dashcam - NO BATTERY WARNINGS OR CUTOFF
Installing a dashcam can seem rather daunting, but it's actually a relatively straight forward DIY project if you take your time.
Modern cars, especially European cars have features which monitor battery load when the car is off and can either cut power, or throw error messages when a dashcam is hard wired in parking mode, in this video I'll show you how to work around this. You'll also learn how to conceal all the wiring neatly so nothing is visible inside the cabin. The car in the video is a BMW M240i, but the process is the same for all current BMWs. |
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04-26-2017, 02:44 PM | #2 |
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Thanks for the post, very informative.
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04-26-2017, 11:24 PM | #4 |
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Thanks for the video, shame it wasn't 12 months ago before i paid to get mine installed lol.
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04-27-2017, 01:47 AM | #6 |
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Great video! Thank you very much.
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04-27-2017, 06:03 PM | #8 | |
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DAAAMMMMNN. Thought you had reposted someone else's video, which was useful enough. And then I realized that was YOU. Very nice, consider me impressed. I did a front-facing only dashcam using the the wires in the mirror console but maybe I'll spring for a front and rear-facing setup at some point. And when I do, this is where I'll come. Nice work.
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04-27-2017, 07:34 PM | #9 | |
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04-28-2017, 10:07 PM | #10 |
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Thanks for the video. This will definitely be very helpful when I install my 2CH dashcam setup when I bring my M2 home in a little over a week. I just have to worry about the addition of a Cellink B battery as well but that won't be hard.
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04-29-2017, 03:58 AM | #11 | |
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I had one in my old car and ended up taking it out becasue it was more trouble than it was worth. Good luck with the install. |
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05-17-2017, 10:30 AM | #12 | |
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My front & rear dashcam goes: CAM -> Power Magic Pro (battery voltage monitor) > INLINE FUSES WOULD BE PUT HERE > Trunk battery/fuse box Is it necessary for the inline fuses at the end? Last edited by hshot_rooke; 05-17-2017 at 10:44 AM.. |
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10-05-2017, 11:25 PM | #13 |
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Nice video, clean install.
You used individual pieces of heat shrink for each wire when you extended the power cable and then you use electrical tape to wrap the whole thing. I can’t think of a reason for not using another, slightly larger, piece of heat shrink instead of electrical tape other that you just didn’t have any to hand? I would like my set up to run for about a week or so in parking mode. What problems did you have with the auxiliary battery in your old car?
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12-26-2017, 07:54 PM | #15 |
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Great video. I picked up the F770 at the Boxing Day sale, managed to get 30% off the kit.
Not going to lie, my fingers are sore from tucking the cables down the seats/trim. Damn soft office hands.... Question, how did you attach the yellow wire to the battery? |
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12-30-2017, 03:44 AM | #16 |
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One question - your fuse tap, did you test with the multimeter which side of the fuse box is the output and what is the input? IOW, is the right side (from camera perspective) the portion directly attached to battery, and the left is post-fuse and going out to the car equipment?
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12-31-2017, 06:28 PM | #17 | |
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I'm personally working through an issue now where my parking mode switches off after approximately 6 hours. I'm trying to diagnose if it's battery voltage related, or some serious inaccuracy in the Power Magic Pro, which I had set to 12 hours. I left the trunk open last night so that I could check if the permanent 12v was being switched off by the car somehow, but that wasn't the case because there was still 12.3v at the fuse when I checked first thing this morning. It was 12.3v last night as well when I checked before leaving the car, so the voltage drop, unless it somehow recovered, certainly shouldn't be the issue. I've set it to indefinite now and am waiting to see how long it stays on for.
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01-01-2018, 04:31 AM | #18 |
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Used this guide to install my Thinkware F800 Pro. Hands down most helpful video. Followed every step for a perfect install.
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01-02-2018, 11:39 PM | #19 | ||
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With a PMP, it shouldn't really matter since the fusetap is basically only used as a voltage sense and there shouldn't be any real load there... but I prefer to "do it right." Quote:
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01-03-2018, 12:49 AM | #20 | |||
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One additional thing I noticed in my testing yesterday, is that if the PMP switches off because of low voltage, it seems to require BOTH a voltage on the switched wire, AND a voltage sufficiently higher than where it shut off previously. In other words, if you switch the ignition on the next morning after the PMP has switched off the car, it's not enough to turn it back on again; you need to start the car to get the voltage up a bit higher than just the 12.35v that my car was at rest, or it won't turn the camera back on.
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01-03-2018, 07:54 AM | #21 |
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