05-12-2016, 08:14 PM | #1 |
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What oil is BMW putting in M2?
Those of you that have gotten the break-in service, what oil are they using?
Is it BMW 0W-40 like F80 m3/m4? |
05-13-2016, 02:27 PM | #2 |
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I'm sure the tech told me 0W-30 in mine, but looking at the invoice it doesn't specify.
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06-29-2016, 09:33 PM | #6 |
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Interesting. Well fwiw I changed the oil myself after a track event and put in 0w40 and am running that now. Will do the same after my next track event. I'm a strong believer in cheap insurance with changing the oil with llo1 after every track event.
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06-30-2016, 11:41 AM | #7 | |
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06-30-2016, 04:38 PM | #8 |
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I'm really concerned about the 0w most of the manufactures are going with these days and the motives for spec'ing it. I've got a buddy that has 2 late model cars by Subaru and Honda which have developed ring issues and excessive oil consumption at they approached 100,000 miles. He's got a 2014 Outback that uses 1 Qt every other tank. It sounds like lot of manufactures are dealing with these days if you google oil consumption and various terms.
When I researched the issue, a lot of people suspected the thinner oil could be a cause as some of the engines used 5w or 10w in other countries or in the past. Really made me wonder if the new EPA Regulations are causing premature engine failures. Or if the manufactures are sacrificing long term reliability for increased MPG ratings. I don't know enough to form a good opinion on this, but it's something that should be considered for anyone owning one of these long term off warranty. Is 0w really in our best interest? |
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06-30-2016, 07:12 PM | #9 | |
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07-05-2016, 11:22 AM | #10 | |
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I have a friend that bought a brand new 2014 Subaru Forester. I'm the only one changing his oil and I have noticed the car burning excessive amounts of oil. His car only has 40k miles. At 4000-4500 the low oil light comes on every time now. Once the light comes on it takes 1 entire quart to fill it back up. He changes his oil every 3500 now. Last oil change I put in little bit thicker 5w30 oil to see if it burns less oil. I have a 2012 Honda CRV (purchased new). 50k miles on it so far, and it does not burn any oil. I'm the only one changing the oil as well so I check the oil level before draining, always at the full mark. This car requires 0w-20 oil like the Subaru does. Yes 0w is extremely thin but I have faith that manufactures can develop a good engine that uses this oil.
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07-05-2016, 03:03 PM | #11 | |
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It just seems like a bad concept if they are trying to make engines that can use thinner oil in order to meet EPA requirements and this is the end result. |
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07-13-2016, 11:51 AM | #12 | |
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The number before the W in an oil is the cold weight of the oil. The second number is the weight at full temp. (Cold Weight)W(Hot Weight) Both the 0W40 and 5W40 are 40 weight oils and will have the same thickness and film strength at full operating temp. Where the 0W is SUPERIOR to the 5W is at cold start up. The 0W is thinner only at start up so the motor turns over easier and the engine has proper lubrication the moment it cranks. It is not a thinner oil overall and/or at operating temp, only at start up where you want the oil to be thin. Also, any 0W oil will always be a full synthetic. There is no such thing as a 0W conventional. |
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07-13-2016, 05:16 PM | #13 |
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I have an 06 WRX with 120k. However the previous owner did oil changes every 3500 miles. The Boxer layout is susceptible to oil starvation which is why Porsche uses 7 qts an oil change. Since Subaru owners will not pay as much for an oil change, you have to change oil more frequently than a conventional car.
Btw the oil I use is Belgian Castrol 0W30. It made the engine much smoother and I plan to use it in the M2. |
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07-13-2016, 05:54 PM | #14 | |
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First let me start with this. You are 1,000,000% correct with with your "technical" review of the facts and 99% here know that the lower viscosity number is cold weight, etc. No one is disputing that or is ignorant unlike the Birthers that believe bashing a car with no miles is actually better for it. So we have that out of the way. I am agreeing with you and the only reason I am putting such a long reply despite being in agreement with you on the technical accuracy you brought up is because I am the original poster. So again, I do not disagree with you but I also understand why many are skeptical and nervous about 0W oils. First Reason History. Dr told women Thalidomide was good for pregnant women. Later it caused birth defects. Dr.s said Eggs and Butter bad and margarine good. Peanut Butter and Avocados were high in fat and cholesterol. Now, natural peanut butter is good as are eggs and real butter. Hang in there, I'll get to cars... BMW recommended periodic transmission, diff and fluid changes in their cars. Then around 2003, the exact same car with no mechanical difference became lifetime fill fluids. As soon as BMW started to pay for service, the coolant flushes, brake fluid intervals doubled. Those that are cynical believe it was because now that BMW was paying for the service, they simply decreed longer intervals. So you can begin to see a pattern here I hope. My 2011 BMW 1M motor is no different internally than most other N54 motors yet for my M version, they gave me a 1200 mile old school break-in that was not afforded to non M motors that were identical! So manufacturers do things for THEIR