03-19-2019, 05:32 PM | #1 |
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Monster DIY: KW V3, torque specs, re-indexing, spacers, alignment, coilovers install
I recently installed some KW V3 coilovers and found the lack of good DIYs and instructions frustrating, so I’ve done my best to create the most comprehensive guide which includes the following and should apply to the M2, M3, and M4 (F80, F82, F87):
***Mods, can we get a section specifically for DIYs instead of having to always search through old posts?*** Section 1: Tools
Section 2: Jacking the car up without a lift
Section 3a: Removing front suspension
Section 3b: Removing rear suspension
Section 4a: KW Coilover Front Install
Section 4b: KW Coilover Rear Install
Section 5: Reindexing and replacing 1 time use torque to yield bolts This is important! Read below and if you’re having a shop do your install make sure they do this! Why does the suspension need reindexed?
Rear 1 = 100 Nm + 90 degrees - 07119905610 + 33326760668 3 = 100 Nm - 33326760668 + 07119906489 2 = 165 Nm - 31106768886 + 31106786144 Front 1 = 100 Nm + 90* - 31106885777 + 31106767496 2 = 100 Nm + 90* - 33326760668 + 31106797237 List of bolts and nuts needed:
Section 6: Spacers
Section 7: Alignment I prefer the following modifications but YMMV based on application, set-up, etc Rear:
Front
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03-19-2019, 07:28 PM | #4 |
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Drives: 2019 M2 Competition
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thanks for this; going to install suspension in the next couple of months
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03-19-2019, 08:30 PM | #5 | |
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Open to feedback on anything I've missed as well!
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03-20-2019, 02:36 PM | #6 |
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Comprehensive.
There are only 2 things I might suggest changing: 1. Unbolt the front shocks from the strut tops and then let the suspension droop to release the spring. It make removal from the wheel arches less of a clearance issue. The strut top can then be removed separately and fitted to the KW. Obvs, if you buy new strut tops to go with the KWs, this isn't necessary. 2. Tap the upper spring mount at the rear with a soft mallet and it will drop off without risking damage to the underseal. HTH |
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03-20-2019, 03:55 PM | #7 |
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03-22-2019, 01:59 AM | #8 |
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Mosely wow so much detail. Shame only the gen x's will read it and the gen y's will want a video
Thanks for taking the time. I will wait patiently to see the write up when you do a turbo swap or remove the engine
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03-22-2019, 11:10 AM | #9 | |
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I'll definitely do some detailed write-ups on whatever I do!
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03-23-2019, 02:01 AM | #11 | |
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This way your pants stay on and you have happy neighbours..
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Previous Rides: 13' 135i, 08' 130i, 03' HKS Turbo'd 350z, Modded GC8 WRX, NA MX5
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03-23-2019, 10:28 AM | #12 | |
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03-23-2019, 01:42 PM | #14 |
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Can we convert this to foot pounds?
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03-23-2019, 03:11 PM | #16 |
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I used Nm because this is how BMW reports them. Can easily convert with google if you'd like.
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03-23-2019, 03:24 PM | #17 |
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Also, wanted to add that I did the rear height adjustment today. As I mentioned above, KW specifies a 20mm adjustment range (Point A 15-35mm) for a drop of 0.8-1.8". As I only wanted 0.8-1" drop, I initially went with 35mm between the rear perch and the top mount. This resulted in ZERO change in the rear ride height.
To adjust rear perches: 1. loosen the rear wheel, jack the car up (easiest way for this is side rear jack point, toss a jack stand under the rear subframe where the camber arm meets it). 2. The plastic of the fender liner will be in your way, there is a 10mm nut right next to the perch adjustment (towards the back of the car) that you can remove and hold the plastic out of the way 3. Spray your lube of choice on the threads where they meet the perch AND where the perch rotates on the upper spring (you'll find an abundance of people saying they can't adjust the rears because the who system rotates, and that thread of the guy who cut notches into his upper mounts recently, but I had zero issues with this when properly lubed) 4. Turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE to lower the car, CLOCKWISE to raise the ride height. 5. As for final settings, I ended up around 21-23mm to be fairly flush with the fender and equal to the front drop. Pictures coming soon.
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03-23-2019, 03:34 PM | #18 | |
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03-23-2019, 04:32 PM | #19 |
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KW appear to suggest - on page 6 of the V3 installation instructions - that the rear spring perches should be removed in order to adjust them?
https://www.kwsuspensions.com/extras...Q/352200BH.pdf But yes. Greasing the threads on KW height adjustable suspension is unlikely to be a Good Thing. There 'may' be an argument for greasing the threads on non-stainless steel height adjustable suspension, but that means you need to clean it all off before adjusting the spring preload... |
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03-23-2019, 04:41 PM | #20 | |
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03-23-2019, 04:51 PM | #21 |
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Just wait until you try it with the MPS versions - there are no helper springs to relieve the pressure on the rear perches.
The fronts can be adjusted by hand on the M2, so it is a bit of a contrast... |
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03-23-2019, 08:38 PM | #22 |
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Regarding the lube thing, I meant just for adjusting the perches. A little degreaser afterwards to clean things up, agreed you don't want to attract dirt but it also doesn't matter once you're happy with height. Next time I take them off will be if they fail or when I sell the car/upgrade coils and KW even include the instructions on cleaning above the perch, then slide up and clean below, before making large adjustments. Thinking about it actually, I'd rather a little dirt stick to a non-moving part than rust develop.
Not sure why KW recommend removing to adjust, its quite easy once you get it moving to do it on the car and the only thing turning is the adjustment collar. Edit: Here is the final stance, just a quick cell shot
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Last edited by Mosely; 03-23-2019 at 09:02 PM.. Reason: added pic |
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