interests not yours and many understand that which is why they are skeptical! I have never left oil in my car for two years and 15K miles nor have I left the same transmission oil and diff oil for the 15 years. Guess what, BMW has now backtracked from the lifetime fill because they experimented with a generation of cars and realized that transmissions were failing at 90K miles. So why are manufacturers going with 0W oils. If you believe in the tooth fairy, you assume that it is because of less engine wear during cold starts. I'm sure that is part of it, the non tooth-fairy crowd believe it has to do with meeting tough fuel consumption standards. With a thin oil there is less parasitic drag especially when cold and you can start driving immediately. Also, you can designate one oil that will work worldwide! That is a very cool thing. In the past, you were given oil options based on average temperatures. So the question then becomes, do you want to put the best possible oil for your temperature range or want a jack-of-all-trades oil designed to be OK in the Siberian winter? If there is in fact no trade-off with the zero weight, then that would be fine. But the non tooth-fairy believers think that there are always tradeoffs! It's too good to be true and we wonder if BMW is again experimenting on our dime with our cars. There are engineers that believe that the thinner oil, even if it is only during the warm up stage is passing through valve guides, rings, etc causing consumption and worse yet blow-by that can create carbon build up on valves, especially in direct injected motors. Now if you live in a part of the country where it gets really cold in the winter, then a little extra consumption would be worth it so you don't have congealed oil even though 5W is already pretty good at preventing that. But what about people like me that live in hot climates and get sunburned in the winter and store our cars in garages? The tradeoff benefit of a 0W vs a 5W might not be worth it if there is a chance of extra consumption and blow-by. I have attached an image of a Consumer Reports article where they discuss this and I will include the link also. So to summarize. 0W is being used to reduce fuel consumption and to have one oil that works worlwide. Some believe that there are trade-offs. If you drive a lot and lived in cold climate then the benefits of 0W probably make sense. The oil flows quickly and I save on gas. If you live in a hot climate and drive it very little then you might not want to make your dream car part of the 0W experiment because in a hot climate, there is less benefit to 0W. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/n...-oil/index.htm |
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07-13-2016, 06:01 PM | #15 | |
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Also, Belgians count better than the French! Soixant-dix, Quatre-vingt my butt! Give my a septant, huitante any day! PS! Will belgium get cloth seats in M2? Still upset 1M and M2 had no cloth option in North America. |
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07-14-2016, 03:22 AM | #16 |
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07-16-2016, 01:21 AM | #17 |
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Oil debates are always entertaining. I have simply followed the oil life monitor on my 06 330i and it runs great and consumes no oil at 212,000 miles. The caveat is I drive 25,000 plus miles a year so oil gets changed every 6 months and I drive almost 100% highway miles. I do change my transmission fluid and filter every 70,000 miles or so because I can't buy the idea of a lifetime fluid. For what it's worth I believe that with the higher oil capacity and the use of a high quality synthetic we are fine going with the manufacturers recommendations, that is unless you have a reason not too like track days, your more comfortable doing shorter intervals etc. No one but you will pay for the cost of the oil change or consequences from not changing it so I don't really understand the debates and the emotions that come with them.
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07-16-2016, 02:00 AM | #18 | |
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07-16-2016, 06:11 AM | #19 |
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On my previous turbocharged engines i put 0W in during winter ( 0-10°C) and up to 15W for a old turbo engine during summer ( up to 50°C) and that worked for me, i had a peugeot 206 tubo diesel engine (hdi) used from new to 315K kms on the counter with a clean healthy engine with zero turbo issue and zero oil consumption.
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07-30-2016, 01:58 PM | #20 |
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Pennzoil Recommendation
I am sold on the Pennzoil from nat-gas as a cleaner oil. Very interesting that on the Pennzoil Web site they recommend Euro 5W-40 which does have a pour point of -42. Where BMW does say that a 5-40 CAN BE USED -- THE MOST COMMON oil used at a dealership for the N55 is 0W-30.
. . I am going with Pennzoil EURO 5W-40 LL-01 oil very 5k OCI. Having been a prior owner of the N54 engine -- and reading the latest from Mike Miller who recommends 5k OCI for the N54/N55. . I would think the M2 with an N55 variant would be best served with the EURO 5W-40 in warranty and possibly even Redline 5W-30 post warranty due to RL is a heavy 30wt almost near 40wt but as a full ester which handles the heat & really superior oil for the turbo. |
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07-30-2016, 04:45 PM | #21 | |
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08-23-2016, 06:22 AM | #22 |
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So my "friend" decided to go with 300v Trophy 0w40, the same Oil that is highly recommend for GTR, and any high performance sport car
He got X5 for which he get rid of bmw warranty from the first day as this oil is not LL approved and he wanted to keep the car for very time period, so he started to fill it from his first service, and after 150k miles not a single problem he had with it engine or turbo. It costs twice more than any regular oil, and it's recommended to be changed around 5-6k miles. I'm looking forward to see the difference and let you know. |
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